6.0L f1procharger build and real cost to do a s/c VIDEO
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6.0L f1procharger build and real cost to do a s/c VIDEO
2000 trans am pro charger build. i had a problem a few months ago and found out i broke a spring in my heads on a cam ls1. So i figured like all car guys go big or go home right??? i had some tools and had a buddy help out. so i started out and bought a 6.0 ls1 iron block (truck) used to get a stable platform then forged all internals and Brute Speed FI cam. At the same time i bought a used F1 pro-charger w/twin intercoolers. so i looked into some stuff and decided i needed to do a fuel up grade so i went with a Lonnies performance set up and 80 lb injectors. Had a pair of kooks headers that i already had to put on so didn't count if in final coast. but everything else has been listed to get this done. Engine is almost done and will be installing asap. And my budget was $12-13k at the beginning just goes to show you will never hit you budget but will have one hell of a car. i think am going to sell some left over parts to bring down the coast some haha. I did all wrench work and then took the car to get an exhaust, tune and meth kit put in and done at Slowhawk Performance in MA. (Great shop and Don is one of the best in the business) Got it on the dyno to break it in and found out that around 6000 rpm fuel system dropped pressure so i decided to go with a meth kit to insure everything was going to work well in the long run. First run was 578 hp and 498 torque w/13 lbs of boost. Final numbers 620 rwhp 550 torque
Engine lift 239
engine stand 69.98
Recharge kit A/C, antifreeze, lug rench 94.64
Engine Plate 54
kooks Headers 1000
f1 Pro charger ket 3900
Fuel system 610.95
FI cam 389.99
6.0 ls1 iron block 800
mis. Tools 67
Aero Force Gauge 150
Forged Engine build 6784
Ijectors Seimens 80# Ev-1 379
"Aero Force wideband kit
Item# Sens020 " 200.6
Radiator Hold-down 73.18
Billit gauge adaptor 60.02
Slp thermostat 160 deg. 69.98
Auto meter boost gauge 118.87
Blox Vacuum Block 54.69
uhal trailer 59
Tune, exhaust, meth kit 3500
all coast 17674.9
Had a Lil Fun today, bought some new tires so had to finish off the old ones
https://vimeo.com/127076840
Tried to baby it a lil in 2nd haha
Engine lift 239
engine stand 69.98
Recharge kit A/C, antifreeze, lug rench 94.64
Engine Plate 54
kooks Headers 1000
f1 Pro charger ket 3900
Fuel system 610.95
FI cam 389.99
6.0 ls1 iron block 800
mis. Tools 67
Aero Force Gauge 150
Forged Engine build 6784
Ijectors Seimens 80# Ev-1 379
"Aero Force wideband kit
Item# Sens020 " 200.6
Radiator Hold-down 73.18
Billit gauge adaptor 60.02
Slp thermostat 160 deg. 69.98
Auto meter boost gauge 118.87
Blox Vacuum Block 54.69
uhal trailer 59
Tune, exhaust, meth kit 3500
all coast 17674.9
Had a Lil Fun today, bought some new tires so had to finish off the old ones
https://vimeo.com/127076840
Tried to baby it a lil in 2nd haha
Last edited by lbm13186; 05-06-2015 at 03:19 PM.
#2
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2000 trans am pro charger build. i had a problem a few months ago and found out i broke a spring in my heads on a cam ls1. So i figured like all car guys go big or go home right??? i had some tools and had a buddy help out. so i started out and bought a 6.0 ls1 iron block (truck) used to get a stable platform then forged all internals and Brute Speed FI cam. At the same time i bought a used F1 pro-charger w/twin intercoolers. so i looked into some stuff and decided i needed to do a fuel up grade so i went with a Lonnies performance set up and 80 lb injectors. Had a pair of kooks headers that i already had to put on so didn't count if in final coast. but everything else has been listed to get this done. Engine is almost done and will be installing asap. And my budget was $12-13k at the beginning just goes to show you will never hit you budget but will have one hell of a car. i think am going to sell some left over parts to bring down the coast some haha. I did all wrench work and then took the car to get an exhaust, tune and meth kit put in and done at Slowhawk Performance in MA. (Great shop and Don is one of the best in the business) Got it on the dyno to break it in and found out that around 6000 rpm fuel system dropped pressure so i decided to go with a meth kit to insure everything was going to work well in the long run. First run was 578 hp and 498 torque w/13 lbs of boost. Here are some pics
Engine lift 239
engine stand 69.98
Recharge kit A/C, antifreeze, lug rench 94.64
Engine Plate 54
kooks Headers 1000
f1 Pro charger ket 3900
Fuel system 610.95
FI cam 389.99
6.0 ls1 iron block 800
mis. Tools 67
Aero Force Gauge 150
Engine build 6784
Ijectors Seimens 80# Ev-1 379
"Aero Force wideband kit
Item# Sens020 " 200.6
Radiator Hold-down 73.18
Billit gauge adaptor 60.02
Slp thermostat 160 deg. 69.98
Auto meter boost gauge 118.87
Blox Vacuum Block 54.69
uhal trailer 59
Tune, exhaust, meth kit 3500
all coast 17674.9
Engine lift 239
engine stand 69.98
Recharge kit A/C, antifreeze, lug rench 94.64
Engine Plate 54
kooks Headers 1000
f1 Pro charger ket 3900
Fuel system 610.95
