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-   -   Different requirements of oil between engine builder, turbo, or camshaft? (https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-induction/1755084-different-requirements-oil-between-engine-builder-turbo-camshaft.html)

RCSBTURBO4WD 10-30-2014 10:06 AM

Different requirements of oil between engine builder, turbo, or camshaft?
 
Who should I listen to?
My engine builder told me to use Valvoline conventional 20w-50
Isky cams says: low viscosity Brad penn grade 1, pennzoil GTP, and valvoline racing oil (especifies, do not confuse with conventional valvoline)
And turbo builder says, rotella 10w-40

Which oil should I go with??

Thanks guys!

cptinjak 10-30-2014 10:24 AM

Engine builder probably has the most to lose if something were to go wrong. If you trust him to build the engine, trust his oil recommendation.

Jack

LivernoisMotorsports 10-30-2014 10:28 AM

Your not breaking in an engine with the power adder on it are you? You must be very sure you run the correct additive package for the camshaft and rings to assist in the break in process.

LASTLS1 10-30-2014 11:04 AM

I always run amsoil 20-50 , never had a oil related problem. I run my car harder than most. I know everyone has a opinion on oil,,,,,,,,,

cptinjak 10-30-2014 11:52 AM


Originally Posted by LivernoisMotorsports (Post 18502238)
Your not breaking in an engine with the power adder on it are you? You must be very sure you run the correct additive package for the camshaft and rings to assist in the break in process.

This^

Jack

RCSBTURBO4WD 10-30-2014 12:52 PM

Camshaft company recommended me a EOS (Engine Oil Suplemment) from GM Dealer, I guess my best bet is to follow the engine builder advice and use that suplemment??

cptinjak 10-30-2014 02:26 PM

If it's a roller just throw it in and dont worry about it.

Jack

LivernoisMotorsports 10-31-2014 08:13 AM

The roller camshafts don't need the additive package as there is no break in in most cases. It will assist in the ring break in process. Use what the vendor/builder recommended. We use the Brad Penn break in oils and go over to Royal purple once we are satisfied break in is all set.

oscs 10-31-2014 08:46 AM

:lol: @ expensive break in oil.. It's a hydraulic roller.. Properly grease your pushrods and you'll be fine. Go find yourself the cheapest Walmart 15W40 you can find and drive it like you stole it. Change your oil after 500 miles and go with a decent 20w50. My .02

Forcefed86 10-31-2014 01:13 PM

Would depend how much bearing clearance the engine builder went with for weight. Any quality oil should be fine otherwise IMO.

CALL911 10-31-2014 01:45 PM

My engine was built with looser clearances, so 20W50 is what was recommended by my builder, and that's what I have ran. If your builder is recommending the same, I would go with what he says.

FWIW, FI cars do better with a higher zinc concentration in the oil. The least expensive high zinc concentration oil happens to be Valvoline VR1 racing 20W50 (which is what I run).

toytech93 10-31-2014 02:49 PM

Does turbo heat play any role picking the oil viscosity ?

CALL911 10-31-2014 03:26 PM


Originally Posted by toytech93 (Post 18504187)
Does turbo heat play any role picking the oil viscosity ?

I don't know the answer to your question, but I wouldn't think it would play as big a role as the clearances in the motor would. It's not like running a thicker oil will lead you to over temping the motor even if a lighter weight oil is better for hotter temps.

toytech93 10-31-2014 05:07 PM


Originally Posted by CALL911 (Post 18504236)
even if a lighter weight oil is better for hotter temps.

Well, I was thinking that switching to VR1 20w50 would help oil survive living in a turbo setup better compared to say 5w30 of the same VR1 brand. But I guessing! LoL

What is really better suited for turbo use ? Or does that really matter, maybe I'm over thinking it. Maybe I'd feel better about it with a oil cooler!


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