5.3 bored to 3.905 w/ forged internals, 1k whp capable?
11-30-2010, 02:57 AM
#22
700whp on a D1 is badass! Any issues pushing water through the head gaskets at 19psi?
Keep everyone posted on the results with the F2!
This proposed 5.3 build of mine is looking better and better, i just bought a Ls1 crank for $50 last night and he has a 5.3 block im picking up later this week for $100. As much as i want to lean towards a 6.0,,, i keep getting these rediculous deals on 5.3 stuff!
Its a sign from god.
Keep everyone posted on the results with the F2!
This proposed 5.3 build of mine is looking better and better, i just bought a Ls1 crank for $50 last night and he has a 5.3 block im picking up later this week for $100. As much as i want to lean towards a 6.0,,, i keep getting these rediculous deals on 5.3 stuff!
Its a sign from god.
Had I been able to go to 7000 on the dyno and hit 23 psi theres really no telling how much power it would have actually made.
Like I said in the post above, I got greedy once at 15 psi and it pushed a little water out. I've been pushing 23 psi for a while with no problems, good fuel and good tuneup.
12-01-2010, 11:15 AM
#23
I think he meant the cylinder walls look beefy enough to bore to that size and still make 1k power. Im sure he realizes that is a stock 5.3 picture and before the bore...
my bad, just saw the post above mine.
Too bad there wasn't that much meat there AFTER the bore, that'd be nice for FI and n02
my bad, just saw the post above mine.
Too bad there wasn't that much meat there AFTER the bore, that'd be nice for FI and n02
12-01-2010, 11:45 AM
#24
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so it would be basicly a iron block 5.7. the crank is the the same. and every one knows how far they have gone only thing you would be missing is the extra cubes.
12-01-2010, 07:35 PM
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12-01-2010, 09:26 PM
#27
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I just built a 3.900 bore 5.3 Ross pistons and Luntai rods. Comp cam .620 235 115. World challenge heads, ls6 intake. Borg Warner S480. I don't know if it will make 1k rwhp but I'm sure it will be close at the crank. We'll see soon.
12-07-2010, 08:50 PM
#29
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well look what i just picked up for $100! 
Soo i measured the thickness between the cylinders on the 5.3 with a digital micrometer and i got 15.80mm. Then i measured the thickness between the cylinders on my Ls1 block and got 12.80mm. SOoo with that being said, when i bore the 5.3 to 99mm (5.7L) it will then take away 3mm from that 15.80mm measurement. Which leaves with with how much meat on the cylinders? you guessed it, 12.80mm which is the same as a stock Ls1.
Soo basically,,, GAME F---in ON!!!
Soo i measured the thickness between the cylinders on the 5.3 with a digital micrometer and i got 15.80mm. Then i measured the thickness between the cylinders on my Ls1 block and got 12.80mm. SOoo with that being said, when i bore the 5.3 to 99mm (5.7L) it will then take away 3mm from that 15.80mm measurement. Which leaves with with how much meat on the cylinders? you guessed it, 12.80mm which is the same as a stock Ls1.
Soo basically,,, GAME F---in ON!!!
12-07-2010, 09:50 PM
#30
well look what i just picked up for $100!
Soo i measured the thickness between the cylinders on the 5.3 with a digital micrometer and i got 15.80mm. Then i measured the thickness between the cylinders on my Ls1 block and got 12.80mm. SOoo with that being said, when i bore the 5.3 to 99mm (5.7L) it will then take away 3mm from that 15.80mm measurement. Which leaves with with how much meat on the cylinders? you guessed it, 12.80mm which is the same as a stock Ls1.
Soo basically,,, GAME F---in ON!!!
Soo i measured the thickness between the cylinders on the 5.3 with a digital micrometer and i got 15.80mm. Then i measured the thickness between the cylinders on my Ls1 block and got 12.80mm. SOoo with that being said, when i bore the 5.3 to 99mm (5.7L) it will then take away 3mm from that 15.80mm measurement. Which leaves with with how much meat on the cylinders? you guessed it, 12.80mm which is the same as a stock Ls1.
