LT1 Trash

So i've just decided that i'm going to go the turbo route instead of nitrous and plan on getting a custom kit made here in south florida.

My car has a stock internal LS1 with 37k miles on it and runs very hard for what i have done.

Heres what i want to do.

Looking to make 550whp on pump with a nice T76 single turbo setup and a good tune.

would 10psi reach 550-575whp and would that be "pushing it" if the car has a good tune with enough fuel and timing pulled? also, around what rpm would the car make full boost by with a T76 on a stock motor?

I currently have TSP true duals. would i be able to run a Y-pipe into the duals when i go turbo? or would it be better to run a single 3" exhaust and dump it?

LT1 Trash

anyone?

Gauge

iTrader: (3)

I read a lot of threads where people say that 8psi is about the max on a stock shortblock. Anything over that is supposed to be pushing it. Of course, you'll get some responses where people say with a dead nuts tune you're fine at 10psi... but the general consensus agreed upon by the majority is 8psi. That's with a Procharger, anyway. A turbo might not be as forgiving since the charge is liable to be hotter.

hellbents10

iTrader: (10)

Charge could be cooler if the correct unit is picked for the setup. That being said its all about the tune and FUEL. Get a bad load of 92 and its game over. There is to many consistencies in fuel at the pump to put something on the edge of detonation. You can make 600+whp on pump and it will live if the tune is dead on, you always get good fuel and you never have a hiccup from any part of the fuel system.

TTSSZ

iTrader: (8)

Keep it at 8lbs or so. (Boost is relative to how good your motor breathes)
With good heads and a mild cam 550rwhp should come easy.
(Don’t go over 600rwhp)

Run with an intercooler.

Have it tuned to run a tad rich.

Run cooler plugs.

Have good fuel and oil pressure gauges

Always run it a few extra minutes (2 -3) to cool down the turbo before shutting down. (Mostly after you have been beating on it.) The turbo will drop 100deg. per min. at idle as I recall.

For street use the motor will last a long time. There is not allot of streets you can push it to the limit for more then 10 to 15 seconds at a time.
(15 seconds at 550rwhp and you will probably be doing at least 160mph or better)

Somebody should be able to tell you when full boost will come on with the t76, I have smaller twins, they come on full by 3 grand. On the street a little lag is good, when it hits to hard you just blow the tires off and spend most of your time pedeling through first second and third. But dam if it aint fun.

I have about 20k on my stock bottom end at around 575rwhp.
(and I love telling the tree huggers it can still get 24mph hwy)

LT1 Trash

thanks. i plan on having it tuned with a nice a/f, some tr6's and enough timing pulled to help longetivity..heads/cam will probably be just a few months down the road after i turbo the car. if i keep redline stock for now is 550whp safe stock internally?

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

You're duals, headers, and lid will be gone. So if you look at the positive, you can sell those and put some money in your pocket towards the build. Thats what I did.

I'm waiting for my hp tuners to come back from my upgrade to get mine tuned. I have the ebay kit, everything is on just waiting to be tuned. I have a front mount with a GT-70. There are many people running over 550rwhp with stock internals, how long they last is another story. I'll be telling that story when mine goes

LT1 Trash

how much did your ebay kit run you after everything? i've checking out some ebay build threads and thought about possibly goign that route if i can save quite a bit of money.

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

with a new hood, probably a tad over 3000, minus the money that got from selling quite a few things.

pwrtrip75

iTrader: (8)

You could swap a set of 6.0L heads on it to drop the compression some and make it a little safer.

As in how the parts hold up? My stock 5.3 has held 15psi and a 50 shot of spray for 3 years and was out of a junk yard..still going strong. As long as its tuned right you wont have an issue.

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

Local guy ran 5psi on his base sts kit bone stock engine with just 42 injectors and stock fuel pump for last several years. He is tuned conservatively.

I have personally seen two dead FI cars that blew ,one around 8psi and the other overboosted by quite a bit over 8psi briefly but the damage was done.

Stock engines have strong cranks,decent rods. Weak areas are the rod bolts and the pistons. Any screw up and the pistons will lose the ringlands.

I would throw some 6.0 heads to drop compression if you insist on trying to go to 10psi. Or stick to 8psi and don't get greedy. You could also run alc injection for extra safety against pump gas.

Some guys do push the stock engines for a long time and pretty hard. Some blow it up almost right away. At the least as said if you do pull the engine do rod bolts and forged pistons.

Also its not how much boost that makes the power its how much flow the turbo gets at x pounds of boost. A bigger turbo can make as much power at 8psi as a smaller one at 12psi. Thats why turbos are rated in airflow like pounds per minute. Airflow roughly translates to engine power times 10 and this is roughly max power capable from the turbo. So a 50 pound per minute turbo can do about 500 engine hp max.
Of course go too big and turbo and you get late spool and narrow powerband. Go smaller and you get quicker spool and broader powerband but too small you will trade off some top end power .Factory frequently undersizes turbo to gain more streetable power bands.

Again key with bone stock engine is don't get greedy unless you are prepared to do the engine if it goes. And sometimes when the engine goes it takes out the turbo as well.

Even 500 rwhp is pretty decent .Heck 400 rwhp is pretty decent.

fenix999

iTrader: (17)

check your email

TTSSZ

iTrader: (8)

I did put 6.0's on mine; stage 2 cartek heads.

If I could do it again, (and I think this is what you should do), I would have done the shortblock and not the heads and cam.
I dont know what I was thinking. It was about the same cost at the time because the engine was out anyway for the turbo install.

with the stock heads and cam with the built shortblock I could have just run full boost and made twice the power.

I thought at the time I was going to do the shortblock within the year.
It just ran so good and made plenty of power so I put it off. Now I'm doing up my other ride so the shortblock got shelved for know.