5.3 bored to 3.905 w/ forged internals, 1k whp capable?
11-24-2010, 04:12 PM
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5.3 bored to 3.905 w/ forged internals, 1k whp capable? Soo im at a crossroads where i can go several different ways with the 3 different engines i currently have. (2 ls1's and a 02 5.3)
My goal is 1000whp one way or another, i just want that number, probably never use it after the car leaves the dyno. Well, maybe at the texas mile in 5th and 6th gear
otherwise it will be ran at 500-600hp for normal driving and happy fun time.
Assuming the sonic testing checks out and the sleeve thicknesses are perfect after the boring, how strong is the 5.3 @ 3.905 with those HP numbers? Leave all the other ingredients out of the equation (forged crank/rods/pistons/heads) Im thinking 9.5:1 on the compression ratio, a nice happy medium, and probably some home ported 853s i have laying around, or buy some 317s and port those. I just want to hear what people have done or know about the block itself withholding such an HP level. Sure, someone is going to tell me to get a 6.0 block and hone it. Well, i have a 5.3 long block that is in cherry condition right now in my garage waiting! My turbo currently is an off the shelf PT88, which probably wont hit my number. Seeing how it has to get rebuilt anyways, im gonna upgrade it to a 91.5mm/T4. Now we're talking.
Based off my research that should be an excellent combo and get me where i want to be. correct me if i am wrong! All opinions and knowledge welcomed of course.
Soo my options are:
#1 Bore my 5.3 to 3.905 and go forged internals for the turbo setup and aim for the moon on the dyno!
#2 Bore my spare ls1 to 3.905 and go forged internals for the turbo setup and be sketched out at anything over 800whp.
#3 Either way a Ls1 is goin into my ranger, either my spare or the half stockish one that is currently in my Rx7. Soo this option is just for laughs
thanks in advance.
My goal is 1000whp one way or another, i just want that number, probably never use it after the car leaves the dyno. Well, maybe at the texas mile in 5th and 6th gear
otherwise it will be ran at 500-600hp for normal driving and happy fun time.Assuming the sonic testing checks out and the sleeve thicknesses are perfect after the boring, how strong is the 5.3 @ 3.905 with those HP numbers? Leave all the other ingredients out of the equation (forged crank/rods/pistons/heads) Im thinking 9.5:1 on the compression ratio, a nice happy medium, and probably some home ported 853s i have laying around, or buy some 317s and port those. I just want to hear what people have done or know about the block itself withholding such an HP level. Sure, someone is going to tell me to get a 6.0 block and hone it. Well, i have a 5.3 long block that is in cherry condition right now in my garage waiting! My turbo currently is an off the shelf PT88, which probably wont hit my number. Seeing how it has to get rebuilt anyways, im gonna upgrade it to a 91.5mm/T4. Now we're talking.
Based off my research that should be an excellent combo and get me where i want to be. correct me if i am wrong! All opinions and knowledge welcomed of course.Soo my options are:
#1 Bore my 5.3 to 3.905 and go forged internals for the turbo setup and aim for the moon on the dyno!
#2 Bore my spare ls1 to 3.905 and go forged internals for the turbo setup and be sketched out at anything over 800whp.
#3 Either way a Ls1 is goin into my ranger, either my spare or the half stockish one that is currently in my Rx7. Soo this option is just for laughs
thanks in advance.
Last edited by Hi Volume; 11-24-2010 at 05:04 PM.
11-24-2010, 10:27 PM
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I found the thread with that guy who used a turbonetics big thumper on a forged/bored 5.3 Seems like he is the only guy that has gone with this route. He went well above and beyond with it, but i would say my goals can be met, im feeling it!
If forged ls1's are doing 750-800whp fairly stable, then in theory a forged internal iron ls1 can hold the magical four digit HP numbers.
If forged ls1's are doing 750-800whp fairly stable, then in theory a forged internal iron ls1 can hold the magical four digit HP numbers.
