99 Black Bird T/A

iTrader: (4)

The numbers seem within reason for the parts listed. On a different DynoJet it might be higher. I don't think the 98mm lid, 85 mm MAF and AES filter in the intake track are doing you any favors. They strike me as suitable for a 346, maybe LS2 or 383 LS1 but less than ideal for your 427.

For better dyno numbers, I think the Fast Toys 104mm Lid, Green Filter Part #2021, speed density tune no MAF would help. I think those parts & SD tune is likely where most of that missing 15 hp is at.

The NW 90 TB and LS7 intake are decent but Mamo's ported intakes are well proven. The new headers & ported MSD should be a nice gain. The bigger 102 TB, ported MSD plus 2 inch Kook's headers could gain quite bit by optimizing the set up.

To finish sorting the car I'd stick with the same shop. It may be less convenient but it sounds like they are a good professional shop.

SoFla01SSLookinstok

Right on. Going to get one of those green filters soon.

Doing so a couple of times it was cool to see the real difference a filter made. With my car, not a 427, a paper filter held back about 18hp And the K&N held back around 3-4hp. From no filter. As others stated you have more power once you get more air in there. Also, as comparing dyno numbers is not the smartest thing, but most of us do it, try not to get too hung up. Also as comparing to another car, with different drivetrain, c6z, probably isn't too good. Understand your concern on temp/power thing. Hope you get it figured.

So how does the car feel? Have you done any pulls on it? Also what is your choice on exhaust header back?

Floorman279

iTrader: (11)

so heres my personal preference, again just my preference with no data to back it up just logic, a paper filter will for the most part block everything from going in the motor, including air......a k and n due to the oil can mess up the maf over time, and i see myself always running one, but i assume it flows so much that dirt will still get through, hence the oil to help catch the oil. so in a filter, i want something in between those 2, something that flows well but not too well as to let in dirt. so ws6 store recommended the AEM and said thats basically what the AEM is. you dont need oil because it still catches most of the dirt but should flow a lot better than a paper. i will do some more research on this green filter for when its time to get more air into this thing.

yes i know about the dyno number thing, but i extremely rarely go to the drag strip so i cant really tell how well it runs without a number, and in comparison to the c6z, there arent enough ls7 f bodies to compare this too so i have to go the route. if i was within 15-20 hp of what those average i wouldnt be whining because you are right, its not a good comparison, but we do know a motor in c6z, swapped into an fbody, isn't goona swing more than a 15 hp gain in either direction. im not really hung up on the numbers.

i haven't driven it since the dyno. im waiting until i get my header back exhaust put on. it vibrates like hell, and pops like hell, and all the obnoxious exhaust notes are overpowering the ones i want to here. i have a sneaky feeling the 18" extensions are not far enough from the o2s and its pulling fresh air back in through the exhaust just a lil, possibly causing the numbers to be a little leaner than what they are, which is richening up my mixture and having ill effects on performance. also didn't do any real pulls on the way home, i still need to dial in pinion and what not as well as it still had the first batch of break in oil.

my exhaust isn't goona be the best but in my opinion its my only option. the 1 7/8 headers will stay on there for awhile, i will do the 2 inch and msd at same time, and will be running my ls1 exhaust which was 3 inch y pipe into 4 inch flow master merge, 1 dynomax bullet muffler dumped before axle. im a little lower and the 9 inch basically makes anything but a single 4 inch over the axle impossible, and i also grew to not like exhaust tips on camaros since im so used to not seeing them on mine. this setup also allows me to easily pass my inspection, i just slide off the 4 inch muffler after the y pipe and and i put on a 4 to 2.5" reduced pipe that has a muffler on it and goes out the back over the axle.

Floorman279

iTrader: (11)

i kinda just realized it is possible the tuners dyno could be a hair low, that dyno said i made 460 with my m6 HCI ls1, i ran nitto 555 extremes, averaged a 2.3 60 foot, and was running anywhere from 12.2 to 12.5, however my mph was always 121-122. with a 1.8 60 foot i probably would have averaged 122-124, which is in the strong ls1 range. 460 isn't necessarily a strong ls1

Floorman279

iTrader: (11)

im doing some more research and darth was right, my numbers are not that bad for the intake setup. i think my next step is exhaust as mentioned, then i think we address this possible heat soak IAT issue that im being told is common. what ill do is continue to run the truck maf, but i will go to auto zone and get an fbody IAT and put it in my lid. then ill run that one instead of using the one on the maf. then ill have a local buddy check up on the tune after the exhaust is added.....after a few more hundred miles ill leak down and compression, giving it more time to make sure the rings are goona be how they are goona be, just to check and see where things are at and ill save those numbers in case in the future i have issues and then i can use them for diagnostics then......does that sound like a decent plan?

