SOM LAG Project: 394ci, 25.3, Twin PT7675 Gen 2's, PG, E85, 7-second Street Car
10-20-2019, 09:21 AM
#702
I am not sure yet. A buddy just bought a set of scales and I will try to get the car on those this week.
10-20-2019, 09:42 AM
#703
An update not related to my car, but close enough and worth bringing up. Dale is a close family friend and used to tear around with my Dad back in their younger days. He has also been the one that has kept me interested in racing all the way back to watching those guys street race. And his boy Steven was the first one in our area that completed an LS turbo build. Basically, the downfall to my savings account. The Monte Carlo was on the trailer for the first season of Pinks back in the mid 2000s.
They decided to bring the Monte from a big block nitrous setup to a more street friend LS twin-turbo setup. The goal was to try to get this thing at least running and iron out the bugs before winter. The initial plan was to take much of Steven's short block and throw it in the car and see what happens. I offered up my brand new Brodix cathedrals to throw on there to squeeze some additional power over the planned 243's or 317's. Yes, that is right, what was I thinking to borrow my brand new, expensive cylinder heads! That is how tight we are in this group. I warned Steven that I only had two rules: don't wreck them, and I am there while he dyno's it.
Gen 3 6.0 Iron LS Block
Some ridiculous turbo camshaft
Brodix BR1-13 Cathedral 249cc Heads
A2A Intercooler
Twin S480's
We first got the car on the dyno on Thursday evening and ran into a few issues. We got those ironed out on Friday and started making pulls. Between Thursday and Friday, I saw 29 runs made on the dyno. Some of those were just small errors and whatnot, but we came up with some results that ended up really surprising us! We were able to end up making it to 33-34lbs of boost before we ran out of fuel pump.
The final numbers:
1493 wheel HP without adjustments.
1589 wheel HP STD adjusted.
The next step, let's see if we can get this thing to the track this year before the snow flies!
I will be so glad to see this car back out! And it will be as mean as it always has been.
The plans over the winter are to build an LSX block for this thing and to crank on the boost! It will be getting my FRH 237's that come off my car for the swap to the Brodix. Oh, and it sounds like it will need some additional fueling as well!
They decided to bring the Monte from a big block nitrous setup to a more street friend LS twin-turbo setup. The goal was to try to get this thing at least running and iron out the bugs before winter. The initial plan was to take much of Steven's short block and throw it in the car and see what happens. I offered up my brand new Brodix cathedrals to throw on there to squeeze some additional power over the planned 243's or 317's. Yes, that is right, what was I thinking to borrow my brand new, expensive cylinder heads! That is how tight we are in this group. I warned Steven that I only had two rules: don't wreck them, and I am there while he dyno's it.
Gen 3 6.0 Iron LS Block
Some ridiculous turbo camshaft
Brodix BR1-13 Cathedral 249cc Heads
A2A Intercooler
Twin S480's
We first got the car on the dyno on Thursday evening and ran into a few issues. We got those ironed out on Friday and started making pulls. Between Thursday and Friday, I saw 29 runs made on the dyno. Some of those were just small errors and whatnot, but we came up with some results that ended up really surprising us! We were able to end up making it to 33-34lbs of boost before we ran out of fuel pump.
The final numbers:
1493 wheel HP without adjustments.
1589 wheel HP STD adjusted.
The next step, let's see if we can get this thing to the track this year before the snow flies!
I will be so glad to see this car back out! And it will be as mean as it always has been.
The plans over the winter are to build an LSX block for this thing and to crank on the boost! It will be getting my FRH 237's that come off my car for the swap to the Brodix. Oh, and it sounds like it will need some additional fueling as well!
10-27-2019, 06:12 PM
#704
The 2019 race car season has officially come to an end. I didn't end up taking the car to Cedar Falls this weekend and many of the close tracks have closed for the year. I will try to get this thing scaled this week to get the official weight numbers.
I have a couple of things planned for 2020 and a couple that are still up in the air.
I am most likely going to pull the engine and have it freshened. It has been very solid for a couple of years and would be good to see what kind of condition everything is in. At that time, I will also switch to the Brodix Cylinder heads.
During my last couple of passes, I was seeing about 8% slip on the converter. I will probably hit up Dusty Bradford and see what his recommendations are and potentially send the converter in for a stator change.
I have already begun ordering fuel system parts. That doesn't seem to end. I should have just went mechanical last year when I had the pressure issues but the 5.0 pump was great, but just out of volume. I have ordered a new balancer with the cog drive and also ordered a cable drive assembly for the mechanical pump. I got in touch with Bob Ette with AEICNC and ordered his setup. Will be running the passenger side mounted setup with a pump located in the rear and driven with a cable. I also ordered a Waterman mini bertha fuel pump.
