Best Fitting Aluminum Radiator with A/C and D1SC
03-23-2009, 08:42 PM
#1
Best Fitting Aluminum Radiator with A/C and D1SC Anyone install an aftermarket radiator in a Procharged Camaro while maintaining the factory A/C condenser location with original ATI fan shroud plus 9" Spal fan and the plastic Procharger intake hat? Application is a D1SC, and the plastic intake hat is already on the shroud.
Curious how the thicker aluminum radiators fit with the minimal clearance between everything. Interested in what modifying was necessary for fit and what radiator fits the best......Howe, Be Cool, Ron Davis, etc.
Curious how the thicker aluminum radiators fit with the minimal clearance between everything. Interested in what modifying was necessary for fit and what radiator fits the best......Howe, Be Cool, Ron Davis, etc.
03-25-2009, 12:01 PM
#5
Thanks, I guess you are one of the few, you mentioned it got up to 230 ish still after extended idling, made me a little weary about the Howe, when I called them they mentioned it was sufficient with surface area and fins per inch for a 450HP application. Althoug it is better than stock, if I am going through with it all, I want to do it only once and be good with the A/C blowing.
I didn't know if the Ron Davis was much bigger and if it 'dropped in' or not with all the Procharger stuff. They rate it at over 700HP cooling capacity, but is twice the money.
I would love to see your pics!
thanks!
I didn't know if the Ron Davis was much bigger and if it 'dropped in' or not with all the Procharger stuff. They rate it at over 700HP cooling capacity, but is twice the money.
I would love to see your pics!
thanks!
03-25-2009, 12:08 PM
#6
i don't have any pics of it, but I have a Ron Davis........I had a d1sc with the spal 9'' fan I didn't have any problems with it except I had to trim the rad hold down a little, but that was no prob.
It had clearance with the plastic hat............I even had a solid pipe instead of the flex pipe, plus I had one of the bigger filters on it..................it all fit in there with the Ron Davis.......a tight fit, but it fit
It had clearance with the plastic hat............I even had a solid pipe instead of the flex pipe, plus I had one of the bigger filters on it..................it all fit in there with the Ron Davis.......a tight fit, but it fit
03-25-2009, 03:47 PM
#7
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im running an lt1 radiator with ls1 endcaps. thicker than stock (1.2 inches vs. .89 inches if i recall correctly), and cheaper than aftermarket.
food for thought, when i had a stalled 4l60e, i couldnt run a/c for any length of time before it got too hot. i switched to a m6 and the highest ive seen is 210. you might want to think about bypassing the tranny cooler thats in the radiator.
food for thought, when i had a stalled 4l60e, i couldnt run a/c for any length of time before it got too hot. i switched to a m6 and the highest ive seen is 210. you might want to think about bypassing the tranny cooler thats in the radiator.
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03-25-2009, 04:17 PM
#8
Check how much room you have right now between the procharger hat the fan. Then see if the extra thickness of the aftermarket radiator would be ok. I think if you are still using the procharger inlet hat there should be plenty of space. Its when you start using aftermarket 4" hats that the clearance issues arrise.
03-26-2009, 12:23 AM
#9
BeCool with ATI D1SC with stock ATI plastic hat installed in 1998 Z28 Camaro with stock water pump and AC.
I could not get the BeCool to fit with the electric Meziere water pump. There is not enough room for radiator crossover hose due to the long nose on the ewp so I had to remove the ewp and replace with a stock pump.
Am running a single Spal Exreme 16 inch fan replacing the ATI 16 inch.
You will end up with minimum clearance between the ATI intake hat and the ATI fan shroud. You end up having to cut off the lower fan shroud hanger bracket on the driver side of the BeCool radiator as well as the 1/2 inch lip on the bottom of the ATI fan shroud. Doing this means you need to make some brackets to hold the fan shroud in place since the bracket hanger is removed allowing it to shift if an additional bracket isn't installed to hold it in place. The hanger bracket removal is required because there is not enough clearance due to the plastic inlet hat on the blower.
There is a pin on the bottom of the BeCool radiator. The pin was not welded in the correct place on the lower bottom passenger side of the radiator so I had to cut it off since I didn't have a alum welder to weld it back on in the correct position. The pin's purpose is to protude through a hole in the radiator frame brackets to keep the radiator from shifting fore and aft and side to side.
If you find you have to cut the pin off you will need to add additional brackets to hold the radiator in place. You will need to cut rubber pieces also to place under the radiator as cushion and isolaters between the radiator and radiator frame. The stock ones are too small.
There is minimal room when installing the radiator and fan shroud so make sure to cut cardboard and tape to both sides of the condensor and radiator and leave in place and then remove when everything is in place and ready to drive. The cardboard will keep from bending the fins and/or punching a holes on the ac condensor and/or radiator.
