Radiator Fitment

madmike90 — Tue, 19 May 2026 23:09:09 GMT

Afternoon guys,

Just want to get some thoughts on this radiator fitment. The radiator I have has the outlets on the passenger side and the lower barb interferes with the intercooler pipe coming down from the turbo. I can�t move the pipe because then there will be fitment issues with the frame. I can�t reweld the inlet/outlet to the driver side because the end tank on that side is too small. I�d like to run this radiator if possible as I�ve set it up with a good shroud and dual fans already and there are limited choices for driver side inlet/outlet radiators as it is. My only real option, if sticking with this radiator, is to run it slightly offset towards the driver side.

my question is, how much of an issue would it be that the intercooler end tank blocks a small section of the radiator core and the radiator end tank blocks a small section of the intercooler core? I can�t offset the intercooler with it because the intercooler fits within the tubular front end and is a tight fit as it is.

I appreciate any input you guys have, and if you have questions or are curious about the build, ask away.

thanks!

Cubic inch update

rpturbo — Sat, 16 May 2026 07:18:31 GMT

I am not very active on here anymore, but for those of you who know me, or don't I wanted to update you.
This particular car, I have tuned on for a few years now. The combination is, or was a SBE LC9 5.3 with stock 799 heads, BTR .660 springs and a BTR PDS stage 4 blower can in it, with a stock lower truck pulley and a 2.35 upper, 2660# 4L80 2600 Yank PDS converter, 9" 3:90.1 rear. Car went a best of 9.23 @ 146 mph at 21# of boost on E.
Over the winter, we built a Summit 402 crank/rods/pistons, stock aluminum 6.0 from a G8, ported rec port heads from Wilkes performance.
I pulled the same tune from last year's best, pulled 5* from 5# up. First pass with a garbage fuel tune it carried the front tires over the wall before the owner got out of it, went 1.35 on the rear tires.
Second pass I pulled timing on the launch, and it went 9.35 on 11# of boost. It lost 10# of boost, less timing, went basically its best 60' on the rear tires. Can't wait to get it dialed in this year!

FI Tech engine management system.......anyone use it?

BigBoyWS6 — Tue, 12 May 2026 19:05:32 GMT

For an F1-A-94 or a T6 single turbo.

Just curious if this is a good ECU option..........

Ultimate LS Archives - FiTech Fuel Injection

�Let�s do two, so it�s symmetrical!� - Huron Speed TT Fbody Build LONG READ

Rawr256 — Wed, 06 May 2026 20:51:55 GMT

In typing this up, I got word of the tragic passing of Kyle Loftis. I never got the opportunity to meet the guy but through videos could tell he was a genuine guy. It would be hard to talk to anyone in today’s modern car community that hasn’t heard of 1320video and the impact one guy and eventually his crew has had on an entire community. Without some of his videos, I wouldn’t have gotten the itch to get into cars and modify them to be fun and know them intimately. Goes without saying from everyone in the car community, he will be missed and I wish his family and 1320video family all the best through this tragic time.

So, for the past decade, I’ve had the On3 AC retaining kit on my wife’s Trans Am that has been driven regularly through the summer on the SBE LS1 for about 8 years and then on a SBE L76 (LS2 block, LS3 top half) for about 2 years. First half of the decade, I had full exhaust on the car and a cutout for extra fun/noise which after clearance issues between Fbody floor pan being low/flat as is and speed bumps, I just turned to a single dump behind the driver side.

Pic of the car as it was just over a year ago –

On the SBE LS1 I had managed 748RWHP @ 12 lbs of boost before I eventually had blowby issues I suspect from a few… oops moments with boost creep and not paying attention the gauge. Hey, things move fast at those speeds! It did have nearly 200k miles on it and had seen multiple runs into the 7k RPM range when NA, and a good handful of times pushing nearly 20psi when looking back on logs, so the motor was tired.

Being in-part lazy/unknowledgeable on building a bottom end, I opted to just pick up a complete setup and found a localish yard that that had a G8 dropout that would give me spare accessory parts for my G8 (damn unicorn cars) and a newer Gen 4 bottom end that should be robust for the abuse I had been giving the car regularly. So out came the LS1 and stuffed into a corner of the shop to be redone later and in went the L76 setup. I used the entire top half updating to LS3 heads/intake/tb knowing it was free breathing and did a Lingenfelter conversion that was surprisingly simple/nice easy to do to make the stock ECU work and gauges. We drove with this for a couple of years and regularly considered throwing it on the rollers me and some buddy’s have but always was hesitant because with the bigger everything and healthier motor came an issue I had subtly been fighting, boost creep, and it was back with a vengeance…

With the old LS1 setup, especially near the end, I wouldn’t fight any boost creep up until the top of 4th gear, maybe a little in third. With the new motor, I would get signs of it at the top of second amazingly, and all through third and beyond. I think the record was 16psi before I just told myself I would limit it at that point, in part because that is well into arrest me speeds!

Wanting to use the full speedometer we bought the car with, I started looking for ways to combat the boost creep. The method of the wastegate being mounted wasn’t the best on the On3, especially with dumped exhaust and I had considered reworking it. Looked under the hood with a buddy that does excellent fabwork and at the same time, were little things I found annoying with the kit, most specifically the alternator being the first thing to greet you when you pop the hood, and no matter how many times I cleaned it, looked filthy. I started looking at Huron Speeds setup like I did a decade ago when I got the turbo from Jon that I used on the On3 kit and reached out to him about what they had for keeping the AC and boost creep concerns.

