Truck Inlet Hat On D1sc and F1a, How Are You Guys Keeping It From Falling Off?????
#1
Truck Inlet Hat On D1sc and F1a, How Are You Guys Keeping It From Falling Off?????
hey Guys i have the Truck Inlet Hat on My D1sc from Bob over At BruteSpeed, It keeps Falling Off!??! ive tried so hard with a t-bolt clamp to keep it on but still falls off after i drive for a few minutes.... getting really F'ing Aggravating! Hows Everyone Have Theirs Staying In Place??
#4
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Of that's a hard molded plastic?
The inside is probably very slick.
Some options to try. Just suggestions.
Rough the ID of the tube. With some
Rough sandpaper.
Heat the tube up with a heat gun prior to install where the plastic is a little soft.
Then clamp it tight.
Making sure your clamp is not on the raised lip of the blower.
Cut 2 little slits 90 degrees tomthe opening
as wide as your clamp in the plastic.
180 degrees apart. (Simple hack saw blade)
This will allow the plastic to collapse more.
I'm not a blower guy but have used all the above options over the years when a part would not stay ahold of what I was clamping.
The inside is probably very slick.
Some options to try. Just suggestions.
Rough the ID of the tube. With some
Rough sandpaper.
Heat the tube up with a heat gun prior to install where the plastic is a little soft.
Then clamp it tight.
Making sure your clamp is not on the raised lip of the blower.
Cut 2 little slits 90 degrees tomthe opening
as wide as your clamp in the plastic.
180 degrees apart. (Simple hack saw blade)
This will allow the plastic to collapse more.
I'm not a blower guy but have used all the above options over the years when a part would not stay ahold of what I was clamping.
#7
The clamping area on the D1SC Procharger inlet is minimal.
I grind the lip on the outer edge of the HAT smooth so the clamp can get closer to the Procharger. Once you tighten the T Bolt clamp, the plastic inlet will form to the "LIP" on the Inlet of the supercharger.
I grind the lip on the outer edge of the HAT smooth so the clamp can get closer to the Procharger. Once you tighten the T Bolt clamp, the plastic inlet will form to the "LIP" on the Inlet of the supercharger.
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#8
i already flattened the edge of the plastic so the clamp sat right against the procharger but still keeps coming off, its dark now and i dont have a garage but i will try heating it up and cutting two slits in it in the morning and see if it works, i may "hairspray" for good measure lol
#9
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Your clamp has to be sitting flush against the procharger or else it will pull the inlet off because the width of the clamp is about the same width of the lip on the procharger. So if the clamp isn't flush against the procharger, as you tighten it, it will actually pull it off the inlet.
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I had an f1a on my car but what I did was cut a small slit in the inlet hat where it goes on to the head unit. I think it was about as long as the width of the clamp. That allows the clamp to compress the plastic inlet hat tighter onto the head unit. I then tightened the hell out of the t bolt clamp and never had an issue with it coming off.
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Hairspray has always worked well for me on charge pipe stuff, but on intake T bolt clamps are great, but not always the best choice. Is there a lip on the procharger? I had something similar to this happen to me on another project and it turned out that the t bolt clamp was to wide. It was just creating all the force on the lip. So I swapped the clamp out for a tradition worm drive clamp from lowes. It was only about 3/8" wide and when I clamped it down it was behind the lip and it couldn't slide off. The t bolt clamp was around d 3/4" wide and just too wide and it couldn't bite down behind the lip.
#14
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A wide banded T-Bolt where the metal flange is small can easily be counter productive.
A normal worm style clamp might work better.
As that's the suction side ( and bound to be lots of suction with a restrictive pipe like that ) you really shouldnt need a lot of clamping force.
I also see something wedged in front of the pipe ? This too could be counter productive when the engine is moving, actually encouraging the pipe to work its way off.
Cut slits in the diameter, use a normal thin clamp, ensure the clamp is properly seated on the flange as close to the blower as possible. And ensure the hat itself isnt under any stress or getting pulled
A normal worm style clamp might work better.
As that's the suction side ( and bound to be lots of suction with a restrictive pipe like that ) you really shouldnt need a lot of clamping force.
I also see something wedged in front of the pipe ? This too could be counter productive when the engine is moving, actually encouraging the pipe to work its way off.
Cut slits in the diameter, use a normal thin clamp, ensure the clamp is properly seated on the flange as close to the blower as possible. And ensure the hat itself isnt under any stress or getting pulled
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The clamping area on the D1SC Procharger inlet is minimal.
I grind the lip on the outer edge of the HAT smooth so the clamp can get closer to the Procharger. Once you tighten the T Bolt clamp, the plastic inlet will form to the "LIP" on the Inlet of the supercharger.
I grind the lip on the outer edge of the HAT smooth so the clamp can get closer to the Procharger. Once you tighten the T Bolt clamp, the plastic inlet will form to the "LIP" on the Inlet of the supercharger.
Another thing, make sure the hat is allowed to move a bit with the engine. If the tube/filter are fixed to the body, motor flex with pull it right off. I cut a good bit of the truck hat tubing off and replaced it with 4" flex hose to the filter like the stock hat configuration.