Piston Sleeve Wear
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Piston Sleeve Wear
Check out these sleeves I just pulled my engine because of .042 of crank end play my thrust bearings were mostly in the oil pan plus my crank was cracked and trashed. I'm considering using everything again with a new crank and bearings however my sleeves are showing unusual (to me) wear not sure if it's from the crap floating around in the oil or what. This is the only cylinder with more than visible striations you can actually feel these and if you try real hard catch your nail on them. The other cylinders have them but you can't really feel them.
It's a LS1 block with a Katech Kit 418CI 4.070. This is the #8 cylinder.
It's a LS1 block with a Katech Kit 418CI 4.070. This is the #8 cylinder.
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accorring to Katech and some other pics I've found it's normal and has something to do with how there inserted but I really don't know. They've been there since before I boosted the engine.
Being as this is an LS1 block (I'm trying to make 1000rwhp) and probably the only thing left to salvage is the rods and maybe cam I'm probably going to build a new LSX block ASAP no point in gluing this thing back together particularly after the amount of bearing crap in the oil pan. Oh well....
Being as this is an LS1 block (I'm trying to make 1000rwhp) and probably the only thing left to salvage is the rods and maybe cam I'm probably going to build a new LSX block ASAP no point in gluing this thing back together particularly after the amount of bearing crap in the oil pan. Oh well....
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Normally the piston will not hit the cylinder wall above the top ring, although minor touching seems common. when you see this type of wear/marks the skirt might be collapsed or the bore clearance is excessive. Try measuring the pistons at the end of the skirt and compare the sizes, you will probably find that piston is knocked in from load. If the tune was right and it did it you might need a tougher piston at the base of the skirt, but chances are the combustion process was telling the piston to go down and the crank was pushing up! The end result is the piston rocks in the bore and contacts above the top ring, if this is happening on only one cylinder look for a mechanical reason. That cylinder might be getting hot, mixture wrong, weak injector, water flow..........
Kurt
Kurt
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Normally the piston will not hit the cylinder wall above the top ring, although minor touching seems common. when you see this type of wear/marks the skirt might be collapsed or the bore clearance is excessive. Try measuring the pistons at the end of the skirt and compare the sizes, you will probably find that piston is knocked in from load. If the tune was right and it did it you might need a tougher piston at the base of the skirt, but chances are the combustion process was telling the piston to go down and the crank was pushing up! The end result is the piston rocks in the bore and contacts above the top ring, if this is happening on only one cylinder look for a mechanical reason. That cylinder might be getting hot, mixture wrong, weak injector, water flow..........
Kurt
Kurt
The problem that lead me to tear down the engine was crank walk from problems with the tq converter I was getting a very violent backfire when the reluctor wheel moved forward of the CPS. This happened only at WOT so it was very violent. It took me troubleshooting for months to finally check crank end play so it was allowed to backfire countless times as I looked for electrical issues. Could this be the result of that?
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Could have been a result of the misfire condition caused from your crank sensor error for sure, but you should make sure everything else is happy while your looking.
Kurt
Kurt
Sounds good the tune should have been dead on I trust the same guy to tune my new motor anyway.
The problem that lead me to tear down the engine was crank walk from problems with the tq converter I was getting a very violent backfire when the reluctor wheel moved forward of the CPS. This happened only at WOT so it was very violent. It took me troubleshooting for months to finally check crank end play so it was allowed to backfire countless times as I looked for electrical issues. Could this be the result of that?
The problem that lead me to tear down the engine was crank walk from problems with the tq converter I was getting a very violent backfire when the reluctor wheel moved forward of the CPS. This happened only at WOT so it was very violent. It took me troubleshooting for months to finally check crank end play so it was allowed to backfire countless times as I looked for electrical issues. Could this be the result of that?