Maryland inspection
 

Anyone in MD certified to do this? Or know a good place that would overlook ORY / no cats, egr ?
Don't want to drop money on putting stock headers / cut my ORY just to redo it. The egr is still on the car, just not run into the headers.

Dealing with a few shops around here in the past has been mostly tightasses, like the MVA in general

thanks

Considering the fines involved for the inspector if caught I think you'll be hard pressed to find someone willing to do this for "a guy on LS1tech with 1 post". Doesn't hurt to ask tho I guess....

Well the 1 post thing, had a V6 before, fell outta the car scene a fewyears ago. Totalled it, been lurking around and found a bigger birdy coming soon, so what better time to get back into it. Did a few american iron shootouts at Cecil 2003/4 I think, probably saw some people there.

As far as fines.. Easily gotten around. When I got a citation for my tint I took it to a place that closed since then. He asked if I was just gonna go across the street to D&L to have it put back on, I said yes, and he just signed it. Same sort of deal, shops aren't held accountable for what's done after the inspection

What he is saying is, how will a shop know your not the State Police posing as a customer. If they were to get caught for some reason, they face like a $50,000 fine, and jail time, and can never get re-certified. I mean you could find someone but, for the money they would want to overlook it, it wouldn't be worth it. My sound a little far fetched, but MSP has had such task forces for the Inspection process and have been very successful.

I guess that's a stupid request from someone who knows no one, changing the OP so I don't sound like I'm tryin to bribe someone.

If I did a ls6 intake would the lack of egr be overlooked since there's no holes or would I have to demod it even further to pass? =\

Bingo.

Well, I'm more interested in my new question of if I do the ls6 intake, would they tell me I needed an egr?

Looking more of a costing as little as possible for it to pass, redoing stock headers without a lift and no heat in my garage does not sound like a pleasant experience.

I can get around the cat thing easily, I know the egr is gonna fail my inspection. It's still on the car, just have longtubes so it's not functional /code deleted.

Can this not turn into a "he's a cop" thread? I changed my OP, not asking for anyone to pass this thing for me, just need info on getting it to pass. Post counts don't count in the for-sales, so that's why I have just a handful.
Thanks I guess

No the car has to retain all emissions that came on the car. So yes still has to have the egr and all the tubes in place.

Now if its all in place, thats all that matters, its a visual only, none of the stuff actually has to function.

Basically, from where I had mine inspected and my GF's repair shop. The only way to pass is to have all necessary components of the inspection. The detailed list of what has to be inspected will point out EVERY component and emissions has its own section. In all honesty the egr isnt that difficult to put back on so i would bolt it up and get it inspected. You get to take it back within 30 days for free for them to reinspect it if it fails.

Well the egr is on it. Just can't hook into the LPPs

Take it someplace, who knows they might not even notice the pipes missing if they dont deal with the cars much.

Would anyone have the actual checklist of stupid shit they have to look for?
Kind of shadey how it's not available online so as to basically set you up for failure.
Read a lot of stuff about people getting pegged for ride height, aiming of headlights bullshit I'd like to avoid.

Its a book of things that need to be inspected, the check list doesnt even list everything that has to be checked.

Exactly....

Gonna get a copy of what they are "required" to checkoff per MD. I'll post what I get, maybe a sticky, least get the info out to people.

Really isnt as easy as that, getting the book alone is a pain. I can tell you whats on the check sheet, but thats just key points that get checked off.

I am not going to list every detail of whats in the book it would take more time than its worth, but what questions you have, I will answer.

Well mainly concerned about brake depth, rotors, shit I can fix or def "check off" before I even go and take it.

And after it's temp registered I have 30 days to get it inspected, would taking it towards the end of that and failing grant me another 30days to get it inspected again?

Damn holidays. I don't see "sorry honey no Xmas presents, buyin stuff for birdy" working too well lol

Witht he 30 day tags, you can ask for an extension for another 30 days and they will pretty much give it to you no questions asked, if they do just say its getting repaired and you need more time. Ive done this with 2 cars before and had 60 days to get the inspection.

Easy checks, make sure there are no shocks leaking, all sway bar links are in place, no play in any of the steering or suspension components. No leaks in any of the power steering including the steering rack. Brake fluid must be over half full. Brakes can not be lower than 2/32". Brake rotors I would have to look up specs, if you give me the year/make/model.

Drivers window must work full up and down. All seatbelts must be in the car and function. Belts can not be frayed at all. Even if the rear seat is deleted, still must retain the rear seatbelts. Drivers seat must be fully functional in all adjustments. Every light on the car must work, the horn must work, wiper blades and arms in good condition. All door handles inside and out must work. No fuel or exhaust leaks. Turn signals must self cancel in both directions. Hazards have to work. Tires cant be down to the wear bar indicators. Brake hoses cant be cracked or leaking, no leaks in the brake lines. Parking brake must hold both up and down hill. If its an automatic, Park/Neutral safety switch has to work, the indicator for gear position must work along with the light.

You get the idea.