Wicked69

Okay, I was still going to use two 90's mandrel bent and cut them down the middle and merge. So it would still have a small bit of a "Y" not a complete "T" in the sense.

Wicked69

For the fitting for a steam provision in the water pump.....are you just using a 1/4" npt fitting?

ls1_chevelle

iTrader: (9)

yessir 1/4 or 3/8 whatever your flavour of choice is

Wicked69

Cool. Thanks.

Wicked69

Got alot done today. My first "Y" Pipe wasn't working so I had to come up with another plan. I am glad I did. I really think my cold side turned out nice. Everything lined up nicely and was extremely easy to remove should the need arise. I tried to keep everything flowing smoothly and therefore went with some 45's instead of 90's. This set up fit like a kit around my twin fans, radiator hose, belts, brackets....you name it! Let me know if you see any issues before I fully weld this up tomorrow.

Here is the new "Y" Pipe that actually turned into a "W" but with smooth flow.


Here is the cold side with the intake pipe from the throttle body. I am going to use some 3" rubber radiator hose they use on diesel as a coupler to hold this to the "W". By doing this it made it very easy to remove or disassemble everything in minutes.


Here are a couple different views from inside the engine compartment with it hooked up to the turbo's. I took the pictures after I pulled the upper radiator hose. The hose fit right around with no issues. I had to remove the hose to remove the cold side.




The next two pictures is where I am planning to mount the O2 sensors. Bob if I am using the stock harness would this be the best area to place them?

ls1_chevelle

iTrader: (9)

No you want the narrow band o2 sensors to be closer to the exhaust manifold PRE turbo. In that section of pipe would work, closer to the engine then the turbo.

BUUUT. Put 2 bungs in your downpipes where you have pointed for the wideband sensor(1 per downpipe). Id move them up stream about 10" so they are in the middleish of the straight run after the 1st bend out of the turbo.

skinnies

iTrader: (33)

Ditch the o2's and get a good open loop tune.

Wicked69

I am using the stock harness and pcm. It had two O2 sensors with it. At least I think they are o2 sensors. So to run my stock harness and pcm don't I need to run them? I am going to be using either Hptuners or Ef Live to tune with.

Also, ran into another snag. I am using the muscle car oil pan and purchased a Napa 1042 oil filter for a 2003 suburban and it wouldn't screw in. Any ideas? Dang these filters are small compared to what I was running on my big block.

tta656

iTrader: (5)

3 things

1 Awesome FN car!!!
2 beeing a GN owner for 14yrs--that Black high temp paint is toast in 30days
3 if a lil v6 can pull the wheels,trans brake and 5psi should do...

Wicked69

Thanks for the input. I am actually wanting it to pull the wheels a good 3-4ft. I am sure it will pull them but I wanted it to pull them like in my signature picture. It was a huge adrenaline rush.

Anyways....for an update. We are getting so close I can taste it. Not much sleep trying to work on this and keep up with 6 kids and X-mas. lol Still managed to get a little done today. First I was able to finish up my oil feed lines to the turbo's. I was able to get the correct filter for the H3 oil pan. You have to use a 2007 or newer oil filter. GM changed to a metric thread in 2007 and hence why my filter wouldn't work yesterday. Anyways, I was able to get the filter on and filled up with 5w-30.

I was also able to finally get my fuel pan in the trunk. I had recently cut out the trunk and wanted to set my fuel cell lower. I figured the stock gas tanks sat under the car so I would make it so my fuel cell would also. I didn't want it to sit too low though. We made a steel pan that was 4" in depth. My fuel cell is 8" so we split it. This will give me a little more room in the trunk area for grocery shopping. lol I got it all welded it up in sections. I only have a flux core welder but figured this was the best place to get some more practice. If it turned out like crap, nobody would really see it anyways. It turned out pretty nice though and actually made my trunk more rigid. It was very flimsy before. Anyways, enjoy the pictures.



Fuel pan sitting in the open section...not welded. Just trying to get a nice tight fit.


Fuel pan welded up in sections and the pan itself bent to fit the hole and welded up on the inside. I still need to cut and bend back a section for my drop down sump.

