coltboostin

No prob, and thank you.



For reference, this is the regulator I bought-Identical to the Aeromotive 13109, and the fittings are much nicer than expected!!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Adjustable-Fuel-Pressure-Regulator-Oil-100psi-Gauge-AN-6-Fitting-End-/151491013461?hash=item2345916b55&vxp=mtr

mkvamso

iTrader: (2)

I'm using stock rails with a new feed and the factory feed as a return
Just have a Russell quick connect fitting from the rail back to the regulator

Working like a champ so far

Congrats on the little one
My daughter is a little over a year old now, they can change your priorities quick...lol

coltboostin

Interesting. Where do you have the feed now an how did you install the fitting? I had planned on using the stock rail for a dual feed set up when I step up to dual 044's. Planning on welding fittings onto the rail. Would love to see what you came up with!

mkvamso

iTrader: (2)

I'm using racetronix twin 340s
They have a bracket holding them together and a billet coupler, no need for a yblock
They feed to a bulkhead fitting in the top of the bucket
Old feed just showers the pumps now that there isn't much of the bucket left
I have the regulator mounted to the firewall and a couple quick connect fittings from the old feed to the return side and another from the rail to the new feed side of the regulator

1320king

iTrader: (4)

Gotta be honest, I would use cheap stuff on anything NOT going to possibly catch my car on fire ahahhahaha. I have personally seen the those ebay fuel fittings / lines / regulators leak over time. Hope you are keeping an eye on it. The regulator I saw fail was easily avoidable. Bolts worked themselves out. Little lock tight and your good i guess.

mkvamso

iTrader: (2)

Mine is mostly all aeromotive except the gm quick connect to an adapters from Russell and the bulkhead fittings are from improved racing
They have nice fittings for about half of what aeromotives cost

coltboostin

Oh, I misunderstood!! I took this

I'm using stock rails with a new feed and the factory feed as a return

As meaning

I'm using stock rails with a new RAIL feed and the factory RAIL feed as a return

I was expecting an in and out on you set up-my bad! Looks nice though.

I don't disagree. Over the years I have learned that I need to inspect all ebay junk before install for savings- lose bolts..ect. I typically take WGs apart, lube the shaft- and do check fasteners on things like FPRs. Really, the key is finding a distributor that always has the better quality stuff, and sticking with it. The FPR I linked for example is the most expensive ebay FPR you can get, but I have found it to be the best quality by far-worth the extra $15-$20

1320king

iTrader: (4)

Iam 100% with you on that. Got an ebay throttle body. Saw a bunch of complaints and when I got it I took it apart, lubed everything, and put lock tight on all the bolts. So far so good and saved about $200!

coltboostin

Nice!!! Wonder what will happen when some over there gets the bright idea to duplicate a FAST manifold..... :I

mkvamso

iTrader: (2)

I've seen a few builds where people do that using a 97 corvette rail
It has a factory feed and return

coltboostin

Thats good to know!

coltboostin

So I got lucky and had the opportunity to attend a track rental this week. Tossed everything in the car and headed out on a hot, humid day. I’d have to say I am very happy with my first outing in this thing!

First 2 passes I just rolled out to check AFRs, and set my boost stages. She was running a bit rich, but rich is safe and I had no way to log or change anything, so I set my 2rd stage at 15 psi (spikes to 16, and settles)
3rd pass on my street tires just letting the clutch out netted a 11.5@141.6mph Happy with that. On goes the slicks.

1st pass, I just went down the track to see how the car felt as it was my first time these tires I bought used….felt great. Second pass I wanted to see how it felt in boost. Rolled out and mowed through some gears-felt great.
3rd pass-I let the clutch our and immediately went for it. As a reminder the car has stock NA rear end, so I wanted to try and not break it that day.
10.5@145.7mph with a 1.8 60 foot. Love it! I started the pass @ 230 degrees of coolant temp, so timing was down and fuel was up. 8psi 1,2, and 3rd switching to 15psi in 3rd.

This was with 400lbs on meat in the car (me 180 and my buddy 220) so really I could not be happier! DA was 2185-90 degrees Humidity was 85% according to accuweather!

