1000 to 1200 hp stock bottom end
06-16-2014, 06:52 PM
#41
Not to nitpick, but I'd like to add a little adjustment to some of those prices if you don't mind 
1200hp capable and reliable 4L80E with true peace of mind won't quite cost 5k, depending on who you buy it from.
For example, a 4L80E built by us is $4,100 including the core. This is with a billet input shaft, billet rollerized forward hub, a billet main shaft and an aluminum 36 element Pro Mod drum. Normally the cast iron 36 element Super Drum would be the standard feature and the aluminum a $400 upgrade (like most shops) but for right now we snagged a SWEET deal on some aluminum drums and have made them a standard feature of the builds right now (it's a drum usually used in Pro Mod level racing, hence the name).
Plus a shifter ($280) and cross member... you're creeping up on my outrageous price.
This is a VERY strong setup at a reasonable price for what you're getting, in my opinion.
Converter won't necessarily cost that much either, again, just depends on where you buy from.
A billet 258mm triple disc 4L80E converter from us would be $1,000 flat + shipping and has been more than proven for 1,200hp, although certain combinations would benefit from a mechanical diode upgrade at 1,000+ and that would be a $1,300 converter (the extra amount is almost entirely the cost of the diode itself)
You are actually, nit picking. You're the new kid on the LS1Tech block and coming with some lower prices, I can respect that as a business owner myself. Hit the ground hard kinda thing, I get it. It's a 200 dollar difference, and in racing... that's a days fuel and tech in with a burger.
Fuel system seems a tad high as well, but there are so many variables that come into play it can make your head spin.
I'm building a street car, so my numbers are different. I like nice things, and I have them. My fuel pump won't be halting conversations. I built this fuel system to be my last, I refuse to be one of the guys who ends up trying to sell his system and upgrade. Pay once, cry once.
As for tuning, paying a tuner is definitely a much cheaper and a better value for the price and a lot less hassle IMO
I'm done with tuners. Everyone can feel free to shell out XXX every time they need a tune. I bought once, and cried once.
Thing with TH400s is a lot of them are advertised to hold that power, but are definitely not equipped to truly handle it long term.
I have seen a couple of TH400s hold over 1,000 to the wheels on stock hard parts for a surprising amount of time, but I've seen many many more not so fortunate. At the very least, I prefer to see any TH400 or 4L80E making any real power to have a billet input and forward hub, although there are some setups that genuinely don't need it. Nitrous guys however, always need it.
1200hp capable and reliable 4L80E with true peace of mind won't quite cost 5k, depending on who you buy it from.
For example, a 4L80E built by us is $4,100 including the core. This is with a billet input shaft, billet rollerized forward hub, a billet main shaft and an aluminum 36 element Pro Mod drum. Normally the cast iron 36 element Super Drum would be the standard feature and the aluminum a $400 upgrade (like most shops) but for right now we snagged a SWEET deal on some aluminum drums and have made them a standard feature of the builds right now (it's a drum usually used in Pro Mod level racing, hence the name).
Plus a shifter ($280) and cross member... you're creeping up on my outrageous price.
This is a VERY strong setup at a reasonable price for what you're getting, in my opinion.
Converter won't necessarily cost that much either, again, just depends on where you buy from.
A billet 258mm triple disc 4L80E converter from us would be $1,000 flat + shipping and has been more than proven for 1,200hp, although certain combinations would benefit from a mechanical diode upgrade at 1,000+ and that would be a $1,300 converter (the extra amount is almost entirely the cost of the diode itself)
You are actually, nit picking. You're the new kid on the LS1Tech block and coming with some lower prices, I can respect that as a business owner myself. Hit the ground hard kinda thing, I get it. It's a 200 dollar difference, and in racing... that's a days fuel and tech in with a burger.
Fuel system seems a tad high as well, but there are so many variables that come into play it can make your head spin.
I'm building a street car, so my numbers are different. I like nice things, and I have them. My fuel pump won't be halting conversations. I built this fuel system to be my last, I refuse to be one of the guys who ends up trying to sell his system and upgrade. Pay once, cry once.
As for tuning, paying a tuner is definitely a much cheaper and a better value for the price and a lot less hassle IMO
I'm done with tuners. Everyone can feel free to shell out XXX every time they need a tune. I bought once, and cried once.
Thing with TH400s is a lot of them are advertised to hold that power, but are definitely not equipped to truly handle it long term.
