Stock displacement or stroker for turbocharger?
10-04-2008, 10:14 AM
#22
Bigger is always better ,especially for a street car. Bigger engine will give more torque and hp off boost, and if you do have two identical turbos they will spool up quicker on the bigger engine giving you more useable powerband on the street.
Also you can run lower boost and make the same power on the bigger engine which can be good for several reasons. Less boost less chance of lifting heads and blowing gaskets for instance.
I went up to a 2.4 litre in my 97 talon,much improved over the 2.0. For reasons above. Sometimes you keep the rpm limits lower on the bigger engines but you dont really need to rev them as high since they make more power and torque lower down the powerband again a pretty good thing on a street car. No real downsides except price. 408 is going to cost like 1000 more than a 370 do to the cranks being forged. I would have went 427 but it was another pretty good jump in price and might have wanted to go lsx block in 427 or bigger and just felt it was overkill on my project with my goals. My goals were pretty simple.Hit 800rwhp with auto or 850rwhp with m6 with my 408, aps base twin kit and possibly some small shots mabye 100 shot of spray. Also figured should be able to do that on mabye 12 psi if using 100 shot on top. Maybe 15psi with smaller or no shot.
See how close I get likely next year when dyno the car. Some are saying the 408 is too big for the small aps base turbos. But we already have one member on here running 9s at near 140 on them at 12psi with 402. So they don't seem that small. I would be happy with 10s and 130s.
The factory often undersized turbo on their engines. This gives better powerband but sacrifices some total power and top end power.
On the street powerband is important at least to me. You can gear down if you are in higher gears to help out the big turbos or small engines but when you are going up thru the gears normally then you can't compensate for the bigger motor and laggy big turbos.
You can use two step and antilag stategy off the line and stall converters in auto as well but again rather go as big an engine as can afford.
There are lots of fast cars with 402 and 408s on the boost list. You can search the boosted list but for some reason it don't show up anymore on the main page for FI.
You also see guys going very fast with 370 iron blocks and the aluminum engines even 346. But again most of these are race type cars. If you want a race car then fine.you can stick to smaller cubes.If you want a great street car go bigger if you can afford too.
The 370 iron block is good bang for the buck. A bit heavier than the aluminum,hear around 80 pounds but strong capable of taking over 1200 engine hp. And the stock iron block crank is also very strong.So you really just need to forge your pistons and rods.
Also you can run lower boost and make the same power on the bigger engine which can be good for several reasons. Less boost less chance of lifting heads and blowing gaskets for instance.
I went up to a 2.4 litre in my 97 talon,much improved over the 2.0. For reasons above. Sometimes you keep the rpm limits lower on the bigger engines but you dont really need to rev them as high since they make more power and torque lower down the powerband again a pretty good thing on a street car. No real downsides except price. 408 is going to cost like 1000 more than a 370 do to the cranks being forged. I would have went 427 but it was another pretty good jump in price and might have wanted to go lsx block in 427 or bigger and just felt it was overkill on my project with my goals. My goals were pretty simple.Hit 800rwhp with auto or 850rwhp with m6 with my 408, aps base twin kit and possibly some small shots mabye 100 shot of spray. Also figured should be able to do that on mabye 12 psi if using 100 shot on top. Maybe 15psi with smaller or no shot.
See how close I get likely next year when dyno the car. Some are saying the 408 is too big for the small aps base turbos. But we already have one member on here running 9s at near 140 on them at 12psi with 402. So they don't seem that small. I would be happy with 10s and 130s.
The factory often undersized turbo on their engines. This gives better powerband but sacrifices some total power and top end power.
On the street powerband is important at least to me. You can gear down if you are in higher gears to help out the big turbos or small engines but when you are going up thru the gears normally then you can't compensate for the bigger motor and laggy big turbos.
You can use two step and antilag stategy off the line and stall converters in auto as well but again rather go as big an engine as can afford.
There are lots of fast cars with 402 and 408s on the boost list. You can search the boosted list but for some reason it don't show up anymore on the main page for FI.
You also see guys going very fast with 370 iron blocks and the aluminum engines even 346. But again most of these are race type cars. If you want a race car then fine.you can stick to smaller cubes.If you want a great street car go bigger if you can afford too.
The 370 iron block is good bang for the buck. A bit heavier than the aluminum,hear around 80 pounds but strong capable of taking over 1200 engine hp. And the stock iron block crank is also very strong.So you really just need to forge your pistons and rods.