Wicked69

Thought I would do a quick update. Here are some pictures of my wastegates and pipes along with the throttle body intake pipe and BOV opening. I scuffed them up, baked them in my wifes oven on 300 degrees for 10 minutes, used two coats of primer, and 2 light coats of high heat low gloss black and 1 thicker coat. Waited 10 minutes between coats. I am starting to reassemble this afternoon and need to find out what gap to set my plugs. With E85 it is a little different and I am using NGK 9's. If anyone knows please post but I am going to start a new thread to ask only because I am ready to put them in now and don't want to be held up too long.

Cold Side

Lextech

iTrader: (18)

I have seen countless O2 sensors pre and post turbo. I have had mine post turbo for about 5 years now and they work fine. The pre turbo exhaust gets EXTREMELY HOT. If you decide to have it tuned OLSD (Open Loop Speed Density) you will not need the narrow band O2s. My Wideband O2 has also been post turbo for 5 years. Heat is another reason I mount the IAT sensor in a rubber flex coupler to help alleviate heat soak.

Jeff

Wicked69

We will put it wherever you think is best when you get here. I did not get around to put in the o2 bungs. Question...am I missing something with these T bolts. I am about to lose my mind. I am using 2.5 Tbolts on 2.5 part of turbo, 3.oo tbolts on the 3" pipe but for the life of me I can't get the darn things on. Should I be using 1 size bigger T bolts or something? Here is a picture of where I am at now. Here is a picture of the T bolt I am using also.

ls1_chevelle

iTrader: (9)

Clamps should say 73-79mm if I remember right for 2.5" Where did you buy them? Remember a 4" silicone coupler is 4" ID. Best bet is to take silicone in with a short chunk of pipe inside if you are buying from a hyrdraulic shop. My buddy just dropped 100 bucks on what he thought was right and they wont return em now... When you order 2.5" vibrant t bolt clamps, they are the right size for 2.5" silicone and pipe connections

Merry Christmas Brother!

ls1 1990 VN

'Subscribed'
Awesome car mate, we have quite a few Chevelles here in NZ, a few very tough BB cars.
Can't wait to see how yours ends up with the twin T LS.

Wicked69

Okay. That makes sense. I did get mine from a hydraulic shop but they will exchange them. I will take them up there tomorrow morning early and hopefully get a good start to firing this thing up by Tuesday.

Wicked69

Thanks. I hope it delivers even more than my last big block. I hope to be part of the 5 sec club.

Wicked69

Today was a long day. First I got it all set up and the BOV was pointing up too much and my hood wouldn't close. So I had to cut it and turn it and re weld. When I mocked it it must have been pushing the pipe down since I didn't have the clamps tightened down. With the clamps all snugged up it wouldn't close. Oh well, it looks better now. I just need to re paint.

The wastegate on the drivers side turned out perfect but the passenger side wasn't pointed enough to the inside and the portion that goes to the atmoshere was going to hit the pipe comeing off the turbo. For now I connected it but I turned it upwards just so we can fire it up. I'll have to pull it back off and the hotside and cut, turn, and reweld. That sucks.

The downpipe. The V band assemble ends were welded on. Don't ask me how, and I guess I should have measured but the clamps were 3" but the ends were not, so they don't match up. WTF? They are sending me a new set of ends. I should have known when the ends actually slid inside the 3" pipe something was wrong but since I have never used them before I assumed that was how they fit. It will be a few days before I get the new ends and welded but I think I can still fire the engine up without the downpipe. I assume it can't run very long but figured I could fire it up. Let me know if this is NOT the case.

Anyways, here are some pictures with everything assembled. All that is left is the wiring harness, mounting the pcm and a throttle cable. Also, got the fuel tank installed and all the plumbing for the fuel system completed and the radiator put in and trans lines hooked up.
Enjoy and please let me know if anything looks out of place or doesn't make sense. I think I have everything done correctly but since it is my first one I am sure I missed some stuff.

ls1_chevelle

iTrader: (9)

Looks bangin dude!! Yes you can fire with no down pipes. Wastegates won't matter as the car won't be making boost at idle so they will be closed not venting at all

Wicked69

Okay. Cool. Woke up this morning and snow on the ground. Dang....