I have seen a couple of TH400s hold over 1,000 to the wheels on stock hard parts for a surprising amount of time, but I've seen many many more not so fortunate. At the very least, I prefer to see any TH400 or 4L80E making any real power to have a billet input and forward hub, although there are some setups that genuinely don't need it. Nitrous guys however, always need it.
1200HP and stock engine. I hope you have a diaper. Has it been done? Sure. Is it the normal thing? Not for extended periods of time.
I love seeing the budget builds, the fact that I'm not doing one is no big deal. My prices may be high, but I always try to be on the high side of things. This is, after all, forced induction.
Carry on with your thread.
06-16-2014, 08:06 PM
#42
FormerVendor
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Justin, TX
Posts: 263
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm sorry I'm not broke. 20,000 dollars is not my life savings. It's just money, I'll make more of it. I work hard, play hard. This is racing, I'm not trying to break something every time I go out.
1200HP and stock engine. I hope you have a diaper. Has it been done? Sure. Is it the normal thing? Not for extended periods of time.
I love seeing the budget builds, the fact that I'm not doing one is no big deal. My prices may be high, but I always try to be on the high side of things. This is, after all, forced induction.
Carry on with your thread.
1200HP and stock engine. I hope you have a diaper. Has it been done? Sure. Is it the normal thing? Not for extended periods of time.
I love seeing the budget builds, the fact that I'm not doing one is no big deal. My prices may be high, but I always try to be on the high side of things. This is, after all, forced induction.
Carry on with your thread.
The converter wasn't meant to be nitpicking, I actually meant to add a preface that it wasn't far off from your estimate. This account is the new kid to LS1Tech, I and the rest of us, are definitely, definitely not
The lower prices are not meant to be undercutting anyone so much as our lower overhead and the position we are allowed by making some of our own parts in house or through very close connections we're lucky to have.Yeah, like I said about the fuel, that can most definitely vary. I think we're on a mutual understanding there.
That sucks about the tuning man, I really mean that. One of us has been there and done that, so I can't completely disagree with you. I'm very possessive and like to do everything I can myself as well. We have HPTuners in the shop for our own personal stuff, so I'm definitely not going to fault you there.
Let me make it clear that I did not say a word about engines because I am the same way as you. I don't do budget builds either although I do respect them. I sure as hell don't take the side of 1200hp on a stock bottom end. To me, and this carries into everything I do both in my personal and professional life, it's all about the details. The things you or the buyer of your product will never see but you know are there and when they add up help a lot. Things that are built tastefully and built well are what I choose, and it may be more expensive in both the long and short run, but that's why my build has been going on for over 2 years now. I don't mind waiting to do it once and to have it done the best it can be for what I'm trying to do.
You should see the 4L80E I have designed for my own car. The engine is a forged 370ci with a 10.0:1 compression ratio, built for boost, but will likely be N/A for a bit. Despite this, the 4L80E I'm planning will be a more extreme setup than anything I have ever seen built to date and even at my cost, will cost me more than some of the rebuilds we offer as a complete setup for the average customer.
When I rebuilt the 60E in my V6 Firebird, I built it to the moon even though it was just a basic 3-4 clutch pack slip, but the thing could easily hold over 500hp. I'll be presumptuous and claim it the world's strongest V6 F-body 4L60E
I'm kind of going off topic here (although there wasn't much of a topic to begin with one could say...) but don't think I was trying to be a ***** on purpose, just merely provide some clarification or another perspective
06-16-2014, 08:21 PM
#43
Restricted User
$280 for a shifter and XXX for a crossmember? Hurst Quarterstick is $200, and a crossmember can be made for next to nothing.
In-fact, I made my crossmember out of a single piece of 2" square tubing with NO welding.
There are those that find spending in excess a necessity. The fact that they admit they are spending in excess is nothing but them admitting it isn't necessary.
In-fact, I made my crossmember out of a single piece of 2" square tubing with NO welding.
There are those that find spending in excess a necessity. The fact that they admit they are spending in excess is nothing but them admitting it isn't necessary.
06-16-2014, 08:28 PM
#44
You don't need a shifter. That's optional, a crossmember is not. Still quite a bit of ways from your 5k quote.
The converter wasn't meant to be nitpicking, I actually meant to add a preface that it wasn't far off from your estimate. This account is the new kid to LS1Tech, I and the rest of us, are definitely, definitely not The lower prices are not meant to be undercutting anyone so much as our lower overhead and the position we are allowed by making some of our own parts in house or through very close connections we're lucky to have.
