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Turbo Review; On3 Billet BB 67mm

 
Old 12-23-2014, 10:08 PM
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maybe I missed it, but what motor/displacement is this going on?
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Old 12-28-2014, 12:24 AM
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5.7-bone stock LS1

Results-

On gate-8psi-540whp

at 14.8 psi (202 logged KPA) it made 736whp/654 trq. Full spool happened around 4800 in 4th (410 rear gear/T56). Honestly surprised how much HP per PSI this think was picking up. It was already a long night and we had not drank enough to throw 20+psi
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Old 12-28-2014, 12:46 AM
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damn those are some good numbers
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Old 12-28-2014, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by coltboostin View Post
5.7-bone stock LS1 Results- On gate-8psi-540whp at 14.8 psi (202 logged KPA) it made 736whp/654 trq. Full spool happened around 4800 in 4th (410 rear gear/T56). Honestly surprised how much HP per PSI this think was picking up. It was already a long night and we had not drank enough to throw 20+psi
What kind of timing where you guys throwing at it.
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Old 12-28-2014, 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by oscs View Post
What kind of timing where you guys throwing at it.
15 Deg. One blip of knock on the 3 verification pulls before we pulled it off the dyno

Video! only one for now..more coming when someone gets them off the go pro

https://ls1tech.com/forums/multimedi...stock-ls1.html
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Old 12-28-2014, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by coltboostin View Post
15 Deg. One blip of knock on the 3 verification pulls before we pulled it off the dyno Video! only one for now..more coming when someone gets them off the go pro https://ls1tech.com/forums/multimedi...stock-ls1.html
Never mind just saw the 12psi. You said you weren't using the boost controller. What springs where you running in the gates? I have some 14lb springs lying around and I'm debating on throwing them in before I wire up the boost controller. I'm a it nervous going from 6lb springs to 14lb though. Seems like a massive jump all at once.

Last edited by oscs; 12-28-2014 at 10:32 PM.
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Old 12-29-2014, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by oscs View Post
Never mind just saw the 12psi. You said you weren't using the boost controller. What springs where you running in the gates? I have some 14lb springs lying around and I'm debating on throwing them in before I wire up the boost controller. I'm a it nervous going from 6lb springs to 14lb though. Seems like a massive jump all at once.
In my years of DIYing I have become good at T bleeding to achieve my desired boost pressure in a pinch. In this case, with 8 lbs springs- I was able to bleed to 12, then 14 psi successfully. No spike, held till redline! Only reason I did this was I forgot my boost controller at home!!!!

In your case, I would NOT toss the 14 psi spring in there unless you are 100% sure the tune is spot on. Get a manual BC (should have anyways), and gradually bring it up. If you are happy with everything around 15psi, and are ok with not being able to turn it down, toss the spring in there. At 15psi, my car has zero traction in 1-5th, so I will have to bring in the boost slowly to keep traction on the street and strip. For that reason, I prob wont go higher than a 10 psi spring.
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Old 12-29-2014, 09:20 AM
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For reference, this is what I came up with in the pinch LOL. Good for 14.5 to redline, maybe a 5kpa spike at most


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Old 12-29-2014, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by coltboostin View Post
. At 15psi, my car has zero traction in 1-5th, so I will have to bring in the boost slowly to keep traction on the street and strip. For that reason, I prob wont go higher than a 10 psi spring.
Still running the mazda 4.10 gear? I'd think with that kind of power you'll be out of gear really quickly.
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Old 12-29-2014, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by coltboostin View Post
In my years of DIYing I have become good at T bleeding to achieve my desired boost pressure in a pinch. In this case, with 8 lbs springs- I was able to bleed to 12, then 14 psi successfully. No spike, held till redline! Only reason I did this was I forgot my boost controller at home!!!! In your case, I would NOT toss the 14 psi spring in there unless you are 100% sure the tune is spot on. Get a manual BC (should have anyways), and gradually bring it up. If you are happy with everything around 15psi, and are ok with not being able to turn it down, toss the spring in there. At 15psi, my car has zero traction in 1-5th, so I will have to bring in the boost slowly to keep traction on the street and strip. For that reason, I prob wont go higher than a 10 psi spring.
Honestly with the Holley making the corrections I'm not worried about the tune. Preferably I would like to go in incremental PSI levels @ full throttle. I'll probably just quit being lazy and wire the damn controller up lol.
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Old 12-29-2014, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by coltboostin View Post
For reference, this is what I came up with in the pinch LOL. Good for 14.5 to redline, maybe a 5kpa spike at most
Strategically placed boost leaks? that's awesome.
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Old 12-29-2014, 11:40 AM
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Always looking to grow my knowledge. This is a great thread showing what potentials actually are.

