How strong is the LSX 376
#41
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Obviously you wont need to drop all that coin all at once but you should do it in the right order if your intentions are to stay on the road. Here's how I would do it knowing what I know now.
1) cam and heads - drive and have some fun
2) 255 pump
3) rear end
4) Suspension - K-member, front/rear shocks, LCAs, LCA relocation brackets, Torque arm, drag bar
See how fast you can get down the track like this. If you can muster faster than an 11.5 at this point, you may need a cage and should just go with the 12 point if you really intend to take the car to 150 mph down the road.
The more power you have, the tougher it will be to get a clean pass with the 6 spd. Once you have a good feel for this, move on to gathering the hard parts for your turbo build. I mean turbos, wastegates, BOV, IC, bigger injectors, fuel pump setup, lines, fittings, MAP sensor, gauges, boost controller, etc. Then finally take the car down for the turbo build.
1) cam and heads - drive and have some fun
2) 255 pump
3) rear end
4) Suspension - K-member, front/rear shocks, LCAs, LCA relocation brackets, Torque arm, drag bar
See how fast you can get down the track like this. If you can muster faster than an 11.5 at this point, you may need a cage and should just go with the 12 point if you really intend to take the car to 150 mph down the road.
The more power you have, the tougher it will be to get a clean pass with the 6 spd. Once you have a good feel for this, move on to gathering the hard parts for your turbo build. I mean turbos, wastegates, BOV, IC, bigger injectors, fuel pump setup, lines, fittings, MAP sensor, gauges, boost controller, etc. Then finally take the car down for the turbo build.
#42
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well im going to do just crude estiments for ya
engine $15000 this includes all tuning, intake and goodies
turbo alone u are looking at $2000 (this wall depends on ci) the pt-88 good on a 370, but too much back pressure on anything bigger.
if you go the custom turbo kit $5000, truck manifold kit $2500 ish
suspension $3000
brakes $1500 atleast, what you have to slow down
trans your going to laugh $10000. every one thinks there first time out to the track they will run their dream #. doest always happen that way, **** breaks.
rear end $2500 + for a good built unit
Drive shaft and up grades there $1000
Roll cage, you wont make it too far without one. this all depends on how it is done, not everyone has a tube shark so you are at some ones mercy. but u just as well do a 25.2 (your gonna want to go faster some day).
$4500 u weld it http://www.wolferacecraft.com/detail.aspx?ID=827
gauges and little **** will add up also
i didnt talk about fuel systems either.
so with the truck manifold set up
$42000 moral of the story yes you can prolly do it for less than $50g, but you just as well have that much around. ***** gonna break.
9.0 you are hauling ***. tell me someone in a f-body car that has done it for less than $10000 and ran a 9 flat. I know you can get to the 9s for that price, but it takes way more to go a 9.0 flat
engine $15000 this includes all tuning, intake and goodies
turbo alone u are looking at $2000 (this wall depends on ci) the pt-88 good on a 370, but too much back pressure on anything bigger.
if you go the custom turbo kit $5000, truck manifold kit $2500 ish
suspension $3000
brakes $1500 atleast, what you have to slow down
trans your going to laugh $10000. every one thinks there first time out to the track they will run their dream #. doest always happen that way, **** breaks.
rear end $2500 + for a good built unit
Drive shaft and up grades there $1000
Roll cage, you wont make it too far without one. this all depends on how it is done, not everyone has a tube shark so you are at some ones mercy. but u just as well do a 25.2 (your gonna want to go faster some day).
$4500 u weld it http://www.wolferacecraft.com/detail.aspx?ID=827
gauges and little **** will add up also
i didnt talk about fuel systems either.
so with the truck manifold set up
$42000 moral of the story yes you can prolly do it for less than $50g, but you just as well have that much around. ***** gonna break.
9.0 you are hauling ***. tell me someone in a f-body car that has done it for less than $10000 and ran a 9 flat. I know you can get to the 9s for that price, but it takes way more to go a 9.0 flat
#43
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IT CAN TOTALLY BE DONE
IT WILL TOTALLY BE AN EXPENSIVE PITA.
I actually ran 'only' a 9.9 but it was on a 346 with a stock cam (2004) oh how things have changed.
Not too hard to make DOUBLE the hp I had back then.. so considering that if you throw enough transmissions and clutches at it I say you will eventually get lucky and run a number.
I suggest multiple completely built trans's and clutches on hand.
I broke two $3,000 6 speeds in one week.. that was enough for me. one $4000 4l80 has gotten me the last 4 years.
Running a 10.0 in a heavy stick car is feat enough.. why don't you try for that?
IT WILL TOTALLY BE AN EXPENSIVE PITA.
I actually ran 'only' a 9.9 but it was on a 346 with a stock cam (2004) oh how things have changed.
