370ci AFR 225's, APS w/ Kandos, Pro-flo XT Build (56K die)
12-20-2011, 05:02 PM
#1
370ci AFR 225's, APS w/ Kandos, Pro-flo XT Build (56K die) So I finally decided to do this build thread on my car. It's been a long time coming, and it's been a long time overdue. I figured now was a good time, because the car gets tuned right after the new year, so I will have all the results ASAP. Well without further adieu, here is the background on the car, and the specs.
I bought the car back in 2006 as a mild H/C car from a member on this site. I did a LITTLE to it, but I soon decided that I wanted to go with some kind of FI. At first I thought I would build a big cube nitrous motor, but after thinking about it (and being reconfirmed by riding in my friends STS turbo car) I decided that I really did not want to spray down the freeway one night and then say, "Well that was fun! I really wish I could do that again, but my bottle is empty." I wanted the power to be on all the time. So I decided to do a turbo build. And there ensued the parts ordering. Here is what resulted:
- 370" Iron Balanced, blue printed and assembled short block. GM
6.0 L Iron block (new), GM nodular iron 3.622 stroke crankshaft,
Callies 6.125" H beam rods w/ ARP 2000 7/16" bolts, Wiseco
4.030" forged turbo duty pistons, Total Seal stainless chrome rings
(for high heat applications), Clevite MS 2199 Hmain brgs, Clevite
CB 663 H rod brgs, ARP main studs (Built by LME in Houston)
- Patriot Stg II 5.3 heads, milled to about 58cc (From old H/C build)
- APS Twin Turbo setup
- FAST 90/90
- McLeod Street Twin Disk Clutch
- Twin walbro 255lph in tank, 8AN feed, Magnafuel boost referenced FPR
- Trick flow High flow fuel rails
It took quite a long time, but I got it all together. Long story short, I get it dynoed at the numbers in my sig, and then bring it home. I had some problems with the car as the months went along. One being a broken valve spring.
Then one day one the most randomest problems EVER happened, the passenger side oil feed line I guess was not secured/positioned that well and was touching my starter, and arcing with the power wire from the battery. Well eventually it burned through the steel braided line and I was just pretty much pumping out oil all over the ground. Good thing I caught it right when it happened, the car started smoking when I was going down the highway. So I pull over in a parking lot and then pop the hood, and to my surprise, there is a small fire on the passenger side of the engine, around the turbo and starter area.
So I get a new passenger side oil feed line for it, and the car ran again without a problem for probably one more week, and then the best happened. Driving down the road, get on it in first gear, and I hear a VERY loud KNOCK KNOCK KNOCK.
And here ensues my current build:
Well it turns out nothing was actually wrong with the motor. My knocking came from a couple of things. My patriot heads crapped out and totally exploded a valve guide, and I had flywheel bolts that were backing out. The motor was professionally inspected, and deemed all is well.
In the mean time of it being down, I did change ALOT to the setup. I picked up a pair of AFR 225cc (72cc) heads to replace the crap Patriots, and I decided I did not want to run the FAST 90 intake anymore, and wanted to try out the new Edelbrock Pro-flo manifold.
Also in the time that it was down, I decided to replace the turbo centers on the APS with the Kando Dynamic Centers. So my car will be kind of a test car for the Kando's, because as far as I have seen, NOBODY is running these Kando centers at anything beyond 8 psi.
So I will be testing the power potential and reliability of these.
So anyways, now here comes my boatload of pictures, of the last build. All of these were taken on my camera phone, so sorry about the quality.
Passenger Side Turbo system with the Fire extinguisher stuff on it, before cleaning and a little painting.
Close up of Passenger side turbo before cleaning.
Exhaust manifold cleaned up and ready to be painted.
After painting.
The girl helping me put the new Kando Centers in.
Everything pulled out of the engine bay, and it all sanded ready for the primer.
Masked, and after the first coat of primer.
After first coat of flat black paint. (Bad picture)
Got this emblem for my birthday. Makes it a little less "sleeper" but I think it looks really good. The emblem actually came red in color, but I just gloss blacked it.
This is a good picture in the light of the engine bay completly done and painted. I liked how it turned out ALOT. Glad I took my friends advice to go through the trouble of painting it. And it makes it ALOT easier that I already had the engine out. You can also see the hole in the firewall before I got the block-off plate made.
This is just a pic I added of when we moved houses, and I took it to a shop where I finished building all the rest of it.
And here is where it sat where I finished the rest of it.
Interior shot of the block-off plate for the firewall. I guess it looks kind of bad in this shot. lol
Shot of the block-off plate for the firewall from the engine view. It turned out pretty nice indeed. Everyone tells me I should paint that black too, but I didnt mind. It kinda looks Au-naturale. You can see that it is actually 2 pieces of sheetmetal that I riveted together, because one single by itself was not thick enough for NHRA standards.
