LS1TECH - Camaro and Firebird Forum Discussion

2000 silverado Holley terminator integration

brandon6.0 — Thu, 18 Jun 2026 22:58:32 GMT

On my 00 silverado we just installed Holley. I was originally gonna integrate the original OEM harness into the Holley. But Imma run a Holley dash since I have one and just do away with the OEM stuff. Pretty straight forward and simple to do. Only issue is trying to get the starter circuit to work. I can do a simple push button start if need be. would rather have it off the key. I seen a video about the "crank" fuse being hot while starting only inside the interior fuse box. Thought about running a relay and using tht fuse as ignition. Has anyone done anything similar?

I will know tom if tht fuse will stay hot while cranking. Figured it should be. Only stuff we removed was the ECU and harness. Will this relay also need a large fuse similar to what the OEM had? Or a simple 10 amp on the relay ignition side suffice?

AOPEC LS Starter 150107

05CTSV — Thu, 18 Jun 2026 22:09:10 GMT

Good working condition. Asking $60, buyer pays shipping

Power Master 9009 LS Starter

05CTSV — Thu, 18 Jun 2026 22:07:14 GMT

Power Master 9009 LS starter. Used in good working condition. Asking $120, buyer pays shipping

Motion Raceworks Catch Can

05CTSV — Thu, 18 Jun 2026 22:04:49 GMT

Used Motion Raceworks top loader catch can, dual -10AN port. Asking $100, buyer pays shipping.

PAC-1207X w/Titanium retainers

05CTSV — Thu, 18 Jun 2026 21:33:32 GMT

Have a set of used PAC1207X .700 lift springs for LS cylinder heads. Includes titanium retainers, spring seats, and retainers. Spring seats are for aftermarket bronze guides .565. Asking $250, buyer pays shipping.

LS1 copper in oil

camaross0103 — Thu, 18 Jun 2026 20:19:59 GMT

It looks like copper is a little high on the oil analysis but they said it is still normal and that it isn't from bearings because you would see high led first. Is this normal for LS1 engines?

Coolant temp sending unit

crewdog19135 — Thu, 18 Jun 2026 20:03:41 GMT

I recently got a new coolant temp sending unit from a local parts store. Once the engine starts about 5 seconds in the temp gauge pegs out. Figured bad unit, swapped it with another new one�same issue. No, I�m not trying to hook the CTS there. Pins are different anyway. Put the old one (OE I�m assuming) back in and works fine. Probably asking why I�m changing a �good� part. Car had massive overheating issues when I got it so I�m replacing the entire system. Thats why

Uncommon 2000 Trans Am 'Vert on Hemmings

NC01TA — Thu, 18 Jun 2026 20:02:51 GMT

Probably priced a bit high with over 33,000 miles but I'll keep watching to see how it does. 6 speed convertibles are NOT common though, that's for sure, especially red with a taupe top.
https://www.hemmings.com/listing/200...s%20Newsletter

New Holley EFI Engine Harnesses

C409 — Thu, 18 Jun 2026 12:48:25 GMT

I have 2 New Holley Engine Control Harnesses for HP or Dominator ECU's ... $300 each shipped to the lower 48

The 1st is Holley Part # 558-104 ... This is a universal MPFI harness 271R960A

The 2nd is Holley Part # 558-414 ... This is a Kit harness from a Terminator 4bbl TBI Unit 271R1041A

To those of you that are not terrified by wiring, ALL of Holley's Harnesses are essentially universal. What makes them different is the length of, type of, and positioning of sensor connectors with regard to their positions and styles on the engine that they are intended for. ALL of Holley's harnesses begin at P1A & P2A ECU connectors. Sensor connector pigtails can be purchased to accommodate any engine combo to any harness.

Looking for suggestions on tune

Lbz997 — Thu, 18 Jun 2026 02:22:38 GMT

Hi, all, this is my first post. I have a 5.3 lm7 swapped into a 1988 chevy k1500 with a mild cam and long tube headers. I believe the exhaust is restrictive but I will be addressing that soon. Attached is a data log from a short drive, please post any suggestions as I'm new to tuning.

Attached Files

dl2FT.hpl (76.0 KB)

Cleaning/rebuilding an engine on a budget, in an adverse environment

tundrawolf — Wed, 17 Jun 2026 16:50:28 GMT

Hi,

I am in a limited situation, with a very limited budget.

I have mic'd out the cam and crankshaft and they are within spec, and have purchased the lower end bearings and cam bearings .

I have fabricated a cam tool (used my lathe and an old cam I cut.) to align them.

I had to move, and no longer have a shop or garage.