FI cam 389.99
6.0 ls1 iron block 800
mis. Tools 67
Aero Force Gauge 150
Engine build 6784
Ijectors Seimens 80# Ev-1 379
"Aero Force wideband kit
Item# Sens020 " 200.6
Radiator Hold-down 73.18
Billit gauge adaptor 60.02
Slp thermostat 160 deg. 69.98
Auto meter boost gauge 118.87
Blox Vacuum Block 54.69
uhal trailer 59
Tune, exhaust, meth kit 3500
all coast 17674.9
yeah it costs alot. I would expect more from 13 lbs. Wondering if you are fighting belt slip and restrcition from the twin intercoolers and inlet hat. You made less than I did with a d1 @9 lbs with a stock bottom end 346.
Your exhaust, meth, and tune seem high. Guess depends on the tuner, and what kind of exhaust and meth kit you bought.
Last edited by I8UR4RD; 01-30-2013 at 08:15 PM.
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ya im def loosing a lot w/ the twin intercoolers set up but wanted to at lease use the ones that i had and i didnt want to cut the support and pay the extra for the single intercooler that i didnt have rt now, next winter im going to do a single intercooler and a rearend... still got a lil ways to go w/ this project but i wanted to get it up and going this year but at the same time i didnt want to push it and blow it up b4 i really get to have fun w/ it... i figure after he gets it all tuned and meth ill be around the 650's those numbers were a basic and seating the rings
Last edited by lbm13186; 01-30-2013 at 09:10 PM.
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ya im def loosing a lot w/ the twin intercoolers set up but wanted to at lease use the ones that i had and i didnt want to cut the support and pay the extra for the single intercooler that i didnt have rt now, next winter im going to do a single intercooler and a rearend... still got a lil ways to go w/ this project but i wanted to get it up and going this year but at the same time i didnt want to push it and blow it up b4 i really get to have fun w/ it... i figure after he gets it all tuned and meth ill be around the 650's those numbers were a basic and seating the rings
look forward to your progress. be sure and update us all.
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its not stroked just forged, wanted to keep it stronger for now rather than stroking it and maybe having problems w/ it down the road... wanna drive it as much as possible for as long as possible
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havnt got the car back just yet, he did a pull today and found out i was loosing fuel pressure and decided to go with a meth kit (instead of just running a return line to keep the pressure up) and he's saying its around 1200 for the kit and to installed and it was 2200 for exhaust (after headers), electric cut out, tune and some mis things like alignment and he had to fix a few things that was not quite right like the vacuum system and a few other random thing (this was my first build so i got it started but everything wasnt exactly up to par for longevity haha did most of it myself and never pulled a engine or anything like that b4)
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A really good meth kit with all the bells and whistles won't even break 800 really. It also is very easy to install one. Unless it is a VERY nice, complete 304 stainless true dual exhaust that price seems kinda high for the work being performed/parts provided. For reference with a FMIC, my car made 706/641 on 13psi with meth/18*. Ovbiously every dyno is different but I'm sure you'll be closer to that ball park once you get it all ironed out.
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i dont think im getting robbed bc the old exhaust was a mess and he cut cats in half and welded them on for spot testing and ran electric cut out and the exhast that was on there was really messed up from b4 so he had to make all new brackets and that w/ extra meth for the year. tune and break in was 650 and thats w/ oil change (joe gibbs), survived the tranny and did a few other random thinks... this is on a mustang dyno to so there is some of the loss but i think when the meth gets in and he can mess w/ the timing a lil ill b right in that 700 range
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Think he said it was 11 w/ out the meth so we will c exactly what's what next week, I know it's a Lil pricey but that what I get for being in the north east and iv hear of awful stories that ppl get their cars done and take them to a shop o get dynoed and pop their engines from ppl not not breaking them in rt or to much timing ect... Rather that not happen and pay a Lil more, plus like I said first build and def learned from it so all around I think it's not a bad build if I can keep it going a make it faster in the future
#15
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There is alot more in the cost than whats listed. Fixed alot of stuff.About 12 hr's fixing including re doing the blower install to align correctly and change the tensioner setup.Rplaced a header gasket that blew out ect. The build itself was very good for a first time. Exhaust had no stock hangers. Cutout was tig welded in.
