The Volvette's 1000hp build
 

This is what I have(and dont have) so far... Lemme know if this is going to work for me and if I need anything else.

The Volvette Motor Build
Goal is 1000 rwhp (about 28 lbs of boost)


Block: 99' LS1 Stock Bore
Lunati Crank
Lunati I-Beam Rods
Wisco Pistons 8.5 compression
C-King Crank & Rod Bearings
Roller Master Adjustable Timing Chain
TSP LS6 Oil Pump Ported
ARP Main Bearing Bolts (DON'T HAVE, NEED)
*ANYTHING ELSE I NEED?*

Heads: LS6 cast #243
TSP Hardened Push Rods
Titanium Retainers w/ heavy duty locks
bprracing
Comp Turbo Cam .623
ARP Head Bolts
LS7 Intake Manifold
90 mm Throttle Body (DON'T HAVE, NEED?)
Valves Stock LS6 (UPGRADE?)
Roller Rockers Stock LS6 (UPGRADE?)
Retainers Stock LS6 (UPGRADE?)
Spring Seat Stock LS6 (UPGRADE?)
Lifters Stock LS6 (UPGRADE?)
Rocker Arms Stock LS6 (UPGRADE?)
*ANYTHING ELSE I NEED?*

Fueling: Ethanol
Aeromotive R.R.F.R.
Walboro 255 LPH In-Tank Fuel Pump (DON'T HAVE, NEED)
Bosch #044 300 LPH External Fuel Pump (DON'T HAVE, NEED)
110 LB Infectors (DON'T HAVE, NEED)
SS Fuel lines and Fittings (DON'T HAVE, NEED)

Misc:
Head/Engine Gasket Set (DON'T HAVE, NEED)
F&R Main Bearings (DON'T HAVE, NEED)
1000+ HP Clutch (DON'T HAVE, NEED) & WHAT KIND?

Wow I am not even sure where to start. First off you don't need 28 psi to hit 1000rwhp with a 347. Also an ls7 intake will not work with 243 heads. Also with your power goal in mind you might want to get a better aftermarket casting head

OK critics be easy on me I'm kind of a newbie to big motor builds. My car made about 25 hp per pound of boost before(I dyno'd 550 rwhp at 10lbs of boost). So 28 PSI is about 700 additional hp on top of the stock 300 rwhp. Right???:confused:

Well I made 670rwhp on 12 psi with my stock 241 heads ls6 intake and a forged 347 with my old Procharged set up.

I have a fiend that makes 770 on 13 psi on his AFR headed 383 with a D1

I think your best bet is to build a 383 with some nice heads and about 15 psi will get your your goals.

The aftermarket heads are better for higher boost as they have thicker decks and will be more resistant to lifting the heads and pushing water

also arp head bolts are a no go, get some arp studs, also tsp pushrods arent a restricted pushrod which isnt good at that power level. good luck with a reliable 1000hp stick car, your gonna break that left an right. you also need a rearend

OK so I need ARP Studs & Different Push Rods. What brand?

Is that all?

Also the 1000hp is just a dyno number. I will drive it with about 600hp. Also, I have a rear-end.

Ok man...he is right but short and sweet with it. here is my opinion.
1. the stock ls1 block will take the power but it wont like it very much and might struggle with distortion
2. If your going to use the ls1 block as a platform then your gonna need to help it along all you can, so lets see what you need
3. ARP main stud kit is very nice and you will need it but at that power goal I would personally pin the mains also. This block will want to walk the mains under that power level
4. 28lbs is going to be alot! You will be fighting issues on lifting the heads under that boost level because of cylinder pressure. I believe you will hit your power goal with less if you "help" it which brings us to the heads
5. I would def invest in better heads then what you have planned. Try looking into something like a TrickFlow 225 or comparable. These will also help you because of the thicker deck surface(nominal, but every bit helps) for the head lifting issue. be cautious when buying, if you go too big you will have valve shrouding
6. Forget the ls7 intake. square(rectangle) ports compared to cathedral.
Go with something of a ls6 or better, I.E. victor, wilson etc...
7. Lets step back...again, if using this block you will not have the option of using 6bolt pattern heads so invest in o-ringing or pyrimid ringing the block

I guess the most important things to know for this power goal is to have a well put together bottom end that is "perfect", good fuel at all times, great tune(will go a long way!) and invest in proper and proven products to help reach your goals with less "stress" to your motor. Basically make that engine breathe so you dont have to boost it to the moon to get that power. Good luck with your build...its gonna take awhile and you will need to do as much reading and learning as you possibly can.

