00Formula00

iTrader: (6)

I have my mods in the sig, not to mention a really bad y pipe, that is holding 10-15 (as said by my tuner) and I made 410rwhp/387rwtq on a smaller cam, smaller headers, and ls6 intake...my heads are milled but i would still think you should be a lot higher...

Detoxx03

iTrader: (14)

It does seems low. I have almost the same mods except the heads,pulley, and fast combo and I made 387. I'm looking to add those mods and hoping for a lot more than 401rwhp

98nosz28

iTrader: (1)

I think that the numbers are low also. I hit 421 with PRC 2.5 heads m3 camshaft, stock TB and pulley. I always thought that the afr and 90/90 would hit over 450. So with the a4 and 9" i was thinking around that 430 mark. But who cars about the dyno take it to the track and see what it can do.

slimcracka

iTrader: (7)

but was your converter locked? his #s are with the converter unlocked so its goin to show low...but autos are no dyno queens and he should be where he wants track time wise!

BriancWS6

iTrader: (18)

That setup should go 11s with ease. My previous car which was an a4, went 11s full weight on Nittos cam only (TSP 225/225). I also didn't have the TB ported either. Good luck when you hit the track!

helicoil

iTrader: (104)

This Y (catted Kooks) isn't much better IMO.

Hitting the track this Wednesday. Time will tell.

After driving it some the converter feels a little tight, hope it has enough...

helicoil

iTrader: (104)

Well, made it to the track and ran a 12.17 @ 113 with a 1.83 60ft. The converter is way tight in the car, it is only flashing to 2500 RPM. I am switching it to a SS4000. My track closes on Oct. 20 so I hope to get there once more this year.

The week of the 12-13th I will be in Memphis and that only leaves one week following to hit it. I think the converter will put it in the low 1.60's which should give me at least .3 on the other end.

I am running Full Weight through the tailpipes and converters.

Frost

iTrader: (45)

mph correlates with lower than expected dyno numbers sorry dude.

Frost

iTrader: (45)

it's not a poke; I was hoping you'd have good track results. I tuned a 402 with AFR225s and an unlocked stall that made only 419rwhp but backed it all up running 124mph right off the street (full weight and option car)...

edcmat-l1

iTrader: (10)

WOW, pretty disappointing. The converter being too tight will help the dyno numbers, but hurt the 1/4 mile performance.
Looks like you're missing a chunk of power.

mike c.

iTrader: (1)

Youe #'s are good for that WIMPY cam a 9'' and an a4. With AFR205,un-ported fast intake,kook headers and the g4x4 cam from LG motorsports My car is a m6 with a 12bolt and 4.11's. I made 463hp 414tq on a mustang dyno. I lost 25hp going to a mustang dyno,on a jet I should of been around 488hp. This power put me almost 10's motor on a stock weight car 3,700lbs w/me in it. You should try more cam like a g5x2 or g5x3 from LG motorsports. I had all the LG x cams and the x2(232/236) or x3(236/240) will make you more power and drive around town nice after a tune.

helicoil

iTrader: (104)

I am not to excited about it being slow. It just makes it more challenging.
No poke taken here. It is soft......I agree.

Not sure where the HP it is at. A little leary of the tune. I may need to revisit the dyno and another tuner. The parts here should warrant more, I agree.

The car is just a learning experience now, so it looks like I have some learning to do.
I will eventually install the Procharged 403 once I get the car (chassis/suspension/driveability) where I want it to be. However, I would like to optimize this set-up first and plan to do so.

I am looking into tuning software.....any recommendations? I have quite a bit of experience in late model driveability and basically built the car this way to get some exposure to the tuning end of it to be better on top of the Procharger set-up when I get it in.

The reason I posted the numbers and dyno sheet here was not to get poked.....but just to share. I know there are better HP set-ups out there. Not everyone is a LS1Tech guru right out of the box. Just looking for input, never implied anything else.

gruntwork

iTrader: (2)

The SS4000 will definitely help. What do you shift at? I have a slightly smaller cam and I shift at 6500. By getting my tranny rebuilt and changing my shift points from 6100 to 6500 I picked up about 4 mph average.

helicoil

iTrader: (104)

Any thoughts where to look. I thought MPH would be in the 117 range, but apparantly the power isn't there. Looking for things to look at in the tune.

helicoil

iTrader: (104)

Noticed the other night at the track 1-2 was at 6200 and 2-3 is at 6500-6600. I had thought the tuner had them both set at 6000RPM. I need to revisit this. I do have the valvetrain set-up to rev. Thanks.

I'll get it figured out, I agree the SS4000 will help, but it isn't the end all answer. Something is still missing.

helicoil

iTrader: (104)

I know the 224/230 114 lsa XE-R is no High HP cam. I was a little leary of going big and only had an initial goal of this car to run in the 11.80's with good street manners. I have read the LG cams are stout, I didn't want to do any flycutting, that was a prerequisite for my cam choice.

Thanks for the feedback though and those are some stout numbers you are putting down.

gruntwork

iTrader: (2)

I still think that with the right tune it will make over 400, even with your 9 inch. BTW, how does the car shift from 2-3 at WOT? Solid and quick, or slow and mushy?

helicoil

iTrader: (104)

Shifts are very solid and quick. +1 for the Finishline trans. It did make 401 at the tire, but torque is somewhat low with 366 at the tire, may be a timing issue??

edcmat-l1

iTrader: (10)

I would get it back on the dyno, and work out the dip up top. Run it locked in 3rd and with the verter locked. Something is making it drop significantly from 5800 to around 6400. Cure that, dial in the shifting, and you're golden. I wouldnt change any parts just yet. Thats not tuning. Thats parts swapping.
If you're into late model driveability. you know where I'm comin from.
The dip could be lots of things, but I would check the spring pressure, pushrod length, valvetrain geometry (wipe pattern).
Log a bunch of stuff, and see if you can see anything in the data stream. Like knock retard at the same point, or maxed out injector DC.
Approach it with a systematic diagnostic process, just as you would a driveability problem.
If you've got tuning software, post a run log and your tune.

machinistone

The 400 number is pointless right now - the graph shows that you have some serious breakup at high rpm - looks valvetrain related - fix that and you should see much higher numbers.