chevyrules85

iTrader: (3)

need some help tuning a friends car. its in a 95 Camaro, with a t56. engine is a 03 5.3 ls6 cam springs, edelbrock vic jr intake elbow and truck TB. 60lb seimens injectors. ms1 and 6010 box running the car. I downloaded denmahs base tune and 6010 spark file to get the car running and driving.
questions are

1. fuel pressure, we set at 40 psi. his aeromotive regulator is referenced to the intake manifold, so its seeing vacuum and boost, is that bad? does it need to be referenced to the charge pipe so it only sees boost, will the vacuum pull the pressure down?

2. cant get the car to idle below 1100-1150 no matter what we do, throttle stop is set to almost closed. tried pulling fuel out of the table, and I can get it down to 850, but it stumbles badly when trying to rev up, if I add that fuel back in, it revs cleanly. but no matter what I do, the afr really doesn't change. and its pretty rich

3. the arf gauge in the car and afr on megasquirt don't match at all. car says its idling at about 13.5, and in megasquirt it says im 15-16, what would cause such a difference?

4. do I need less timing? ive read that some guys have had had to pull timing to get the idle to be tuneable.

5. wideband 02 placement. he put the sensor about 8 inches after the turbo, I know that's not good, its supposed to be like 18 inches away at least right? could this be causing some problems?

6. if I leave the iat unplugged it runs decent at the 1100 rpm idle, and drives decent. plug in the iat, reads 80 degree temps, and car runs like ****. hardly idles, and almost wont rev up at all? its 80 degrees outside today, don't understand why it runs like that with it connected?

im new to tuning but trying to help him the best I can. car is running and driving, just need to iron some of these things out so we car actually start tuning, and help is MUCH appreciated, thanks guys!

Cyrperformance

iTrader: (1)

15-16 is lean, could have a vacuum leak causing high idle and lean condition. Start simple checking hoses and such. As for timing I started around ten degrees and tuned the MAF and VE tables then slowly added it back, I think i am around 16 degrees at idle. I set my sensor about 20 inches away from turbo and at about a ten o'clock or two o'clock (depending on which way you look at it). Don't know Megasquirt but good luck and hope this helps some.

chevyrules85

iTrader: (3)

thanks for the imput! no vacuum leaks, already checked that. I know 15-16 is lean, but when the megasquirt gauge says 15-16, my aem gauge says 13.5, so why such a difference? and I feel like I have to much timing at idle, its floating around 25* at idle. im going to try 15-17 at idle. really hoping to hear from some others running ms1/msd. I know their out there!

Cyrperformance

iTrader: (1)

25* is way to much from my experience, definitely turn that back. Not sure why the AFR is so different, Is the wideband O2 calibrated? Maybe a stupid question just throwing it out there.

chevyrules85

iTrader: (3)

nah not stupid, the lc1's I know you have to calibrate, but the aem hes running calibrates itself. I had one for years on my 2011 evo and never touched it, it never missed a beat

Smallblockguy

Your IAC port may have a gap, or your throttle body gasket may be upside down, sounds like a vacuum leak.

chevyrules85

iTrader: (3)

already checked both of those, neither have a leak, but thanks for the imput!

tonypaul

iTrader: (2)

You check your IAC to see if its closed/sealed all the way?

chevyrules85

iTrader: (3)

made some progress today. pulled timing out at idle, cars much more responsive, idle came down some, still at 1000.

cured some issues so I removed them from the list. still wondering about the issues on the list.

pulled the iac motor out, and the plunger is all the way out so it is sealed off correct? other than the iac question, I have no vacuum leaks

really wondering why the megasquirt afr gauge and the aem afr gauge are so far different. im not sure which one to trust, then all the sudden they'll be exactly the same. that ones really got me puzzled.

thanks for the help so far guys!

chevyrules85

iTrader: (3)

also does anyone know whats up with the iat sensor? its reading about 80 degree intake air temps which should be normal, but if I plug it in, it runs like total ****, is there something I need to adjust in the tune? ive just been leaving it unplugged. the sensor is from a cyclone, because he wanted one that would screw in, could it be the wrong sensor?

