rpm-inc

iTrader: (2)

First post. 1994 9c1 that a friend and I are doing. Bought a 2003 Express 3500 for the engine and trans. Parting it out to get the engine and trans for free....hopefully... still have some doors and rear axle...

New twin on3 70mm. Barely used (supposedly) 120 low z with a versafueler. Prototype intercooler from my friends shop that was about to get tossed. LS1 intake with stock truck throttle body. Speedinc tu1.5 cam, springs, pushrods.

Here is where I am at. Budget build using stuff I already have. Bought a couple bends locally..







Let me know what you think... Gonna have a whole lot of questions.

aknovaman

iTrader: (7)

Where are you located?

rpm-inc

iTrader: (2)

Outside of chicago, 60185

rpm-inc

iTrader: (2)

I had a tial 44mm that I used on driver side. I also have a tial 38mm. Is that enough gate for the passenger side?

oscs

iTrader: (19)

Yes, not to mention your placement is much more efficent there.

rpm-inc

iTrader: (2)

Cool, thanks.

Gonna need to get some pipe wrap....

JAX04

iTrader: (17)

kudos for actually taking the time and putting the gates in the proper positions on your budget build. nice to see people think things through and not just stick them anywhere....

rpm-inc

iTrader: (2)

I read corkys book, lol

rpm-inc

iTrader: (2)

Anybody have an idea for a trans dipstick seeing my pics? I was going to try to use at least the first section of the truck tube, but it didn't make it through the trans install...

Thinking about not even using a dipstick, welding a fitting on the side of the pan, and using a sight tube. Get a plug for the dipstick tube hole. Could pump fluid in through there.

krwyellowZ28

iTrader: (10)

Don't make life hard on yourself... buy a decent dipstick/tube.

Project/progress looks great, but I'm a little pissed... I was hoping to have one of the first twin turbo 6.0/80e b-body cars in the midwest come next spring. lol

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Looks great! Why not rotate the DP to fire under the car though? That down pipe looks like it's going to make working on the car a pain! Not to mention cause heat issues. If you were to fire it down with a cutout and then "T" off of it pre-cutout to a small diameter pipe you should be able to snake it under the car really easily. I have my 4" DP with a 2" kickout on it. With the dump closed the car is very quiet.

Just a thought...

rpm-inc

iTrader: (2)

I am sure you car is nicer. I misspelled the title on purpose.
Here is the plate I am getting.




Gonna drive it for a while and swap it all into a nice fleetwood or roadmaster.




Damn I like that idea....My initial plan was to go down and then out by the front wheel. Then I thought it would be too annoying after a while. So I went over the top. Wasn't worried about working on it. That section would come off with vbands. The heat did concern me. Not having to wrap that thing would almost buy a cutout, lol.

For some reason I always thought of cutouts to just bypass the muffler. Did I say I really like your idea? How fast do those things open? How is yours actuated? With a pressure switch @ 1 or 2 psi? Which one you running?

2" should be fine? I imagine it only takes 75-100 horsepower to cruise @ 75-80? Thanks!

krwyellowZ28

iTrader: (10)

Hahahaha... love that plate! What is your goal time frame?

Here's the plate that's coming for my car. I wanted it to be as unassuming as possible.

rpm-inc

iTrader: (2)

Nice! Goal was to have it running yesterday, lol. Doing an hour or 2 at night, then long weekends. Probably still gonna be another 2 months. Sending you a pm.

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

I went with an electric cutout on a rocker switch. Takes about 8-9 seconds to open/close.

I run A 10:1 5.3 and 2" seems fine but I only run a short 5-6" length of it. If you plan to run a full system I'd maybe go 2.25"

I went with these guys. They have great customer service. They even have a 5" dump now.

http://www.badlanzhpe.com/


I always liked this setup.






This is my whole exhaust system... Trapped 150mph with it in the quarter last weekend. With the dump closed it's quiet enough to have a conversation in the cab. I wanted to toss a 2.25" tractor muffler on it down the road.

rpm-inc

iTrader: (2)

I have the holley 302-1 pan. Does anybody know if their is room to notch the front of the pan for center link clearance. I don't know if their is room with the pick up tube. I wish I got the 302-2 pan. That would fit fine. Or I could try shimming the engine up, but not sure if everything would still line up.

rpm-inc

iTrader: (2)

Dropped back in fine with 1/2" spacers (nuts) between block and mount. Forgot the dirty dingo mounts were slotted. Plenty of clearance now. Probably do something 1/4-3/8 later permanently.

rpm-inc

iTrader: (2)

Got my 4" cutout as suggested by ff86.
Cut up the crossmember and rebuilt it with stuff laying around, including 1.25 electrical conduit. Not the prettiest thing, but it works.


Tried to modify truck throttle cable to work and it didn't. Got a fbody bracket from the dealer for $14. Slight tweaks and it works with the factory lt1 cable and truck cruise.

rpm-inc

iTrader: (2)

I screwed up and pulled all the maf wires out of the harness before I realized the iat is integral. What wires do I need to wire in a separate iat? Just the 2 tan ones?

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

Yes, the other three only run the MAF.