The need for more power results.427 dart shp block,ls3heads llsr cam
02-19-2019, 08:45 PM
#21
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Originally Posted by AINT SKEERED
...now I just need time to work on it.
02-20-2019, 07:39 AM
#23
Well the vacuum pump may or may not happen. I want it to but my 23 year old daughter had a car accident 3weeks ago and totalled her car. I want her to get one on her own but that will just prolong my wife driving her all over. I'll set the vacuum pump money aside to see how this works out.
she can buy the car but I'll probably have to help with getting it insured.
she can buy the car but I'll probably have to help with getting it insured.
02-21-2019, 07:33 AM
#25
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Well the vacuum pump may or may not happen. I want it to but my 23 year old daughter had a car accident 3weeks ago and totalled her car. I want her to get one on her own but that will just prolong my wife driving her all over. I'll set the vacuum pump money aside to see how this works out.
she can buy the car but I'll probably have to help with getting it insured.
she can buy the car but I'll probably have to help with getting it insured.
02-22-2019, 07:43 AM
#26
based on rpm at 127mph on data log vs rpm it was 9% slip. So closer to 590 rwhp locked
Im 99%sure the pump is happening. But we also figured out yesterday my crank is bent from the heat. I sent it to a shop to see if he can bend it back or he has to grind it .010
this is not expensive to do but a set back and now I'll have a crank that's been turned
Im 99%sure the pump is happening. But we also figured out yesterday my crank is bent from the heat. I sent it to a shop to see if he can bend it back or he has to grind it .010
this is not expensive to do but a set back and now I'll have a crank that's been turned
02-26-2019, 08:11 AM
#30
1-2 shift fell from 7574 to 5775
2-3 fell from 7400 to 5750.
I am waiting for the engine dyno this time to send it back but my graph from chassis dyno while motor was hurt shows a big dip between 5200-6200 so it needs to stay between 6400-7800 on shifts . Wont use that to get it adjusted, waiting for engine dyno
2-3 fell from 7400 to 5750.
I am waiting for the engine dyno this time to send it back but my graph from chassis dyno while motor was hurt shows a big dip between 5200-6200 so it needs to stay between 6400-7800 on shifts . Wont use that to get it adjusted, waiting for engine dyno
02-26-2019, 12:48 PM
#31
Interesting... my 4000 only fell to 5700 shifting at 6900 before. And it was too tight for that. That's why I think if I run it out to 7500 it might stay above 6000 with the extra torque... I hate to get it wrong. Pulling the trans and swapping converters is the worst thing on these cars, lol.
But good luck! You are close!
But good luck! You are close!
02-26-2019, 05:43 PM
#32
Interesting... my 4000 only fell to 5700 shifting at 6900 before. And it was too tight for that. That's why I think if I run it out to 7500 it might stay above 6000 with the extra torque... I hate to get it wrong. Pulling the trans and swapping converters is the worst thing on these cars, lol.
But good luck! You are close!
But good luck! You are close!
02-28-2019, 08:40 PM
#34
I don't have it but when I get it back running soon it will get engine dyno and then chassis dyno. I'll get sae then.
geoff at eps always uses std. So as far as I'm concerned its 100hp more than my 6.0 was that ran 10.9's at 3850 raceweight
geoff at eps always uses std. So as far as I'm concerned its 100hp more than my 6.0 was that ran 10.9's at 3850 raceweight
03-24-2019, 10:10 AM
#35
Well she is finally back to life and ready to go back in the car. Diamond engines in Hammond Louisiana machined and assembled the short block. He even ported the oil passages .seems dart blocks are better in many ways with the priority main oiling, but then leave a smaller hole to come out of at the bearing.
all clearances are set on main and rod bearings at .0025-.0027. Cmpared to before finding the mains were tight with the #4 burning a bearing at .0005 clearance, #2 and thrust at .0025(good) but ends being at .0015. Hence it lived less than 400miles.
pistons were in the hole .003 but decks were rough cut.not good for mls gaskets so we decked them .006 to pull out of hole .003.
heads were also decked .006 TO KNOCK down 1cc to 63 cc combustion chamber.
was 11.72/1 now 12.06/1 compression.