Jon was great to communicate with and shared with me that they haven’t heard of boost creep concerns with their waste gate setup that was redone on the newer versions and at the same time it moved the alternator back to the stock location and kept everything in the stock locations. At some point I had jokingly mentioned having a stood up radiator from some sort of oops with the old stock radiator and opting to go that way and been lazy to put in a condenser, but maybe I should consider the twins! He replied back saying hey, you got the stood up radiator already, go for it! Then reassured the AC setup was nice and then shared about the fbody black Friday sales to happen.

Later in the day, wife came home from work and she knew I was looking for ways to deal with stuff. I shared with her the communication with John and the conversation went something long the lines of this –

Me – “We can do this new setup and I could hook back up the AC and make some lines for it and have tons of room in front of the engine still. Can make it easily work with what we have already, or we could just ditch the AC and go twins since the radiator is stood up!” with a chuckle.

Wife - “Let’s do two, so it’s symmetrical!”

Me – “Ya! That would be neat! So anyway, will wait to put a deposit down for the AC setup until black Friday in a few weeks and…”

Wife – “You mean for the twin setup right?”

Me – “What?”

Wife – “You are going to do the deposit for the twin turbo setup right?”

Me – “Are you… serious?”

Wife – “Ya, I want two under the hood, I don’t drive the car much during summer when it’s hot anyway and it would look cool when you pop the hood!”

Me – “You’re really serious?”

Wife – “It would look symmetrical! One is neat, but two is cooler!”

Me – “… Ok… I’m not complaining, I offered that as a joke…”

Wife – “Do they not make it then?”

I start to load up Huron’s website and go to the twins page for fbody

Me – “No its real, just stuff is going to be tight. I could make it work for sure, may have to move some stuff around is all.”

Wife – “well lets do that then, especially if he is giving us so much free stuff on Black Friday!”

So, conversation went a really different direction than I had thought… In the back of my mind I just remember the old stories on LS1tech of people talking about single vs twins and the most common comment of “unless seeking huge power, you are just doubling your cost of everything.” Ok, well some of the double cost was covered, so guess will go that way with things…

At this same time, I took the time to look at what else the car would need. I had been tuning it and fighting with dumb stuff regularly, chasing my tail on it smells at an idle, now it cruises too lean, now it bucks too much and always making progress one way in the tune and then fighting with something else popping up as a result. Slowly making progress in dialing it in but was getting old and I just didn’t have the patience anymore for it. I had dug around and found that people have piggy backed the stock ECU with Holley Terminator and started to that direction. I reached out to Current Wire Performance and got a harness from them to integrate the two systems together and during black Friday ordered up a Holley setup.

Now I remember when I took off the clutch when switching engines, it was worn and figured it maybe had another year or two of life with it. I did a bunch of reading and talking with buddies and everyone swore by the Monster Triple Disc. Truth be told, I threw in a Stage 2 single almost 13 years ago and almost immediately it had a rattle. When I first put on the turbo the disc fused itself to the pressure plate in my first couple of outings and went Mcleod RXT because going from memory when talking with someone at Monster they had said I installed it wrong. I understand people get things wrong and them being a business see it all the time, but I remember it left a sour taste in my mouth, and I always scoffed at buddies putting them in their car. I eventually swallowed my pride and ordered up their triple disc setup. With the price of it and praise for it, I had a pretty high expectation it better be damn near perfect. I was surprised to open it and see a new slave, but in talking it through with a buddy, they obviously had to make their own proprietary setup for the extra distance with the triple since they couldn’t use a stock slave.

Stuff started arriving and as it arrived, we would stack things in the car while we had it tucked away for winter. Eventually I had everything but the turbo setup. Jon was great about communication with everyone on ETA and eventually I had enough sitting in the car I decided I just wanted to put stuff on, would enjoy the car for the summer and then put the twin setup on during winter maybe. I started with opening up the Current Wire Performance harness and Holley harness and piecing together in my mind how things would go and be laid out over the car.

I dropped the engine out of the car and pulled off the stock harness. I had already trimmed a lot of it due to sensors I no longer needed and to clean up stuff under the hood. Always was a pain too when looking at a sensor and trying to remember where it went even after the amount of times I have been around this car.

Aluminum exhaust on turbo car?

4EyedTurd1 — Mon, 27 Apr 2026 19:26:57 GMT

Looking to shed weight and the mild steel 3� exhaust that runs out to the front of the back tire seems like a place to start. I found some discussion on this on other forums and some use stainless for the downpipe while some say 11g aluminum all the way. This is a street car on pump gas

Vacuum manifold block placement

Abelardoo_12 — Sat, 25 Apr 2026 17:56:38 GMT

Posted this in the corvette forum but maybe I�ll get more responses here,
I�m currently in the process of changing some things in my c6 that include installing a holley low ram and an ecs 2200x blower. The intake has 3 ports on the back for the IAT, brake booster and map sensor. I need to use a port for the catch can and also a source for all the other things that need vacuum signal like the 2 bov�s, fuel regulator and hobbs switch for the pumps which will be coming from a vacuum manifold. There�s three possible ways I can think of,

1. Tap the map port to connect the catch can by itself. And T off the brake booster line for the vacuum manifold for all the other things including the map sensor via remote mount. Can the brake booster line hold that much things coming off of it? Or would it affect the vacuum going to the brake booster and decrease its effectiveness?

2. Tap the map port for a dedicated line for the vacuum manifold. Put a T on the intake manifold for the brake booster and the catch can. Im not sure if the catch can can be connected to the same spot as the brake booster or if the catch can needs its own port by itself.

3. Tap the map port for the catch can, leave the brake booster alone, and drill and tap a new hole for the vacuum manifold alone. This being the ideal option but not sure if drilling another hole would be possible.

Anyone have any advice?