LT1 will not Rev past 4500 RPM
08-16-2013, 03:00 PM
#61
You know, I was just thinking. Since your engine doesn't appear to go into closed loop, maybe *that* is why your tuner put the 'enable WOT KPA' up there at 80 KPA. That way, it wouldn't use the PE tables (Cell 18) till you got into the throttle a bit. Might try that before you go chasing other things. Simple change. If you're not sure where that is, or don't have your original file, I'll send it to you .
08-16-2013, 05:40 PM
#62
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running rich.... I swapped out the passenger side O2 sensor with a new one and bumped the constant for the injector size up from 42 to 46. Still very rich!
I am going to swap the MAF sensor back out with the JET unit right now also. The problem with the JET unit is it does not have a air flow direction indicator on it, so I am not sure that is as relevant as it is with the stock units. Do you have any idea on that?
I had to rename the zip file to an efi so I could upload a file of this size. You can just rename it to a .zip to get to the .uni
Thanks again
I am going to swap the MAF sensor back out with the JET unit right now also. The problem with the JET unit is it does not have a air flow direction indicator on it, so I am not sure that is as relevant as it is with the stock units. Do you have any idea on that?
I had to rename the zip file to an efi so I could upload a file of this size. You can just rename it to a .zip to get to the .uni
Thanks again
08-16-2013, 08:48 PM
#63
This is better. The O2's are much more in line.
Left O2 mV Right O2 mV
mV mV
928.0 928.0
928.0 928.0
932.0 928.0
941.0 928.0
937.0 928.0
897.0 928.0
928.0 928.0
That's left and right at warm idle.
Your MAF GmSec is still 3 times what mine is at idle.
Your Inj pulsewidths still, in comparison to mine, are higher but that may be valid with the smaller injector. Just not sure yet. And.. it may be related to the MAF readings. Please do try the stock MAF and take a logging run . Thanks.
Left O2 mV Right O2 mV
mV mV
928.0 928.0
928.0 928.0
932.0 928.0
941.0 928.0
937.0 928.0
897.0 928.0
928.0 928.0
That's left and right at warm idle.
Your MAF GmSec is still 3 times what mine is at idle.
Your Inj pulsewidths still, in comparison to mine, are higher but that may be valid with the smaller injector. Just not sure yet. And.. it may be related to the MAF readings. Please do try the stock MAF and take a logging run . Thanks.
08-17-2013, 09:45 AM
#64
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log runs... The last one I sent was with the stock "Ported" MAF. I think I will throw the JET back in with no other changes to see if there is a difference. The only problem I have with the JET is I bought it used, and there is no direction orientation on it. Maybe a sticker was peeled off or fell off. So I may have to just do two runs and see if there is any difference.
08-17-2013, 10:08 AM
#65
Morning. Seeing the above, I went into your original tune again and compared the 4 MAF tables against a stock profile and my own. Mine are stock but yours are all rescaled (except one) to like 96% of stock. Could you try your stock MAF with my tune I sent you and your injector constant set to 47 to and log that? Even just like 30 seconds of idle. I want to see if we can get your idle GmSec in the MAF column down to the 11,12 gm level like my car has. BTW, what state do you live within? I have an unused MAF translator I could send you to test with. That way, while the motor is running you can change dials and test leaner/richer, more timing, less timing.
08-17-2013, 08:06 PM
#67
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another run... Here is another run with the mighty tune and 47lb injectors as the constant, no other changes. The drivability is much better. It doesn't seem to want to die all the time. It doesn't seem near as rich loading up either. The power on the other hand is way down, but I guess I need to worry about drivability first otherwise the rest is meaningless....
Also, what is the MAF translator?
You need to start logging your hours so I know what type of gift certificates to get you too!
You are too kind!
Also, what is the MAF translator?
You need to start logging your hours so I know what type of gift certificates to get you too!
You are too kind!
08-18-2013, 09:29 AM
#68
Thanks. I looked at this around midnite (still visiting here with my sweet daughter that is deploying next week) and I see that the fuel is getting much much better at idle. Now seeing it at 1.6 instead of the 4's and 5's at idle. The MAF signal is still higher than my readings by about double if not triple. Maybe that's normal for a blower car compared to a turbo.