The F1 blower does not shine under spinning it. Usually the F1a or F1d is alot better choice for lower boost levels. Inlet temps were almost 150 degree's at the end of the pulls. Car was set at 14 degree's timing up top. Mind you this is the first time the motor ever ran and was still brand new.
We will install the Alky control methenol setup which will drop inlet temp alot. This will help power on our Mustang dyno.
Blower setup is a stock 8 rib procharger bracket, stock dual intercoolers with stock bypass valve and the stock procharger inlet hat. Alot of stress on those parts but the belt is not slipping. Opening up the intercooler setup with a bigger valve, open up the inlet would net a good gain but also a decent cost.
The F1 blower does not shine under spinning it. Usually the F1a or F1d is alot better choice for lower boost levels. Inlet temps were almost 150 degree's at the end of the pulls. Car was set at 14 degree's timing up top. Mind you this is the first time the motor ever ran and was still brand new.
We will install the Alky control methenol setup which will drop inlet temp alot. This will help power on our Mustang dyno.
Blower setup is a stock 8 rib procharger bracket, stock dual intercoolers with stock bypass valve and the stock procharger inlet hat. Alot of stress on those parts but the belt is not slipping. Opening up the intercooler setup with a bigger valve, open up the inlet would net a good gain but also a decent cost.
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I've never read of anyone getting ripped off by Don. Hell he always seems to be the cheapest for a professional shop these days. Always positive comments from friends coming out of there. Whatever he charged you it was probably for a very good reason and justified. Nice build so far! You need to do some upgrading to the intercooler and inlet hat later on and it will really pickup some power!
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Wish we could get the hourly wage.
We are very cheap compared to any shop in the NE. Couple that with the experience that we avoided alot of issues with this car, it saves the customer alot of $$. You never really know unless you went to another shop or already got taken from one.
Last comparable job like this cost the customer over $6k(we still lost money on time) because everything the customer did was wrong. This build was 100% better.
Also, the customer is great to work with. I just wanted to post in here so nobody gets the wrong idea of what our part of the job is.
We all know how the internet can go. LOL
We are very cheap compared to any shop in the NE. Couple that with the experience that we avoided alot of issues with this car, it saves the customer alot of $$. You never really know unless you went to another shop or already got taken from one.
Last comparable job like this cost the customer over $6k(we still lost money on time) because everything the customer did was wrong. This build was 100% better.
Also, the customer is great to work with. I just wanted to post in here so nobody gets the wrong idea of what our part of the job is.
We all know how the internet can go. LOL
Last edited by Slowhawk; 02-01-2013 at 11:13 AM.
#19
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LOL...
Yeah they NEVER come in under budget, unless doing the junk yard thing and doing all the labor/tuning yourself....
I had a budget of $12k to rebuild/upgrade mine after I broke pistons in the stock motor with a D1SC.... Well.. the project snowballed out of control. And I ended up tripling my budget(literally)... But I paid for labor on everything...
I don't regret it but I definitely good have done it cheaper....I did all of the "reliability" mods and a lot of "show" type stuff that didnt add any power but racked up the costs big time...I could have definitely cut that stuff out but... I'm happy with it so..... screw it.
Yeah they NEVER come in under budget, unless doing the junk yard thing and doing all the labor/tuning yourself....
I had a budget of $12k to rebuild/upgrade mine after I broke pistons in the stock motor with a D1SC.... Well.. the project snowballed out of control. And I ended up tripling my budget(literally)... But I paid for labor on everything...
I don't regret it but I definitely good have done it cheaper....I did all of the "reliability" mods and a lot of "show" type stuff that didnt add any power but racked up the costs big time...I could have definitely cut that stuff out but... I'm happy with it so..... screw it.
#20
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Just to clarify, when I said it's expensive, I meant going FI and running a Procharger in general. It wasn't directed at his bill. I refuse to add up what I have in my setup, to which I did all of the labor expcept prepping the block, because I just don't want to know what the total is. I paid cash up front for everything as I had it, and it's really my one and only vice, so I don't want to feel guilty.
But again, a well setup Procharged ride is one hell of a lot of fun. I'd do it all over again if I had a choice.
But again, a well setup Procharged ride is one hell of a lot of fun. I'd do it all over again if I had a choice.