I recently sent Mike Kostick a message in regards to a carbon fiber wing. He isn't taking orders yet but is hoping to around Thanksgiving when he moves into a new shop.
Aside from that, just minor maintenance. I will most likely send my parachute to Stroud as the pilot is in very rough shape.
We will have to see what else comes up. Always keeping my eye out there for new products or good deals and never know what I will come up with.
I have a couple of things planned for 2020 and a couple that are still up in the air.
I am most likely going to pull the engine and have it freshened. It has been very solid for a couple of years and would be good to see what kind of condition everything is in. At that time, I will also switch to the Brodix Cylinder heads.
During my last couple of passes, I was seeing about 8% slip on the converter. I will probably hit up Dusty Bradford and see what his recommendations are and potentially send the converter in for a stator change.
I have already begun ordering fuel system parts. That doesn't seem to end. I should have just went mechanical last year when I had the pressure issues but the 5.0 pump was great, but just out of volume. I have ordered a new balancer with the cog drive and also ordered a cable drive assembly for the mechanical pump. I got in touch with Bob Ette with AEICNC and ordered his setup. Will be running the passenger side mounted setup with a pump located in the rear and driven with a cable. I also ordered a Waterman mini bertha fuel pump.
I recently sent Mike Kostick a message in regards to a carbon fiber wing. He isn't taking orders yet but is hoping to around Thanksgiving when he moves into a new shop.
Aside from that, just minor maintenance. I will most likely send my parachute to Stroud as the pilot is in very rough shape.
We will have to see what else comes up. Always keeping my eye out there for new products or good deals and never know what I will come up with.
10-28-2019, 09:06 PM
#705
I borrowed a set of scales and finally got the car weighed. Ended up coming in at 3424 lbs. I figure this is pretty close to raceweight. I added 5 gallons of fuel to it but also did not have any of my safety gear on. Would probably be a few pounds less but give or take 3400-3420.
Last edited by Only ERO's; 03-20-2020 at 02:22 PM.
11-02-2019, 11:02 PM
#706
Some of the parts for the 2020 Updates have started to roll in. The biggest plan is to change the fuel system from an electric pump to a mechanical pump setup.
The harmonic balancer I was running did not have the ability to have a new hub installed with a cog pulley for the belt drive. Will be pulley the old balancer off for the new one.
Ended up buying an ATI Fbody Balancer w/ 8mm HTD 25 tooth pulley #918852.
The next step was piecing together the Mechanical pump setup. I connected with Bob Ette with AEICNC to discuss the setup with him. When doing some searching on my own, it was a little confusing trying to identify what connectors or adaptors etc are needed. I figured I would simplify it and ended up ordering the entire setup from Bob. I got the LS passenger side block-mounted fuel pump cable drive assembly for < 13GPM fuel pumps. I also got the rear-mounted cable drive fuel pump adaptor/coupler/chassis mount for any 3 or 4-bolt hilborn-style mounting flange.
I discussed pump options with Bob and decided to go with the Waterman Mini Bertha Fuel pump #251100.
I had contacted Fore Innovations about my regulator after discussing the flow rates with Bob. I had great luck and always saw 1:1 rise with it, but figured I better change to a regulator that will handle to flow from a Mechanical drive. I had found a deal on the obnoxious Aeromotive 13113. I ordered it but was hesitant and figured I would probably order a different one. I ended up receiving an Aeromotive Extreme Flow EFI Regulator #13133 and going to stay with this one. It's rated to handle 7-26 GPM Fuel Pumps
Should start with some of the changes soon. Will get the entire fuel system mocked up and measure for the belt and cable lengths.
The harmonic balancer I was running did not have the ability to have a new hub installed with a cog pulley for the belt drive. Will be pulley the old balancer off for the new one.
Ended up buying an ATI Fbody Balancer w/ 8mm HTD 25 tooth pulley #918852.
The next step was piecing together the Mechanical pump setup. I connected with Bob Ette with AEICNC to discuss the setup with him. When doing some searching on my own, it was a little confusing trying to identify what connectors or adaptors etc are needed. I figured I would simplify it and ended up ordering the entire setup from Bob. I got the LS passenger side block-mounted fuel pump cable drive assembly for < 13GPM fuel pumps. I also got the rear-mounted cable drive fuel pump adaptor/coupler/chassis mount for any 3 or 4-bolt hilborn-style mounting flange.
I discussed pump options with Bob and decided to go with the Waterman Mini Bertha Fuel pump #251100.
