don't be scared of pro comp/ebay head studs
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 194
Likes: 1
I'm looking to stud my heads and read somewhere on here that denmah DOES NOT use the little studs by the intake manifold. He doesn't touch those stock bolts. Anybody else just toss the little studs in the trash and leave those stock bolts when doing the studs one at a time?
I'm looking to stud my heads and read somewhere on here that denmah DOES NOT use the little studs by the intake manifold. He doesn't touch those stock bolts. Anybody else just toss the little studs in the trash and leave those stock bolts when doing the studs one at a time?
If you think for one second you're not distorting the bore of a block by torquing the the heads to even 65ft lbs. You're either crazy, or never measured a cylinder with anything but a set of calipers.
If cylinder distortion is none existent then why does every. Single. Engine. Builder. Use a torque plate while honing?
Hmmm......
If cylinder distortion is none existent then why does every. Single. Engine. Builder. Use a torque plate while honing?
Hmmm......
I'm gonna go out on a limb and guess that the folks hot honing cylinders and the guys buying these fasteners run in two different circles.
That said I'm looking for someone to donate an ARP stud to the cause. I'd like to have an actual yield strength test done at my friend's employer.
That said I'm looking for someone to donate an ARP stud to the cause. I'd like to have an actual yield strength test done at my friend's employer.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 560
Likes: 0
I'm gonna go out on a limb and guess that the folks hot honing cylinders and the guys buying these fasteners run in two different circles.
That said I'm looking for someone to donate an ARP stud to the cause. I'd like to have an actual yield strength test done at my friend's employer.
That said I'm looking for someone to donate an ARP stud to the cause. I'd like to have an actual yield strength test done at my friend's employer.
According to this test, The GM bolts are just as strong Pro Comp studs and ARP are better by quite a bit. https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ngth-test.html
Last edited by LLLosingit; Feb 2, 2015 at 05:33 PM.
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According to this test, The GM bolts are just as strong Pro Comp studs and ARP are better by quite a bit. https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ngth-test.html
you get what you pay for in this industry i feel like...
just like how id never run a $300 turbo, not stuck up but things are more expensive for a reason.
In this case.. ARP FTW
just like how id never run a $300 turbo, not stuck up but things are more expensive for a reason.
In this case.. ARP FTW
Was there ever any doubt that ARP was better?
A lot of cases though with these JY builds that are happening, like mine, I got my aluminum 5.3 for 450$ once I sold all the stuff off the motor I had no need for. Why would I pay over half that for head studs? I know just as well as most that the Pro Comps aren't top of the line, I was one of the few that even had one snap at 75lbs. Regardless though, I was able to back it out and no damage was done. Tons of people have used them with success. You get what you pay for. Seventy dollar studs for a 500$ motor makes sense.
A lot of cases though with these JY builds that are happening, like mine, I got my aluminum 5.3 for 450$ once I sold all the stuff off the motor I had no need for. Why would I pay over half that for head studs? I know just as well as most that the Pro Comps aren't top of the line, I was one of the few that even had one snap at 75lbs. Regardless though, I was able to back it out and no damage was done. Tons of people have used them with success. You get what you pay for. Seventy dollar studs for a 500$ motor makes sense.
According to this test, The GM bolts are just as strong Pro Comp studs and ARP are better by quite a bit. https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ngth-test.html
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
From: North Dakota
Do you guys re-torque your ebay head studs after a few heat cycles? I ran my car last summer N/A and was curious if I should or shouldn't re-torque my ebay head studs before adding my turbo?
Thanks!
Thanks!
Generic drugs are supposed to be made from the same compounds so they should be the same no matter what name is on the bottle. You can't use that line of thinking with auto parts because although they may look exactly the same the materials they are made from are not the same.
They just have to elicit the same effect in the body, and do not need to contain identical compounds.
So if the e-bay studs do the job for the majority of people (this guys seem to be?) even if not made to the same level as the ARPs, why not run them?
Aside from a few install related issues how many documented head gasket issues are out there that we believe are from using china studs?
Also I agree with the people saying about what you have into the setup. My stock 6.0 has china studs. My built 408 has ARP. But honestly I have done a handful of sets of both and have never had any issues.
Its important that we don't ignore real world results under operating conditions.
Also I agree with the people saying about what you have into the setup. My stock 6.0 has china studs. My built 408 has ARP. But honestly I have done a handful of sets of both and have never had any issues.
Its important that we don't ignore real world results under operating conditions.
not a hard calc to look at.
I believe tensile area is around .0997in2.
If the bolts were 190ksi, that's 18,943 pound force of tension per bolt. Assuming you are lubing everything- that is around 136ft-lbs of pretension. Typically you only want to go up to 1/2 this value, so you guys torquing into the 70-ftlb range are safe.
But, if you are snapping at 75 ft-lbs, that is a material strength of around 104ksi, not 190ksi, and you are right at max tension- meaning your service load(from cylinder pressure) would need to be real small.
Basically I think the issue is the material they are using fluctuates heavily from stud to stud. By the time you get a good quality department, you'd have to charge ARP prices.
I believe tensile area is around .0997in2.
If the bolts were 190ksi, that's 18,943 pound force of tension per bolt. Assuming you are lubing everything- that is around 136ft-lbs of pretension. Typically you only want to go up to 1/2 this value, so you guys torquing into the 70-ftlb range are safe.
But, if you are snapping at 75 ft-lbs, that is a material strength of around 104ksi, not 190ksi, and you are right at max tension- meaning your service load(from cylinder pressure) would need to be real small.
Basically I think the issue is the material they are using fluctuates heavily from stud to stud. By the time you get a good quality department, you'd have to charge ARP prices.