IRONFIST

So I made a bit less then 390hp with my eps cam and am not sure if it's a bit low. What results are you guys making with this cam and what are your combos?

A.R. Shale Targa

iTrader: (2)

I'm guessing your duration is 226/234 @ .050 ????
My 218/226 made 365rwhp with SAE correction.

bene

iTrader: (16)

Mine is .597/.598 lift with stock 243s and went over 440. I'll do a follow up when the track here opens this spring to see if it match up with the HP it put down.

IRONFIST

That's to the crank right? I heard British dynos are corrected to the flywheel. If so we are making very similar numbers, but my cams a bit bigger.

IRONFIST

Yep.... No clue why I'd skip that on my original post.

bene

iTrader: (16)

No that's at the rear wheels.

odarabla

iTrader: (1)

Your only giving the lift #'s on that cam which is not as important as the duration #'s @50. The duration #'s tell the cam how long the valve will stay open. The lift #'s tell the valve how far it will open. What was the LSA on the cam?

Also what are you trying to prove with this thread? Are you saying that Geoff doesn't know what he is doing or something.
Remember this, dyno #'s don't mean ****. My car only dynoed 450rwhp and 395ftorq and ran a best of 10.39@129mph at the track with a built 402ci LS2 and a th350 tranny. Full weight 2002 Camaro Z28 race weight is 3500+lbs.
Go run the damn thing and let us know what she does!!

Indyjc

iTrader: (1)

I think 385 hp at the wheels for a cam, few bolt ons are pretty stout numbers. Are you going to run it at the track next year?

mac62989

iTrader: (1)

Dont wanna speak for the OP but I dont think hes bashing EPS at all. He is wondering why he dynoed so low with that size cam and 243s. While all dynos are different and the true test is the track, I think hes just a little confused and maybe pissed why he dynoed so low.

IRONFIST

This is exactly it... I'm a huge EPS fan, and my cam is a very common EPS grind... But I'm looking to see if my numbers are on par with others on this board or if I messed up somewhere.
Due to noise regulations the city has shut down our local track so I'm afraid the dyno is my only way to verify. The cam I have is the EPS .598 / .601, 226/234, 113.

A.R. Shale Targa

iTrader: (2)

I think car craft or some mag just did an article about chassis dyno "tricks"
that certain shops use to change the numbers. Tire pressure, strap tightness,
hood open, fan in front of car, all can affect final #s. If yours is 385 w/SAE
correction factor; STD would kick the total up to almost 400. I'm betting you
are right on making close to 465 flywheel horsepower and you will trap about
117-118 mph in the quarter.

gtotoocool1

iTrader: (6)

the onlly thing you messed up,is not having all the supporting mods.in your other thread you posted,your running the OEM airbox and TB,correct?right there your leaving HP on the table.an aftermarket lid on an otherwise stock motor is good for about 10rwhp.most setups i've seen that put out well over 400rwhp have more mods than you do.like i said in the other thread,you have to let that engine breathe bro.

mac62989

iTrader: (1)

Agreed, dont know why a lid would be the last bolt on someone does but I still think the numbers would be low for that size cam and 243s.

gtotoocool1

iTrader: (6)

all depends on the dyno.when i had my Z/28 i took it to 3 different dynos and the #s varied by almost 20 hp,all with the same mods.
he's missing most mods people start with:ported TB,lid and an UD pulley.those 3 things on that motor are probably worth 20+rwhp.

mac62989

iTrader: (1)

Couldnt agree more but all Im saying is Ive seen this cam with stock TB, no UD pulley, and stock 241s just make 400 rwhp. I think with a ported FAST 92 he got to 415ish. To me with 243s it just doesnt add up when hes not even making what a car with 241s normally does.

IRONFIST

Alright, after liberal use of the search button it looks like I'm right where I should be. A lid, bellows, cut-out, and ported TB should get me over 400 and a fast setup should push that to 415ish, and better heads would take it to 445ish...
I've already ordered a lid.

This car had very similar mods to mine and put down 400 with the cam then nearly 470 with a new top end
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...inc-tuned.html

RoidedSS

i was just about to say, have those 243's shipped to AI and watch your numbers blow up...with head work, TB, lid, bellows and a cutout, I think you could probably see 440+ on a dynojet, maybe more.

IRONFIST

Yeah... better heads are enticing. But I will first see what a better top end does for me. I think my unusually high torque numbers are a dead give away that there's too much restriction in the induction.

Right now my car is making more torque then similar cars with the same cam and much more HP.


Here's my dyno chart

Here's one I found searching, exact same set up as mine but with induction mods (in a vette)

And there's this one, same cam, similar HP, but I'm making almost 15ftlbs more torque
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...y-numbers.html

RoidedSS

horsepower is a byproduct of torque (for most cases), instead of doing a top end, unless the money permits, I would send the heads to AI, and have a ported FAST intake to match your newly ported 243's. Just my opinion. If you can swing a new set of heads, I'lm sure the number's will match what you want, but at a higher cost. Start off with a lid, pulley, bellows, and throttle body and see where you're at. I wouldn't say you NEED to change you're heads though.....

mac62989

iTrader: (1)

x2. Get yourself a lid and port your TB. If you still want more power, which you will, send those 243s to AI and get a FAST intake and youll be 450+ all day.