66 Chevelle Turbo 6.0 Sloppy Style
11-09-2014, 11:12 PM
#1
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
66 Chevelle Turbo 6.0 Sloppy Style Hey everyone I have been lurking on this site for a loooooooong time. I got the itch to do a turbo build a couple of years ago but never had the funds to get it done...until now. Im a full time college student and i work part time, so it has taken me a while but i think i have saved up enough to finally get the swap done. Im gonna really need help when it comes to this stuff, so feedback is what i need.
The car:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psf801e3d0.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psa56c8608.jpg
1966 Chevrolet chevelle i got as my first car! My dad bought it for me when i was 15 and it was a father son project. Mechanically the car was decent, but we have tweaked it quite a bit. 396 with ported polished heads, edelbrock intake, big cam, long tube headers, stuff like that. Its backed up by a muncie 4 speed and we switched from the z bar linkage to a hydraulic set up. Super fast car as a first car in high school, but you can just never have enough power right? Plus i get about 5 miles per gallon, so theres that too.
New setup:
So i left home for a few years and a buddy owns a wrecking yard and was about to crush a rolled over 2002 chevy 2500 truck. Before he crushed it he let me pull out the 6.0 and the harness for free, but the trans was cracked so i wasn't able to use it. Fast forward a few years and i finally tear the thing down to the bottom end and make sure everything looks good. Heres how i plan on the new setup, the engine is all buttoned up, i mostly need input on the turbo, fuel system etc.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps55592b85.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...46db51.jpg2002
lq4 with ? miles on the clock
Cleaned up heads with new pac springs installed
New hydraulic roller lifters (i hear they like to fail)
New timing chain
Comp cams cam grind 281LR HR-13
.617 intake 624 exhaust 231 239 at .50 113 LSA (any input on this?)
MLS head gaskets
ARP head bolts
Melling high volume oil pump
Ebay rails
Deka 80 lb injectors
Stock trunk intake
Stock f body pan with pickup
Junkyard 4l80 with trans go kit
I have dirt dingo slider adapters and i will have to fab up my own trans mount. This is where things get interesting though. So the car is back home is southern California but im out at school in utah, so i need to get everything ordered before i head back home for christmas break. Im taking a 10 day trip back home, and i plan for an all out thrash. I know i realistically wont have a working driving turbo car in ten days, but i want to get it as close as possible before i head back to school and put it away for another 3 months.
Turbo kit:
I plan on using the sloppy special kit from vs racing, at least the cold side wastegate and bov. Still undecided on turbo, iv been going back and forth for months, keep in mind im on a tight budget. Im leaning towards the 80mm gt 45 on however many pounds of boost it takes to get me to 600whp. Iv thought alot about the BW S475 but the thing is massive and heavy and i wouldnt want the T6 version and i cant really afford the T4 setup. Iv also seen forcefed86 talk about the APT BW which might be an option? I dont know someone just make up my mind for me and ill order it. Hot side will be truck manis flipped and 2.5 v bands welded on. Run that into a 2 or 2.25 reducer (what would you recommend for quick spool?) and then make my own crossover.
Fuel:
Iv gone back and forth on sumping the stock tank, which is ugly as hell, and then running external bosch 044 pump. Or i can cough up the cash and buy a tanks inc tank and their internal pump setup and run that, once again, suggestions help. Run a -6 line up to the rails using a boost referenced FPR, and then is it possible to use the stock feed as a return? That would make things simple.
Tuning crap:
Im most likely gonna bite the bullet and purchase HP tuners and try to go very very very slow and tune it myself. Iv read everything that denmah has ever posted on the subject, so i figure i will download one of his base tunes and go from there. My next question is whats the difference between HPT and HPT pro? What would you recommend?The harness i got with the engine is trashed, all the connectors we basically busted, i tried to rework the harness according to the lt1 swap website, but realized the harness was too far gone. Going to go with a PSI harness and keep things simple.
Thats about all i can think of for now, but like i said i want to try and get everything ordered and sitting in the garage for when i come home for the 10 day thrash. Thanks for looking!
The car:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psf801e3d0.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...psa56c8608.jpg
1966 Chevrolet chevelle i got as my first car! My dad bought it for me when i was 15 and it was a father son project. Mechanically the car was decent, but we have tweaked it quite a bit. 396 with ported polished heads, edelbrock intake, big cam, long tube headers, stuff like that. Its backed up by a muncie 4 speed and we switched from the z bar linkage to a hydraulic set up. Super fast car as a first car in high school, but you can just never have enough power right? Plus i get about 5 miles per gallon, so theres that too.