Sadly, after this pass my buddy broke his car, so we loaded him up in the trailer and packed up to head home. What may have been most impressive for this trip was the drive home-there was a bad accident and it was rush hour. A 45 minute drive turned into 3+ hours in 90+ degree heat, high humidity, with stop and go driving. We were miserable inside the car but the car did great!
Here’s the video. Thanks to Miguel Lopez for putting it together.


Some things I learned –

Similar to high HP FWD 5 speed cars I have owned in the past, more hook=more MPH. This goes against conventional auto V8 wisdoms, but when you are literally spinning though the 1/8th, you are losing time opportunity to accelerate, and losing mph

I need a lower gear. The car fell out of boost worst going into 5th, and since its inherently weaker due to its size, I don’t want to race the car in 5th if I can avoid it. Also, if I could be in my power band more of the pass, it will get significantly faster with no change in power.

I need more cooling capacity. Even though it was HOT, no pass was stared cooler than 225 degrees, and even with a 15 minute cool off, it simple ran hot all day. It got as hot as 240-250 on the way home in traffic. I am using a radiator I found laying in my parts pile-time to upgrade!

I cant WAIT to see what she does when I can apply full power, and keep it in the power band longer with a better rear gear! This car has already seen a lot of “use” this year and has been great so far! More to come…

jleews6

iTrader: (2)

That MPH looks promising considering the boost and it sounds like the car is geared way to low. Get the right gear in it and turn it up and I wouldnt be surprised to see 160 MPH. Pretty impressive!

coltboostin

For sure-just stuck with stock parts for now, and there are no "bolt in" Mazda options I can utilize. Stuck with the 4.10!



Also worth noting-this was also without a Tach. Still working on sorting that out, but I was guessing-to-shift...not fun when you have to make 4 of them. Looking back, I may have short sifted 5th and thats why it had a lazy recovery?

Need to get working TACH asap!

95bowtie

Haven't posted in this ever but read through the **** fest of all the naysayers of the dyno numbers.

So far on only 15psi it is trapping about where it should be. Bet the dyno traps what it should on 20+ psi as well.

Where they all at now?

jleews6

iTrader: (2)

Plus the fact that the RPM drop from 4th to 5th is huge.

rotary1307cc

iTrader: (5)

Your shitting me right? 145 is what 650whp on a good day?

Do you understand the power difference between 145 and 160? Because doesn't sound like it

All I hear is excuses

Ryans99ls1

iTrader: (16)

the fact that you did this without a tach is seriously...impressive?? car will definitely to respond to longer gears too

coltboostin

Pissing in some else's cheerios. Its all good, Im happy. Let em' hate!

They would say that does not effect anything. Me shifting 1-5 and it falling on its face in 5th should trap as high as an auto car that is in boost and hooked up the whole pass- duh!! Didn't you know? LOL


It made 740 whp @ 15 psi on a dry 50 degree day that probably had a negative DA lol. Also, on they dyno my temps where at 180 deg...at the 230 deg the car was at on track, the car was rich with reduced timing. It was defiantly not making the same power, not should it be expected to.

You want to compare that to the 90+ Degree steam room I was racing in, well I would have nothing to reply to that! LOL


Since some people where PMing me, The car is a heavy pig of an RX7 around 3000lbs, and had 400lbs worth on people in it for that pass, so race weight that day was approximately 3400lbs. According to http://www.nitrousexpress.com/oldweb...alculators.htm that puts me at 718whp, and thats not factoring in the fact that its only at full boost for the back half of the track.


What excuses, again?

coltboostin

The haters would say that's not a factor, but I say its a pain in the ***!


The tach works only when the car is cold. As soon as it gets to temp, the signal is gone (or, at least the tach does not work) I have not found anything on the forums about it, so I am still not sure if its the gauge or the ECU. I will admit the car's wiring is hoaky at best, but I need to dive into this! Just tough with 2 kids under 2-I cant runt he car when I put my boy to bed so I cant troubleshoot the issue unless I have a free weekend-in which case I just want o drive the car instead f fixing little issues.