Yeah, like I said about the fuel, that can most definitely vary. I think we're on a mutual understanding there.
That sucks about the tuning man, I really mean that. One of us has been there and done that, so I can't completely disagree with you. I'm very possessive and like to do everything I can myself as well. We have HPTuners in the shop for our own personal stuff, so I'm definitely not going to fault you there.
Let me make it clear that I did not say a word about engines because I am the same way as you. I don't do budget builds either although I do respect them. I sure as hell don't take the side of 1200hp on a stock bottom end. To me, and this carries into everything I do both in my personal and professional life, it's all about the details. The things you or the buyer of your product will never see but you know are there and when they add up help a lot. Things that are built tastefully and built well are what I choose, and it may be more expensive in both the long and short run, but that's why my build has been going on for over 2 years now. I don't mind waiting to do it once and to have it done the best it can be for what I'm trying to do.
You should see the 4L80E I have designed for my own car. The engine is a forged 370ci with a 10.0:1 compression ratio, built for boost, but will likely be N/A for a bit. Despite this, the 4L80E I'm planning will be a more extreme setup than anything I have ever seen built to date and even at my cost, will cost me more than some of the rebuilds we offer as a complete setup for the average customer.
When I rebuilt the 60E in my V6 Firebird, I built it to the moon even though it was just a basic 3-4 clutch pack slip, but the thing could easily hold over 500hp. I'll be presumptuous and claim it the world's strongest V6 F-body 4L60E
I'm kind of going off topic here (although there wasn't much of a topic to begin with one could say...) but don't think I was trying to be a ***** on purpose, just merely provide some clarification or another perspective
The converter wasn't meant to be nitpicking, I actually meant to add a preface that it wasn't far off from your estimate. This account is the new kid to LS1Tech, I and the rest of us, are definitely, definitely not
The lower prices are not meant to be undercutting anyone so much as our lower overhead and the position we are allowed by making some of our own parts in house or through very close connections we're lucky to have.Yeah, like I said about the fuel, that can most definitely vary. I think we're on a mutual understanding there.
That sucks about the tuning man, I really mean that. One of us has been there and done that, so I can't completely disagree with you. I'm very possessive and like to do everything I can myself as well. We have HPTuners in the shop for our own personal stuff, so I'm definitely not going to fault you there.
Let me make it clear that I did not say a word about engines because I am the same way as you. I don't do budget builds either although I do respect them. I sure as hell don't take the side of 1200hp on a stock bottom end. To me, and this carries into everything I do both in my personal and professional life, it's all about the details. The things you or the buyer of your product will never see but you know are there and when they add up help a lot. Things that are built tastefully and built well are what I choose, and it may be more expensive in both the long and short run, but that's why my build has been going on for over 2 years now. I don't mind waiting to do it once and to have it done the best it can be for what I'm trying to do.
You should see the 4L80E I have designed for my own car. The engine is a forged 370ci with a 10.0:1 compression ratio, built for boost, but will likely be N/A for a bit. Despite this, the 4L80E I'm planning will be a more extreme setup than anything I have ever seen built to date and even at my cost, will cost me more than some of the rebuilds we offer as a complete setup for the average customer.
When I rebuilt the 60E in my V6 Firebird, I built it to the moon even though it was just a basic 3-4 clutch pack slip, but the thing could easily hold over 500hp. I'll be presumptuous and claim it the world's strongest V6 F-body 4L60E
I'm kind of going off topic here (although there wasn't much of a topic to begin with one could say...) but don't think I was trying to be a ***** on purpose, just merely provide some clarification or another perspective
06-17-2014, 07:21 AM
#48
Lots of ****-n-vinegar in here I see....
A couple things I noticed...
With this board, and this specific section (FI) people are very knowledgeable, and willing to help, but they won't spoon feed you. Example, if you stated that you had xxx cubic inches, with xyz turbo, so what converter should you go with, you'd get a whole slew of suggestions. But to just ask for a recipe to make 1000-1200hp on a stock bottom end, GO, doesn't fly around here.
It's like in the the tuning/pcm section when people post their tune and ask for people to look at it, without any logs or specific questions, it just doesn't happen.
Let me ask this, would you walk into a fancy country club and ask 'how do I become wealthy'? What type of response would you expect.
As someone new to this board, let me welcome you here and give you a bit of advice. You will only get what you give here. Give nothing, and you'll get nothing in return. But if you come in and say my plans are this.... please advise. You'd get quite a bit of positive feedback.