The reason you're feeling the power go down is that you're getting knock retard.
This occurred the instant you stomped the gas, going from 38% throttle to 100%. What's nice though is that the knock count doesn't increase one bit after that 'burst knock' occurred right as you transitioned from 38% up. So it's not 'spark knock'.
I see from the (fuel) cell activity that you're in closed loop. Your left and right fueling are different when you're cruising (out of Power Enrichment mode) for some reason. When I filter the MPH to >= 20 and <=30 and you're pressing/holding the gas to stay around that speed, your left injector duty cycle is consistently higher than your right by as much as 9%(example: Left DC = 25%, Right DC = 15.9). My own car has this phenomena so I have run it in Open loop Only for years. MUCH smoother and predictable fueling that way. Could you try that and see how she runs?
I've reset a few things and would like you to try this but not at WOT just yet. Just normal driving up to speed limits. Maybe marginal aggressive but not drag race style.
I've;
Reset "Enabled WOT KPA" and set it back to 80kpa like your original tune.
Set your injector constant back to 46
Set your "Minimum Coolant temp for Closed Loop" = 116
Set your "Minimum Coolant temp for Closed Loop, cold MAT" = 116
These last two will make sure you stay in open loop. The drivability should be much better provided it's not over fueling.
Save it, then load it and take a logging run. If it seems right off the bat to be too rich, then make it a short drive and send the log to me.
Where is your air filter? Lol.. On this last datamaster logging run, at the beginning of your 100% throttle your IAT(intake air temperature) is 127 degrees but by the end of the 100%, it's down to 81 degrees. Looks like your intercooler is working well.
http://www.taekwondoplus.org/z28/Tur...94_Tune_02.bin
BTW- A MAF translator is a device that plugs in-between your MAF sensor and the harness. It intercepts the 'real' signal and modifies it via built in circuitry before the signal reaches the PCM. In effect, it 'lies' to the PCM, making it think either more or less air is passing into the motor. You, the user, have access to a couple of ***** inside the box. Using these, you can attenuate the fuel to be percentages more rich or more lean. It is made substantial enough to stay in place in your engine compartment and live full time. I look at it more as a diagnostic to see if the MAF tables need rescaling one way or the other to achieve a given result.
The reason you're feeling the power go down is that you're getting knock retard.
This occurred the instant you stomped the gas, going from 38% throttle to 100%. What's nice though is that the knock count doesn't increase one bit after that 'burst knock' occurred right as you transitioned from 38% up. So it's not 'spark knock'.
I see from the (fuel) cell activity that you're in closed loop. Your left and right fueling are different when you're cruising (out of Power Enrichment mode) for some reason. When I filter the MPH to >= 20 and <=30 and you're pressing/holding the gas to stay around that speed, your left injector duty cycle is consistently higher than your right by as much as 9%(example: Left DC = 25%, Right DC = 15.9). My own car has this phenomena so I have run it in Open loop Only for years. MUCH smoother and predictable fueling that way. Could you try that and see how she runs?
I've reset a few things and would like you to try this but not at WOT just yet. Just normal driving up to speed limits. Maybe marginal aggressive but not drag race style.
I've;
Reset "Enabled WOT KPA" and set it back to 80kpa like your original tune.
Set your injector constant back to 46
Set your "Minimum Coolant temp for Closed Loop" = 116
Set your "Minimum Coolant temp for Closed Loop, cold MAT" = 116
These last two will make sure you stay in open loop. The drivability should be much better provided it's not over fueling.
Save it, then load it and take a logging run. If it seems right off the bat to be too rich, then make it a short drive and send the log to me.
Where is your air filter? Lol.. On this last datamaster logging run, at the beginning of your 100% throttle your IAT(intake air temperature) is 127 degrees but by the end of the 100%, it's down to 81 degrees. Looks like your intercooler is working well.
http://www.taekwondoplus.org/z28/Tur...94_Tune_02.bin
BTW- A MAF translator is a device that plugs in-between your MAF sensor and the harness. It intercepts the 'real' signal and modifies it via built in circuitry before the signal reaches the PCM. In effect, it 'lies' to the PCM, making it think either more or less air is passing into the motor. You, the user, have access to a couple of ***** inside the box. Using these, you can attenuate the fuel to be percentages more rich or more lean. It is made substantial enough to stay in place in your engine compartment and live full time. I look at it more as a diagnostic to see if the MAF tables need rescaling one way or the other to achieve a given result.
