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SOM LAG Project: 394ci, 25.3, Twin PT7675 Gen 2's, PG, E85, 7-second Street Car

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Old 04-10-2020, 03:56 PM
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Damn man. Bummer on the dominator. Unfortunately, unless you have a lot of time and knowledge of the circuit board there’s no fixing it. I fix the usb connector by milling down to the mother board and soldering on a pigtail. I’m able to do this because I know exactly where it is from depotting a dead dominator. I couldn’t imagine trying to replace that connector.

Good luck man!
Old 04-10-2020, 06:16 PM
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With V5 software there is no longer a need to fix a broken USB. Version 5 has the ability to do USB over CAN, so all you need is the USB to CAN cable that is used by guys running the Sniper and the Terminator X systems.

Andrew
Old 04-10-2020, 06:46 PM
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I'm just switching to Holley dominator from the factory computer. Its sort of intimidating for a dummy like me. Definitely not liking how Holley **** on its customer. Watched this build for a long time. It helped me decide to make the switch. Mounted mine in the car also. Sucks to spend money twice on the same thing. Probably built in China like everything else. Hopefully this situation we are in will wake people up to buy American! Just my 2 cents
Old 04-10-2020, 06:51 PM
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The Dominator is made in Canada.

Andrew
Old 04-10-2020, 07:48 PM
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Want proof
Old 04-10-2020, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Only ERO's

Moral of the story: Holley, you sell (I can't even say you manufacture because I don't know if that is true or if it is a different company subcontracted by you to build them) a great product with the Holley EFI ECU's. But it is a horseshit design from whoever came up with the idea that they cannot be opened and repaired. Needless to say, it is quite the kick in the nuts to the consumer.
Fahck. I think that solidifies my decision to go Haltech for my Buick this year. Screw those guys.
Old 04-10-2020, 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by badass68
Damn man. Bummer on the dominator. Unfortunately, unless you have a lot of time and knowledge of the circuit board there’s no fixing it. I fix the usb connector by milling down to the mother board and soldering on a pigtail. I’m able to do this because I know exactly where it is from depotting a dead dominator. I couldn’t imagine trying to replace that connector.

Good luck man!
The smart thing for me wouild be to keep it and use it for troubleshooting when the time comes up.

But part of me wants to put together a video for Youtube of what happened and Holley's response. Basically saying it is junk and smash it with a sledgehammer. Just to see if it can somewhat go viral on the car scene.


I stopped by and picked up the hatch. It looks awesome! Bolted it back on tonight and then started looking at how to mount the wing. May start that this weekend.

Old 04-11-2020, 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Chad99
Want proof
I've been a member of this forum for over fifteen years. I don't post **** talking out my ***. If you don't believe me, then that's your problem.

Andrew
Old 04-11-2020, 10:13 AM
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I wonder if a place that rebuilds PCM's could repair it? I had a F250 PCM rebuilt here in DFW for $100 and they replaced the pin pack that was broken in a similar fashion.
Old 04-11-2020, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by AnnivSS
I wonder if a place that rebuilds PCM's could repair it? I had a F250 PCM rebuilt here in DFW for $100 and they replaced the pin pack that was broken in a similar fashion.
Very interesting!
Old 04-11-2020, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Only ERO's
Very interesting!

This is the place I used.

https://www.ecmfram.com/contact
Old 04-11-2020, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Project GatTagO
With V5 software there is no longer a need to fix a broken USB. Version 5 has the ability to do USB over CAN, so all you need is the USB to CAN cable that is used by guys running the Sniper and the Terminator X systems.

Andrew
Unfortunately, that only works if you have the can turned on before it’s broke. Also the can is wayyyy slower.
Old 04-11-2020, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Only ERO's
The smart thing for me wouild be to keep it and use it for troubleshooting when the time comes up.

But part of me wants to put together a video for Youtube of what happened and Holley's response. Basically saying it is junk and smash it with a sledgehammer. Just to see if it can somewhat go viral on the car scene.


I stopped by and picked up the hatch. It looks awesome! Bolted it back on tonight and then started looking at how to mount the wing. May start that this weekend.

Agreed, save it for a back up.

The broke pin has nothing to do with your issues.

Hatch looks awesome. 👍🏻
Old 04-11-2020, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by badass68
Unfortunately, that only works if you have the can turned on before it’s broke. Also the can is wayyyy slower.
Makes sense about the CAN, but I have tuned several Terminator X and Sniper systems with the USB to CAN cable and I found it to be just as fast or faster then the USB. I have not tried the CAN method on my Dominator.

Andrew
Old 04-11-2020, 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Chad99
Want proof

Old 04-14-2020, 09:12 AM
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Ran over to the shop last night after work and spent some time mounting the Kostick drag wing. We aren't very artistic when it comes to fabrication, but we end up making things work. This was really the first time I have seen the wing butted up to the car in person. It is ridiculous; it fits like a glove. I can't say enough how great the composites that come out of Mike Kostick's shop are. His roof that I got fit perfectly and now the wing does as well.

We got the Dzus plates mounted and all of the Dzus riveted into place. Took some adjusting here and there but overall was very minor. Still can't believe how well this fits.












We were able to get the side still plate mounts on and a couple of the strut mounts drilled before the end of the night. More to come.




I am very happy with how it has turned out thus far.
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Old 04-16-2020, 08:00 PM
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Been running through the last few items on my list as hopefully this late-season snow finally melts. I received the new Dominator unit yesterday and got that hooked up. Went back through and verified all my inputs again. Found a couple that had some loose connections and got those straightened. Fired the car tonight and everything looked good on the logs and sounded good.

Finished all of struts for the wing and have it all mounted. I will have to adjust the parachute mount to clear but otherwise everything should be complete with the wing.



I finally plugged in the remote display for the Davis VPS and programmed the inputs in the unit. Also snapped a couple photos of it mounted seeing that I kept forgetting that. I need to go through and get some wheelie data to set up my timing retards for my wheels up moments.







I am down to just minor items on my checklist. Would like to drive it around a bit but would like to see another nice rainfall after this latest snow we got. The forecast is looking nice. Back into the 50-60's starting Saturday.
Old 04-17-2020, 11:13 AM
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Damn, almost 70,000mph in the 1/4 thats moving. Lol.
Old 04-17-2020, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Only ERO's
I ended up receiving information back from Holley on my ECU. The info I receive straight from Holley: "Found your culprit. Your J1B pin 10 pin is broken off in the connector. There’s not a way for us to repair that as it’s all potted and sealed in. Looks like there was something bad that happened inside that connector seal as well, corrosion and burnt smell. I’m going to go ahead and get this unit sent on back to you."
For anyone saying to just fix it or open it up and look at it. It is potted. There is nothing to see and nothing that can be fixed. Holley didn't do that by accident. It is to protect their product from being knocked off.
Old 04-17-2020, 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by wretched73
For anyone saying to just fix it or open it up and look at it. It is potted. There is nothing to see and nothing that can be fixed. Holley didn't do that by accident. It is to protect their product from being knocked off.

If it can be manufactured, it can be fixed. Albeit it may be much more difficult but someone has the correct tools and such to either repair the assembly or replace it. Whether its financially reasonable to put in the effort vs buying a new one is a totally different conversation.


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