NED wed. 10-9-13 edit*went 12.1 stock internals ful weight
#1
NED wed. 10-9-13 edit*went 12.1 stock internals ful weight
Weather looks like it should be pretty good , taking my mystic teal car down after work to see if the howling 10 bolt will take a pass or 2 lol
Last edited by murphinator; 10-12-2013 at 06:01 PM.
#3
Man it was dead last night , maybe 40 cars , great air , track went away quickly as usual on a October street night but it was nice to get back on the track been 3 years for me and about 20 years since I had anything v8 or rear drive down there lol.
First pass went 12.5 @ 109 then got slower as the track got worse , went to remove sway bar and the end links were rusted too bad , borrowed a sawzall and cut them off , removed bar , dropped from 15 to 13 in the MT's and tossed my toolbox in the trunk lol , got the 60 foots back into the 1.7's , not great for a stalled bolt on car but those of you that hit cold street night know you don't pull 1.5's unless you invest some seat time , effort , and money none of which I have done lol
ended up with a best of 12.155 @112 and backed it up with a 12.274@110 , it was nice to get back out there and with a little seat time and a tighter 60 foot this stock internals full weight car should go 11.9's , it does have ac removed but I am pretty sure my toolbox added double what was removed
First pass went 12.5 @ 109 then got slower as the track got worse , went to remove sway bar and the end links were rusted too bad , borrowed a sawzall and cut them off , removed bar , dropped from 15 to 13 in the MT's and tossed my toolbox in the trunk lol , got the 60 foots back into the 1.7's , not great for a stalled bolt on car but those of you that hit cold street night know you don't pull 1.5's unless you invest some seat time , effort , and money none of which I have done lol
ended up with a best of 12.155 @112 and backed it up with a 12.274@110 , it was nice to get back out there and with a little seat time and a tighter 60 foot this stock internals full weight car should go 11.9's , it does have ac removed but I am pretty sure my toolbox added double what was removed
Last edited by murphinator; 10-10-2013 at 08:45 PM.
#6
I would love to see what it does run for you, that car makes good power I don't care if it's 273's I would be surprised if it didn't run into the 12's on a good tire this time of year , I had some fun with that one lol have you changed anything on it yet ?
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#9
I wish I had your stall and suspension , 1.5's would have gotten me out of the 12's for sure.
Being my first time there with any 4th gen I know I wasn't able to even take advantage of the current stall .. The biggest mistake I think I made was airing up the non driven tires like I have on my front drive cars (FWD PB 12.2@118) , I couldn't preload the car much without pushing out of the pre stage beam , next time I would try leaving the front pressures normal, I had them at 55psi.
As injured as the rear is I didn't want to try letting it flash and hit , I wanted it loaded and could have loaded it more if it wasn't pushing. I know there is much debate as to which approach is most effective but figured preloading would lessen the shock but the extra weight transfer from flashing it may have helped my overall launch...
Which way do you approach it Nikon , preload or flash ??
Being my first time there with any 4th gen I know I wasn't able to even take advantage of the current stall .. The biggest mistake I think I made was airing up the non driven tires like I have on my front drive cars (FWD PB 12.2@118) , I couldn't preload the car much without pushing out of the pre stage beam , next time I would try leaving the front pressures normal, I had them at 55psi.
As injured as the rear is I didn't want to try letting it flash and hit , I wanted it loaded and could have loaded it more if it wasn't pushing. I know there is much debate as to which approach is most effective but figured preloading would lessen the shock but the extra weight transfer from flashing it may have helped my overall launch...
Which way do you approach it Nikon , preload or flash ??
#11
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Just some maintainence items. Rear pads and rotors, LR caliper. Water pump, and the brake lines. Added cats to the mid pipes, I needed to tame the exhaust tone down a bit. Fixed the BCM soldering issue for the radio/ window problem. She is coming off the road this week. I close on my new house tomorrow and wont be driving it much over the next few months. Hopefully i will take it up in the spring.
#13
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Wow, car moves great without touching the motor, what is your race weight?
