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I think my Transbrake is too slow...

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Old 09-15-2011, 09:53 AM
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Default I think my Transbrake is too slow...

Anyone that was at the ls fest and saw rd1 elim's in syf275 saw my car essentially dq iteslf on the starting line against koolrayz....what a dissapointment!


I brought the car up on the low speed 2step in pre-stage and slipped into the stage lights. When i hit the stage lights, I grabbed the t-brake button and the high speed 2step kicked in.


When it did this, it allowed the car to roll forward a good foot before fully locking down, and rolled out of the lights giving me a red. I obviously can't have this.


I'm running a th400 with a hipster TH400 brake. Is there anything i can do to make this work for me? I have been told i need a pro brake and maybe it'll lock down faster? The pass was a loss regardless because the wheel spun so bad on the tire it sent the car towards the center line wheel's up(anyone got any video of that by any chance?!).


Anyways, has anyone else dealt with this problem before and what did you do to fix it?? I'm half tempted to say screw it on the TH400 deal. I've gone through 3 sprags this year. At the ls fest, I was w/o 2nd on my qualifying pass in SYF and in rd1 thanks to that stupid thing, haha.


At what point do you transition to a glide? I think it's my time, haha.
Old 09-15-2011, 10:27 AM
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Yea the only way to fix that problem is to get a faster releasing transbrake. Jake's Performance(sponsor) has an awesome T brake for TH400's. Griner also makes a top quality product and griner actually uses jake's brake design for the 80e.

At the power your making your gonna need a spragless set/up. Sounds like it's time to Call FTI for a glide/converter package. Greg will hook you up with an awesome deal and give you the BEST support bar none for a tranny/ converter guy.
Old 09-15-2011, 10:34 AM
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Sounds more like a pump pressure issue if it's anything like the glide setups. I've had several over the years that would allow the car to roll before locking down.
Old 09-15-2011, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Fbodyjunkie06
Yea the only way to fix that problem is to get a faster releasing transbrake. Jake's Performance(sponsor) has an awesome T brake for TH400's. Griner also makes a top quality product and griner actually uses jake's brake design for the 80e.

At the power your making your gonna need a spragless set/up. Sounds like it's time to Call FTI for a glide/converter package. Greg will hook you up with an awesome deal and give you the BEST support bar none for a tranny/ converter guy.


I've already got one of Greg@FTI's converters and this thing is so good it's like i'm cheating, haha.


As for the trans, I agree. I just am stuck with "should i even dump the money a griner cost" when i really should be headed towards a PG it sounds like.

I know FTI is awesome, so is Jake's, I've also been extremly comfortable with Gil@ACE and have been pleased with each of them. The car has easy 5.50's in it with a trans that can handle the abuse as it sits. Just need the trans at this point, haha.
Old 09-15-2011, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by red91z
Sounds more like a pump pressure issue if it's anything like the glide setups. I've had several over the years that would allow the car to roll before locking down.

It seemed to hold fine if we weren't trying to build boost on the line. But the more boost/pressure we made on the line, the more the can would roll forward before locking down. That last pass was the most boost we've gone for at the line and subsequently the most it's rolled forward
Old 09-15-2011, 10:41 AM
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It's the band not applying fast enough/hard enough in reverse that is allowing it to roll foward so much.

And remember it's not cheating, it's the competitive edge
Old 09-15-2011, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Fbodyjunkie06
It's the band not applying fast enough/hard enough in reverse that is allowing it to roll foward so much.

And remember it's not cheating, it's the competitive edge


we put a brand new low reverse kevlar band in it just before this race just to be on the safe side....that held it on the brake, but was just too damn slow to lock it down.
Old 09-15-2011, 11:03 AM
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I dont have a video but I had a view as I went by LOL
Send the trans to Rossler and be done with it. I am not sure you will make enough power to launch hard enough with the 1.80 first gear in a glide. Sometimes I am leaving with 11# of boost and 4400rpm with the 315 radials on
Old 09-15-2011, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by koolrayz
I dont have a video but I had a view as I went by LOL
Send the trans to Rossler and be done with it. I am not sure you will make enough power to launch hard enough with the 1.80 first gear in a glide. Sometimes I am leaving with 11# of boost and 4400rpm with the 315 radials on



That pass was about 6psi at only 3500rpm on the brake. It was probably a high 1.20's 60' if it would have clipped it with the front tires. My car is a pure 275 car, no need for those steam-rollers here


I was just happy to get a couple extra data pulls out of the 275's, haha.
Old 09-15-2011, 11:10 AM
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You would need a pro brake. I had a non-pro brake in my 400 and it did the same ****, whenever I did heads up racing on a pro tree I had to make sure I was first to light the second beam so I had time to grab the brake and wait a sec before flooring it. I now have a glide in the car with a pro brake and it has no issues.
Old 09-15-2011, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Loudmouth LS1
You would need a pro brake. I had a non-pro brake in my 400 and it did the same ****, whenever I did heads up racing on a pro tree I had to make sure I was first to light the second beam so I had time to grab the brake and wait a sec before flooring it. I now have a glide in the car with a pro brake and it has no issues.