Soo basically,,, GAME F---in ON!!!
With that being said, I have seen several iron 5.7s, and wouldn't be afraid of it at 900hp.
12-20-2010, 04:43 AM
#31
I found this in another thread and thought of this:
It's not just the deck that moves around, it's the whole block. Same with the heads, the entire head flexes and lifts up allowing the gaskets to leak. The iron block will take a lot more than the alum obviously.
Here's what I learned from experience on my 4 bolt iron block/Allpro head combos:
5.3 block bored 3mm, 3.622 crank:
- GMPP MLS gaskets dry, ARP torqued to 75 ft lbs; dyno'd great, 1/8 mile great, first few 1/4 passes at 17-19 psi pushed ~8 ounces of water out each pass
- Cometic gaskets dry, same thing
- Cometic gaskets cut rivets out, Hylomar every layer, 75 ft lbs, a little better maybe 4 oz per pass
- retorque to 90 ft lbs; no more water pushing at ~20 psi running mid 8s at ~165 mph 3300#
6.0 block bored 0.030" filled to 1/4" above lower hole in block with block concrete, same 3.622 crank
- 5 layer GM gaskets, copper sprayed on only the outside, torqued to 90 ft lbs; no water pushing yet at over 20 psi running low 8s at ~172 mph
Here's what I learned from experience on my 4 bolt iron block/Allpro head combos:
5.3 block bored 3mm, 3.622 crank:
- GMPP MLS gaskets dry, ARP torqued to 75 ft lbs; dyno'd great, 1/8 mile great, first few 1/4 passes at 17-19 psi pushed ~8 ounces of water out each pass
- Cometic gaskets dry, same thing
- Cometic gaskets cut rivets out, Hylomar every layer, 75 ft lbs, a little better maybe 4 oz per pass
- retorque to 90 ft lbs; no more water pushing at ~20 psi running mid 8s at ~165 mph 3300#
6.0 block bored 0.030" filled to 1/4" above lower hole in block with block concrete, same 3.622 crank
- 5 layer GM gaskets, copper sprayed on only the outside, torqued to 90 ft lbs; no water pushing yet at over 20 psi running low 8s at ~172 mph
12-23-2010, 08:10 PM
#32
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thats some good info! i always used copper spray on all my turbo 4 banger cars. I will do the same on the Ls1 without a doubt. Whats kinda funny is i used to overtorque the head on my turbo 4 bangers. ARP suggested 72# and i always did 85#. Never pushed coolant at 25psi.
12-22-2013, 12:44 PM
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I'm curious to see how this motor turned out.
Last edited by DaGreightOne; 12-23-2013 at 12:36 AM.
12-22-2013, 07:28 PM
#36
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As you saw in my other thread the motor is complete and in the car now. I really hadn't touched since I built it 3 years ago. It just sat on one of my engine stands. Either way I have time now and hope to get it on the road in spring.
If you fallow my build thread well find out what it makes.
If you fallow my build thread well find out what it makes.
12-23-2013, 12:55 AM
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Well for me I have an APS twin turbo kit to go in a 2005 GTO I was hoping it would be cheaper and more reliable to build a small bore motor. And given the fact that the turbos are only 58mm big motors like 402 or 408 seem to push the turbos out of their efficiency range and also over work them causing them to blow seals. So I was thinking that a smaller motor would not work them as hard and make just as much if not more hp. If you think I'm off please advise otherwise.
12-23-2013, 06:40 AM
#39
Well for me I have an APS twin turbo kit to go in a 2005 GTO I was hoping it would be cheaper and more reliable to build a small bore motor. And given the fact that the turbos are only 58mm big motors like 402 or 408 seem to push the turbos out of their efficiency range and also over work them causing them to blow seals. So I was thinking that a smaller motor would not work them as hard and make just as much if not more hp. If you think I'm off please advise otherwise.