Last edited by mightyquickz28; 08-18-2013 at 09:35 AM.
08-18-2013, 10:23 AM
#69
I do have to say, your original tune you sent me has some really aggressive timing. More aggressive than stock by far in the 20 thru 60 KPA, and almost one for one with stock above that. I would normally expect for a power adder car to be 'less' aggessive.
That may be another part of the reason my settings seem to display less power.
For instance;
Stock file: RPM = 6500, KPA = 80, Spark Advance = 38
Your file: RPM = 6500, KPA = 80, Spark Advance = 37 (supercharged)
My file: RPM = 6500, KPA = 80, Spark Advance = 24 (Turbocharged)
Stock file: RPM = 6500, KPA = 100, Spark Advance = 36
Your file: RPM = 6500, KPA = 100, Spark Advance = 35 (supercharged)
My file: RPM = 6500, KPA = 100, Spark Advance = 17 (Turbocharged)
At one point in your most recent log, you were at 100% throttle, 4800 RPM and it was administering 43 degrees of advance. That can be because not only do you have two 'main' spark tables but other spark advance 'offsets' that are triggered by events. Scary....
Once you can get your wide band installed, perhaps we can go to the 2 bar SD setup which will make your street driving so much more responsive. Refining the WOT will take some testing/tuning but we could get it right.
That may be another part of the reason my settings seem to display less power.
For instance;
Stock file: RPM = 6500, KPA = 80, Spark Advance = 38
Your file: RPM = 6500, KPA = 80, Spark Advance = 37 (supercharged)
My file: RPM = 6500, KPA = 80, Spark Advance = 24 (Turbocharged)
Stock file: RPM = 6500, KPA = 100, Spark Advance = 36
Your file: RPM = 6500, KPA = 100, Spark Advance = 35 (supercharged)
My file: RPM = 6500, KPA = 100, Spark Advance = 17 (Turbocharged)
At one point in your most recent log, you were at 100% throttle, 4800 RPM and it was administering 43 degrees of advance. That can be because not only do you have two 'main' spark tables but other spark advance 'offsets' that are triggered by events. Scary....
Once you can get your wide band installed, perhaps we can go to the 2 bar SD setup which will make your street driving so much more responsive. Refining the WOT will take some testing/tuning but we could get it right.
08-18-2013, 01:26 PM
#70
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New tune... Thank you again Dave. I will get this loaded up shortly and take a logging run. I will definitely keep out of the throttle too. I'm sure I've been pushing my luck on the with the amount of advance I am running. Not to mention the local police probably wouldn't approve....
On the aggressive timing. I think a big portion of that may be due to my original file I have for the car, may have retained the HyperTech programmer tune I bought for it shortly after I bought the car. I ended up selling the HyperTech on Ebay and detuned it since they locked to a single vehicle, but I did see a few articles out there that they would not always set things back to their stock values. Have you ever heard anything on that?
I do also have a Snow Performance methanol injection system on the car. That could be a reason why we see no major increase in the knock sensor. I have it set to come in at 2lbs. of boost currently.
On the aggressive timing. I think a big portion of that may be due to my original file I have for the car, may have retained the HyperTech programmer tune I bought for it shortly after I bought the car. I ended up selling the HyperTech on Ebay and detuned it since they locked to a single vehicle, but I did see a few articles out there that they would not always set things back to their stock values. Have you ever heard anything on that?
I do also have a Snow Performance methanol injection system on the car. That could be a reason why we see no major increase in the knock sensor. I have it set to come in at 2lbs. of boost currently.
10-09-2013, 09:11 PM
#73
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I've been going through this same problem where my car will only go to 4800 rpm and it like the blow off valve open and loses all the power I've Been puzzle for about a year after reading this it kinda make sense that orange hose is collapsing.I found when I had my maf on the suction side my car ran really rich and when I put it on the pursuer side it didn't run rich and ran a lot better. Here a video of what my car doing it I never let off the throttle it would just stop.