That's what i was looking to hear. Sounds like it is the brake. Screw all that mess! I only race the car heads up so this isnt going to work, haha.

That also explains alot. When i had low speed 2-step set as priority it crept less as it wouldnt jump to high speed 2-step till after i let my foot off the brake(if that makes any sense at all).

Sounds like it's time to spend some $$$....sweet, haha.
Old 09-15-2011, 11:34 AM
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Im guessing the T400 you have has the standard 2.48 first gear. It will be night and day when you switch to the 1.80 first gear in a glide, thats near 38% difference. The difference in gearing is around 7% between the 28" and 30" tires. I love my glide and am not trying to talk you out of one, just want to make sure you realize you will be adding a lot of power to your launches when you do switch.
Old 09-15-2011, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by koolrayz
I dont have a video but I had a view as I went by LOL
Send the trans to Rossler and be done with it. I am not sure you will make enough power to launch hard enough with the 1.80 first gear in a glide. Sometimes I am leaving with 11# of boost and 4400rpm with the 315 radials on
When I swapped from 400 to glide I thought it was going to need more power leaving too, so I went from 40% on my progressive controller to 100% all on and boy was that a bad idea on my part, should've stepped it up gradually but I was excited, haha!!!! Wheelstanded like a mother (about 3 times, kept getting off and laying back in and kept going back up to the bumper till I finally said F it and just let out and coasted the rest of the run)!!! Had to go back to the same settings on the progressive as the T400, didn't change at all from the 400 to glide with no other changes, other than the converter being changed for the glide obviously.
Old 09-15-2011, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by koolrayz
Im guessing the T400 you have has the standard 2.48 first gear. It will be night and day when you switch to the 1.80 first gear in a glide, thats near 38% difference. The difference in gearing is around 7% between the 28" and 30" tires. I love my glide and am not trying to talk you out of one, just want to make sure you realize you will be adding a lot of power to your launches when you do switch.
I think a lot has to do with how the converter is setup on the glide, like I said in the post below, I really did not see a difference when I swapped.

PS - This was a nitrous car, but not sure how much of a difference that would make.

Last edited by Loudmouth LS1; 09-15-2011 at 11:45 AM.
Old 09-15-2011, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by koolrayz
Im guessing the T400 you have has the standard 2.48 first gear. It will be night and day when you switch to the 1.80 first gear in a glide, thats near 38% difference. The difference in gearing is around 7% between the 28" and 30" tires. I love my glide and am not trying to talk you out of one, just want to make sure you realize you will be adding a lot of power to your launches when you do switch.


Thanks for the advice. I'm hoping it doesnt screw up how happy the suspension acts currently. We definitely have it on kill right now with the suspension and I hate to lose that going to a glide, but for sheer durability factor, I think we might. That, and the 1-2 shift is a PITA in a turbo car.....


nothing, nothing, nothing, then BAM it's all online and i'm overrevving the **** out of the motor and missed my shift. Most of the time the car is FAR from settled when the 1-2 happens and it's tough enough just keeping her aimed straight and happy let alone pulling 1-2 that fast. Maybe i just suck at driving, haha.



Originally Posted by Loudmouth LS1
When I swapped from 400 to glide I thought it was going to need more power leaving too, so I went from 40% on my progressive controller to 100% all on and boy was that a bad idea on my part, should've stepped it up gradually but I was excited, haha!!!! Wheelstanded like a mother (about 3 times, kept getting off and laying back in and kept going back up to the bumper till I finally said F it and just let out and coasted the rest of the run)!!! Had to go back to the same settings on the progressive as the T400, didn't change at all from the 400 to glide with no other changes, other than the converter being changed for the glide obviously.

That's what i've heard too....I'm trying my hardest to keep my tuner's hands off the low rev timing to keep it off the back bumper. I think we were the only turbo guys there though hanging them hard though. I think he's intentionally trying to get it on the back bumper and make me come back with brown pants, haha.
Old 09-15-2011, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by tim99ws6
Thanks for the advice. I'm hoping it doesnt screw up how happy the suspension acts currently. We definitely have it on kill right now with the suspension and I hate to lose that going to a glide, but for sheer durability factor, I think we might. That, and the 1-2 shift is a PITA in a turbo car.....


nothing, nothing, nothing, then BAM it's all online and i'm overrevving the **** out of the motor and missed my shift. Most of the time the car is FAR from settled when the 1-2 happens and it's tough enough just keeping her aimed straight and happy let alone pulling 1-2 that fast. Maybe i just suck at driving, haha.