11-25-2010, 02:09 PM
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ARP studs and fire ring the cylinders (o-ring)
post # 13 in this thread for info.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...lbs-today.html
post # 13 in this thread for info.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...lbs-today.html
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11-25-2010, 03:44 PM
#9
Here is a 5.3 bored to 3.9xx" that is very basic, also has a PT-91. No magic tricks either, very good info.
http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/in...topic=103675.0
Runs hard
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LImnsM9YyAI
http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/in...topic=103675.0
Chevy.Driver What is the secret to keeping it from pushing water? I am about to build a similar motor but with a ported stock head and way smaller turbo and I am wondering what advice you could give?
Thanks
There is no secret. Look at the parts list. This is not a max effort engine. If it were, it would have a completely different list of parts in it. It does have about a dozen dyno pulls and over 700 street miles and never added a drop of water. Go figure. Your OEM heads will not hold the same as these heads for obvious reasons. And if 1/2" studs were a fix, the LSX would not exist today.
For the record, I'm about to do a rare thing for the internet. I am going to share my first-hand experience about something. This did not come from someone else, through someone else from their brother's uncle's sister's cousin. This is coming straight from the owner, builder and funder of an actual car with a real engine, that exists in real life, not just in a fantasy, "My stock-size studded, OEM iron blocked, OEM main-capped, OEM head-gasketed, All Pro-headed, PT91-equipped, LSx engine does not push water at 17 psi and 1200+ rwhp, yet."
Hope that helps.
Thanks
There is no secret. Look at the parts list. This is not a max effort engine. If it were, it would have a completely different list of parts in it. It does have about a dozen dyno pulls and over 700 street miles and never added a drop of water. Go figure. Your OEM heads will not hold the same as these heads for obvious reasons. And if 1/2" studs were a fix, the LSX would not exist today.
For the record, I'm about to do a rare thing for the internet. I am going to share my first-hand experience about something. This did not come from someone else, through someone else from their brother's uncle's sister's cousin. This is coming straight from the owner, builder and funder of an actual car with a real engine, that exists in real life, not just in a fantasy, "My stock-size studded, OEM iron blocked, OEM main-capped, OEM head-gasketed, All Pro-headed, PT91-equipped, LSx engine does not push water at 17 psi and 1200+ rwhp, yet."
Hope that helps.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LImnsM9YyAI
11-25-2010, 04:11 PM
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yes thats the one and only thread i was referring to that i had found. Very impressive and it seems like literally no one has gone with this route yet. Sure everyone just goes with a 6.0 block, but like i said, i have this minty 5.3 longblock just hanging out in the garage. It was supposed to go in my ranger, but hey why not be able to run more boost safely in the rx7 and put a Ls1 in the ranger at the same time right?
11-25-2010, 05:05 PM
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I went with a 5.3 block bored to 3.905 and a 4.0 stroke, ST80 turbo 14-17lbs boost. In the neighborhood of 850-900 crank horsepower. I like this combination because it leaves lots of material for sealing the combustion chambers.
11-26-2010, 02:48 PM
#13
If you are going to go thru with this and then potentially the double Oring machine work plus those expensive head gaskets.... you should start out with a 6.0 block. No need for massive overbore.... plus the 4.0" bore allows for better valve selection and less shrouding as well. In the end the savings with going with a 5.3 will be minimal... also resale on it will be worse if you wanted to sell it down the line.
There are plenty 6.0 or LS2 engines with stock cranks, upgraded rods/pistons, and GM MLS head gaskets running 4 bolt heads making 1000hp+ and a little LS6 intake manifold. The double O-ring is a major undertaking ($$$$) but if you have the cash for that... start out with the 6.0 iron block.
There are plenty 6.0 or LS2 engines with stock cranks, upgraded rods/pistons, and GM MLS head gaskets running 4 bolt heads making 1000hp+ and a little LS6 intake manifold. The double O-ring is a major undertaking ($$$$) but if you have the cash for that... start out with the 6.0 iron block.