Not too hard to make DOUBLE the hp I had back then.. so considering that if you throw enough transmissions and clutches at it I say you will eventually get lucky and run a number.
I suggest multiple completely built trans's and clutches on hand.
I broke two $3,000 6 speeds in one week.. that was enough for me. one $4000 4l80 has gotten me the last 4 years.
Running a 10.0 in a heavy stick car is feat enough.. why don't you try for that?
#44
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IT CAN TOTALLY BE DONE
IT WILL TOTALLY BE AN EXPENSIVE PITA.
I actually ran 'only' a 9.9 but it was on a 346 with a stock cam (2004) oh how things have changed.
Not too hard to make DOUBLE the hp I had back then.. so considering that if you throw enough transmissions and clutches at it I say you will eventually get lucky and run a number.
I suggest multiple completely built trans's and clutches on hand.
I broke two $3,000 6 speeds in one week.. that was enough for me. one $4000 4l80 has gotten me the last 4 years.
Running a 10.0 in a heavy stick car is feat enough.. why don't you try for that?
IT WILL TOTALLY BE AN EXPENSIVE PITA.
I actually ran 'only' a 9.9 but it was on a 346 with a stock cam (2004) oh how things have changed.
Not too hard to make DOUBLE the hp I had back then.. so considering that if you throw enough transmissions and clutches at it I say you will eventually get lucky and run a number.
I suggest multiple completely built trans's and clutches on hand.
I broke two $3,000 6 speeds in one week.. that was enough for me. one $4000 4l80 has gotten me the last 4 years.
Running a 10.0 in a heavy stick car is feat enough.. why don't you try for that?
ive seen good results of t56s with a spray nozzle and pump recirculating the trans fluid and having it spray on the 3/4 gear set helping greatly. something about how the acceleration of the car and how the fluid all flows to back of the trans during hard acceleration leaving the 3/4 dry and causing issues of shift fork, slider and dry gears.
#52
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I'm probably one of the cheapest 9.0 cars around, and I know I spent over 10g in total, easy! Also, a lot of the reason mine was so fast was being light and hooking like a sumbitch! Now i'm going the turbo route and looking to go really fast, the cheap budget is out the window and long gone, hahaha!
You better go back and recalculate your receipts.
#53
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You think I had less than 10g in the car, or you saying I had a **** ton more? I didn't have a lot in it, rotating assembly cost me $2200, used my stock block which cost $400 worth of machining, TEA 5.3 heads that cost around $1800 when I bought them, $350 for the used gmpp intake, $280 for the 42lb injectors, $400 for the accufab throttle body, had a $1200 turbo 400 in there, converter I got for $600 used and got my front hals with it for that price (friend getting out of the game), about $2200 when I bought the 12-bolt way back when, $40 per bullet that were right on the end of the headers, $2000 for the 10pt cage, suspension was around $1200 - $1400 (bought a lot of stuff used or on sale), rims and tires I got for $400 used for all 4, cheetah shifter I got for $175 used, driveshaft was like $350 - $400, aerospace front brakes were $500, headers were $475, cost about $250 - $300 to build the standalone fuel cell setup and $250 for the racetronix setup. That's all the main ****, probably other little **** here and there, and obviously any wear items have been replaced over the years, such as tires and what not. So let's say even another $1000 - $2000 in misc ****, which is probably on the high side, considering my nitrous plate setup only cost like $300, it would total somewhere around $15k - $17k, that's pretty ******* cheap for 9.0's! I've already got a third of that in just the rearend for the new setup, ugh!!!!
#54
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You think I had less than 10g in the car, or you saying I had a **** ton more? I didn't have a lot in it, rotating assembly cost me $2200, used my stock block which cost $400 worth of machining, TEA 5.3 heads that cost around $1800 when I bought them, $350 for the used gmpp intake, $280 for the 42lb injectors, $400 for the accufab throttle body, had a $1200 turbo 400 in there, converter I got for $600 used and got my front hals with it for that price (friend getting out of the game), about $2200 when I bought the 12-bolt way back when, $40 per bullet that were right on the end of the headers, $2000 for the 10pt cage, suspension was around $1200 - $1400 (bought a lot of stuff used or on sale), rims and tires I got for $400 used for all 4, cheetah shifter I got for $175 used, driveshaft was like $350 - $400, aerospace front brakes were $500, headers were $475, cost about $250 - $300 to build the standalone fuel cell setup and $250 for the racetronix setup. That's all the main ****, probably other little **** here and there, and obviously any wear items have been replaced over the years, such as tires and what not. So let's say even another $1000 - $2000 in misc ****, which is probably on the high side, considering my nitrous plate setup only cost like $300, it would total somewhere around $15k - $17k, that's pretty ******* cheap for 9.0's! I've already got a third of that in just the rearend for the new setup, ugh!!!!
