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iTrader: (3)

Hey all,

I recently finished up my D1-SC build on my forged 346. The car makes great power (650RWHP) and seems to run just fine. However, the car absolutely reeks of nasty hot oil and just noxious fumes when it's running. It's almost unbarable to ride in the car with the windows up. Now, I'm a pretty logical person, but I don't even know where to start because there's several ways to attack this that I can think of. I just don't have the knowledge to figure out where to go with this. Let me give you some information here... symptoms, history, etc.

First, the engine is not 100%. I rebuilt this engine myself a couple years ago. It was my first engine rebuild. I pulled the engine before the Procharger went on, took the heads off, and looked in the cylinders. I found that the rings are not sealing and there are some problems. Here is a pic of one of the cylinders. They all look like this. Here is a thread about it from the Gen III Internal Engine forum. Due to financial constraints, I decided to just slap the heads back on and drive it 'til it gave up the ghost. I figure this may have something to do with my issue.

Second, the rear main seal is jacked. When I took the car to the dyno the first time, I hadn't taken the PCV system off (doh!). So, when the car made 13psi that first pull, the rear main dropped several ounces of oil on the ground. It even blew the dipstick out. I know it's still leaking because the bottom of the oil pan is just slimed with oil. I've wiped it off, but it just comes right back. I haven't replaced the rear main because I just don't have the energy to pull the transmission again yet. I know it needs to be done.

Third, the PCV system is... well, incomplete. We took the lines from the valve covers and just ran them up to the front of the engine and pointed them down. They're still vented to atmosphere. I have a breather cap on the oil fill neck, and it's pretty saturated with oil itself. I have a catch can with a breather on the top (link). I haven't made room for it in the engine bay (may need to do a battery relocation), so I haven't yet installed that.

Fourth, there's white smoke coming out of the oil filler neck if I take off the filter. I don't know if this is normal when you don't have anything pulling a vacuum on the crank case or if this is a result of the rings not sealing.



So, given all this information, I'm not sure what my method of attack is. Is this just normal when you delete the PCV system? If so, is a vacuum pump the solution I need? Am I just smelling the hot oil on the bottom of the oil pan? I doubt it, but I guess anything possible. It certainly smells more noxious than just oil to me. Another question is this... when I get the catch can installed and hooked to the PCV lines, then will I still need the breather on the oil fill neck?

Ugh... so many questions... I don't know where to go first. Help!

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

I had a similar problem. I got rid of the breather on the oil fill, and ran one line from each valve cover to a breather tank. I then added a metal brillo type pad that is much more porous without the cleaner in it and stuffed it in the top for another path for the oil vapors to travel through. I haven't had any oil mist in my engine bay. I know the smell your talking about and it doesn't seem to want to go away yet, its probably from being soaked over the short time of running it with just breathers.

IF you decide to install the PCV lines, I'd assume you're blow by would saturate where ever the lines have been ran. I asked tons of questions about PCV line routing and if you look at post 70, you'll find all the diagrams: https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ting-ok-4.html

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iTrader: (3)

Thanks, Camarod. I never realized that people used check valves on this stuff. I don't see any reason not to throw the PCV system back on there as it was with a check valve added to it. It always chewed up oil before, and I never really had a problem with that. I could add a catchcan to deal with it, but that's not too important to me. I just want this God-forsaken smell out of my car.

Maybe a new rear main, regular catch can (without a breather) and check valve would be my solution.


EDIT: Wait a minute... based on the description of the way a PCV valve works in that thread you linked... shouldn't the boost have been kept out of the crank case? Or, is the valve not stout enough to prevent that from happening? It shows that under boost (or backfire) the valve should be closed... much like a check valve.

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

You are right, that's why there is a routing for the boosted applications. When you have the clean side of the pcv system routed to the inlet after the airfilter, when in boost and even when not in boost, there is a vacuum that doesn't allow the crankcase to be pressurized. If you are going to add the catch can, I wouldn't have a breather anywhere in the system.

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iTrader: (3)

Sooo... new question...

My current setup has the clean side still connected to the TB. Both the dirty sides are vented to atmo for now. There is a breather on the oil fill neck. Now, I am starting to believe based on what 98Camarod told me on the phone that the boost wasn't going through the PCV valve on the dirty side, because it should be closed under boost. I'm believing instead that the boost went through the clean side.

However, if that's the case, then boost should still be going through the clean side (since it's still hooked up like stock) into the crank case, and then out through the breather and dirty sides. If this is the case, why does my D1SC make 14psi like a clockwork?

Those diagrams clearly showed that on a turbo setup, the clean side should be re-routed to the intake of the turbo so it doesn't see boost. The dirty side should have a check valve (although, the PCV valve should serve a similar purpose).

Am I misunderstanding something?

Johnv

yes, block the throttle body breather port or you will pressurise the crankcase as soon as you get into boost.

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iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the response, but this is really want I'm looking to figure out.

Johnv

it's not a huge breather port so will not bleed of to much boost, but you may well pick up some with it plugged.

but if left connected it will be enough to pressurise the crankase causing dip stick to blow out, or pop crank seals and cause oil leaks not to mention doing nothing to help piston ring seal. you ideally want the crankase pvc under vaccume at idle and criuse and enough ventilation to prevent crancase pressure build up under boost.