I had contacted Fore Innovations about my regulator after discussing the flow rates with Bob. I had great luck and always saw 1:1 rise with it, but figured I better change to a regulator that will handle to flow from a Mechanical drive. I had found a deal on the obnoxious Aeromotive 13113. I ordered it but was hesitant and figured I would probably order a different one. I ended up receiving an Aeromotive Extreme Flow EFI Regulator #13133 and going to stay with this one. It's rated to handle 7-26 GPM Fuel Pumps
Should start with some of the changes soon. Will get the entire fuel system mocked up and measure for the belt and cable lengths.
11-15-2019, 10:41 PM
#707
Decided not to run the Aeromotive #13133 Regulator. Switched from the #13133 to the #13132. The only difference is there were only 2 feed ports on the new one compared to 5 on the #13133.
We spent last week and got the new mechanical pump setup installed. We basically set the new Waterman pump where the Aeromotive 5.0 came off. This allowed us to be able to use all of the same plumbing.
This entire setup was extremely simple for install. I highly recommend contacting Bob Ette with AEICNC for any of the mechanical setups. We had everything installed and measured the length of the cable. That piece is a brute and pretty heavy duty. Also measured for the belt length (and delayed a week based on incorrect measurements the first time).
Finally opened the fuel shutoff valve, and primed the pump and had a fitting that was leaking. Replaced that with a new one. Went to start the car and the battery was low. Ended up being another hour delay to charge that. Finally got to turning it over and got it to fire off and was idling at 50psi consistently. It is really strange to not have the sound of an electric pump when turning the ignition on. Just silence.
One of the other things we noticed on some of the datalogs was the IAT's I was seeing. The turbo layout isn't the best based on the location of the radiator. The fresh air intakes to the turbos are getting the air from the radiator. We were brainstorming a couple of ideas to get the IAT's more reasonable. Relocating the radiator to the rear was one idea, another is laying the radiator down.
I never had cutout the two nose pieces on my Joe Van O hood. We started with that. We also build a shroud to direct air directly to the air filters. We took some thin aluminum and installed between the front bumper and the top of the radiator.
No idea if this will work or how much it will work, but seemed like the simplest thing right away. I know it won't do anything as well as moving the radiator but I really don't want to have to go through the fabrication of that. Not sure what color I will paint the aluminum. Deciding between orange, black or silver.
May start pulling the engine tomorrow to send off for freshening.
We spent last week and got the new mechanical pump setup installed. We basically set the new Waterman pump where the Aeromotive 5.0 came off. This allowed us to be able to use all of the same plumbing.
This entire setup was extremely simple for install. I highly recommend contacting Bob Ette with AEICNC for any of the mechanical setups. We had everything installed and measured the length of the cable. That piece is a brute and pretty heavy duty. Also measured for the belt length (and delayed a week based on incorrect measurements the first time).
Finally opened the fuel shutoff valve, and primed the pump and had a fitting that was leaking. Replaced that with a new one. Went to start the car and the battery was low. Ended up being another hour delay to charge that. Finally got to turning it over and got it to fire off and was idling at 50psi consistently. It is really strange to not have the sound of an electric pump when turning the ignition on. Just silence.
One of the other things we noticed on some of the datalogs was the IAT's I was seeing. The turbo layout isn't the best based on the location of the radiator. The fresh air intakes to the turbos are getting the air from the radiator. We were brainstorming a couple of ideas to get the IAT's more reasonable. Relocating the radiator to the rear was one idea, another is laying the radiator down.
I never had cutout the two nose pieces on my Joe Van O hood. We started with that. We also build a shroud to direct air directly to the air filters. We took some thin aluminum and installed between the front bumper and the top of the radiator.
No idea if this will work or how much it will work, but seemed like the simplest thing right away. I know it won't do anything as well as moving the radiator but I really don't want to have to go through the fabrication of that. Not sure what color I will paint the aluminum. Deciding between orange, black or silver.
May start pulling the engine tomorrow to send off for freshening.
11-16-2019, 05:35 PM
#708
Went to the shop this afternoon and fired the car up to move some fuel. Shut it off and started tearing down for a winter freshen.
We made good progress today:
The engine would be out but we didn't have the lift at home. The motor mount bolts are out as well as the transmission bolts. It is ready to be out. Going to get it out on Monday and over to the Engine shop Tuesday. Have found a couple of minor things to fix and clean up, but nothing too bad. Oil looked really good. We will see what everything looks like inside after being tore down.
We made good progress today:
The engine would be out but we didn't have the lift at home. The motor mount bolts are out as well as the transmission bolts. It is ready to be out. Going to get it out on Monday and over to the Engine shop Tuesday. Have found a couple of minor things to fix and clean up, but nothing too bad. Oil looked really good. We will see what everything looks like inside after being tore down.