New setup:
So i left home for a few years and a buddy owns a wrecking yard and was about to crush a rolled over 2002 chevy 2500 truck. Before he crushed it he let me pull out the 6.0 and the harness for free, but the trans was cracked so i wasn't able to use it. Fast forward a few years and i finally tear the thing down to the bottom end and make sure everything looks good. Heres how i plan on the new setup, the engine is all buttoned up, i mostly need input on the turbo, fuel system etc.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps55592b85.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...46db51.jpg2002
lq4 with ? miles on the clock
Cleaned up heads with new pac springs installed
New hydraulic roller lifters (i hear they like to fail)
New timing chain
Comp cams cam grind 281LR HR-13
.617 intake 624 exhaust 231 239 at .50 113 LSA (any input on this?)
MLS head gaskets
ARP head bolts
Melling high volume oil pump
Ebay rails
Deka 80 lb injectors
Stock trunk intake
Stock f body pan with pickup
Junkyard 4l80 with trans go kit
I have dirt dingo slider adapters and i will have to fab up my own trans mount. This is where things get interesting though. So the car is back home is southern California but im out at school in utah, so i need to get everything ordered before i head back home for christmas break. Im taking a 10 day trip back home, and i plan for an all out thrash. I know i realistically wont have a working driving turbo car in ten days, but i want to get it as close as possible before i head back to school and put it away for another 3 months.
Turbo kit:
I plan on using the sloppy special kit from vs racing, at least the cold side wastegate and bov. Still undecided on turbo, iv been going back and forth for months, keep in mind im on a tight budget. Im leaning towards the 80mm gt 45 on however many pounds of boost it takes to get me to 600whp. Iv thought alot about the BW S475 but the thing is massive and heavy and i wouldnt want the T6 version and i cant really afford the T4 setup. Iv also seen forcefed86 talk about the APT BW which might be an option? I dont know someone just make up my mind for me and ill order it. Hot side will be truck manis flipped and 2.5 v bands welded on. Run that into a 2 or 2.25 reducer (what would you recommend for quick spool?) and then make my own crossover.
Fuel:
Iv gone back and forth on sumping the stock tank, which is ugly as hell, and then running external bosch 044 pump. Or i can cough up the cash and buy a tanks inc tank and their internal pump setup and run that, once again, suggestions help. Run a -6 line up to the rails using a boost referenced FPR, and then is it possible to use the stock feed as a return? That would make things simple.
Tuning crap:
Im most likely gonna bite the bullet and purchase HP tuners and try to go very very very slow and tune it myself. Iv read everything that denmah has ever posted on the subject, so i figure i will download one of his base tunes and go from there. My next question is whats the difference between HPT and HPT pro? What would you recommend?The harness i got with the engine is trashed, all the connectors we basically busted, i tried to rework the harness according to the lt1 swap website, but realized the harness was too far gone. Going to go with a PSI harness and keep things simple.
Thats about all i can think of for now, but like i said i want to try and get everything ordered and sitting in the garage for when i come home for the 10 day thrash. Thanks for looking!
11-11-2014, 08:42 AM
#6
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
yeah i bought the cam on an impulse buy a while back after reading an article haha. I know i probably should have done a bit more research.
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/eng...urbo-kit-test/
Im gonna be running pump gas, i dont have any e85 available close to my house. Its going to be a 99% street car, but im sure i will want to hit the track eventually. Power goals are 600 to the wheels, and quick spool is a priority. Thanks for the help denmah. i know really any turbo can get me there, i just would like to hear some personal opinions
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/eng...urbo-kit-test/
Im gonna be running pump gas, i dont have any e85 available close to my house. Its going to be a 99% street car, but im sure i will want to hit the track eventually. Power goals are 600 to the wheels, and quick spool is a priority. Thanks for the help denmah. i know really any turbo can get me there, i just would like to hear some personal opinions
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11-15-2014, 12:53 PM
#9
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
So im looking at buying HP tuners, what does everyone recommend, the pro or standard? Is it worth the extra money to be able to log extra sensors like afr?
11-17-2014, 02:50 PM
#12
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
Well i got some stuff ordered, man its nuts how fast money can be spent. I ordered a harness psi, in tank baffle and pump assembly from tanks inc, and a bunch of fittings and other miscellaneous stuff from summit for the fuel system. I also got a boost referenced regulator from race parts solutions, and today im getting some AN braided hose off of ebay
Im using a 4l80. I was told to use microsquirt if i wasnt using an electronic trans, and to use the stock pcm if i was just to make everything simpler. Are the tuning features on MS easier to use?
Im using a 4l80. I was told to use microsquirt if i wasnt using an electronic trans, and to use the stock pcm if i was just to make everything simpler. Are the tuning features on MS easier to use?
11-17-2014, 04:53 PM
#15
Well i got some stuff ordered, man its nuts how fast money can be spent. I ordered a harness psi, in tank baffle and pump assembly from tanks inc, and a bunch of fittings and other miscellaneous stuff from summit for the fuel system. I also got a boost referenced regulator from race parts solutions, and today im getting some AN braided hose off of ebay
Im using a 4l80. I was told to use microsquirt if i wasnt using an electronic trans, and to use the stock pcm if i was just to make everything simpler. Are the tuning features on MS easier to use?