Joshua

thank you!!!

ok i read some more...
nice prepped block, wiesco pistons, hellfire or C&R rings, at least scat h-beam rods with arp 2000's, savemoney on the crank and use a micropolished stock nodular iron crank(they are proven to hold a ton), ARP STUDS everywhere!(mains and heads),high flow induction and gm mls gaskets.
This bottom end should be sufficient.
I dont think you will need and cam with that much lift(.623)
Also, what is that question about "roller rocker stock ls6 stock" and "rocker arms ls6 stock"??? The stock rockers will work just fine,no need for roller rockers in my opinion
After you get all of the motor figures you can move to fueling it and putting that power down withoutbreakage, which will be very hard in a stick car as mentioned above. oh and my opnion is its going to be very close to 20lbs to see that kind of power on a 347/8

I would deff pin/dowl the mains. I would also look at getting billet main caps. 1000rwhp for the dyno should be around 20ish psi or so. You will need a better set of heads as mentioned. That will be a lot of cylinder pressure for a stock deck head. You should look into a set of AFR's, TFS, or other aftermarket head that will provide more clamping force. For pushrods, comp cromeolly's should be fine. What cam specs are you looking at? What turbos are they? Theres more to that number then what has been stated so far lol. For a clutch you'll need something like a RPS carbon twin disc. Thats just for starters. I have a fair ammount of turbo knowledge but hopefully someone better will chime in. Good start!...that thing will be killer!

Go ahead and have the block o-ringed.

my advise, do as much research before you start the project as you can. Speak to some of the vendors on here. they will probably be able to advise what thye would do for you. Alot do this withiout exspecting you to buy. also speak to guys running a similr setup to what you would like. there will be plenty on here. Its probably better to copy someone elses very successful setup than try to build your own.

Aslo if you are getting you engine machined/built by someone then speak to them and ask for their advise.

Someone has been drinking tonight haven't they.:chug:

LOL, noticed that too, i find it very hilarious to go back and read my posts "the day after" and see how rediculous ive looked, lol.

To the OP, If your ethanol, do you really need to be 8.5:1?? Also, i agree with the head choice highly, do not use stock casting if you can help it.

And def pin the mains. ummmmm. carry on :chug:

It was acutaly about 8:30 am when i posted that (UK time)! so thats about the same as having had a good few drink! lol :zzz:

If you are going to run 28# on a stock casting head i would say you need to O-ring heads and block for sure.
Looks like you need to do some research, serious research. Also if your engine is not already built i would recommend starting with a more solid foundation.

I just read that too. OP he is right...if you are using ethanol like you stated there would be no reason to run compression that low. now if you are a street car on pump gas and run around 10-15lbs and switch to ethanol for high boost then i would pick a ratio around a 9.5:1.

Agreed. there are much more solid blocks to make that power more reliable. but look at my build....very similar to what you are wanting and i am knocking on 1000rwhp's door. I was always aiming for around 850+rwhp numbers and got every bit plus 100 extra at 20lbs. it CAN be done. Its just got to be dont right. But as said, I would look into other blocks. Call some good vendors!

BTW...that kind of power and especially torque WILL eat 6 speed tranny's!! Ask me how I know!! Oh and go ask Tiago too and several other members

Boost is partly a measure of engine restriction on the power adder. Boost means there is more dense air in the intake and therefore more air mass into the engine, but it can also mean more restriction. After all, if you put a restrictor plate on your throttle body, your charge pipes would show tons of boost but the actual air entering the motor would be pretty lame.

Horsepower is more closely related to mass airflow than boost pressure. If you open the motor up and flow more air mass with the same boost, you will make more power.

Better heads, bigger cams, more displacement, more open exhaust and intake, etc will all flow more air and require less boost for the same horsepower.

Therefore, if you open your engine up and let it breathe more air mass per pound of boost, then every pound of boost you add is simply compressing the air denser, increasing the air mass.

MikeP made 770rwhp and spun for the last 1000rpm on the dyno. That was a 383 w/ a D1 running 12#'s of boost.

Throw some Katech rod bolts on that beoch for some safety too.