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stevieturbo (11-20-2019)
12-05-2019, 05:55 PM
#709
The engine was dropped off the next day at the engine shop but haven't heard anything from them. Sounds like they may get to look at it on Monday or Tuesday.
I didn't run across too much this Black Friday that caught my eye. I noticed a few things that interested me but ended up thinking I was going to save my money.
That is until I saw Davis Technologies was having a 15% off sale. I have wanted their Vehicle Position Sensor for a while now and decided the 15% off is probably going to be the best time to get one. I ordered the VPS and the Remote Display for it. Planning to mostly utilize the data for Safeties and primarily for wheelies.
I didn't run across too much this Black Friday that caught my eye. I noticed a few things that interested me but ended up thinking I was going to save my money.
That is until I saw Davis Technologies was having a 15% off sale. I have wanted their Vehicle Position Sensor for a while now and decided the 15% off is probably going to be the best time to get one. I ordered the VPS and the Remote Display for it. Planning to mostly utilize the data for Safeties and primarily for wheelies.
02-03-2020, 08:56 PM
#710
It has been quite a while since the last update. Well overdue. Things have really spiraled down a road I didn't want to see this winter. Haven't had much for motivation and the shitty news had me down a bit.
Had the engine tore down in early December where we found some surprises. Short story: it took out the thrust real good this time. There was a little on it the last time of refresh but this time was bad. The crankshaft was cracked and had some thinking to do. All of the other bearings looked great and no clear signs. Thought this was all under control, but going to pay more attention the next time.
I really wasn't sure what to do at this time. I didn't want to have another expensive winter upgrade, but......it was a little out of my hands at this point. I am going to have the crankshaft welded up, but I didn't think it would be a good idea to run it to the level I am planning to. Something not as extreme would probably be fine.
I kicked around some ideas on what to do. Ultimately, decided to change the bore and stroke. I will be moving from a 390ci to a 394ci. Sure another strange number. Everything was pretty much custom so we just threw something out there. I also found out the cylinder heads are 70cc instead of 64cc. I was planning on bumping the compression, but won't be as much as anticipated. Moving from 10.0 to 10.2.
I have a crankshaft from Winberg on order and should be going through balancing soon. I also had a new set of Diamond Pistons ordered. The new combo is a 4.09 bore x 3.75 stroke. The pistons just arrived and only received a quick snapshot from the engine shop.
I also ordered a Kostick carbon fiber wing for the rear. Have been thinking about these for a couple of years and decided to go through with it. The wing just arrived today and I had these photos sent to me. It is just laying on there to get an idea of how it will look. This actually has me slightly fired up and ready for Spring again and I haven't even seen it in person.
We are planning to install and machine a Torrington thrust bearing there as well this winter. That is another huge expense but figure it is a nice insurance policy for having that much money in the crankshaft. Will also be keeping a closer eye on it.
Hopefully will have some additional updates coming soon. Need to order a few last components, get some stuff wired up and hopefully get the engine back sooner than later.
Some crazy developments and hits to the pocket book over the last few months. But what can you do.....BUT TURN IT UP!
Had the engine tore down in early December where we found some surprises. Short story: it took out the thrust real good this time. There was a little on it the last time of refresh but this time was bad. The crankshaft was cracked and had some thinking to do. All of the other bearings looked great and no clear signs. Thought this was all under control, but going to pay more attention the next time.
I really wasn't sure what to do at this time. I didn't want to have another expensive winter upgrade, but......it was a little out of my hands at this point. I am going to have the crankshaft welded up, but I didn't think it would be a good idea to run it to the level I am planning to. Something not as extreme would probably be fine.
I kicked around some ideas on what to do. Ultimately, decided to change the bore and stroke. I will be moving from a 390ci to a 394ci. Sure another strange number. Everything was pretty much custom so we just threw something out there. I also found out the cylinder heads are 70cc instead of 64cc. I was planning on bumping the compression, but won't be as much as anticipated. Moving from 10.0 to 10.2.
I have a crankshaft from Winberg on order and should be going through balancing soon. I also had a new set of Diamond Pistons ordered. The new combo is a 4.09 bore x 3.75 stroke. The pistons just arrived and only received a quick snapshot from the engine shop.
I also ordered a Kostick carbon fiber wing for the rear. Have been thinking about these for a couple of years and decided to go through with it. The wing just arrived today and I had these photos sent to me. It is just laying on there to get an idea of how it will look. This actually has me slightly fired up and ready for Spring again and I haven't even seen it in person.
