Looking for a good LS1 troubleshooting shop in the East
10-05-2005, 09:50 AM
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Looking for a good LS1 troubleshooting shop in the East I've tried for a year to figure out the oil burning problem, rebuilt the entire motor, ls6 pcv, catch can, still can't figure it out.(https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...37#post3593337)
Anyone have any experience with any of the sponsor or other shops on the East. Closer to NY would be better, but I'm so desperate I would be willing to drive 6 hours if the shop knows there stuff.
Anyone have any experience with any of the sponsor or other shops on the East. Closer to NY would be better, but I'm so desperate I would be willing to drive 6 hours if the shop knows there stuff.
10-05-2005, 10:12 AM
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I've gotten a lot of work done at TTPerformance in Clifton NJ. They know what they're doing and will treat you right. If you want to get in touch with them, send a pm to TTPMatt or give them a call. Their website is www.ttperformance.net
10-05-2005, 11:27 AM
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Eastside is about 6 hours from me.
TR224 cam package, pushrods, 918 springs. Stock heads re-ground valves, stock bottom end, honed block, speed pro rings. Mostly stock replacements stuff. LS6 PCV, AMW catch can.
TR224 cam package, pushrods, 918 springs. Stock heads re-ground valves, stock bottom end, honed block, speed pro rings. Mostly stock replacements stuff. LS6 PCV, AMW catch can.
10-05-2005, 12:03 PM
#6
Give Eastside a call, they may be able to help you out. One thing I would try is add some lenth to the line going from the PCV to the catch can.. that should help, the added line lenth will give the oil air mixture more time to coola, and should help teh can catch more. Another thing you could try would be to take teh breather line going from teh valve cover to the TB, cap off the TB, and get a T fitting, and tie it into the line going to the catch can. I'm not 100% that will fix the issue either, but it could, I read somewhere that oil can get in thru that line too.. and seeing as how both essentially come and go from the same place, it shouldn't effect anything.
A small clear fuel filter, like one from a lawnmower or something in that line would also tell you if you are getting any oil in thru that line, so maybe that is worth a try, at least to see if you are having an issue there.
What kind of oil comsumption are you getting.. say over the course of 1000 miles, how much is hte car goign thru? How much is getting in the can, compared to how much are you losing?
Some consumption is normal.. maybe 1/2 quart in 3K.. that to me would seem acceptable.
A small clear fuel filter, like one from a lawnmower or something in that line would also tell you if you are getting any oil in thru that line, so maybe that is worth a try, at least to see if you are having an issue there.
What kind of oil comsumption are you getting.. say over the course of 1000 miles, how much is hte car goign thru? How much is getting in the can, compared to how much are you losing?
Some consumption is normal.. maybe 1/2 quart in 3K.. that to me would seem acceptable.
10-05-2005, 12:15 PM
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I have tried calling them, basically all the shops want to see the car in person which is understandable. Hell I wouldn't mind paying them a over the phone fee for advice at this point! We are talking about bus sized clouds out the back and the dipstick going from full to below the add line in about 400 miles, which I'm betting will be at least a quart.
I will try the extra line and clear filter. At full vacuum when the throttle blade is shut, is the pcv valve supposed to be closed or fully open?
I will try the extra line and clear filter. At full vacuum when the throttle blade is shut, is the pcv valve supposed to be closed or fully open?
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10-06-2005, 04:57 AM
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I do believe that the pcv should be open.. I think the onlyt ime that it is closed is when it sees some type of pressure to make the ball inside or whatever it is go in the other direction.
Another thought is to remove the PCV completely, and run a breather off both valve covers. That could possibly stop it too.. but if it's burning a quart every 400 miles, it sounds like either valve seals, or the rings are no good. Does it smoke on startup really bad? If so, then that's a sign of valve seals.
Did you replace the pistons, or just the rings? I wonder if there's a problem with the pistons/rings that were used for the rebuild. When the cyl wall's were cleaned up.. how much was removed? They did get oversize stuff to replace the internals with I hope.... not stock replacement size ( which would be too small... but at the point you are at, nothing is out of question )
Have you tried pulling all the plugs? Are they wet with oil, all of them, or just a select few? This might better point to where the problem could be coming from as well.
