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AFR 205 224/230 114 lsa FAST 90/90 dyno results!

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Old 10-06-2007, 05:29 PM
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Your power numbers are going to drop dramatically if you dyno it unlocked with the
SS4000. That thing eats up power.
My 3500 dynoed 421 rwhp and 380Lbft. - unlocked
My 4000 dynoed 388 rwhp and 366Lbft - unlocked
But it pulls mad! - Way better than before.
Old 10-06-2007, 10:05 PM
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I say the same thing that Ed does here... HPTuners or EFILive are both full featured tuning suites, and both have their pro's and cons. I like that HPT sets you up with enough credits up front to license a few vehicles, and for a measly single credit you get a custom OS, MAF-enhanced it's called that allows you to do real time tuning on your stock PCM without having to buy any other hardware or anything at all. Very powerful! Based on your current setup and where you intend to go, I'd say get the software now and get to learning
Old 10-06-2007, 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by machinistone
The 400 number is pointless right now - the graph shows that you have some serious breakup at high rpm - looks valvetrain related - fix that and you should see much higher numbers.

It was the first thought and not saying it can't be, but the engine does not change tone in this area, nor can it be felt seat of the pants. There is no flutter, break up, etc. Actually, it is pulling pretty hard through that area, but the dyno is showing something. I initially thought it was some type of valve spring harmonic. I run the Patriot Gold shimmed to within .050" of coil bind, I believe the install height was 1.750", without double checking my notes.

I took extra time when assembling the engine checking valvetrain geometry to get the right lifter preload, confirming spring coil bind clearance, and checking rocker to valve tip contact area. It was all done on the stand. Although, I will pull the valve cover and have another look, it has been a couple of months now. Hard to remember it all now. I am pretty meticulous but anyone can make a mistake.
Old 10-06-2007, 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Mazzenger
Your power numbers are going to drop dramatically if you dyno it unlocked with the
SS4000. That thing eats up power.
My 3500 dynoed 421 rwhp and 380Lbft. - unlocked
My 4000 dynoed 388 rwhp and 366Lbft - unlocked
But it pulls mad! - Way better than before.
I won't be concerned with the dyno number if it performs in the 1/4.

Thanks for the heads up, it is always nice knowing what to expect heading in.

Did you track it before and after? Curious about 60 ft times.

I ran a guy last week at the track on my 12.17 who ran a 11.84. As I compared the E.T.s throughout they really make me think my car will hit my goal with the right converter. Here are the times.

Mine His
60' 1.830 1.707
330' 5.123 4.888
1/8 7.827 7.575
MPH 90.71 91.45
1000' 10.182 9.891
1/4 12.172 11.848
MPH 113.63 115.09

Our MPH is close, he just ET's better. Why? because he picked it up early in the run (60 ft time). His MPH's tell me the power is there for 11.8's. Now, I still agree I have some power to be found in my combo.

I truly believe if I hit a 1.65 or lower sixty, it will run 11.80 or better at 115-116mph
Old 10-06-2007, 10:49 PM
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Hope you get this solved.
Old 10-06-2007, 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by edcmat-l1
I would get it back on the dyno, and work out the dip up top. Run it locked in 3rd and with the verter locked. Something is making it drop significantly from 5800 to around 6400. Cure that, dial in the shifting, and you're golden. I wouldnt change any parts just yet. Thats not tuning. Thats parts swapping.
If you're into late model driveability. you know where I'm comin from.
The dip could be lots of things, but I would check the spring pressure, pushrod length, valvetrain geometry (wipe pattern).
Log a bunch of stuff, and see if you can see anything in the data stream. Like knock retard at the same point, or maxed out injector DC.
Approach it with a systematic diagnostic process, just as you would a driveability problem.
If you've got tuning software, post a run log and your tune.
No tuning software yet, haven't made a decision as to what to get.....suggestions??

I will do some snapshots with the Tech II next time I am out in it and look for anything unusual in that 5800 RPM area.

I absolutley no where you are coming from! I have found stranger things with cars in my lifetime that some would call BS on within no time flat of me typing it on this keyboard.
I will retrace my steps in the valvetrain area.......one thing does come to mind......that was that spacer shim that the Ultra Light Yella Terra rockers came with to go under the pedastal......hmmm

Thanks
Old 10-06-2007, 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Frost
I say the same thing that Ed does here... HPTuners or EFILive are both full featured tuning suites, and both have their pro's and cons. I like that HPT sets you up with enough credits up front to license a few vehicles, and for a measly single credit you get a custom OS, MAF-enhanced it's called that allows you to do real time tuning on your stock PCM without having to buy any other hardware or anything at all. Very powerful! Based on your current setup and where you intend to go, I'd say get the software now and get to learning

Thanks, those were the two I was looking at. I don't know enough about either one to pull the trigger. My tuner uses LS1 edit. Looks like it will be a long winter learning.