We are planning to install and machine a Torrington thrust bearing there as well this winter. That is another huge expense but figure it is a nice insurance policy for having that much money in the crankshaft. Will also be keeping a closer eye on it.
Hopefully will have some additional updates coming soon. Need to order a few last components, get some stuff wired up and hopefully get the engine back sooner than later.
Some crazy developments and hits to the pocket book over the last few months. But what can you do.....BUT TURN IT UP!
02-07-2020, 12:45 PM
#711
Sucks the thrust got wiped out. Are you running a pressure regulator on the trans ? I was advised to run a .125 converter charge restrictor, the regulator and the new dump valve set up Hughes came out with recently.
This was direct advice from Pete at Hughes. The dump alleviates pressure on the thrust while on the brake. It is a true dump internally, not just a solenoid plumbed into the cooler circuit that doesn’t really do anything.
This was direct advice from Pete at Hughes. The dump alleviates pressure on the thrust while on the brake. It is a true dump internally, not just a solenoid plumbed into the cooler circuit that doesn’t really do anything.
02-07-2020, 12:59 PM
#712
TECH Junkie
I'd ask the same question on the thrust issue being caused by the trans.
@Only ERO's I'm across the state from ya in Sioux City, IA.
Shoot me a pm and I can help ya out with a dump valve setup, or a pressure control setup for the converter charge oil.
@Only ERO's I'm across the state from ya in Sioux City, IA.
Shoot me a pm and I can help ya out with a dump valve setup, or a pressure control setup for the converter charge oil.
02-07-2020, 04:02 PM
#713
I'd ask the same question on the thrust issue being caused by the trans.
@Only ERO's I'm across the state from ya in Sioux City, IA.
Shoot me a pm and I can help ya out with a dump valve setup, or a pressure control setup for the converter charge oil.
@Only ERO's I'm across the state from ya in Sioux City, IA.
Shoot me a pm and I can help ya out with a dump valve setup, or a pressure control setup for the converter charge oil.
02-28-2020, 09:28 PM
#714
Sucks the thrust got wiped out. Are you running a pressure regulator on the trans ? I was advised to run a .125 converter charge restrictor, the regulator and the new dump valve set up Hughes came out with recently.
This was direct advice from Pete at Hughes. The dump alleviates pressure on the thrust while on the brake. It is a true dump internally, not just a solenoid plumbed into the cooler circuit that doesn’t really do anything.
This was direct advice from Pete at Hughes. The dump alleviates pressure on the thrust while on the brake. It is a true dump internally, not just a solenoid plumbed into the cooler circuit that doesn’t really do anything.
I'd ask the same question on the thrust issue being caused by the trans.
@Only ERO's I'm across the state from ya in Sioux City, IA.
Shoot me a pm and I can help ya out with a dump valve setup, or a pressure control setup for the converter charge oil.
@Only ERO's I'm across the state from ya in Sioux City, IA.
Shoot me a pm and I can help ya out with a dump valve setup, or a pressure control setup for the converter charge oil.
Received a couple of texts from the engine shop. They got a package from Winberg Crankshafts today.
Also got the machining of my block done for the Torrington bearing.
The guy putting the engine together is out most of the next two weeks. There is a slight chance it might be done the 2nd week of March but most likely the week after that. We will get it home and start putting it back in and buttoning everything up.
I also took the hatch to my auto body guy. Going to get all of the voids filled in from the removal of the factory spoiler.
03-13-2020, 11:42 PM
#715
Happy Friday the 13th!! I received the call today that the engine was done. Ran over there right after work and hauled it back to the shop!
I officially have Spring fever. Should be starting to put things back together soon! Can't wait to fire this back up!
I officially have Spring fever. Should be starting to put things back together soon! Can't wait to fire this back up!
03-17-2020, 09:27 AM
#716
Got over to the shop on Sunday and spent some time putting things back together.
Basically got the engine set back in and bolted back together.
Driver's manifold tapped for a backpressure sensor
Hot side, turbos and exhaust installed
Valley cover, intake, fuel rails, injectors, coils, etc all installed
Front accessories all installed
Made it back over to the shop on Monday night. Started working on all of the smaller stuff.
Put the cold side on.
Installed the engine diaper and the turbo drains and feed/return to the oil filter
Installed the catch can
Filled full of oil
Finished reconnecting the steam ports
Installed coolant hoses
Connected Steam hoses
It is pretty close to getting ready to fire up. I have to change the wiring for going from a 24x to 58x reluctor wheel.
Going to crank the engine to build some oil pressure. Then connect the fuel pump cable. Update the tune in the ECU and hope she fires. Hoping either Wednesday or Thursday.