The girl again double flaring the brake line ends for the SJM ABS delete install.
Working under the dash. Also can get a shot of the not yet finished gauge install and the radio/vent control delete.
Dash is completly back in the car.
First dropping the motor in.
Engine in shot 2.
Engine in shot 3? lol
Closeup shot.
T-56 all nice and cleaned up.
Engine ALMOST all the way in. We had quite a time to get that passenger side motor mount to line up, drop in, and slide the bolt through.
Cutting out the bumper.
Front shot with bumper cut out.
Side shot of the car. Hopefully it does this on it's own doing in not too much longer.
About 35 feet of 4 gauge wire for the battery relocation to the trunk.
Girl putting on driveshaft.
Passenger side shot of the motor + AFR's.
Top shot of motor.
Valve covers sand blasted and ready to be installed.
Edelbrock Pro-flo with rails on it. Looks puuuuuuuurdy! Very impressed with this intake.
Cowl cut and Pro-Flo sat in place unbolted.
Rails and injectors on.
This is a picture mostly to show how mis-aligned the intercooler exit to the intake is.
Car runs, but I didnt have the intercooler exit charge pipe made yet.
Our house... lol Roomates Procharged SS in front left, my daily driver Z28 front right, girlfriends vette back left, and the TA back right.
Picture of the intake pipe put on. What a wierd pipe. But take note APS owners that want to do the pro-flo. You are in for some fun. lol
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Well theres all of it. Hope you guys enjoyed the thread. I for one can not wait till its all dynoed. My 60# injectors are going to be the hold up for me, but hopefully I can push around 675 to the wheel on about 10-11 pounds of boost. Then I will wait to get bigger injectors, and switch to E85 to REALLY push the power up!
I bought the car back in 2006 as a mild H/C car from a member on this site. I did a LITTLE to it, but I soon decided that I wanted to go with some kind of FI. At first I thought I would build a big cube nitrous motor, but after thinking about it (and being reconfirmed by riding in my friends STS turbo car) I decided that I really did not want to spray down the freeway one night and then say, "Well that was fun! I really wish I could do that again, but my bottle is empty." I wanted the power to be on all the time. So I decided to do a turbo build. And there ensued the parts ordering. Here is what resulted:
- 370" Iron Balanced, blue printed and assembled short block. GM
6.0 L Iron block (new), GM nodular iron 3.622 stroke crankshaft,
Callies 6.125" H beam rods w/ ARP 2000 7/16" bolts, Wiseco
4.030" forged turbo duty pistons, Total Seal stainless chrome rings
(for high heat applications), Clevite MS 2199 Hmain brgs, Clevite
CB 663 H rod brgs, ARP main studs (Built by LME in Houston)
- Patriot Stg II 5.3 heads, milled to about 58cc (From old H/C build)
- APS Twin Turbo setup
- FAST 90/90
- McLeod Street Twin Disk Clutch
- Twin walbro 255lph in tank, 8AN feed, Magnafuel boost referenced FPR
- Trick flow High flow fuel rails
It took quite a long time, but I got it all together. Long story short, I get it dynoed at the numbers in my sig, and then bring it home. I had some problems with the car as the months went along. One being a broken valve spring.
Then one day one the most randomest problems EVER happened, the passenger side oil feed line I guess was not secured/positioned that well and was touching my starter, and arcing with the power wire from the battery. Well eventually it burned through the steel braided line and I was just pretty much pumping out oil all over the ground. Good thing I caught it right when it happened, the car started smoking when I was going down the highway. So I pull over in a parking lot and then pop the hood, and to my surprise, there is a small fire on the passenger side of the engine, around the turbo and starter area.
So I get a new passenger side oil feed line for it, and the car ran again without a problem for probably one more week, and then the best happened. Driving down the road, get on it in first gear, and I hear a VERY loud KNOCK KNOCK KNOCK.
And here ensues my current build:
Well it turns out nothing was actually wrong with the motor. My knocking came from a couple of things. My patriot heads crapped out and totally exploded a valve guide, and I had flywheel bolts that were backing out. The motor was professionally inspected, and deemed all is well.
In the mean time of it being down, I did change ALOT to the setup. I picked up a pair of AFR 225cc (72cc) heads to replace the crap Patriots, and I decided I did not want to run the FAST 90 intake anymore, and wanted to try out the new Edelbrock Pro-flo manifold.
Also in the time that it was down, I decided to replace the turbo centers on the APS with the Kando Dynamic Centers. So my car will be kind of a test car for the Kando's, because as far as I have seen, NOBODY is running these Kando centers at anything beyond 8 psi.
