Zombie

iTrader: (2)

Took the car for a drive today while running some errands. Made a few short pulls 50-90 (on ramp play) then drove normal at 70mph. About 5 mins later I thought I heard a slight tick, increased the rpms by a few hundred and then the slight tick became a big vibration followed by what sounded like the motor scattering. Check the oil pressure which was good, killed the motor and coasted off the highway and called a tow truck. Motor would not turn over after that. No smoke, no leaks, oil level OK.

I'm guessing something happened to a rod. The motor was a super budget build done in 2005. 6.0L eagle sbc rods, used pistons. If it's not too bad I'll have this one repaired if not I'm thinking a 5.7L alum block with stock crank, good rods/pistons, aka cheap.

I was seriously hoping to not spend much money on the car this year

98Z28CobraKiller

iTrader: (17)

Sorry to hear that. I was fortunate enough to catch mine early and got off with a new stock crank and bearings. Let us know what you find.

jjcamaro02

iTrader: (34)

That sucks I had that happen to me this past summer. I hope its nothing to serious. I hate that sick feeling you get when something brakes.

AFASTYZFR1

iTrader: (55)

Sorry bud! Similar thing happened to mine recently. My motor is currently at a machine shop

AES Racing

iTrader: (6)

May just be a lifter, seen that happen, good oil pressure, lower end noise, expecting full engine build only to find collapsed lifter.

If not, check out our 390ci shortblock
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...rankshaft.html

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

Hope it's a quick/easy fix. Let us know what you find

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

It's never a good sign when it won't crank over, good luck with it. Bob

Zombie

iTrader: (2)

I hope it's a relatively easy fix, but that's usually not the case. It's going to be a while until I know what's wrong. I have to wait for my friend to get the car into his shop. I really don't want to spend any money on the car so I'm having a hard time deciding what I want to do with it. The idea of getting rid of it keeps crossing my mind because of all the additional things I was going to do to it this year like installing the fuel system, new gears and a radiator that will let me use the a/c in summer.

Is there any reason a 5.7 alum block with rods/pistons wouldn't be a good idea? I'm not sure if it would flex or not and last. A 5.7 setup would be a cheap replacement and save a lot of weight off the front. My current setup is making 850+ HP at the crank with 15psi based on track times and weight.

*edit*
Just did a bunch of searching on the alum blocks, it looks like it should be OK for my goals if I go that route. I'm only looking to run 1000hp at the crank so I think it would be ok. Just have to figure out if it would be cheaper to have it built or to buy one assembled.

The AES390 looks nice, but is more than I want to spend

RS_SS69

iTrader: (31)

Similar thing happend to a guy here, turns out his number 7 rod was bent, not sure how but it looked like a C when it came out of the motor. Good luck.

AES Racing

iTrader: (6)

LS1 5.7 blocks crack all over the place, sleeves, deck, bolt holes. Darton sleeves don't even fix them, cause they crack at the bottom of the bore.

If budget were an issue i'd look at a iron 5.3 block.

Blownz28man

iTrader: (2)

How about LS6 and LS2 Blocks? Same story?

02_ramair_ta

iTrader: (35)

On blocks I've been told the ls3 is pretty stout, and ofcourse all your iron blocks.


Sucks to hear about the car man! But glad you shut it down, and didn't try and push it home. Let us know what you find.

Blownz28man

iTrader: (2)

It does suck. Hell more room to grow...

AES Racing

iTrader: (6)

LS6 has same issues as LS1 5.7.

LS2/LS3 are best