That's what i've heard too....I'm trying my hardest to keep my tuner's hands off the low rev timing to keep it off the back bumper. I think we were the only turbo guys there though hanging them hard though. I think he's intentionally trying to get it on the back bumper and make me come back with brown pants, haha.
When I get the car running again with twins, i'm going to have to get used to how to bring her down smooth with a turbo setup if she goes up as I don't think it will work the same. I used to just pedal back to 3/4 throttle when I was getting too high so the nitrous would kick off and it would start to drop immediately and I would lay right back into to kick the nitrous back on so that the car would start charging forward as it was coming down and come down smooth instead of smacking down!
Old 09-15-2011, 11:58 AM
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I think the reason you are overrevving the 1-2 a lot and having so much trouble hitting it fast enough is the 2.48 first gear our transmissions both have(4l80e). I have to be on top of mine also, and you have a lot more power than me to make sure I hit the shift light going into 2nd.

Having the 1.80 1st gear like ray said will help tremendously with launching the car and applying power to the tires to get it moving and not wheelstand every time and/or overrev the motor by having a lot less gear reduction. You will probably be going close to or 100mph when you shift into high gear with a glide.

One other option to get the best of both is the Griner 1+2 transbrake. I forgot the name of the transmission company that handles all their (griner's) stuff, but it may require a spragless converter for that vb and t brake to work, they might have one that doesn't, I don't know. Jake can tell you all about that stuff with the TH400 with the 1+2. He's told me about it before over the phone when I needed some tech help, great guy to deal with.
Old 09-15-2011, 12:06 PM
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Hey tim, if its anything like my car, its not that the trans brake isnt holding or applying fast enough...its the suspension getting up when you start to build boost on the 2-step, and when you press the t-brake and let off the brake pedal the car is just settling back down, not so much rolling.

It may not be the best way but all i do is get on the 2-step with the pre stage bulb lit, and once im ready to stage I push the t-brake and let off brake and the car settles into the stage beam every time...no need to try and creep forward lol
Old 09-15-2011, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Fbodyjunkie06
I think the reason you are overrevving the 1-2 a lot and having so much trouble hitting it fast enough is the 2.48 first gear our transmissions both have(4l80e). I have to be on top of mine also, and you have a lot more power than me to make sure I hit the shift light going into 2nd.

Having the 1.80 1st gear like ray said will help tremendously with launching the car and applying power to the tires to get it moving and not wheelstand every time and/or overrev the motor by having a lot less gear reduction. You will probably be going close to or 100mph when you shift into high gear with a glide.

One other option to get the best of both is the Griner 1+2 transbrake. I forgot the name of the transmission company that handles all their (griner's) stuff, but it may require a spragless converter for that vb and t brake to work, they might have one that doesn't, I don't know. Jake can tell you all about that stuff with the TH400 with the 1+2. He's told me about it before over the phone when I needed some tech help, great guy to deal with.


Yep, we've looked deeply into the Griner stuff. It's definitely bad to the bone in terms of TH400 stuff.

I have a couple things fighting against me this weekend:

1) first time driving the car with the new setup(Driver error on my part)
2) My shift light isn't bright enough
3) shift light is on the column and is a bad location once you are wearing a neck collar and helmet. I can't even see it.
4) Driver error


My tuner is a bad-*** x275 guy and KNEW i was going to over-rev it before we even went up there. Just part of the learning i have to go through i guess. I'll get there. Nothing other than the stupid sprag broke this weekend and I'm really happy for that. We really wanted to see what it was going to run down the track that last pass. Oh well, guess we'll haul it up to BG next month for a T&T run and probably run it out the back door in the 1/4 to see what it does.
Old 09-15-2011, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by buick_lsx
Hey tim, if its anything like my car, its not that the trans brake isnt holding or applying fast enough...its the suspension getting up when you start to build boost on the 2-step, and when you press the t-brake and let off the brake pedal the car is just settling back down, not so much rolling.

It may not be the best way but all i do is get on the 2-step with the pre stage bulb lit, and once im ready to stage I push the t-brake and let off brake and the car settles into the stage beam every time...no need to try and creep forward lol


I'll see if i can figure out a way to pull the video a friend got of it. It was a distinct "roll" when i grabbed the transbrake not just the suspension settling. I know what you mean though! The car does alot of fumbling around when the brake does get applied. I've gone so far as to think about adding a line-lock on the rear brakes when i grab the t-brake to calm down some of that mess. Seems some guys on the bullet do this and it helps. In my car, i think my brake just isnt fast enough on applying the band when i grab the brake.

let me see if i can find the video on youtube.....


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