So read. Start with some of the stickies, then do a few searches of some of the 1000+hp builds, and you'll start to see a common theme.
A couple things I noticed...
With this board, and this specific section (FI) people are very knowledgeable, and willing to help, but they won't spoon feed you. Example, if you stated that you had xxx cubic inches, with xyz turbo, so what converter should you go with, you'd get a whole slew of suggestions. But to just ask for a recipe to make 1000-1200hp on a stock bottom end, GO, doesn't fly around here.
It's like in the the tuning/pcm section when people post their tune and ask for people to look at it, without any logs or specific questions, it just doesn't happen.
Let me ask this, would you walk into a fancy country club and ask 'how do I become wealthy'? What type of response would you expect.
As someone new to this board, let me welcome you here and give you a bit of advice. You will only get what you give here. Give nothing, and you'll get nothing in return. But if you come in and say my plans are this.... please advise. You'd get quite a bit of positive feedback.
So read. Start with some of the stickies, then do a few searches of some of the 1000+hp builds, and you'll start to see a common theme.
06-17-2014, 07:44 AM
#49
What you need is simple...
Stock 5.3 200,000+ miles preferred so the ring gaps are nice
Zo6 cam
A couple of those bosch 044's
Some 80lb injectors
Twin ebay gt45's
This combo right here will probably make 1300hp on e85. Get all this stuff and post back when you surpass your goals!
Stock 5.3 200,000+ miles preferred so the ring gaps are nice
Zo6 cam
A couple of those bosch 044's
Some 80lb injectors
Twin ebay gt45's
This combo right here will probably make 1300hp on e85. Get all this stuff and post back when you surpass your goals!
06-17-2014, 07:46 AM
#50
Lots of ****-n-vinegar in here I see....
A couple things I noticed...
With this board, and this specific section (FI) people are very knowledgeable, and willing to help, but they won't spoon feed you. Example, if you stated that you had xxx cubic inches, with xyz turbo, so what converter should you go with, you'd get a whole slew of suggestions. But to just ask for a recipe to make 1000-1200hp on a stock bottom end, GO, doesn't fly around here.
It's like in the the tuning/pcm section when people post their tune and ask for people to look at it, without any logs or specific questions, it just doesn't happen.
Let me ask this, would you walk into a fancy country club and ask 'how do I become wealthy'? What type of response would you expect.
As someone new to this board, let me welcome you here and give you a bit of advice. You will only get what you give here. Give nothing, and you'll get nothing in return. But if you come in and say my plans are this.... please advise. You'd get quite a bit of positive feedback.
So read. Start with some of the stickies, then do a few searches of some of the 1000+hp builds, and you'll start to see a common theme.
A couple things I noticed...
With this board, and this specific section (FI) people are very knowledgeable, and willing to help, but they won't spoon feed you. Example, if you stated that you had xxx cubic inches, with xyz turbo, so what converter should you go with, you'd get a whole slew of suggestions. But to just ask for a recipe to make 1000-1200hp on a stock bottom end, GO, doesn't fly around here.
It's like in the the tuning/pcm section when people post their tune and ask for people to look at it, without any logs or specific questions, it just doesn't happen.
Let me ask this, would you walk into a fancy country club and ask 'how do I become wealthy'? What type of response would you expect.
As someone new to this board, let me welcome you here and give you a bit of advice. You will only get what you give here. Give nothing, and you'll get nothing in return. But if you come in and say my plans are this.... please advise. You'd get quite a bit of positive feedback.
So read. Start with some of the stickies, then do a few searches of some of the 1000+hp builds, and you'll start to see a common theme.
Theres alot to it than just saying 1,000hp on a stock bottom end, can it be done? Prob so, but alot of time and serious tuning will be requiered of course quite some $.
06-17-2014, 08:48 AM
#51
Teching In
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...evelle-ss.html
06-17-2014, 10:11 PM
#53
1200 horsepower and the word, "cheap" just can not go together.
A transmission to hold that power is at least $5,000 USD
$1200USD+ converter
Rear end (if fbody, you never even stated what car this is) for 1200HP - ~$4000 USD
Fuel system - $3,000 USD
Turbo kit - $5,000+++ USD
Tuning system/software - $1,000 to $3,000+ USD
Engine to hold 1,200HP? At least $5,000 USD by the time you're done. Unless you have hand me down parts or nice friends.
