Twin 6765 408 88 GTA build
 

Been working on this build for a little while...
1988 GTA 305/700R-4 220K miles before it gave out...
2001 LQ9 bored out to 4.030
Mahle Pistons/Mahle Performance rings
Callies 6.125 rods
Callies Compstar 4" stroke crank
flowed 317 heads(325cfm) from 67firebird455
Lingenfelter intake with 4 bolt LS2 90mm TB adapter
LSX Fuel Rails
83lb Racetronix high impedance injectors
034 motorsports standalone
Stainless works turbo manifolds
Precision billet 6765 turbos
Tial 44mm wastegates
Art Carr 200-4R/Art Carr Converter
QP 9" rear
Here are some pics mocked up for now...
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...01221-1343.jpg
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...01221-1343.jpg
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...5/DSCF0455.jpg
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...5/DSCF0453.jpg
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...rty85/gta1.jpg
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...rty85/gta2.jpg

nice mock up cant wait to see some snail hanging!

They will be hanging soon, just have to source the correct precision flanges because the turbos are vband inlets and precision wants to be different than everybody else...

Got the crank installed and the headers back with turbos hanging on them
Next gotta gap the rings, and put the pistons and rings in
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...10122-1953.jpg
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...10122-1923.jpg

Nice........what tranny will you be running?

im a big fan of lsx gtas, especialy one with forced induction.:devil:
im working on my own ls sc gta

Anyone have a recommendation on ring gap for 14-20psi? I also plan to spray a 150/200 shot if I have too. I set the main bearing clearance for .002 and rods will be .0025. I was thinking .0028 to .0032 for the top ring, and .0022 to .0024 thousandths for the second ring. Is this too loose for just boost?
Oh yeah, I measured all my parts going into the car and with me I calculated 2471. With a cage, I think I should be just about 2600. Is this thinking too low, or is this really possible?

I'm liking this...can't wait to see the finished product.

How often do you plan on spraying? I would space things according to psi rather than spray...be it that the motor will live on psi all the time.

Still deciding on the tranny.. want to run a 200-4r like TTA's had and art carr makes one rated to 1k with a tc for 2617. That way I can run the crossmember from spohn for a close match. Or a 4l80 with a little tunnel cutting.

Nice build! What engine management system are you going to use?

BTW, I noticed you're in Chesapeake, I graduated from Indian River in 04'.

The engine management will 034 motorsports IIC. I have a whole system left over from a vr6 build. It will support up to 16 cylinders, batch fire, rotaries, waste spark, and supports all gm sensors. It also has an integral two step and spark cut. It was around 2400 for everything. Im trying to go to kings bay for my next orders.

Haven't heard of that one.

I've been here going on a year, it's not too bad. When's your time up there?

The 034 IIC for the money is one of the more advanced standalones in the world, here is their website:http://www.034motorsport.com/034efi-...dp0ksqhdjmfr50
I transfer in oct this year

If I had to buy one, I'd look at the Holley dominator setup. Good luck with your orders. What's your rate?

I'm a Fastboat Radioman. Trying to go to a GN. Still trying to see what the detailer has for an ET1 on the florida of georgia.

Sounds good. Hope to see your car around. I'm on the maryland.

Been working on the engine buildup, got the rings gapped to .028 for the top ring, .021 second ring, pistons and rods installed, valley cover on, knock sensors in, waiting on a timing set now due to getting a 1 bolt cam by accident, then I can mount the oil pump, pickup, pan, and hopefully have some lifters by then(thunder racing sucks)
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...10130-1727.jpg
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...10130-1727.jpg
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...10130-1729.jpg
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...10130-1728.jpg

Looking good.

You may want to ask some people but from what I remember reading you do not want your 2nd ring to be a tigher gap than your top ring on a boosted setup. Something about pressurizing the top ring and causing flutter.

those headers tapered down into the turbos like that is going to be pure insanity! looks good man, there will be many butt hurt people out there once it hits the streets haha. one thing i did notice though, are the headers super close to the valve covers or is that just the picture makin it look close?

The reason I gapped it that way was advice from someone who was running a twin turbo 408 with the exact same parts as me. The headers are that close to the valve covers. It's gonna be a tight fit

I was just trying to help, two wrongs don't make it right https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...p-smaller.html

Oh no I appreciate it, I think I might just open the second ring gap up to .032 now after reading about 10 different threads on this.