11-27-2010, 04:49 PM
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Hell yea those blocks have some very thick walls for sure. how was the revving characteristics seeing how it was under square? I need to be able to spin the engine to 7k ideally because i am a T56 till death kinda guy. I would use the stock stroke @ 3.905 bore and run it as an iron 347.
11-27-2010, 06:33 PM
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11-28-2010, 01:52 AM
#18
I wasn't going to chime in as my bored iron 5.3 doesn't make 1k at the tires, but I feel that it could get pretty close. It's a pretty simple build, stock crank, eagle rods, mahle pistons, worked 706 heads, comp 224/230 114 cam and a vic. jr. intake. D1sc pullied to spin 106% at 7000 rpm netted me 23 psi of boost. Filled the tank with C16 and hit the dyno. The second pull I made I only took it to 6000 rpm to make sure the tune was getting good and it made 700 rwhp at 19 psi with a kindergarten tune in it. The graph was going straight up with I cut if off. After that I went for it and the trans let go, so I never got to finish the session. I'm pretty sure it would have ended up in the 775-800 range when it was done.
Took it to the track and only got to make one pass on the kill tune as it ripped the waterpump pulley off. But it did run 10.46 at 126 mph at 4550lb raceweight at 23 psi. Funny thing was though it had run that same mph on 15 psi but picked up .5 sec. I'm thinking the single 3" exhaust had it choked up on the topend not letting it shine. It felt lazy on the back side.
With all that being said, I think that with a cam change, a much bigger exhaust system and an upgrade to a F1-A or F1-C spinning at max boost could have easily netted me what it was lacking from joining the 1k club.
I've been making changes to the truck lately and have a cog drive F2 with A2W waiting to go on. If my bigger motor isn't done in a reasonable amount of time, you can be your *** I'm throwing this set up on my 5.3 to see what it will do. Looks like I'm only a couple months out on trying so I'll keep yall updated.
Gonna go straight to the dyno and start the F2 around 83% (which I'm guessing will net somewhere between 25-30 psi) on C16 with ice water in the tank. If it doesn't break a grand, I'll be making a pulley adjustment. Then if everything looks like its gonna hold together relatively well, I'll take it to the track and see what it will run.
Took it to the track and only got to make one pass on the kill tune as it ripped the waterpump pulley off. But it did run 10.46 at 126 mph at 4550lb raceweight at 23 psi. Funny thing was though it had run that same mph on 15 psi but picked up .5 sec. I'm thinking the single 3" exhaust had it choked up on the topend not letting it shine. It felt lazy on the back side.
With all that being said, I think that with a cam change, a much bigger exhaust system and an upgrade to a F1-A or F1-C spinning at max boost could have easily netted me what it was lacking from joining the 1k club.
I've been making changes to the truck lately and have a cog drive F2 with A2W waiting to go on. If my bigger motor isn't done in a reasonable amount of time, you can be your *** I'm throwing this set up on my 5.3 to see what it will do. Looks like I'm only a couple months out on trying so I'll keep yall updated.
Gonna go straight to the dyno and start the F2 around 83% (which I'm guessing will net somewhere between 25-30 psi) on C16 with ice water in the tank. If it doesn't break a grand, I'll be making a pulley adjustment. Then if everything looks like its gonna hold together relatively well, I'll take it to the track and see what it will run.
11-29-2010, 11:24 PM
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700whp on a D1 is badass! Any issues pushing water through the head gaskets at 19psi?
Keep everyone posted on the results with the F2!
This proposed 5.3 build of mine is looking better and better, i just bought a Ls1 crank for $50 last night and he has a 5.3 block im picking up later this week for $100. As much as i want to lean towards a 6.0,,, i keep getting these rediculous deals on 5.3 stuff!
Its a sign from god.
Keep everyone posted on the results with the F2!
This proposed 5.3 build of mine is looking better and better, i just bought a Ls1 crank for $50 last night and he has a 5.3 block im picking up later this week for $100. As much as i want to lean towards a 6.0,,, i keep getting these rediculous deals on 5.3 stuff!
Its a sign from god.
Last edited by Hi Volume; 11-29-2010 at 11:38 PM.