You should come to the table expecting to spend at least $20,000 USD. I grossly undervalued those prices above, just to keep up with the theme of the threadI'm shooting for 1,000HP+. It's not cheap!
You have so much reading ahead of you if you really want to make this a reality. No one can sit here and type all these details out in one sitting. It's not possible, especially when all the information you need is already out there. Good luck!
A transmission to hold that power is at least $5,000 USD
$1200USD+ converter
Rear end (if fbody, you never even stated what car this is) for 1200HP - ~$4000 USD
Fuel system - $3,000 USD
Turbo kit - $5,000+++ USD
Tuning system/software - $1,000 to $3,000+ USD
Engine to hold 1,200HP? At least $5,000 USD by the time you're done. Unless you have hand me down parts or nice friends.
You should come to the table expecting to spend at least $20,000 USD. I grossly undervalued those prices above, just to keep up with the theme of the thread
I'm shooting for 1,000HP+. It's not cheap!You have so much reading ahead of you if you really want to make this a reality. No one can sit here and type all these details out in one sitting. It's not possible, especially when all the information you need is already out there. Good luck!
It's not like we're breaking new ground here.
I think you could build a 1000whp setup for much less than what you're talking about, especially if it's mostly a street car.
Starting from the rear. You could maybe get by with an built 8.8 in a lighter car or if you went 9" this post goes already covers costs etc
https://ls1tech.com/forums/14244178-post15.html
Cost about $1500
Driveshaft
A simple 3.5" steel driveshaft with 150 u-joints can be built by your local driveshaft shop for under $500
Transmission
th400 or glide if you want, neither is 5k unless you need a 4l80e but thats a luxury.
Converter
$1200+ agreed on this one.. can't cut costs here
Fuel System
Dual Bosch 044s are good for 1000whp using E85 much less gas.
$500 for pumps
$600 for injectors http://fuelinjectorconnection.com/sh...p?productid=21
Misc EFI hoses Clamps Hard lines flaring etc - no more than $250
Engine
Could be 5,000 but forged rods/pistons studs ans ls9 head gaskets is all you need in an iron block to hold these numbers. Between parts and machine/assembly I think you could do it cheaper.
Tuning Software?
Bring it to an experienced tuner with EFI live $500
Turbo Setup
Ohio boys are making more than 1000whp through truck manifolds. Crossovers using truck manifolds are vailable for a few hundred bucks. Your local exhaust shop should be able to make a down pipe for less than $500 with mandrel bends
Turbo
Borg Warner S476 - $850
Twin Tial44 or other premium WG - $750
BOV - Twin premium units 500-600$
Intercooler - Ebay specials have been used many times in some very fast cars Under $500
Cold side piping... depends on your fab skills figure $500 doing some work on your own or some light fab help.
Oil lines other misc - $250
Other people have done this before
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...hp-budget.html
I think it could realistically be done for 15k especially if you're looking for a fast street car. If you're chasing reliable ETs you'll need more money
06-19-2014, 12:44 AM
#57
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (49)
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: detroit
Posts: 1,518
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
this thread lol, so many misleading things i doubt a standard s480 will support 1200hp let alone using a cheap ebay intercooler. your best bet would be to call a good engine builder(KUP,BRIGGS ETC) and ask them. stock pistons and rods wont last long with that kind of power
06-19-2014, 08:05 AM
#59
Im prob at the low end of the power scale but have timeslips that reflect close to 1000hp on both the car and truck. Both are 2004 up lq4's with ARP Head studs, Ls9 head gaskets, mild ported 317 heads, JFR triple 12, and 218 cams, Isky single valve springs, Isky pushrods, stock truck intake manifolds, KBRacing truck style turbo kits with forcedinductions 76mm, and 80mm turbos. The car has been up and running for over a year, and truck going on 3yrs and 20k + miles. Neither has had even a valve cover pulled since put into service. All I can say about making power with stock bottom ends is tune, tune, and tune combined with good fuel, E85, and or meth injection. If you are careful these stock engines will take an unbelievable amount of power, and abuse. Get the tune wrong, or bad fuel and you can kill one below 500 hp.
06-19-2014, 08:41 AM
#60
If your car actually hooks worth a damn everything will need to be much stronger for it to be reliable.
Forget drag racing how about road racing. You want a twin turbo 1000whp setup that works at a roadcourse and forget about it... it's going to be insanely expensive
So how you're using the car makes a big difference... which is a point most people here seem to overlook, and sometimes it makes MORE of a difference than how much power your making.
That was my point