Im using a 4l80. I was told to use microsquirt if i wasnt using an electronic trans, and to use the stock pcm if i was just to make everything simpler. Are the tuning features on MS easier to use?
But for HPtuner Pro you are going to pay around $650 or so. A custom harness will probably be around $500 and then another $100ish for an ECU. So you end up with around $1250 going that route. You can do it cheaper by getting a factory harness and stripping it. If you are uncomfortable with that, getting one is $100-150 and then another $200ish to have it professionally done.
Another option is making the 4l80e manually shifted. That is around $200 and then you could use microsquirt, Holley HP or the "Gold Box" megasquirt 3 based controller.
While using hptuners is fine, in many respects I believe the stand alone units are easier to tune and easier to learn. There certainly is going to be a learning curve no matter what platform you go with, some are just a little steeper than others. There are also features with a stand alone like microsquirt, holley and others that are just not there with the factory computer. Anti-lag, launch control, traction control, boost control, etc.
11-19-2014, 09:45 PM
#16
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
Here are my thoughts. If you only have one car to tune, the cost of Hptuners, a custom harness and an ECU is going to be the same or more than some options out there. You could get a EZ-TCU to control the transmission of US-Shift I think it is called and the microsquirt with harness for like $1200. This seems like a lot.
But for HPtuner Pro you are going to pay around $650 or so. A custom harness will probably be around $500 and then another $100ish for an ECU. So you end up with around $1250 going that route. You can do it cheaper by getting a factory harness and stripping it. If you are uncomfortable with that, getting one is $100-150 and then another $200ish to have it professionally done.
Another option is making the 4l80e manually shifted. That is around $200 and then you could use microsquirt, Holley HP or the "Gold Box" megasquirt 3 based controller.
While using hptuners is fine, in many respects I believe the stand alone units are easier to tune and easier to learn. There certainly is going to be a learning curve no matter what platform you go with, some are just a little steeper than others. There are also features with a stand alone like microsquirt, holley and others that are just not there with the factory computer. Anti-lag, launch control, traction control, boost control, etc.
But for HPtuner Pro you are going to pay around $650 or so. A custom harness will probably be around $500 and then another $100ish for an ECU. So you end up with around $1250 going that route. You can do it cheaper by getting a factory harness and stripping it. If you are uncomfortable with that, getting one is $100-150 and then another $200ish to have it professionally done.
Another option is making the 4l80e manually shifted. That is around $200 and then you could use microsquirt, Holley HP or the "Gold Box" megasquirt 3 based controller.
While using hptuners is fine, in many respects I believe the stand alone units are easier to tune and easier to learn. There certainly is going to be a learning curve no matter what platform you go with, some are just a little steeper than others. There are also features with a stand alone like microsquirt, holley and others that are just not there with the factory computer. Anti-lag, launch control, traction control, boost control, etc.
11-21-2014, 06:09 AM
#17
The 80E is a tight fit, sometimes you can bump the floor, sometimes you need to cut it and add a section to get the right drive angle
Since the 64-67 (later 67's had the frame changed for a turbo 400) didn't have a 400, the raised area where the X mem. sits is short
I cut out a section and raise it for the X mem. to sit on, or you can mod the X mem. to pick up ex. holes
A turbo 350/400 is a good way to pick up speed on the install, and change it later to an 80E
Since the 64-67 (later 67's had the frame changed for a turbo 400) didn't have a 400, the raised area where the X mem. sits is short
I cut out a section and raise it for the X mem. to sit on, or you can mod the X mem. to pick up ex. holes
A turbo 350/400 is a good way to pick up speed on the install, and change it later to an 80E
11-21-2014, 10:50 AM
#19
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
Thanks! Another newb question. So i plan on running meth down the road, and im wondering about my iat sensor placement. I was just gonna enlarge the hole right behind the throttle body on the top of the manifold and jb weld the sensor into there like how denmah says to do it, but if i do that and add a meth nozzle later down the road thats before the throttle body, will that throw off my iat sensor temps? I guess the question is where should i put my iat sensor. Before the meth nozzle in the future or is it bad the put it after? Thanks!
11-23-2014, 09:50 PM
#20
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
Thanks! Another newb question. So i plan on running meth down the road, and im wondering about my iat sensor placement. I was just gonna enlarge the hole right behind the throttle body on the top of the manifold and jb weld the sensor into there like how denmah says to do it, but if i do that and add a meth nozzle later down the road thats before the throttle body, will that throw off my iat sensor temps? I guess the question is where should i put my iat sensor. Before the meth nozzle in the future or is it bad the put it after? Thanks![/QUOTE]
Anyone????
Also, just got hp tuners in the mail. Holy crap.... i have alot of forum reading to do
Anyone????
Also, just got hp tuners in the mail. Holy crap.... i have alot of forum reading to do