Cyrperformance

iTrader: (1)

Did you set the new injectors in mega squirt, lbs etc? I had one car that they changed injectors and were not setup in tune but acted a little different from your situation.

chevyrules85

iTrader: (3)

yup, that was the first thing I did, set it up for 60lb injectors

redss82

batch fire cars like to idle around 13.5 afr usually about 900 to 1000 rpm. Do you have the idle air valve rtv'ed or epoxied shut? Aem set as your wide band in turner studio? You can also block the hole in the throttle blade to help out a little. Also why so low on the fp is it at 40 psi with the car running with vacuum or with it shut of just the pump running? Might like a little more base pressure if not. My car running a mircosquirt 50psi base pressure about 40 at idle while in vacuum runs like a top but the man the myth the Denmah tuned it haha good luck hopefully it works out for you

chevyrules85

iTrader: (3)

I didn't know you had to rtv or epoxy it shut? ill check into that. where is the wideband setting in tuner studio? I tried to find it, didn't see anything for settings of it. 40 is just where we started, but the car seems pretty rich everywhere, but we have only made about 5lbs of boost so far, so it could lean out some. does the vacuum pull the fuel regulator down? u said u had 50 psi base and 40 at idle? thanks a lot for the help man!

turbo6man

iTrader: (5)

Hi guys just some FYI stuff. The innovate LC1 has two wires that can be connected to external stuff. They are yellow and brown and called analog out 1 and 2. You have one of those two wires connected to the megasquirt. Those two wires come factory calibrated inside the LC1 one is a narrow band 02 output curve and one is a wideband output curve. They come factory defaulted like that but you can log into the LC1 and view/change them if you want. I am not suggesting you change them I am suggesting you verify which output wire you used(should be the wideband output) then log into the lc1 and write down what the factory output wideband curve is. Then go into the megasqurt software and make sure it is set up with the same curve. I believe you will have hooked up to output two which is the brown wire because it is factory set up for wideband output. If you log into output two on the lc1 with a laptop it should be=0volts is 7.35 AFR and 5volts is 22.39 AFR. all this info is provided in the LC1 manual here: http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/s...C-1_Manual.pdf Not saying that is what it is but I am saying you should always verify they match

Also for megasquirt stuff I have found this to be a very useful forum for help: http://www.msextra.com/forums/
Best of luck

turbo6man

iTrader: (5)

This is an addition to the last post: To make sure in tunerstudios you have the correct wideband curve, open your project then select Tools/calibrate afr table. You should be able to select LC1 from the choices and that will calibrate it to the wideband curve in the LC1.

chevyrules85

iTrader: (3)

sorry for any confusion, I do not have the lc1. I am using the aem uego. but in tunerstudio, under tools, the only thing I have is tps calibration. wonder why that is?

redss82

The afr wide band settings are under communication or tools top left hand side of the screen. And if the idle air valve is open a little or dirty it might not seal I just used 2 part epoxy to fill mine.

redss82

And the regulator will get pulled down by vacuum you need to set it with the car off no vac line hooked to it. My car reads 50 psi with out the car running dips in the 40s while I ding and vacuum hooked up

turbo6man

iTrader: (5)

Thats OK. I went back into tunerstudio/calibrate afr table and they have a few options there for AEM.
Sooo when you just open tuner studio it will only have the calibrate tps option. you can do one of two things, one=You need to open the most current file(project) of your tune on your laptop make sure it is the same as the last time you made changes to the file currently in ecu.Now calibrate options should be there. This way is for when you are not communicating on line in real time with the ecm. People like this because they can make changes lets say in there house at their leisure, then the next time you go live with the car you burn the changes when you connect to the ECU. Or two= open tunerstudios and connect to the ecm in real time and they should be there. Then if you go to tools it should have calibrate afr table as well as alot more options. Also if the option for calibrate afr table is now there but you cannot push it because it is un highlighted you need to do this= tools/unlock calibrations/a window will open select unlocked then push the burn button. You can then close that window and go back to tools and the calibrate afr table should be highlighted. This is to prevent those settings from accidentally being changed. After you do all that and then for option one= take your computer and hook it to the car you will see the changes you made and tell it to send the new changes to the ECU. Or for option two you are already connected burn changes to ecu and save new file.

AHHHHH so if you only saw calibrate tps one of the other options that shows up is calibrate thermister tables. you will go in there and select air temp sensor/then under common sensor values select "GM" and it will put in the correct values when you burn it to the ECM. This should make your air temp sensor work

After that is done, your gonna see there is some other things under tools calibrate you should check as well