The cam is an Engine power systems (Geoff skinner) grind low lash solid roller from cam motions. 246/262@.050 .689/.672 112lsa 108 cl. Before the mishap, the cam was in on a 109.5 cl so we advanced it 2degree where it was supposed to be. Roll master chain set had it 109.5 cl straight up.
same heads as before, sps heads (Gavin Simcoe) ported 823 castings with pac1209x springs and stainless farera valves.
We engine dyno this to break it in using a fast system computer. We did set valve lash at .002 cold, ran the motor to put heat in it then checked them. Reset them to .006 hot which was all pretty close. Just easier to tell than when cold using a little thicker gauge.
anyone who thinks a sniper intake(low profile to clear fbody)dont make tq as well should look at this thing, yet it screams to 8000 rpm like it's nothing never falling off.
This combination has already been in my car and being a street car, I can tell you it is very docile and idled beautiful. Drove great. Now it should do even better with the cam advanced 2more degree. I will be posting a video to YouTube and will share that in a post as well.
hard to see the pictures on here but peak hp on pump gas is 657@7700rpm peak tq 575@5200
chp fuel from VP racing made 671@7700 same 32deg timing but added 10% fuel to map since it's an oxygenated fuel.
avg power is great though. From 4500 to 8000 rpm it made 606/522.
very broad power curve, 4800 stall and 4.10 gear it should hall the mail yet drives great. The converter does not seem loose at all until you hit the throttle hard.[/QUOTE]
shared from build thread
03-25-2019, 01:52 PM
#36
l. Before the mishap, the cam was in on a 109.5 cl so we advanced it 2degree where it was supposed to be. Roll master chain set had it 109.5 cl straight up.
anyone who thinks a sniper intake(low profile to clear fbody)dont make tq as well should look at this thing, yet it screams to 8000 rpm like it's nothing never falling off.
You saying you had to set the timing set a few extra degrees advanced to get timing where it should be? Ive seen this with a few aftermarket timing sets. We put an extra two degrees adv in a few parts numbers now over "on paper" what we want now
Usually lose around 100hp with a manual trans vs engine dyno for example that would likely make 570/465 so your definitely giving up some midrange tq vs a long runner intake, everyone we do makes 500 ft lbs+ - not that it matters if your shifting that thing at 8000
03-25-2019, 11:43 PM
#37
You saying you had to set the timing set a few extra degrees advanced to get timing where it should be? Ive seen this with a few aftermarket timing sets. We put an extra two degrees adv in a few parts numbers now over "on paper" what we want now
Usually lose around 100hp with a manual trans vs engine dyno for example that would likely make 570/465 so your definitely giving up some midrange tq vs a long runner intake, everyone we do makes 500 ft lbs+ - not that it matters if your shifting that thing at 8000[/QUOTE]
It made 543rwhp on a dyno jet prior to needing the rebuild. I'd think we up a little now. Maybe 10ish
Usually lose around 100hp with a manual trans vs engine dyno for example that would likely make 570/465 so your definitely giving up some midrange tq vs a long runner intake, everyone we do makes 500 ft lbs+ - not that it matters if your shifting that thing at 8000[/QUOTE]
It made 543rwhp on a dyno jet prior to needing the rebuild. I'd think we up a little now. Maybe 10ish
04-01-2019, 11:30 AM
#38
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How much for the engine dyno? I'd love to get mine done but it will probably cost too much. Since my LS7 block is messed up I'm going w/ the dart iron block as well (earlier version). I am hoping I don't have issues bolting on accessories. I'm going with an F-body oil pan w/ block extenders. Changing my heads to Advanced Induction ported 280 OEM LS7s (from TFS 235s). Going with a race proven B-3 cam and mamo ported msd. I'm keeping the 6 speed for now. Hoping there is a significant increase in performance over my old setup.
04-02-2019, 06:32 AM
#40
How much for the engine dyno? I'd love to get mine done but it will probably cost too much. Since my LS7 block is messed up I'm going w/ the dart iron block as well (earlier version). I am hoping I don't have issues bolting on accessories. I'm going with an F-body oil pan w/ block extenders. Changing my heads to Advanced Induction ported 280 OEM LS7s (from TFS 235s). Going with a race proven B-3 cam and mamo ported msd. I'm keeping the 6 speed for now. Hoping there is a significant increase in performance over my old setup.
Thanks,this thing was bought new and only been in rain maybe 7-8 times,stays garage kept and only 47,800 miles. 4th engine though,3rd transmission and 2nd rear end combination. Lol