I installed the BeCool myself with the car on 18 inch jack stands. Obviously a lift and two people make the job a lot easier. Lining up the ac condensor into the brackets on the front of the radiator and lining up the fan shroud on the back of radiator is the most difficult when doing it alone.
Don't even attempt to install the fan shroud until you cut off the 1/2 inch lip on the fan shroud.
Hand smooth the rough edges on the radiator neck slots as you might cut the rubber sleave on the cap if you don't. The cap goes on so tight the first few times you will think you can't get off.
I could not get the ATI black upper radiator cover/bracket fit. It is too narrow - so I replaced it with a BMR chrome cover.
The BeCool is keeping the car cool now with the AC running - but summer temps are not in the upper 90's yet. Rather than installing an additional thin 9 inch puller fan on the backside of the radiator I will install a pusher fan on the AC condensor instead if my temps run too high as they did with the stock fan. It's the AC that forces the temps to elevate to 230 or higher in stop and go traffic.
I could not get the BeCool to fit with the electric Meziere water pump. There is not enough room for radiator crossover hose due to the long nose on the ewp so I had to remove the ewp and replace with a stock pump.
Am running a single Spal Exreme 16 inch fan replacing the ATI 16 inch.
You will end up with minimum clearance between the ATI intake hat and the ATI fan shroud. You end up having to cut off the lower fan shroud hanger bracket on the driver side of the BeCool radiator as well as the 1/2 inch lip on the bottom of the ATI fan shroud. Doing this means you need to make some brackets to hold the fan shroud in place since the bracket hanger is removed allowing it to shift if an additional bracket isn't installed to hold it in place. The hanger bracket removal is required because there is not enough clearance due to the plastic inlet hat on the blower.
There is a pin on the bottom of the BeCool radiator. The pin was not welded in the correct place on the lower bottom passenger side of the radiator so I had to cut it off since I didn't have a alum welder to weld it back on in the correct position. The pin's purpose is to protude through a hole in the radiator frame brackets to keep the radiator from shifting fore and aft and side to side.
If you find you have to cut the pin off you will need to add additional brackets to hold the radiator in place. You will need to cut rubber pieces also to place under the radiator as cushion and isolaters between the radiator and radiator frame. The stock ones are too small.
There is minimal room when installing the radiator and fan shroud so make sure to cut cardboard and tape to both sides of the condensor and radiator and leave in place and then remove when everything is in place and ready to drive. The cardboard will keep from bending the fins and/or punching a holes on the ac condensor and/or radiator.
I installed the BeCool myself with the car on 18 inch jack stands. Obviously a lift and two people make the job a lot easier. Lining up the ac condensor into the brackets on the front of the radiator and lining up the fan shroud on the back of radiator is the most difficult when doing it alone.
Don't even attempt to install the fan shroud until you cut off the 1/2 inch lip on the fan shroud.
Hand smooth the rough edges on the radiator neck slots as you might cut the rubber sleave on the cap if you don't. The cap goes on so tight the first few times you will think you can't get off.
I could not get the ATI black upper radiator cover/bracket fit. It is too narrow - so I replaced it with a BMR chrome cover.
The BeCool is keeping the car cool now with the AC running - but summer temps are not in the upper 90's yet. Rather than installing an additional thin 9 inch puller fan on the backside of the radiator I will install a pusher fan on the AC condensor instead if my temps run too high as they did with the stock fan. It's the AC that forces the temps to elevate to 230 or higher in stop and go traffic.
Last edited by dlandsvZ28; 03-27-2009 at 01:18 PM.
03-26-2009, 06:39 PM
#10
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Put Be Cool in and never looked back. Used to run 215* plus on a hot day with AC off with Spal fan 70 MPH. After Be Cool I ran 203* with AC on on 96* day in bumper to bumper.Open road about 190*. Few mods needed to move condenser and fan shroud closer to rad but only cutting no welding.Also trimmed shroud. BTW have 1/4" between hat and shrould.
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03-26-2009, 07:37 PM
#13
BeCool Here. Had to do some tweakin here and there to make it work. My blower is spaced a little more forward than most cuz of my crank pulley. I'm thinkin about gettin the SDCE setup and I think I'll have room for an F1 now tho if I want to later. 
Where the original shroud hangs on the becool tabs i had to slot them further back to make more room and trimmed the shroud @ the bottom. Runs a lot cooler than it did before. The 427 takes a little bit more to cool it. I'm still gonna add the small 9" fan.
Where the original shroud hangs on the becool tabs i had to slot them further back to make more room and trimmed the shroud @ the bottom. Runs a lot cooler than it did before. The 427 takes a little bit more to cool it. I'm still gonna add the small 9" fan. 