Turbo 5.3 build... GM's TTY headbolts?
#1
Turbo 5.3 build... GM's TTY headbolts?
this site has offered me a **** TON of great info on my build, but i have one question that isn't covered much at all and gets mixed opinions. how much power/boost/timing can a new set of OEM TTY headbolts hold?
heres the build:
all stock 5.3L LM7 shortblock out of a 2002 suburban with 92k miles
top ring gap opened to 0.028" and ARP rod bolts for piece of mind.
untouched 243 heads with PAC 1218 springs
LS9 head gaskets
untouched LS6 intake and throttle body
rocker trunion upgrade, comp pushrods, LS7 lifters
224/224 0.563/0.563 114+4 cam
T72 turbo, T4 0.96 AR
air-to-water intercooler
91 octane pump gas (no meth, no race gas mix, no E85 mix. just straight pump gas at all times)
walbro 400 intank and 60lb injectors, 50lbs base pressure. will keep the AFR in the mid to high 11's
I'm thinking somewhere in the range of 12-15 pounds of boost and probibly about 12 degrees of timing. this will be in a street driven 2500lb car. aiming for about 600rwhp (or close to it). So whats the verdict? think i'll be fine with a new set of GM's TTY headbolts or no? any and all suggestions will be appriciated. thanks!
heres the build:
all stock 5.3L LM7 shortblock out of a 2002 suburban with 92k miles
top ring gap opened to 0.028" and ARP rod bolts for piece of mind.
untouched 243 heads with PAC 1218 springs
LS9 head gaskets
untouched LS6 intake and throttle body
rocker trunion upgrade, comp pushrods, LS7 lifters
224/224 0.563/0.563 114+4 cam
T72 turbo, T4 0.96 AR
air-to-water intercooler
91 octane pump gas (no meth, no race gas mix, no E85 mix. just straight pump gas at all times)
walbro 400 intank and 60lb injectors, 50lbs base pressure. will keep the AFR in the mid to high 11's
I'm thinking somewhere in the range of 12-15 pounds of boost and probibly about 12 degrees of timing. this will be in a street driven 2500lb car. aiming for about 600rwhp (or close to it). So whats the verdict? think i'll be fine with a new set of GM's TTY headbolts or no? any and all suggestions will be appriciated. thanks!
Last edited by TexasTechX1; 08-05-2014 at 10:52 AM.
#3
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PC-SBC-Small-Block-Chevy-LS1-LS6-Cylinder-Head-Stud-Kit-4-8L-5-7L-04-up-/301193251469?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4620844a8d&vxp=mtr
Most junkyard guys use these. Work like a charm apparently...
Most junkyard guys use these. Work like a charm apparently...
#5
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PC-SBC-LS1-LS6-LS2-97-03-Cylinder-Head-Stud-Kit-4-8L-5-7L-6-0L-12-Point-Head-/271541892211?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f39287473&vxp=mtr#ht_376wt_1124
This is the set i was looking at, says they are made by Pro Comp.
This is the set i was looking at, says they are made by Pro Comp.
#7
have a second set for the 5.3 aluminum block motor i'm putting together for a sn95 mustang swap (will be running the same rough setup as my jeep)
just buy the cheap china studs inspect them carefully and put them in
all fasteners have a defect rate (seen an arp rod bolt break and take out an gmpp lsx block) (sorry for destroying your piece of mind)
the number of engines running the pro comp china studs vs the failure rate
the odds are definitely in your favor
i don't like using headbolts (tty or not) on any application near or above 14.7psi
if you had a fresh built bottom end with a bunch of super expensive parts i would say use the arp studs
put the extra $$ in the junkyard motor fund (chances are you won't need it but hey)