Cool build!! Looks great so far

Too bad I didn't see this thread until after you got it put back together! Build looks awesome though and atleast you still have the block on a stand. That thing is going to scream.

Not a big deal Ill just pull the rods and pistons out and regap them. Still waiting on oil pump cover bolts, and a brute speed FI cam.

good looking build! you may want to get spme opinions on your main clearance. I like to go a little looser for the power level you'll be making.

Frank

Finished pulling the pistons and regapped to .028/0.032. Torqued the rod caps and put the oil pump, comp billet ls2 timing set, lingenfelter oil pump, and front cover on. Different cam now too...ECS sent me a one bolt cam for an 07 LS2, well I already had an LS1 front cover and rear sensor, and LS2 timing set. So I ordered a brute speed FI cam, and I can still run the 24x reluctor on the crank, and have a rear cam sensor. Just waiting on a set of
LS7 lifters to torque heads down, then its onto the valvetrain and bodywork
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...10205-1832.jpg

Looks great but how you going to get to the plugs once it's in the car?

Plug access is very good with SW turbo headers. I placed the engine in the car already and it looked good.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...o-headers.html

got the ls7 lifters in, heads torqued down with gm mls gaskets and arp studs, intake on, injectors on, fuel rails on, and throttle body adaptor on. Just need an oil pan gasket and rear main seal now, and i can mate up the flexplate/adapter/tc/transmission. Im still wondering what it will make N/A(im guessing 500-550rwhp)? The compression is 9.56:1. I intend to run up to 14psi(dont wanna lift water) since they are stock castings. Here is where I am at right now:
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...5/DSCF0457.jpg

How will you keep the boost in check without wastegates??

OOPS.......haha, jk

Nice build, I miss my third gen.

beat me to it. wastegates?

Actually, there are several cars built from jun in japan that control boost by the square of rpm, but no I havent decided where they will go. This will happen once the engine goes into the car and the layout is all set.

paint those rusty exhaust housings! :judge:
looks good otherwise, gunna sound nasty! :devil::bigun2:

Nice setup! Gonna be pretty awesome going into that type of car. That GTA needs a drop and the Year ONE wheels on it and it would look SICK!

Those are some nice headers from SW...

Not too keen on the year one wheels...C6ZO6 wheels would look nice with 315-30/18's(dont wanna be too heavy). Think I changed my mind on the only piece I need to buy: the transmission. Thinking of going with a PG.

Love the build, what are you going to do about under hood heat. My SSW headers emit considerably more heat than any other header I have ran before and this is on an NA application. I wish I would've had them ceramic coated before slapping them on.

The headers,turbo hotsides, and downpipes will be sent to swaintech for their white lightning coating before it ever goes together.

Thats gonna be one fun thirdgen

no more 240mph top speed then

Bummer. :confused:

way cool

Maybe I'll think about the transmission again. But there are PG's in the 5's at 210 in the quarter...
CK performance has what looks like good transmissions at good prices(200-4r for around 2300 setup with Tbrake to handle 1000hp)
I got the adj spohn LCA's and the spohn adj panhard bar and the rear just has to have to axle retainers, discs, and calipers put on, then I just need shocks?
Been looking at tubular front subframes-the bmr turbo k member with pinto manual rack mounts should allow for at least a 4" dp. It will be rolling soon...

Got the rear control arms on, shocks/springs on, rear end in, and calipers/discs on. Threw the old wheels on so its sitting on the ground now. One problem, the panhard bar from spohn will not fit in the rear end side. The bushing is physically too big or the mount is warped inward. Plus the shoulder of the bolt wont fit either...Simple fix but annoying. And the rear was supposed to be narrowed 1", it doesnt even look like it. As for the transmission, I think I will just spend the money and go with a 200-4R.
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...urty85/035.jpg
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...urty85/036.jpg

I had the same issue with mine, and yeah, I had to get a new bolt. same thing, simple but irritating.

What about the bushing being too big?

too big how?

the bushing won't fit in the mount hole-too wide

mine fit fine but you can get different thickness's of the two halves that sandwich the spherical piece so if you can cut or machine them down it will be fine. You could order narrow pieces if your concerned about it.

how much too wide is it?

It's not a spherical bearing, its poly

to be honest with you, it wouldnt be the first time i cut down an end to make it fit, and im talking about customers cars not just my own. as long as it fits tightly and securely with the steel sleeve in between the two plates, your good. I drilled out both holes of the axle side to make sure I had a bolt that was tight on both sides.