When the car originally started to smoke, what happened before that? Any possibility of any damage to the engine? Reason I ask is I wonder if whoever you had do the rebuild could have missed something. Obviously there's a problem... just wondering what caused it originally and made teh motor come apart in the first place.
Have faith! You are on ls1tech.. there's more knowledge here then any other website in te world when it comes to ls1 stuff.. just hav to have a b.s. filter on all the time. We'll help you get it figured out.
Another thought is to remove the PCV completely, and run a breather off both valve covers. That could possibly stop it too.. but if it's burning a quart every 400 miles, it sounds like either valve seals, or the rings are no good. Does it smoke on startup really bad? If so, then that's a sign of valve seals.
Did you replace the pistons, or just the rings? I wonder if there's a problem with the pistons/rings that were used for the rebuild. When the cyl wall's were cleaned up.. how much was removed? They did get oversize stuff to replace the internals with I hope.... not stock replacement size ( which would be too small... but at the point you are at, nothing is out of question )
Have you tried pulling all the plugs? Are they wet with oil, all of them, or just a select few? This might better point to where the problem could be coming from as well.
When the car originally started to smoke, what happened before that? Any possibility of any damage to the engine? Reason I ask is I wonder if whoever you had do the rebuild could have missed something. Obviously there's a problem... just wondering what caused it originally and made teh motor come apart in the first place.
Have faith! You are on ls1tech.. there's more knowledge here then any other website in te world when it comes to ls1 stuff.. just hav to have a b.s. filter on all the time. We'll help you get it figured out.
10-06-2005, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
I do believe that the pcv should be open.. I think the onlyt ime that it is closed is when it sees some type of pressure to make the ball inside or whatever it is go in the other direction.
Another thought is to remove the PCV completely, and run a breather off both valve covers. That could possibly stop it too.. but if it's burning a quart every 400 miles, it sounds like either valve seals, or the rings are no good. Does it smoke on startup really bad? If so, then that's a sign of valve seals.
Did you replace the pistons, or just the rings? I wonder if there's a problem with the pistons/rings that were used for the rebuild. When the cyl wall's were cleaned up.. how much was removed? They did get oversize stuff to replace the internals with I hope.... not stock replacement size ( which would be too small... but at the point you are at, nothing is out of question )
Have you tried pulling all the plugs? Are they wet with oil, all of them, or just a select few? This might better point to where the problem could be coming from as well.
When the car originally started to smoke, what happened before that? Any possibility of any damage to the engine? Reason I ask is I wonder if whoever you had do the rebuild could have missed something. Obviously there's a problem... just wondering what caused it originally and made teh motor come apart in the first place.
Have faith! You are on ls1tech.. there's more knowledge here then any other website in te world when it comes to ls1 stuff.. just hav to have a b.s. filter on all the time. We'll help you get it figured out.
Another thought is to remove the PCV completely, and run a breather off both valve covers. That could possibly stop it too.. but if it's burning a quart every 400 miles, it sounds like either valve seals, or the rings are no good. Does it smoke on startup really bad? If so, then that's a sign of valve seals.
Did you replace the pistons, or just the rings? I wonder if there's a problem with the pistons/rings that were used for the rebuild. When the cyl wall's were cleaned up.. how much was removed? They did get oversize stuff to replace the internals with I hope.... not stock replacement size ( which would be too small... but at the point you are at, nothing is out of question )
Have you tried pulling all the plugs? Are they wet with oil, all of them, or just a select few? This might better point to where the problem could be coming from as well.
When the car originally started to smoke, what happened before that? Any possibility of any damage to the engine? Reason I ask is I wonder if whoever you had do the rebuild could have missed something. Obviously there's a problem... just wondering what caused it originally and made teh motor come apart in the first place.
Have faith! You are on ls1tech.. there's more knowledge here then any other website in te world when it comes to ls1 stuff.. just hav to have a b.s. filter on all the time. We'll help you get it figured out.