I know that it would cost atleast $30K to duplicate my current build and I did it about as cheap as I think that it can be done.
#56
You don't need the weight or $$$$ of the LSX block. Here ya go. This is not too expensive and will be a great base to get you in the 9s:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...lock-sale.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...lock-sale.html
#57
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You don't need the weight or $$$$ of the LSX block. Here ya go. This is not too expensive and will be a great base to get you in the 9s:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...lock-sale.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...lock-sale.html
#58
I would like to personally thank everyone who took it upon themselves to derail a thread about a motor and voice whatever was on their mind from how much they spent on their build, how doomed a 6 speed was at this power level, to the economic impact of people buying crunchy peanut butter over creamy. In this thread titled, "How strong is the LSX 376" which now has about 50 replies 15 of them dealt with the title or providing info on finding a strong built short block.
That being said, I was under the impression that the T56 once built was a lot stronger than it obviously is. In light of that and me really not wanting to go auto I have decided that I will dial my goals back. Instead of shooting for 9.0s and 1k I am shooting for low 10s. Maybe I can achieve that on much less power, and the transmission will live once built. I have also decided that this motor (the LSX 376...the reason this thread was started in the first place) wouldn't be best suited for me because I want something very durable. So I have contacted ERL (awaiting an email of build sheet) Va Speed (left message on Monday....no callback yet) and just sent AES a PM about them maybe building me one of their motors. Hopefully I can get the ball rolling in some sort of direction very soon. To MightyMouse and Tiago thank you for the first hand experience, to anyone else offering your opinion based on no first hand experience and solely on what you think you thought you might have heard.....go enjoy some peanut butter
That being said, I was under the impression that the T56 once built was a lot stronger than it obviously is. In light of that and me really not wanting to go auto I have decided that I will dial my goals back. Instead of shooting for 9.0s and 1k I am shooting for low 10s. Maybe I can achieve that on much less power, and the transmission will live once built. I have also decided that this motor (the LSX 376...the reason this thread was started in the first place) wouldn't be best suited for me because I want something very durable. So I have contacted ERL (awaiting an email of build sheet) Va Speed (left message on Monday....no callback yet) and just sent AES a PM about them maybe building me one of their motors. Hopefully I can get the ball rolling in some sort of direction very soon. To MightyMouse and Tiago thank you for the first hand experience, to anyone else offering your opinion based on no first hand experience and solely on what you think you thought you might have heard.....go enjoy some peanut butter
#59
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Oh no, I understand, you and me are trying to make the same point here, I was saying that I did it pretty freaking cheap and even I was over 10g, no way in hell he's doing with a turbo setup for under 10g, just not gonna happen, and especially not with a stick shift for the cheap!
#60
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I would like to personally thank everyone who took it upon themselves to derail a thread about a motor and voice whatever was on their mind from how much they spent on their build, how doomed a 6 speed was at this power level, to the economic impact of people buying crunchy peanut butter over creamy. In this thread titled, "How strong is the LSX 376" which now has about 50 replies 15 of them dealt with the title or providing info on finding a strong built short block.
That being said, I was under the impression that the T56 once built was a lot stronger than it obviously is. In light of that and me really not wanting to go auto I have decided that I will dial my goals back. Instead of shooting for 9.0s and 1k I am shooting for low 10s. Maybe I can achieve that on much less power, and the transmission will live once built. I have also decided that this motor (the LSX 376...the reason this thread was started in the first place) wouldn't be best suited for me because I want something very durable. So I have contacted ERL (awaiting an email of build sheet) Va Speed (left message on Monday....no callback yet) and just sent AES a PM about them maybe building me one of their motors. Hopefully I can get the ball rolling in some sort of direction very soon. To MightyMouse and Tiago thank you for the first hand experience, to anyone else offering your opinion based on no first hand experience and solely on what you think you thought you might have heard.....go enjoy some peanut butter
That being said, I was under the impression that the T56 once built was a lot stronger than it obviously is. In light of that and me really not wanting to go auto I have decided that I will dial my goals back. Instead of shooting for 9.0s and 1k I am shooting for low 10s. Maybe I can achieve that on much less power, and the transmission will live once built. I have also decided that this motor (the LSX 376...the reason this thread was started in the first place) wouldn't be best suited for me because I want something very durable. So I have contacted ERL (awaiting an email of build sheet) Va Speed (left message on Monday....no callback yet) and just sent AES a PM about them maybe building me one of their motors. Hopefully I can get the ball rolling in some sort of direction very soon. To MightyMouse and Tiago thank you for the first hand experience, to anyone else offering your opinion based on no first hand experience and solely on what you think you thought you might have heard.....go enjoy some peanut butter