So I will be testing the power potential and reliability of these.
So anyways, now here comes my boatload of pictures, of the last build. All of these were taken on my camera phone, so sorry about the quality.
Passenger Side Turbo system with the Fire extinguisher stuff on it, before cleaning and a little painting.
Close up of Passenger side turbo before cleaning.
Exhaust manifold cleaned up and ready to be painted.
After painting.
The girl helping me put the new Kando Centers in.
Everything pulled out of the engine bay, and it all sanded ready for the primer.
Masked, and after the first coat of primer.
After first coat of flat black paint. (Bad picture)
Got this emblem for my birthday. Makes it a little less "sleeper" but I think it looks really good. The emblem actually came red in color, but I just gloss blacked it.
This is a good picture in the light of the engine bay completly done and painted. I liked how it turned out ALOT. Glad I took my friends advice to go through the trouble of painting it. And it makes it ALOT easier that I already had the engine out. You can also see the hole in the firewall before I got the block-off plate made.
This is just a pic I added of when we moved houses, and I took it to a shop where I finished building all the rest of it.
And here is where it sat where I finished the rest of it.
Interior shot of the block-off plate for the firewall. I guess it looks kind of bad in this shot. lol
Shot of the block-off plate for the firewall from the engine view. It turned out pretty nice indeed. Everyone tells me I should paint that black too, but I didnt mind. It kinda looks Au-naturale. You can see that it is actually 2 pieces of sheetmetal that I riveted together, because one single by itself was not thick enough for NHRA standards.
The girl again double flaring the brake line ends for the SJM ABS delete install.
Working under the dash. Also can get a shot of the not yet finished gauge install and the radio/vent control delete.
Dash is completly back in the car.
First dropping the motor in.
Engine in shot 2.
Engine in shot 3? lol
Closeup shot.
T-56 all nice and cleaned up.
Engine ALMOST all the way in. We had quite a time to get that passenger side motor mount to line up, drop in, and slide the bolt through.
Cutting out the bumper.
Front shot with bumper cut out.
Side shot of the car. Hopefully it does this on it's own doing in not too much longer.
About 35 feet of 4 gauge wire for the battery relocation to the trunk.
Girl putting on driveshaft.
Passenger side shot of the motor + AFR's.
Top shot of motor.
Valve covers sand blasted and ready to be installed.
Edelbrock Pro-flo with rails on it. Looks puuuuuuuurdy! Very impressed with this intake.
Cowl cut and Pro-Flo sat in place unbolted.
Rails and injectors on.
This is a picture mostly to show how mis-aligned the intercooler exit to the intake is.
Car runs, but I didnt have the intercooler exit charge pipe made yet.
Our house... lol Roomates Procharged SS in front left, my daily driver Z28 front right, girlfriends vette back left, and the TA back right.
Picture of the intake pipe put on. What a wierd pipe. But take note APS owners that want to do the pro-flo. You are in for some fun. lol
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Well theres all of it. Hope you guys enjoyed the thread. I for one can not wait till its all dynoed. My 60# injectors are going to be the hold up for me, but hopefully I can push around 675 to the wheel on about 10-11 pounds of boost. Then I will wait to get bigger injectors, and switch to E85 to REALLY push the power up!
12-20-2011, 06:30 PM
#4
Is that your girlfriend helping you work on your car? If she is...then I have to say that I'm even more impressed with the whole idea of....your girlfriend that actually helps you work on your car than the "build" itself. Lucky bastard!
Lol! Anyway, nice job! Keep us posted with the result. BTW, what's the difference between the kandos centers compared to stock APS?
Lol! Anyway, nice job! Keep us posted with the result. BTW, what's the difference between the kandos centers compared to stock APS? 
12-21-2011, 02:44 AM
#7
When I attempt to think of the time, effort, and money involved in this project it just boggles my mind. That looks awesome man. Props to your lady for getting involved, she's a keeper for sure. Your dyno video is probably gonna be my spank fodder for a while, just letting you know.
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12-21-2011, 04:59 PM
#9
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looks good all for except that piece of intake pipe id hack that intake piece off and fab something nicer up...that would bug the hell out of me....but thats me
12-23-2011, 11:29 AM
#13
Originally Posted by blue00ZZleeper
Nice Jordan. Glad to see your finally doing a thread after ALL of this lol....it has been a long time coming.
Originally Posted by 2000RATA
Great build. I love seeing twins. You should have no trouble with that goal. I gotta say though you should be buying the 90#ers now and going e85! Why wait!
Originally Posted by kmracer
are you planning on changing the worm clamps on the charge pipe?
12-23-2011, 09:45 PM
#20