I do need to commit to the software.....right now, I do have an open door to the tuner/dyno (personal friend), just a little uncertain about some of his philosophies.
Old 10-07-2007, 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by helicoil
Thanks, those were the two I was looking at. I don't know enough about either one to pull the trigger. My tuner uses LS1 edit. Looks like it will be a long winter learning.

I do need to commit to the software.....right now, I do have an open door to the tuner/dyno (personal friend), just a little uncertain about some of his philosophies.
Def go with hpt or efilive. Scratch the edit. Hpt is a little cheaper, more additional credits up front. PM sent.
One more thing to look at is your map at wot. If you're building vacuum at the top of the run, you have a restriction. That'll cause a nose over too. But they usually dont come back up as yours did.
It doesnt look like a converter issue, but its possible.
Old 10-11-2007, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Slowhawk
Looks like it was going to make more hp without the hiccup. The graph looks like valve float or possibly too long of a pushrod is being used.

Update....I sent the graph to Tony Mamo and he too believes, almost certain in fact, it is a valvetrain problem.

I have gotten input as to the use of the shim under the Yella Terra rocker stand. It appears it is better to be used. This itself will add .060" to the needed pushrod length. I am currently running a 7.350" which pre-loads the lifter about 3/4 turn (.075"). I have also learned this is not enough. It should be more in the neighborhood of 1 1/2 to 2 turns ( I believe this is the factory spec also). So I am gong to try a 7.500" pushrod.

I am running a Patriot Gold valve spring set up at a 1.750" height. It looks like I may need to try a spring with 150-155# on the seat and closer to 400# OPEN.

I will be surprised if it is the valvespring, I would have thought that the Patriot golds shimmed up (135# seat /360# Open ) would have done the trick on a XE-R lobe. However, I could see it being the lifter pre-load and rocker geometry. The problem is definitely there, but is not extreme.

I may try the shim and more lifter pre-load first and re dyno it. If it is still there then change the springs.
Old 10-11-2007, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by machinistone
The 400 number is pointless right now - the graph shows that you have some serious breakup at high rpm - looks valvetrain related - fix that and you should see much higher numbers.

Ditto fix that before you go race it or BOOM!
Old 11-06-2007, 07:25 PM
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Any update?
Old 11-09-2007, 11:24 PM
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Installed different valvesprings with 155 lbs on the seat and 410 lbs open. Sunk the lifters 1 1/2 turns this time (used a longer pushrod). Looking to get to the dyno next week some time. I will post results, I very curious to see if anything changes. I am also planning to try some different timing adjust ments while there if the upper RPM hiccups are gone.
Old 04-12-2008, 04:31 PM
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NEW Patriot Extreme Gold springs installed and the addition of a Yank 4000SS put me in the 11.51 range so far at the track. Dyno peak HP and TQ remained the same with the spring change (graph attached). Shift points were set low (6100 RM), next time at track they will be at 6450RPM and I believe it will get me into the 11.40's. The Yank 4000SS was just what this car needed, the Yank PY3400 was not suited to this engines power curve at all. I got almost .7 from a converter change.

Car is stock weight minus drag wheels and tires, running through converters and a Magnaflow catback system
Attached Thumbnails AFR 205 224/230 114 lsa FAST 90/90 dyno results!-2000-camaro-ss-launching.jpg   AFR 205 224/230 114 lsa FAST 90/90 dyno results!-2000-camaro-ss-racetrack-009.jpg   AFR 205 224/230 114 lsa FAST 90/90 dyno results!-2000-camaro-ss-racetrack-010.jpg   AFR 205 224/230 114 lsa FAST 90/90 dyno results!-2000-camaro-ss-racetrack-008.jpg   AFR 205 224/230 114 lsa FAST 90/90 dyno results!-new-valvespring-dyno.jpg  

Old 04-13-2008, 06:28 PM
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Wow, that's great almost 117mph and 11.5s, awesome!
Old 04-13-2008, 07:12 PM
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Congrats man... those are great numbers!
Old 04-14-2008, 02:28 AM
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congrats on the run
Old 04-14-2008, 12:27 PM
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Thinking about going Wednesday night again to try the higher shift points. I can't help but wonder what it would run if it made the power everybody said it should. I am pretty tickled for such a mild cam and only 402RWHP.

Here is link to a video of the 11.51 pass. My car is the quiet run, can't even here it hardly, all the noise is from the guy next to me. He had true duals dumped at the axle.

http://s160.photobucket.com/albums/t...4-10-08mpg.flv



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