SN95 5.3 TH400 3.27 build thread - 10.88/134.86 - NOW LQ9
11-19-2013, 12:20 PM
#21
Christmas in November 
Holley HP ecu and the ls1/6 harness, meth kit, and some other stuff. Probably could of used the Dominator ECU but the budget is what it is. The HP ecu has 4 inputs/outputs and I have all the outputs spoken for at this point (fan, meth pump, and the other 2 for the meth solenoids). I have a 2nd fuel pump which needs to be activated somehow, guess I'll tie that into the meth trigger wire and have them both come in at the same time. The meth kit (especially the pump) seems like its real nice quality compared to some other kits I've seen (especially the pump) but what the hell do I know.
I want to thank Doug F from Holley for answering all my constant amateur questions regarding this stuff.
Can finally get this pig fired-up!!!
Holley HP ecu and the ls1/6 harness, meth kit, and some other stuff. Probably could of used the Dominator ECU but the budget is what it is. The HP ecu has 4 inputs/outputs and I have all the outputs spoken for at this point (fan, meth pump, and the other 2 for the meth solenoids). I have a 2nd fuel pump which needs to be activated somehow, guess I'll tie that into the meth trigger wire and have them both come in at the same time. The meth kit (especially the pump) seems like its real nice quality compared to some other kits I've seen (especially the pump) but what the hell do I know.
I want to thank Doug F from Holley for answering all my constant amateur questions regarding this stuff.
Can finally get this pig fired-up!!!
11-19-2013, 08:42 PM
#25
Pump = 200.00
solenoids = 200.00/ea
install kit = 140.00
peak/hold module = 80.00
http://www.holley.com/types/Water%20...Components.asp
Don't think you need the module, and I probably don't need (2) 1000cc nozzles, maybe one would of sufficed but it was borderline so I got both.
What's nice is that the ecu will control all aspects of the meth inject and I can datalog it.
11-20-2013, 12:12 AM
#26
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FWIW-I would run your second pump on a hobbs switch. Simple to wire and just need a port off the intake to reference. I had a 5lbs hobbs switch for my second fuel pump initially. I now have both running at the same time.
I plan to ad a meth kit to mine down the line also but will only need one solenoid if I do since I run E85.
I plan to ad a meth kit to mine down the line also but will only need one solenoid if I do since I run E85.
11-20-2013, 06:14 AM
#29
I thought about that Del but really just tieing in the 2nd pump to the meth trigger wire does the same. Or, I could tie the meth pump to the 2nd pump trigger - they both come on at the same time. I could always put the fan on its own deal and free-up another i/o if necessary, or even do the hobbs switch to free-up another i/o again for if I ever feel brave enough for boost control.
11-20-2013, 06:31 AM
#30
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I thought about that Del but really just tieing in the 2nd pump to the meth trigger wire does the same. Or, I could tie the meth pump to the 2nd pump trigger - they both come on at the same time. I could always put the fan on its own deal and free-up another i/o if necessary, or even do the hobbs switch to free-up another i/o again for if I ever feel brave enough for boost control.
11-28-2013, 09:50 PM
#32
Got her fired-up!!!
But, this wasn't w/o issue. I had some sort of miss and a nasty hesitation when winging the throttle. I could only muster 40 kpa at 700-750 idle (which translates to about 18" of vac which I thought was low), pulling about 6 lbs/hr and an inject PW of 2.3. I was like what the F! Turns out, the heads/coil weren't gounded good enough! I put a set of jumper cables from the coil packs to a ground and the damn engine near jumped-out of the engine bay! Kpa went to 30 (20" of vac), lbs/hr dropped to 3.5, PW 1.3. What a difference. I have 1 or 2 awg wire to the block and the starter works great, but some how the heads just aren't grounded good enough. Plugs are fouled unfortunately after this fiasco, going to get a new set tomorrow. Pretty lucky I figured this out.
Otherwise, there a couple of coolant leaks I need to investigate and some squeaks. Then I'm going to drop the trans off to the shop to get built.
But, this wasn't w/o issue. I had some sort of miss and a nasty hesitation when winging the throttle. I could only muster 40 kpa at 700-750 idle (which translates to about 18" of vac which I thought was low), pulling about 6 lbs/hr and an inject PW of 2.3. I was like what the F! Turns out, the heads/coil weren't gounded good enough! I put a set of jumper cables from the coil packs to a ground and the damn engine near jumped-out of the engine bay! Kpa went to 30 (20" of vac), lbs/hr dropped to 3.5, PW 1.3. What a difference. I have 1 or 2 awg wire to the block and the starter works great, but some how the heads just aren't grounded good enough. Plugs are fouled unfortunately after this fiasco, going to get a new set tomorrow. Pretty lucky I figured this out.
Otherwise, there a couple of coolant leaks I need to investigate and some squeaks. Then I'm going to drop the trans off to the shop to get built.
11-28-2013, 09:56 PM
#33
Bottom line, get whatever car you want and make your own mounts. Making a hotside is much more difficult that making up mounts.
11-28-2013, 10:30 PM
#34
I think when you get to '96 the cars all have the same K, which is why I wanted a 96. But looking back, I should of just used regular sbc adapter/mounts and some round tubing and just welded the tubing to whatever K is there and been done with it. These 4.6 mount adapters IMO are a giant PIA b/c everytime you put the motor in it doesn't go back in the same place b/c the K has slots. This is bad b/c when you build a hotside/downpipe and clearance is tight, you don't want **** moving around. Plus, I think using the 4.6 adapters make the engine sit higher than needed.
Bottom line, get whatever car you want and make your own mounts. Making a hotside is much more difficult that making up mounts.
Bottom line, get whatever car you want and make your own mounts. Making a hotside is much more difficult that making up mounts.
Thanks for the help!
Keep it up with the sweet sn95 build!
12-19-2013, 09:21 AM
#38
Just waiting for my wife to spread her....wallet!!!
Figure a couple more months to complete.
I need a trans/coverter - ~2000.00
Driveshaft - ~400.00
Rear parts/axles ~ 800.00
Set of drag radials ~500.00
So another ~3700.00 +/-
I also need to figure out how to handle the gauge package. Doesnt look like I can get the Ford cluster to work based on my research, if anybody has any insight I'd appreciate it. If I can at least get the speedo working that would be great. I can deal with a column mounted tach and boost gauge.
Another question is wheels. For a 90% street car, do you guys think I'm better off getting a set of 17" wheels/tires to help keep the car glued down better vs the 15" wheels I have now?
Figure a couple more months to complete.
I need a trans/coverter - ~2000.00
Driveshaft - ~400.00
Rear parts/axles ~ 800.00
Set of drag radials ~500.00
So another ~3700.00 +/-
I also need to figure out how to handle the gauge package. Doesnt look like I can get the Ford cluster to work based on my research, if anybody has any insight I'd appreciate it. If I can at least get the speedo working that would be great. I can deal with a column mounted tach and boost gauge.
Another question is wheels. For a 90% street car, do you guys think I'm better off getting a set of 17" wheels/tires to help keep the car glued down better vs the 15" wheels I have now?
12-21-2013, 08:39 AM
#39
Fired-up and running a 750 rpm idle, 21" of vac. Stock 5.3 with the LS6 cam.
Sucker sounds strong!!!
5.3 fire up - YouTube
Sucker sounds strong!!!
5.3 fire up - YouTube