Couple questions for the experienced. Being new the boosted world, I picked up a basic $300 76mm One3 for my initial build, with intentions of possibly upgrading later provided the chassis will get to a point that it will handle higher #'s. Truck is going to be street driven 90% of time, weekend warrior looking to endgame in the 10's with a focus on engine/turbo longevity.

Looking at several things. If a guy had $800-1000 to dump into a turbo and had these options, whats the benefits of them(without nitpicking ARs etc): One3 ball bearing 76mm(non-billet wheel). current turbo in this thread, or I've ran into turbonetics 78/76 ball bearing non-billet wheel for 900-100.

I guess my question is more along the lines of I assume having a ball bearing will equate to fast spool time and ultimately longer overall life? And billet wheel turbos are just more efficient?
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Old 12-29-2014, 05:47 PM
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unless youre driving around on that $300 76, i would focus more on getting running and learning to tune than what a better turbo would be.
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Old 12-29-2014, 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by static low 92 View Post
Always looking to grow my knowledge. This is a great thread showing what potentials actually are.

Couple questions for the experienced. Being new the boosted world, I picked up a basic $300 76mm One3 for my initial build, with intentions of possibly upgrading later provided the chassis will get to a point that it will handle higher #'s. Truck is going to be street driven 90% of time, weekend warrior looking to endgame in the 10's with a focus on engine/turbo longevity.

Looking at several things. If a guy had $800-1000 to dump into a turbo and had these options, whats the benefits of them(without nitpicking ARs etc): One3 ball bearing 76mm(non-billet wheel). current turbo in this thread, or I've ran into turbonetics 78/76 ball bearing non-billet wheel for 900-100.

I guess my question is more along the lines of I assume having a ball bearing will equate to fast spool time and ultimately longer overall life? And billet wheel turbos are just more efficient?
BB turbos don't make much difference in the 2jz, much less in a big v8 as far as spooling, turbonetics will suit you better because it's a lil bigger.
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Old 12-30-2014, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by TrendSetter View Post
unless youre driving around on that $300 76, i would focus more on getting running and learning to tune than what a better turbo would be.
I am not worried about it right away, just figured I'd try to understand the benefits if any while this thread is active.


Truck will go together with what I have until either it fails or I think I need more...
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Old 12-30-2014, 08:02 PM
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I can't find this turbo anywhere on the On3 website. Or maybe I am just missing it?
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Old 12-30-2014, 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by TurboMonte View Post
I can't find this turbo anywhere on the On3 website. Or maybe I am just missing it?
Link on the first page...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/On-3-Performance-Billet-67-67mm-Ceramic-Ball-Bearing-Turbocharger-CNC-Comp-Wheel/141523502959?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140602152332%26meid%3D804aebbe9df9491c9d9ef57b60f68b51%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D20140602152332%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D131310587772
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Old 12-31-2014, 07:30 AM
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D'oh. Well don't I feel like an idiot!

Haha, thanks for that!
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Old 01-04-2015, 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Forcefed86 View Post
Still running the mazda 4.10 gear? I'd think with that kind of power you'll be out of gear really quickly.
Yes, and its downright depressing on the street. Always shifting! Even with traction I dont think I can make it tot he traps in 4th!!!

Originally Posted by oscs View Post
Strategically placed boost leaks? that's awesome.
Been doing it that way for years! Most old school manual controllers has a relief port that had the same effect, just much less ghetto LOL
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Old 01-04-2015, 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by static low 92 View Post
Always looking to grow my knowledge. This is a great thread showing what potentials actually are.

Couple questions for the experienced. Being new the boosted world, I picked up a basic $300 76mm One3 for my initial build, with intentions of possibly upgrading later provided the chassis will get to a point that it will handle higher #'s. Truck is going to be street driven 90% of time, weekend warrior looking to endgame in the 10's with a focus on engine/turbo longevity.

Looking at several things. If a guy had $800-1000 to dump into a turbo and had these options, whats the benefits of them(without nitpicking ARs etc): One3 ball bearing 76mm(non-billet wheel). current turbo in this thread, or I've ran into turbonetics 78/76 ball bearing non-billet wheel for 900-100.

I guess my question is more along the lines of I assume having a ball bearing will equate to fast spool time and ultimately longer overall life? And billet wheel turbos are just more efficient?
Its a loaded question-what turbo is best all depends on your goals. But yes Ball bearing turbos can handle higher shaft speeds better, and provide better transient response on small motors, and in theory better longevity vs. a STD bearing unit. But you honestly wont see much of a spool difference because of the cubes.
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