LS1TECH - Camaro and Firebird Forum Discussion - Generation IV Internal Engine

Curious if anyone had Brake performance/Pedal feel issues after cam install?

Joe's 2SS — Fri, 22 May 2026 00:59:42 GMT

Hi,
Just curious if anyone had any issues with their Brakes performance , Pedal feel or anything after install. My car isn't finished yet but was just wondering. After my build is done I am hoping my brakes are the same as they were as the system worked perfectly performance and feel wise. BTR stage 3 PDS cam and LSA motor and Charger.
I run factory ZL1 Brakes.
__________________

Oil Bypass Barbell

RONIN LSX — Sun, 17 May 2026 15:19:58 GMT

Is there any point to getting a name brand over an OEM?

L99 Drift Rebuild � Need Bearing & Ring Clearance Advice From Experienced LS Builders

gt86lsx — Sun, 17 May 2026 14:24:37 GMT

Hey guys,

I have an aluminum 6.2L L99 engine that I�m currently rebuilding.

Planned upgrades/mods:
- DOD delete
- VVT delete
- Replacing piston rings
- New cam bearings
- Main bearings
- Rod bearings

I will be reusing the factory L99 pistons, factory rods, and stock crankshaft.

Parts I already have:
- Melling 10355HV oil pump
- TSP F35 Stage 4 cam kit

The car will mainly be used for drifting, and I do not plan to exceed 6800 RPM.

From your long-term experience with LS builds, I�d really appreciate your recommendations for the best clearances for this type of setup:

- Rod bearing clearance
- Main bearing clearance
- Cam bearing clearance
- Piston-to-wall clearance
- Top ring gap
- Second ring gap

Looking for a reliable setup that can handle drift abuse and high RPM without sacrificing longevity.

Thanks in advance.

Replacing My LS3 with an LSA Did I make the right choice?

Joe's 2SS — Sat, 16 May 2026 11:27:51 GMT

So I Swapping an LSA Ported SC onto my LS3 in a 5th Gen Camaro along with all of the supporting mods. To my surprise My very low mileage well taken care of LS3 failed a leak down test and has some binding while spinning the motor over. To save time I found a Brand New GM LSA. SO I bought it and going to use this motor. I have the full ZL1 accessory drive as well. I have a BTR Stage 3 PDS Torque Master Cam V1 sitting on my shelf that will be installed along with BTR springs push rods and CHE Trunnions. Will The Factory Lifters and Oil pump be safe to leave? Car is meant for street use.

Did I make a mistake going with the LSA over another LS3 or waiting to rebuild mine ( Rebuild time would probably put me mid summer )
I am assuming some where in the 700 RWHP Range with this combo.

BTR PDS Cam Torqemax V1
Kong Ported Blower/ZL1 Lid reinforced Brick
ZL1 FP and JMS Bap ID 1050X Injectors
NW 103
17/8 Headers,
Afco HX
Griptec 2.55 Upper Ati lower Not sure of final size yet.
Roto Fab Big Gulp
I will use the Correct Monster triple for the LSA,

Just wondering if I made the right choice choosing the LSA instead of another new LS3, Both Motors new are hard to find, But i Did find both LS3 was cheaper but not by that much.
Save
Reply

HELP. Excessive Oil Burn on LS3 416 stoker.

Ck304 — Fri, 15 May 2026 20:41:51 GMT

Hello, recently me and my father tore down my 2012 Camaro SS Ls3 and put a 416 stroker kit along with an aggressive cam in it. We�ve checked the valve guides, replaced the valve seals, placed a catch can on it, and completed a leakdown test with less than 5% on each cylinder. The car has maybe 30-45 miles on it. Blue smoke keeps puffing out on heavy deceleration and also just a small amount at idle. When looking with a borescope we can see oil sitting on top of the pistons looking like it is getting in from the valves. Not really sure what else there could be other than oil rings.

I need an opinion...

Not5oh — Thu, 07 May 2026 23:51:11 GMT

I own a 2016 Chevrolet Caprice PPV, 6L L77. I recently had a lifter failure on a AFM/DOD cylinder. Immediately turned the car off as I recognized the problem. Upon disassembly I found that the camshaft had not been destroyed. The lifter was not marred or damaged, no scoring or pieces missing. I cut the oil filter open found no forbidden glitter of any kind. I dropped the oil pan, also no glitter or debris of any kind. All push rods were good. No scoring or damage to the ends.
As I was cleaning up the motor to prepare for reassembly, specifically the tops of the Pistons and block deck, I noticed minor scoring on the bottom of the piston that corresponded to the bad lifter. I examined the head and found similar minor scoring on the cylinder head for that cylinder. See photos.

My question. As I have found no debris, I have no heavily damaged parts, No missing material from lifters, pushrods or spark plugs. What could have caused this damage? If something was in the cylinder, why did it leave such little damage? Why is the damage in a very specific spot on the piston and cylinder head? Wouldn't the debris have bounced all over the cylinder? Also, wouldn't an engine turning at 2500 RPM eat itself up if something had been in the cylinder? What am I missing?

