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Hey everyone, I'm throwing a Hail Mary here and hoping someone has some suggestions. I recently installed a Huron Speed V1 AC Retaining Turbo Hotside and while I love the fitment it requires removal (not lowering) of the sway bar. Has anybody else ran one of these hotsides and been able to fab up a sway bar because I really really really want to keep my sway bar lol! I've looked at speedway but didn't see anything that looked like it would work and I don't know what the rules are for modifying the factory sway bar. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
you can mount it if ur willing to fab up some simple mounts, i have the same kit and i had to drop it about 5-6 inchs, used 1in sch 80 pipe (but it at lowes for like $5 fo 18in) and ran longer bolts through it and welded the pipes to the stock bracket vertically to run bolts threw and then welded flat bar to the two pipes so the bushing had something to sit on, then you have to take your sway bar links and cut the spacer down and get shorter bolts so the sway bar sits as level as possible, im running a 35mm hollow strano bar and this works, just make sure you get it right cause theres a fine line of two low and it will scrap rim while turning, its gunna look really low compared to everything else but i havnt had speed bump issues or anything.
o other things, i dont have a Vband clamp on the pass side cause my alingment sucked so i just welded the vband, also at full suspension drop (front end in the air) my tierods do it the sway bar but it never happens while on road/with weight on it
you can mount it if ur willing to fab up some simple mounts, i have the same kit and i had to drop it about 5-6 inchs, used 1in sch 80 pipe (but it at lowes for like $5 fo 18in) and ran longer bolts through it and welded the pipes to the stock bracket vertically to run bolts threw and then welded flat bar to the two pipes so the bushing had something to sit on, then you have to take your sway bar links and cut the spacer down and get shorter bolts so the sway bar sits as level as possible, im running a 35mm hollow strano bar and this works, just make sure you get it right cause theres a fine line of two low and it will scrap rim while turning, its gunna look really low compared to everything else but i havnt had speed bump issues or anything.
That's the best news ever and you just made my morning! Okay so I currently have Strano's/Bilstiens upfront so I'm hoping my ride height won't be too low already. Is there anyway you could find it in your heart to take a few pictures and send them my way? 206-510-3147 I was pretty much looking at doing just what you described but was unsure about how low it sits of course. I know there are at least three other guys whos day you just made also lol. I've also got a Baer bumpsteer kit I've been sitting on that'll lower the tie rods about 2 inches, would that be beneficial in making more room? Thank you so much for the reply Toxic, this was reaaaally bugging me lol.
when i go on lunch i can send you some pics np! if you can upload them on here that be great too, i can but it take me awhile to upload to photobucket and etc etc, well tie road being lower would help clear the sway bar more yeah, ill take pics of mounts, location and what ever else i can and send them your way!
i have strano springs and konis, all the way around, i road race my car so the sway bar was very important so i did what i could to make it work and it ended up not being bad, im sure if yall work on it a little more you could deff improve it some more.
i did have the frame mounts slid forward roughly an inch on the flat bar cause i oginally used 1in bolts for it, doing so though brought the sway bar to far forward and rubbed rim bad, when i went back and looked everything over i was able to drill holes and use 6in (or what ever long i needed) bolts to go all the way through piping into original nuts on original mounts.
strength wise this is still pretty strong, the only time this made contact with ground was a terrible dip out in the country when a bunch of friends and i went cruising around, and to give you an idea how bad it was 2 slammed miatas hit it before me, one blew a shock he said and other bottomed out, front middle and back and spun out, i was slowing down cause of all this happening in ront of me and i still hit hard enough that it hit and all it did was bend the bolts a tad, and scraped the bushing clams to the frame really good, 2 new bolts and back to working np
ill try to get pics with measurements next to them also, down side the car is 1-2ft in the air cause i had to drop the tranny but i can measure my oil pan to ground then the bottom most area of bracket to ground so you all have an idea
Thank you Toxic! Photos received and I'll be sure to share them on this post and the other post covering the turbo build. I can't thank you enough and I love this forum lol!
I understand man, I ran without my front swaybar for a year or two, but was always forcing myself to be really cautious on curvy roads or hard corners. It may not be as light as possible with it on, but the peace of mind having it there again allows me to enjoy ALL roads now lol.
I understand man, I ran without my front swaybar for a year or two, but was always forcing myself to be really cautious on curvy roads or hard corners. It may not be as light as possible with it on, but the peace of mind having it there again allows me to enjoy ALL roads now lol.
That's where I'm at, I bought Strano's/Bilstiens and 275 Nitto NT05's for up front and 315' for the rear so it was a very decent handling rig but to then find out I can't keep the sway bar I'm thinking what the hell was the point! But this makes it all worth while now.
I’m having the same problem only with a spohn front sway and the new Huron hot side that’s supposed to fit with the stock sway bar. Not sure if the spohn is much different or not and of course I threw my old sway bar out. I know this is an old thread but toxic did you ever get those pics of what you fabbed up?
I actually got the factory sway bar to work, I built some stanchions from steel plate and thick walled tubing that were about 5-6" long that extended the sway bar mounting points off the frame.
The sway bar now sits below the hot side like in the pictures and works fine, been that way for three years now without issue.
04-28-2015, 07:29 PM
98-02 F-Body Turbo Sway Bar HELP! 