Try not to think about it so specifically, the real questions are the concepts.

is it all tight, as in, will it move more than .00x before metal to metal contact and it stops? if its secured with the bolt and moves as it was designed to then your good, if it can be cut down carefully to fit while still retaining its strength, go for it. Im finding it difficult to put into words but think about it as a concept on a computer, analyze the angles and thicknesses..... Making the distance between the two plates doesnt give up any strength because it just brings the force to the same places in the same directions in the same amounts.

i hope you can understand that, Im really trying to figure out a way to write it and I cant and its frustrating :eek:

I understand exactly what you are saying. Im going to take out the bushing and place the metal piece inside and shave down the poly bushing slightly. Not a big deal, thanks for the help.

^^^Awesome, that was really bugging me lol

BMR K member, BMR tubular a-arms,, spring mounts, and th400 crossmember arrived today...ordered a full comp turbo 400 with a brake from competition trans that's coming in a few days...for the parts combo I have is 3000 stall too low? cam specs are:
232/240 .595/.608 115 LSA

I love new parts! Looking good man

Nice build! I'm lsxing my GTA right now as well, just not to quite this proportion. Love BMR's black hammertone coating as well.

:hail:

Some info on the k member please!

It is a BMR lsx k member with pinto manual rack mounts, tubular a-arms, and spring pockets. Not doing a coilover setup right now. Spindles are being powdercoated right now, then I can assemble it all. Still going to need some better brakes though- looking to see what will fit the factory spindles- will
1LE brakes fit? or would it be better to swap to different spindles?

the big ass brakes off the new CTS and zo6 will swap to the 4th gen fbody. I dunno about the GTA but if everything is the same then that seems to be the best/cost effective upgrade. theres a sticky on the swap to a 4th gen in the brakes section, you will have to run 18 inch front wheels though.

you can do an ls1 swap and still run some 16"s, not gtas though. I have 13" C4 ZR1 rotors with Wilwood 4 piston calipers, same deal, no gtas but I do have a set of formula wheels, they require an 1/8 spacer.

this is the guy you would want to get in contact with
http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/member.php?u=6589

I figured out the brake situation. Kore3 makes brackets for c5 all the way to
c6zo6 brakes. It's actually simpler than I thought. Take my third gen spindles and cut off the ears. Redrill and Tap the dust cover holes for the kore3 mount and c5/c6 brakes and abutment brackets will go right on. Im going to buy c5 325mm discs/calipers/brackets, and do the conversion. Plus the fact that I cut off that much metal makes the spindles even lighter. The cost is 659 total. 60 for two front lines, 95 for the brake brackets, 406 for c5 calipers with pads, and 49x2 for two c5 rotors.

Well finally something seems to be going right. I got the doors gutted today and put back on the car. Also found a hardtop roof for sale so i can do the hardtop conversion. Just need to get the notchback piece now...
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...rty85/roof.jpg

Oh sweet a notchback will look soo awesome. Love those cars

Normally I would be against that, but in this case a notchback is gonna lighten the car up a bit so this should be good. :burn:

Decided against the notchback. Too much money. I'll just buy the percy's glass for the hatch. I got the subframe in and manual rack/billet tie rod ends on. Picked up the transmission and attached it to the engine in preps for putting the engine in. Cut the spindles/drilled/retapped for c5 brakes. Got the solid motor mounts too. Also started sanding all the paint off the engine bay. More pics will be posted soon:
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...10307-1059.jpg
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...10310-1526.jpg

Got the engine and transmission in for test fitting. They fit like a glove. The crossmember lines up perfectly also. Also put on a turbo header and they fit pretty well also. The turbos will sit right in back of the headlights, downpipes
going down the center in back of the rad. Also got some more gas for the TIG, so I can start fabricating a radiator mount.
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...10314-2024.jpg

Care to share some pics of those calipers mounted?

The spindles are cut/drilled/tapped but I dont have the calipers yet. Next paycheck...

Cut off the old radiator mounts top and bottom. Also mounted the turbos and manifolds to see how they would go:
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...10315-1408.jpg

Looking good, seems like you still have a lot of room under the hood. Love the V-ban hot sides!

Got the hardtop and got it cut and set on top. Just about ready to weld it on.
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...10323-1738.jpg

Looks good! Just as a suggestion. If you are planning on doing a cage, I would do it before you weld the roof on. It will save you a ton of time and headache.

So I imagine those turbos are positioned well enough that they will fit under the stock hood?

I was thinking this too.