Basically got the engine set back in and bolted back together.
Driver's manifold tapped for a backpressure sensor
Hot side, turbos and exhaust installed
Valley cover, intake, fuel rails, injectors, coils, etc all installed
Front accessories all installed
Made it back over to the shop on Monday night. Started working on all of the smaller stuff.
Put the cold side on.
Installed the engine diaper and the turbo drains and feed/return to the oil filter
Installed the catch can
Filled full of oil
Finished reconnecting the steam ports
Installed coolant hoses
Connected Steam hoses
It is pretty close to getting ready to fire up. I have to change the wiring for going from a 24x to 58x reluctor wheel.
Going to crank the engine to build some oil pressure. Then connect the fuel pump cable. Update the tune in the ECU and hope she fires. Hoping either Wednesday or Thursday.
03-20-2020, 11:15 PM
#717
Had a minor setback after filling with oil. One of the bungs on my oil pan for a turbo drain was leaking. Spent some time on Friday night and got the tap and die set out and recut the grooves. It seems to be quite fine now. From there, we spent some time and mounted some sensors. I had bought some remote blocks from Motion Raceworks last year and never installed them. Mounted the MAP sensor, both Left and Right back pressure sensors, coolant pressure sensor and oil pressure sensor. I need one more mount for the Pre intercooler pressure and dome pressure. No pics at this time.
I decided to take Thursday night off and then was back over there tonight. Pulled the dash and changed the wiring for the crank and cam sensors. Went from a 24x reluctor to a 58x this year and also the 4x cam instead of the 1x. I had never changed the voltage for the cam sensor in the past. Moved the 12V voltage wire for the crank and cam sensors from the J1B connector and tied it in with the 5V reference wire on the J1A connector.
Had removed the plugs and disconnected the coils / injectors. Turned the car over for a bit and built oil pressure. Reinstalled everything for the engine and then primed the fuel pump with a drill. Installed the fuel cable and was ready for the first start. It took a little bit to build fuel pressure but she popped right off and we were in business. That is always a huge relief!!
Let it idle for a bit to put some heat in the engine and called it a night. Planning to be back out there this weekend to look more things over and continue with some of the wiring.
I decided to take Thursday night off and then was back over there tonight. Pulled the dash and changed the wiring for the crank and cam sensors. Went from a 24x reluctor to a 58x this year and also the 4x cam instead of the 1x. I had never changed the voltage for the cam sensor in the past. Moved the 12V voltage wire for the crank and cam sensors from the J1B connector and tied it in with the 5V reference wire on the J1A connector.
Had removed the plugs and disconnected the coils / injectors. Turned the car over for a bit and built oil pressure. Reinstalled everything for the engine and then primed the fuel pump with a drill. Installed the fuel cable and was ready for the first start. It took a little bit to build fuel pressure but she popped right off and we were in business. That is always a huge relief!!
Let it idle for a bit to put some heat in the engine and called it a night. Planning to be back out there this weekend to look more things over and continue with some of the wiring.
04-05-2020, 07:11 PM
#718
I have just been fiddling with things here and there over the last couple of weeks. Took the car for a couple of quick drives and for the most part, the engine feels fine.
I had been noticing some sensor issues with different transducers and some other inputs when I went through a prestart checklist. Went through much of the wiring and revisited a bunch of different items troubleshooting but never could find anything that stood out. I pulled the Dominator and went over to a buddy's shop. We installed my Dominator on another car and I loaded my tune and same issue. I also loaded the tune from a different laptop to rule that out. We swapped the ECU's back to the original Dominator that was in the car, and sent my tune and all of the sensor data was normal. I was on the phone with Holley tech a couple of times and sent of the ECU for bench testing. I have a feeling I will get negative news. Everything worked perfectly when I put the car away for winter. Was in a controlled environment the entire time and nothing really done to the car aside from removing and then reinstalling the engine. FRUSTRATING.
Aside from that mess, I have installed and cleaned up some of the mounting for the pressure transducers. I had ordered Motion Raceworks bulkheads but had not used them. Wanted to get everything lined up and in a simple orientation for checking / disconnecting sensors.
I still have one more remote block I need to get.
We also finally installed my flex fuel sensor to have an input for Ethanol Content. I had bought a Powerhouse Racing high flow dual passage flex fuel adapter around Thanksgiving time and never took the time to install. I had the flex fuel sensor for a couple of years and never installed.
I forgot to take a photo of this installed but attached a photo from their site. We also got the Davis Technologies VPS mounted and wired. I haven't connected the remote display to this yet and will also have to get photos of it installed.