Summit pro LS cam pushrod length?

brandon6.0 — Wed, 06 May 2026 20:31:49 GMT

I just rebuilt a gen4 5.3 for my son's truck. We used the Summit Racing� Pro LS Vortec Truck Swap Camshafts SUM-8728R1. Used there recommended .600 lift springs. Etc. Did a full dod delete everything needed etc. got down to measuring pushrod length and the crazy thing is im getting 7.400 length no preload with a checker.

We installed some 7.450 to try and it runs fine but is a lil noisy because from what we measured and preload etc comes out at .050" I normally run my ls7 lifters at .080-.100" But what's crazy to me is I've never had to go to a length like this. We have normally ran .7400 or 7.425 or shorter if milled heads etc.

This truck is totally stock with felpro gaskets and 243 heads. How come such a long pushrod length? With correct preload says we need 7.500 but I can't believe tht with this setup. Not the norm for me. Thoughts?

My nightmare engine build

Utinator — Wed, 06 May 2026 01:18:33 GMT

Well, the 418 is finally in the car. Now I just have to take half of it back out to replace the brand new lifters. :bang: I have been fighting this engine since December of 2024. First it was cam bearings. Then no oil pressure. Then stuck injectors. Then a broken spark plug while running on the engine dyno. A local shop just swapped the LS1 out for this 418. Now, it has a collapsed lifter on #1 exhaust valve. I swear this engine hates me. I tried to upgrade to reduced travel lifters, but I don�t think I can get the proper pre-load I�m thinking about switching back to stock/Delphi LS7 lifters. Those have always worked on the other engines I have built for other people. When I try to build something for myself I have nothing but problems. :pissed:

That MAF delete tho!👍

Mamo Motorsports 265 LS7 Small bore heads / Flow numbers

Tony @ Mamo Motorsports — Mon, 04 May 2026 03:30:20 GMT

Guys,

Due to a handful of folks asking about running my LS7 stuff on smaller bore engines I decided to create a version of my LS7 heads that will run on a bore as small as 4.030

So for you guys looking for a deep breathing 370, 376, 408 or 415/416 combination, these heads would work fantastic with only a 265 cc intake port (to keep the airspeed up) achieving intake flow in the 400 CFM range even when tested on a 4.030 bore!!

I reduced the size of the exhaust valve to 1.570 and retained the 2.205 size of my Stg 1 and Stg 2 large bore heads.

This is a picture of that 1.570 valve installed on a 4.065 bore.....it would be about .017 tighter to the wall on a 4.030 bore obviously)

I flow tested this head and simulated the shrouding of a 4.030 bore by using a mag base / dial indicator set up to measure and shift the head slightly over on the 4.065 bore I own (moving the head closer towards the wall on both intake and exhaust by .018 per side so the 4.065 bore would act like a 4.030 bore on the bench).

Here is a picture of that set-up showing the dial indicator to measure the position of the head on the left side of the casting

Here are the flow numbers on the smallest bore recommended (4.030)....a smaller 4" bore would not have an adequate safe distance between the wall and the edge of the exhaust valve.

LIFT......INT......EXH (with header like flow tube pictured above)

.100........73........60
.200......159......121
.300......236......179
.400......297......225
.500......335......243
.600......370......255
.650......382......260
.700......392......264
.800......404......269

You have to keep in mind most larger port / larger valve heads are tested on 4.125 - 4.155 bore fixtures.

These are real world numbers on a much smaller 4.030 bore where a portion of flow entering or exiting the valve is obstructed by the wall of the cylinder

Larger bores always increase airflow. I will update this thread with 4.065 LS3 bore numbers if any of you are interested and would consider a set of these for a project like that (would make for a really stout 416 build!)

I don't expect a big change in the overall numbers but the numbers would be a touch better on the larger 4.065 bore Im sure

Cheers,
Tony

Cleaning lifters

tundrawolf — Sun, 03 May 2026 02:09:31 GMT

I am on a budget

2000 6l LS out of a Silverado.

"Poor man's rebuild" (new bearings, timing set, oil pump re using pistons. Everything looks good inside, but dirty.)

Taking apart the lifter, the snap ring is easy to remove with no pressure applied, a cap and a spacer come out, but while I can press down on the plunger inside, I cannot pull it out. It seems attached to the spring going both ways?

It relatively easily compresses a short distance, but pulling it out it seems to be under spring (vacuum?) load.

Also, is it possible to tap out the pin holding the roller and it's needle bearings in? Or, is it pressed in (don't bother.)

I had to move, so finds are very tight, so no comments of. "Just buy new ones"

I have to work with what I got (get it as good as possible. The engine runs and has good compression. Will hone the cylinders but cannot afford a full rebuild, yet.)

If I have to pull the caps off each, noting where each lifter (already labeled them per cylinder and intake/exhaust, and orientation as removed.) and shim is, and just toss them in heated ultrasonic cleaner for a while I'll do that.

Thanks!