That stall might give a little down low but seems to be fairly efficient with traps like that. You should be pretty happy with how its running. Most bolt on a4's don't get much past 110mph without a cam once you start hooking a little better. With ET streets you got plenty of tire anyways.
Glad to see folks taking advantage of the cool autumn air.
That stall might give a little down low but seems to be fairly efficient with traps like that. You should be pretty happy with how its running. Most bolt on a4's don't get much past 110mph without a cam once you start hooking a little better. With ET streets you got plenty of tire anyways.
Glad to see folks taking advantage of the cool autumn air.
#16
Wow, car moves great without touching the motor, what is your race weight?
That stall might give a little down low but seems to be fairly efficient with traps like that. You should be pretty happy with how its running. Most bolt on a4's don't get much past 110mph without a cam once you start hooking a little better. With ET streets you got plenty of tire anyways.
Glad to see folks taking advantage of the cool autumn air.
That stall might give a little down low but seems to be fairly efficient with traps like that. You should be pretty happy with how its running. Most bolt on a4's don't get much past 110mph without a cam once you start hooking a little better. With ET streets you got plenty of tire anyways.
Glad to see folks taking advantage of the cool autumn air.
I tried manualy shifting it but went slower and as you can tell in the vids it was short shifting when left in OD , it also felt slightly hesitant in upper rpm's compared to my 6 speed car , maybe noticing the difference in the truck coils , maybe ready for wires ? had new fuel filter andNGKTR6's...
I did trailer the car there ( have never registerred it)and made a couple laps around the pits to bring the temp above flat and by parking it every pass with the hood up was able to keep the car around the bottom of the temp guage. Overall I was happy it did what it did with as many things that can improve as I was able to find. Pretty much did all the little things I learned making hundreds of passes in w bodies over the years ,stay out of the water , shallow staging , run in the groove , look to end of track when staging and racing to keep steering corrections to a minimum , engine off/hood up whenever possible , fewer passes with proper cool downs ,etc...
DA was real good, from punching in NED weather in drag times it was -1100 or so , I have been on nights in the -1500 range with other cars but those are pretty damn hard to find lol usually first half of april or end of oct on dry , still , clear nights...
both 60 foots and traps were about the same as I watched my 6 speed stock internals car go for the previous owner (MIKE454SS)before I bought it (1.7/111.xx), he was able to sneak 3 11.9's out of that one in a row but I know it is no longer capable of that , still pulls harder than the one I took wed. but it now shifts like the 237,000 miles it has on it - no lift shifts are out of the question lol
#17
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I wish I had your stall and suspension , 1.5's would have gotten me out of the 12's for sure.
Being my first time there with any 4th gen I know I wasn't able to even take advantage of the current stall .. The biggest mistake I think I made was airing up the non driven tires like I have on my front drive cars (FWD PB 12.2@118) , I couldn't preload the car much without pushing out of the pre stage beam , next time I would try leaving the front pressures normal, I had them at 55psi.
As injured as the rear is I didn't want to try letting it flash and hit , I wanted it loaded and could have loaded it more if it wasn't pushing. I know there is much debate as to which approach is most effective but figured preloading would lessen the shock but the extra weight transfer from flashing it may have helped my overall launch...
Which way do you approach it Nikon , preload or flash ??
Being my first time there with any 4th gen I know I wasn't able to even take advantage of the current stall .. The biggest mistake I think I made was airing up the non driven tires like I have on my front drive cars (FWD PB 12.2@118) , I couldn't preload the car much without pushing out of the pre stage beam , next time I would try leaving the front pressures normal, I had them at 55psi.
As injured as the rear is I didn't want to try letting it flash and hit , I wanted it loaded and could have loaded it more if it wasn't pushing. I know there is much debate as to which approach is most effective but figured preloading would lessen the shock but the extra weight transfer from flashing it may have helped my overall launch...
Which way do you approach it Nikon , preload or flash ??
My stall seems to be a little loose for me honestly, feel like I'm loosing out on the top end but...
My best results are I usually load up the car just a tad, maybe 2-2.5k rpm and then flash it. Car leaves pretty good that way.