Last weekend I was a little bored and decided to enter a waffle on Facebook. I really wanted an M&M shifter and thought I would take the risk and try to win won.
There were a few issues and the actual drawing wasn't able to be life. The video of the drawing was emailed. There were two files for the video and I opened the second part first and saw my number was up. Instant excitement. Ended up watching both videos and sure enough, I was chosen.
I have a 2-speed, all black M&M shifter coming my way. I ordered a Mac valve to be able to run my onboard air for air shifting.
Today, we pulled the transmission pan and valve body and put a fitting in to restrict the flow for the converter charge. Appreciate the info and instructions from MaroonMonsterLS1. Very helpful and provided me with the info needed before jumping into it.
While I was at the shop testing my Dominator, I also looked at my hatch. The body guy was saying there was a swirl where some of the fill was needed from the holes. I could hardly tell and you had to have the perfect angle to see it. He was going to revisit and then potentially buff the hatch after that. Once we get the hatch back, we will start tackling the mounting of the wing.
Besides that, I am just waiting to hear on the Dominator.
Hope everybody is doing alright battling the COVID stuff.
I had been noticing some sensor issues with different transducers and some other inputs when I went through a prestart checklist. Went through much of the wiring and revisited a bunch of different items troubleshooting but never could find anything that stood out. I pulled the Dominator and went over to a buddy's shop. We installed my Dominator on another car and I loaded my tune and same issue. I also loaded the tune from a different laptop to rule that out. We swapped the ECU's back to the original Dominator that was in the car, and sent my tune and all of the sensor data was normal. I was on the phone with Holley tech a couple of times and sent of the ECU for bench testing. I have a feeling I will get negative news. Everything worked perfectly when I put the car away for winter. Was in a controlled environment the entire time and nothing really done to the car aside from removing and then reinstalling the engine. FRUSTRATING.
Aside from that mess, I have installed and cleaned up some of the mounting for the pressure transducers. I had ordered Motion Raceworks bulkheads but had not used them. Wanted to get everything lined up and in a simple orientation for checking / disconnecting sensors.
I still have one more remote block I need to get.
We also finally installed my flex fuel sensor to have an input for Ethanol Content. I had bought a Powerhouse Racing high flow dual passage flex fuel adapter around Thanksgiving time and never took the time to install. I had the flex fuel sensor for a couple of years and never installed.
I forgot to take a photo of this installed but attached a photo from their site. We also got the Davis Technologies VPS mounted and wired. I haven't connected the remote display to this yet and will also have to get photos of it installed.
Last weekend I was a little bored and decided to enter a waffle on Facebook. I really wanted an M&M shifter and thought I would take the risk and try to win won.
There were a few issues and the actual drawing wasn't able to be life. The video of the drawing was emailed. There were two files for the video and I opened the second part first and saw my number was up. Instant excitement. Ended up watching both videos and sure enough, I was chosen.
I have a 2-speed, all black M&M shifter coming my way. I ordered a Mac valve to be able to run my onboard air for air shifting.
Today, we pulled the transmission pan and valve body and put a fitting in to restrict the flow for the converter charge. Appreciate the info and instructions from MaroonMonsterLS1. Very helpful and provided me with the info needed before jumping into it.
While I was at the shop testing my Dominator, I also looked at my hatch. The body guy was saying there was a swirl where some of the fill was needed from the holes. I could hardly tell and you had to have the perfect angle to see it. He was going to revisit and then potentially buff the hatch after that. Once we get the hatch back, we will start tackling the mounting of the wing.
Besides that, I am just waiting to hear on the Dominator.
Hope everybody is doing alright battling the COVID stuff.
04-10-2020, 11:21 AM
#719
I ended up receiving information back from Holley on my ECU. The info I receive straight from Holley: "Found your culprit. Your J1B pin 10 pin is broken off in the connector. There’s not a way for us to repair that as it’s all potted and sealed in. Looks like there was something bad that happened inside that connector seal as well, corrosion and burnt smell. I’m going to go ahead and get this unit sent on back to you."
I know the history with Holley based on reading all about the broken USB connectors and them not being able to fix anything. This was my first time dealing with this first hand. Let me tell you, IT IS FRUSTRATING.
I asked them if there is anything they can do on a new one. More or less asking, can you cut me a deal because this product you sell is not repairable by the same company that supposedly manufactures it. Pretty far fetched and shitty from a company if you ask me. The response I get is: "Well, on an ECU this far from warranty there’s not much I can do. If you needed to replace it and put together an order with any additional items I can offer you free shipping and a tee shirt, possibly do better on price on a multi-item order with a few large items or a 10% discount with military service."