SoFla01SSLookinstok

Sounds like a good plan.

dr_whigham

iTrader: (49)

That green filter flows like crazy and filters better than the K&N. I run a 14" variant on my LSA. Love me some Green Filter USA

fst100

iTrader: (5)

with the K&N, don't bother oiling them, since it causes more hindrance on air flow on top of possibility of messing up the maf.

Floorman279

iTrader: (11)

any chance you guys know of any air filter videos/comparisons showing this green filter compared to others? i believe you guys but i like learning along the way.

AndyTA

Point of interest 1:30


Take it with a grain of salt. Yes... the video shows it flows where the others do not (less restrictive) but for all we know, the difference could still be absolutely minimal. Let me explain:

If the threshold is at the very tipping edge of something,. it still is, or it isn't. 1, or 0. I believe this is how they've set this up. I could be wrong. But they may provided *JUST ENOUGH* flow to where the others don't push the ball up, but the green filter does. For all we know, the difference could be minimal.

With that being said though, I'm currently running the green filter myself. I don't notice any difference in my 427, before or after in terms of butt-dyno. I don't have any before/after dyno numbers either. Does it flow much better than I realize? Possibly.

Just to be CLEAR, I am NOT hating on the green filter. In fact, the test/demonstration is absolutely fair, and well done - and once again, I too am running the green filter, because "why not".

I'm sure there have been dyno tests done on this with before/after results. Someone will probably chime in with a video or two of such.

Floorman279

iTrader: (11)

thanks for the vid. well when i get my airflow taken care of in a year or so i will have a dyno with the AEM and the green for comparison

2010CamaroS

Your air flow is only as good as the smaller inside diameter on the induction side. If your cai has an ID of 2" And everything behind it is 5" Well guess what what ever that 2" ID can flow is all you'll get. Also if your CAI, tube is 5" ID and your maf is 3" Then back to 5" For tb and intake manifold then you'll only flow the 3" But the velocity of the air will be higher past the maf. Hope this make sense to you.

Get a tune for this engine and then see what it makes.

G Atsma

To help here, remember a chain (of airflow components) is only as strong as it's weakest (smallest diameter) link.

Floorman279

iTrader: (11)

this was on the same tune........tjhese were the 3 after it was done being tuned

2010CamaroS

Troof, there might be a video of fluid moving through different size glass pipes. Idk some people are better visual learners.

2010CamaroS

Oh ok gotcha, when you said same tune I assumed ( like an idiot) you ment from your old build lol. My bad so yea Id look at your induction side of things and make sure it's at least 102 mm or more throughout. It'll be expensive but you have an expensive set up. Can't make good power with out enough air to feed the beast!

Double06

What timing did this thing end up coming in at since the compression/fuel was sort of an issue in the prior post? Second the delta of 30 points between HP and TQ is really low given the cam size, heads, etc. I think normal deltas for stick cars are like 70-80 points. I do not know much about the build/car is there enough fuel pump in there for this engine I guess the AFR would show something?

Kfxguy

iTrader: (1)

This thread is funny. Op is pretty hard headed and doesnt take the advice of anyone. Yet worries about a problem that isnt the problem. LMAO.

Floorman279

iTrader: (11)

please explain where im not taking advice.....so i can actually try to help myself

i got the exhaust on there, which isn't the best but due to space constraints and needing to pass inspection, my best bet for now is a 3 inch into 4 inch flowmaster merge dumped before axle. feels a little better in the driveability area, but this thing still needs some work on the street side........cruising at 68 mph, 1800 rpms it still wants to surge a little. its got more surge than my 346 did with a 236/238.

one thing im noticing is my coolant is fluctuating. and its easily noticeable by my oil pressure. it wants to stay at 194 according to my scanner, but then i looked down during a WOT pull and notice my oil pressure is just a steady 40 when my rpms climb. im on my second batch of BR30, ported melting 10296. i hooked the scanner and now it says im at 212. i continue driving and temp doesnt really drop. i have seen it at 3 different operating temps. at 194 my cruising oil pressure is about 43 according to gauge, at 204 or so my oil psi cruising is 40, at 212 cruising is about 37. this is an aluminum block with stock ls1 radiator.

so could this be my heat issue? i know the ls likes to operate a little warmer than other motors, but i think we can agree it shouldn't be at 212........will it make less power at 212 rather than 194 assuming the IAT isn't heat soaking? while sitting and idling in traffic for 30 minutes my IAT didn't go above 110 from what i saw but after cruising at 30 mph for 1 minute they dropped to the mid 90s and cruising was right around 75 which was pretty close to outside temp.

so i will investigate into that. will first probably start by TAKING ADVICE and drilling a hole or 2 in the thermostat and see how that helps. its a black car and temps were about 70 outside so not too hot but warm.

Floorman279

iTrader: (11)

please elaborate more for me about delta.....i have heard that term but unsure of how it affect things (not being a smart *** legit question)

i believe he said he got 26 degrees, under WOT my scanner does say 26 degrees.

fueling is a lonnies doubles, im pretty certain he used twin walbro 340s. only one pump was running.