I am building a large live-in van. Presently am living with a friend.

I have rebuilt engines, but it was in a relatively enclosed environment.

Now I am basically re assembling this engine in a backyard (in the back of a van I've extended with a gap between the covered utility bed and van cab.)

The engine block is slightly rusty in the cylinders, and has been exposed to outside dust for some time.

The components (lifters, rockers, pistons, rings...) are being cleaned for re-use.

I am on a budget. I have to re use the parts. The engine was dirty but wear was very minimal. (Engine out of a 2000 Silverado, 6l)

Van is going to be live-in so the more reliable the better. However cannot afford "new" parts, so have to make-do with what I have.

Compression readings were all good.

Have new timing set, seals, oil pump, etc.

My question is, as I take the components apart and clean them, how do I keep them dust free or as clean as possible...

How do I prevent them from rusting

How do I clean the block inside/out (I've removed the freeze plug for the oil gallery) and keep it clean enough to re assemble? I assume wd40 and a hone to clear out the rust, but what about the rest of the block...

The last thing I need or want is dust scratching up the bearings and getting sucked up into the oil pump, but I am not dealing with a clean environment.

(I have a plan before starting the motor to pump oil in using a fitting at the oil pump housing to pre-lube the entire system for a while before rotating it, as well as using assembly lube.)

I am having to do the best I can with what I have.

Rust proofing, keeping components dust and rust free while re assembling,

I already noted where each component went and it's orientation per cylinder, even pushrods

Is there positive advice for this? Has anyone had to do this type of thing?

Even though I live in California, it seems like I am having to assemble this engine like the Indian people on YouTube do (safety sandals)

But it's my only option.

Helpful advice appreciated

10 Reasons Daily Driving a Swap Project SUCKS! (& 1 Reason to Do It Anyway)

MPalmer — Wed, 17 Jun 2026 16:38:24 GMT

From the front-page -- https://ls1tech.com/how-tos/slidesho...anyway-1008075

It's been four years and almost 10,000 miles since we put an LS3 E-ROD Connect & Cruise system in a 1992 Buick Roadmaster. For those who didn't see it back in 2022, here's the full build thread. At the moment, it's my only car when I'm not reviewing new vehicles as an automotive journalist. So not technically a full daily driver. But the experience has made me think about taking a project or weekend toy and using it as a daily driver, and the problems you can experience along the way. Thus, the front-page article linked above.

What about you? Have you ever daily-driven a swap project? What did you experience & learn along the way?

And please share your builds -- photos/threads -- I'd love to see more of what everyone's doing.

Cheers!

Engine stand question

AZSkylark — Wed, 17 Jun 2026 14:11:09 GMT

Well, after risking my LM7 nose-diving, I need to get a new engine stand. I got a cheapo to begin with and need to replace it.
Can anyone recommend a decent one that won't break the bank? I like using Amazon, but of course, ultimately want to avoid something made out of Chineseium.
I know you can't have it both ways, but, hey... could certainly compromise most times.
eBay is another alternative, then again...
Any sane recommendations?
Thank you in advance

1988 c1500 swap computer

frige — Wed, 17 Jun 2026 13:47:56 GMT

Where is the best place to get a dbw computer? I see them on ebay for $199, But I have been ripped off on Ebay a couple of times.

Procharger D1SC loud squeal & low boost

mhinchley — Wed, 17 Jun 2026 09:04:01 GMT

02 CETA. Have a fully built forged motor, LS1, 38k miles on car. Bought from original owner 3 years ago. Pro built on Long Island by a shop that since closed.
D1SC has had a high squeal at constant RPM above 25mph or so. Put under heavy load or no load, seems to vanish. Have a 3.55 pulley on & only seeing 7psi max & blower is slightly overspun on occasion then.
I pulled the old manual tensioner plate, put on whole new set up from ProCharger with spring tensioner, including all pullies, still have both problems. When blower belt is off, went away. I removed head & changed oil. Was a bit low. Maybe 4oz vs needed 6, but I found no shavings in oil or on drain plug. Put in new oil, same 2 issues. Belts are all new too. Have the green belt on blower. No obvious play in the blower shaft. Spin by hand, no noise. Quite perplexed by both issues. No pulley interference either. Double checked & lowered sway bar 1". Also replaced original bov to Procharger Big Red.
I am perplexed. Also went & checked all hoses & pipes with intercooler & all tight. Did a leak test with my compressor & no noticeable leaks. I installed new boost gage but same readings. That & I know what boost feels like. Certainly the 7lb reading is correct.
https://youtube.com/shorts/KOQQ1XPusQY?is=5jROUkHpJySZabUp