Holy ****. What a kick in the nuts. Not only are you not willing to do a damn thing about it, but you want to give me a free T-shirt which in turn is free advertising for you. Get the **** outta here. I wouldn't use that damn thing as a shop rag.
I am not sure where or what is potentially causing the corrosion in there. The connectors have always been installed and the ECU has always been in the car in a controlled environment. A pin in the middle of the connector breaks, and it screws the entire ECU. I am pretty sure I am going to tear into the ECU when I get back to see the fancy insides and circuit boards these guys can't fix. The thing I still don't understand: the connector that is causing my ECU troubles is J1B-10, which is an output that I am not even using. Yet the car runs fine and all of the data on the J1A and J1B connectors appears fine. It is just the Inputs I have on the J2A and J4 connectors that are having issues. I don't trust this enough to run on my engine that I have a ton of money stuck into.
Moral of the story: Holley, you sell (I can't even say you manufacture because I don't know if that is true or if it is a different company subcontracted by you to build them) a great product with the Holley EFI ECU's. But it is a horseshit design from whoever came up with the idea that they cannot be opened and repaired. Needless to say, it is quite the kick in the nuts to the consumer.
I really don't feel like redoing everything as much as I wouldn't mind making the change to probably a Fueltech. So I broke down and ordered a new Dominator. **** you Holley and you sure as hell better come out with some worthwhile updates.
Rant over.
Now for the good stuff. I received a little package from M&M Transmissions yesterday. I have wanted one of these shifters since the day they were released. I was never able to quite justify the cost of one. A buddy of mine worked on a car with one and said how nice they are. I still thought, yeah whatever. It is difficult to put it in words but they are silky smooth. Everything is nice about the shifter (as it should be for the cost). I can't explain how nice, or simple, or how smooth the shifting action is. M&M, you have come up with quite the product. Proud to be an owner of one! Can't wait to get this thing installed and used.
I know the history with Holley based on reading all about the broken USB connectors and them not being able to fix anything. This was my first time dealing with this first hand. Let me tell you, IT IS FRUSTRATING.
I asked them if there is anything they can do on a new one. More or less asking, can you cut me a deal because this product you sell is not repairable by the same company that supposedly manufactures it. Pretty far fetched and shitty from a company if you ask me. The response I get is: "Well, on an ECU this far from warranty there’s not much I can do. If you needed to replace it and put together an order with any additional items I can offer you free shipping and a tee shirt, possibly do better on price on a multi-item order with a few large items or a 10% discount with military service."
Holy ****. What a kick in the nuts. Not only are you not willing to do a damn thing about it, but you want to give me a free T-shirt which in turn is free advertising for you. Get the **** outta here. I wouldn't use that damn thing as a shop rag.
I am not sure where or what is potentially causing the corrosion in there. The connectors have always been installed and the ECU has always been in the car in a controlled environment. A pin in the middle of the connector breaks, and it screws the entire ECU. I am pretty sure I am going to tear into the ECU when I get back to see the fancy insides and circuit boards these guys can't fix. The thing I still don't understand: the connector that is causing my ECU troubles is J1B-10, which is an output that I am not even using. Yet the car runs fine and all of the data on the J1A and J1B connectors appears fine. It is just the Inputs I have on the J2A and J4 connectors that are having issues. I don't trust this enough to run on my engine that I have a ton of money stuck into.
Moral of the story: Holley, you sell (I can't even say you manufacture because I don't know if that is true or if it is a different company subcontracted by you to build them) a great product with the Holley EFI ECU's. But it is a horseshit design from whoever came up with the idea that they cannot be opened and repaired. Needless to say, it is quite the kick in the nuts to the consumer.
I really don't feel like redoing everything as much as I wouldn't mind making the change to probably a Fueltech. So I broke down and ordered a new Dominator. **** you Holley and you sure as hell better come out with some worthwhile updates.
Rant over.
Now for the good stuff. I received a little package from M&M Transmissions yesterday. I have wanted one of these shifters since the day they were released. I was never able to quite justify the cost of one. A buddy of mine worked on a car with one and said how nice they are. I still thought, yeah whatever. It is difficult to put it in words but they are silky smooth. Everything is nice about the shifter (as it should be for the cost). I can't explain how nice, or simple, or how smooth the shifting action is. M&M, you have come up with quite the product. Proud to be an owner of one! Can't wait to get this thing installed and used.
04-10-2020, 01:28 PM
#720
Pretty crazy considering its in the middle of the plug and they all get plugged in together. Inside the car is probably the safest places for the ecu. I have seriously been considering a terminator x kit but after seeing this and other multiple issues I'm not so sure !