Next time anyone sees my car stop by and say hi!
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Nice runs! No need to manually shift. Way back in the day I used to autotap a lot of runs so I could see exactly where the car was shifting. In both a bolt-on and later cammed '98 Formula and then a bolt-on '02 Z28 shifting manually didn't help. The tach may lag a bit so don't base it off of that.
Instead of trying to the load convertor at all try just mashing it. I had a Vig 2800 with bolt-ons, then a Vig 2800 with a T1 cam, then that combo with a Yank 4200, and then a smaller 3500 (I forget the brand.) My '02 had a Vig 3600 with bolt-ons. Every single combo 60 footed better just going brake to gas. It surprised me but the proof was in the timeslip. Loading it up (if perfect hook) usually resulted in a low/mid 1.7 short time. Brake to gas hard got me into the 1.6s. Both cars had 3.23s and I believe the Formula was 3530 lbs with me in it. I don't recall ever weighing the Z28 but I would assume about the same. (both had the usual options, leather and ttops)
Autotap will also show the stall actually flashes slightly higher when going just from brake to gas with one foot.
I agree totally about 110 being a solid trap speed. IIRC my '98 trapped 109.XX pre-cam and my '02 trapped either 109 or 110 as well.
Great runs!
Instead of trying to the load convertor at all try just mashing it. I had a Vig 2800 with bolt-ons, then a Vig 2800 with a T1 cam, then that combo with a Yank 4200, and then a smaller 3500 (I forget the brand.) My '02 had a Vig 3600 with bolt-ons. Every single combo 60 footed better just going brake to gas. It surprised me but the proof was in the timeslip. Loading it up (if perfect hook) usually resulted in a low/mid 1.7 short time. Brake to gas hard got me into the 1.6s. Both cars had 3.23s and I believe the Formula was 3530 lbs with me in it. I don't recall ever weighing the Z28 but I would assume about the same. (both had the usual options, leather and ttops)
Autotap will also show the stall actually flashes slightly higher when going just from brake to gas with one foot.
I agree totally about 110 being a solid trap speed. IIRC my '98 trapped 109.XX pre-cam and my '02 trapped either 109 or 110 as well.
Great runs!
#19
thanks for your insight Kenny , I wish I had tried flashing it once at the end of the night , go or blow for the rear lol
as for the traps I was always able to run 1-2 mph higher than most similarly modded cars on the forums with my FWD Buicks also , I attribute it to always picking nights with da's in the -1000 range , bringing a dead cold car on a trailer , and only making passes when the coolant temp is barely off the bottom of the guage , cooler intake charge will make more power - quality over quantity , car spends more time parked with the hood up than making passes for sure and rarely back to back passes.
on a 70 degree night driving it to the track and making as many passes as possible I imagine it would have trapped around 108....
My 4 door ,front drive , full weight (3444) , v6/factory sc buick regal gs trapped 104 stock internals with mild bolt ons.
I always logged my fwd cars every pass with my hp tuners but my laptop died and another is not in the budget right now and besides that I havent licensed any of my f bodies as I havent been racing , I wished I was able to adjust the tranny tune that night , the shift speed & rpm could use a bump for sure
as for the traps I was always able to run 1-2 mph higher than most similarly modded cars on the forums with my FWD Buicks also , I attribute it to always picking nights with da's in the -1000 range , bringing a dead cold car on a trailer , and only making passes when the coolant temp is barely off the bottom of the guage , cooler intake charge will make more power - quality over quantity , car spends more time parked with the hood up than making passes for sure and rarely back to back passes.
on a 70 degree night driving it to the track and making as many passes as possible I imagine it would have trapped around 108....
My 4 door ,front drive , full weight (3444) , v6/factory sc buick regal gs trapped 104 stock internals with mild bolt ons.
I always logged my fwd cars every pass with my hp tuners but my laptop died and another is not in the budget right now and besides that I havent licensed any of my f bodies as I havent been racing , I wished I was able to adjust the tranny tune that night , the shift speed & rpm could use a bump for sure
Last edited by murphinator; 10-18-2013 at 05:48 PM.