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View Poll Results: realistic numbers
yes on both h/p n tq
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72.00%
no on both h/p n tq
4
16.00%
yes on h/p no on tq
2
8.00%
no on h/p yes on tq
1
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Voters: 25. You may not vote on this poll

Are my goals realistic?

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Old Dec 15, 2007 | 08:47 AM
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Default Are my goals realistic?

440 rwhp
400 rwtq
low 12's

with the following setup:

ftra
lid n filter
delphi 85
slp bellow
!air
!egr
tb bypass
nick williams 90 throttle body
fast 90 intake ( unported )
msd wires
ngk plugs tr55's
tsp 5.3 stage 2.5 heads ( stock gasket thickness )
stock rockers ( 1.7 )
custom comp cam 232/238 .595/ .605 112+4
stock bottom end
asp underdrive pulley 25%
pacesetter long tubes
18in bullets
true duels
!cats
3400/ 2.1 stall
pro built tranny 4l60e ( lvl 2 )
alum. d/s
10 bolt w/ motive 3.73's
~tuned for everything by one of the best tuners in the buisness

Last edited by 3rdgentug; Dec 15, 2007 at 09:15 AM.
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Old Dec 15, 2007 | 09:01 AM
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With an aggressive tune I think it's very possible. As for the ET, as long as you have drag radials, then if you can't hit an 11 with that much power and an automatic then you better be racing at mile high dragway, lol.
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Old Dec 15, 2007 | 09:14 AM
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yea i know w/ drag radials high 11's if my hp/tq goals are reached, i just dont entend on using them w/ this rear, the rear has got to last for now.

once i upgrade ill use d/r and i know ill be in the 11's then

im in memphis tennesse, where they just had the shootout, dunno what the elevation is but the weather never seems to be real cooperative esp during the summer times
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Old Dec 15, 2007 | 09:19 AM
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Alot of power is useless without tires. Once you can make the upgrades and get the drag radials on it you'll be very pleased. That car will be way into the 11's with that power and traction.
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Old Dec 15, 2007 | 09:29 AM
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sweet thx man!
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Old Dec 16, 2007 | 04:12 PM
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i think you will go faster (mph) with street tires but go quicker (lower e/t) on a good tire
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Old Dec 16, 2007 | 05:50 PM
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I agree. Those numbers are possible with that setup and a great tune, but you're going to lose a lot if you swap in a 12-bolt or 9-inch. BUT, drag radials or slicks with that much power means goodbye to the 10-bolt, haha. Drag radials and 440/400 in an auto will go deep into the 11s. On street tires, you'll be fighting for low 12s with major traction issues halfway down the track.
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Old Dec 16, 2007 | 06:49 PM
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with that package and some good tires mid 11's easily.
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Old Dec 16, 2007 | 07:27 PM
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How much power is lost on average when you swap from a stock rear to a 12-bolt or 9-inch?
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Old Dec 16, 2007 | 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike00ss
How much power is lost on average when you swap from a stock rear to a 12-bolt or 9-inch?
Don't know but it can't be that much. I made 410hp/390tq with the TRex through a steel driveshaft, 9" with 4.11s
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Old Dec 16, 2007 | 08:42 PM
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I don't know if your power numbers are gonna be there with the A4 (not dyno monsters) but your ET goals will be there. On a street tire you will probably get 12.0 to 12.5 with good trap speeds, and a DR (which I used with my auto with stock rear) you could get into the 11's but a little lower trap. Just my $0.02
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Old Dec 16, 2007 | 09:45 PM
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I would think you could get mid 11's with that setup.
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Old Dec 16, 2007 | 10:05 PM
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You should get 11s no problem with that setup.
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Old Dec 17, 2007 | 01:51 AM
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Originally Posted by ncnumber8
I would think you could get mid 11's with that setup.
I think that 11's with a street tire will be difficult because traction with a street tire is going to be minimal. He may spin in 2nd gear not just in the first 60'.
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Old Dec 17, 2007 | 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike00ss
How much power is lost on average when you swap from a stock rear to a 12-bolt or 9-inch?
These are old numbers now, but my car had dynoed 405/367 with the stock driveshaft and 10-bolt w/ 3.73s. I then installed a 3.5" aluminum driveshaft and a 12-bolt w/ 4.10s and dynoed 386/344 with no other changes.

So I lost 19/23 to the wheels with the beefier driveshaft and 12-bolt, which was a must on both accounts if I wanted peace of mind.
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Old Dec 17, 2007 | 08:30 AM
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Why does everyone think that DR's will lose mph? I've never seen this happen in my entire life. Slicks will generally lower the trap speeds a bit due to low tire pressure, but drag radials won't. The drag radials will allow you to hook up sooner, therefore allowing more time to accelerate and enable you to get up to a higher speed.
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Old Dec 17, 2007 | 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by ScreaminRedZ
Why does everyone think that DR's will lose mph? I've never seen this happen in my entire life. Slicks will generally lower the trap speeds a bit due to low tire pressure, but drag radials won't. The drag radials will allow you to hook up sooner, therefore allowing more time to accelerate and enable you to get up to a higher speed.
thats what ive always heard
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Old Dec 17, 2007 | 11:42 AM
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I'm just saying that in all the cars I've raced and all the cars I've seen at the track, this has never proven true so far.
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Old Dec 17, 2007 | 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by ExceSSive
I think that 11's with a street tire will be difficult because traction with a street tire is going to be minimal. He may spin in 2nd gear not just in the first 60'.

thats also what i believe, thats why i said shooting for low 12's


my car isnt a drag car, its a street car. i want to know on the street what it would run basically. putting on d/r or slicks and running 11.xx or whatever isnt a big deal to me b/c thats not what i run on the street. if id wanted it to be a drag car it would have a 12 bolt or 9 inch with lower gears, better heads, and a way more agressive cam ect..........
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Old Dec 18, 2007 | 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by ScreaminRedZ
Why does everyone think that DR's will lose mph? I've never seen this happen in my entire life. Slicks will generally lower the trap speeds a bit due to low tire pressure, but drag radials won't. The drag radials will allow you to hook up sooner, therefore allowing more time to accelerate and enable you to get up to a higher speed.
the concept is the same for any type of vehicle... its just a matter of wheel spin compared to hooking.

if your tires spin obviously you dont go somewhere as fast but when they hook your mph at that location is faster allowing your car to "start"(assuming it hooks at that time) accelerating at a higher mph further back, which is why your trap is higher and your ET is lower.

Typically it works out that street tires are the best example since they dont get the best traction, then DR's, then slicks.

As far as your 10 bolt and auto... ive seen people go low 10's on stock rear with an auto... its not as bad as 6 speeds cause it preloads the rear so it wont snap. plus they have lower gearing so the teeth on the gearing are beefier and less prone to snap. id say throw on some DR's on there and you should be set.
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