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Incresaing the pressure required to bypass oil filter?
Is there anyway to increase the pressure required to activate the oil filter bypass? I run higher than stock pressures and I "T" off the oil filter housing port to feed my turbo. I run JY engines pretty hard so I frequently get small amount of metal when I split and check my filters.
When I took the turbo apart I'm finding metal in the bearing section as well. I was under the impression this was filtered oil, but apparently it's not "filtered" enough. Also wondering how much metal I'm bypassing into my main/rod bearings as well.
Block the bypass and run a much larger/stronger oil filter. Lots of guys run non-bypassing oil filter sandwhich adapters and a longer filter with a strong case to withstand the oil pressure of a cold start.
Based on the LS oil flow schematic http://s112.photobucket.com/user/cal...ation.jpg.html, the factory block off drilled for oil feed does not go through filter first. Need separate filter or tap into oil pressure switch port.
Based on the LS oil flow schematic http://s112.photobucket.com/user/cal...ation.jpg.html, the factory block off drilled for oil feed does not go through filter first. Need separate filter or tap into oil pressure switch port.
I was under the impression the bypass valve was built into the oil pan/filter housing? (haven't even looked) LIke the old school SBC stuff...
It looks like this area could be filtered looking at that diagram, no? Looks like the rear galley plug/barbell slides in past that point meaning oil from this location was post filter.
Last edited by Forcefed86; 06-19-2015 at 11:07 AM.
Pull the block-off cover and see if there is a divider to use only rear port. In all the factory covers I've pulled, there is no divider which means you'll likely get unfiltered oil due to the pressure differential across the filter.
Side note - still not sure how the factory oil cooler adapter cools oil and returns it to be filtered or routes it post filter and then back to the main galley to lifters, cam, and crank.
Pull the block-off cover and see if there is a divider to use only rear port. In all the factory covers I've pulled, there is no divider which means you'll likely get unfiltered oil due to the pressure differential across the filter.
Side note - still not sure how the factory oil cooler adapter cools oil and returns it to be filtered or routes it post filter and then back to the main galley to lifters, cam, and crank.
Not sure where you got your info. But the Fbody LS1 pan had a built in bypass AND the port above the oil filter is filtered.
In this picture the port you can see through on the LH side of the picture is the first port fed by the oil pump. You can also see the port above the filter that I'm using for the turbo feed is sealed off from this and is only fed filtered oil. Unless the bypass is activated.
My question is how could I remove or add pressure to the bypass? It doesn't look removeable. I'm assuming it's pressed in and I don't see a ways to take it out.
Really though the way that is laid out the bypass should only crack when the pressure delta across the filter is great enough? No?
This is if the backside of the valve is common to the post filter circuit which it looks like it is. If it dumped to the pan it would open based on like pressure alone
Really though the way that is laid out the bypass should only crack when the pressure delta across the filter is great enough? No?
This is if the backside of the valve is common to the post filter circuit which it looks like it is. If it dumped to the pan it would open based on like pressure alone
Yea wondering if they get weak with age, or if the elevated pressure causes it to open. When i took my turbo apart I noticed quite a few flakes plastered to the thrust bearing. Looking for a work around so that doesn't happen to the new turbo.
A "work around" might be an in-line filter on the turbo feed.
Reed @ WORK turbo was working on such a part. This was months ago, and should be available, now.
A "work around" might be an in-line filter on the turbo feed.
Reed @ WORK turbo was working on such a part. This was months ago, and should be available, now.
Rob @ FP made these years ago for the DSM community.
Man those things are pricey for a little inline filter. You also have to worry about little filters like that getting clogged and starving the turbo of oil. I'd think any 100 microns SS inline fuel filter would work.
The turbo buick guys have been running the "turbo saver" filters for for 25+ years. Adds a QT of oil to the system too. Not a bad idea but space is a concern. Just didnt' want the extra hassle of inline filters and what not when I have a filtered supply. I'd like to find an easy way to just block the bypass.
Heres a pic of an old buick "turbo saver" setup I had laying around. I threw it on my 280z temporarily since they tapped the FWD oil galley for the supply to the turbo. I'd go that route before blowing $70 on a baby inline filter.
You'll go to all that work to do something with the bypass in the oil pan.....and the filter still has an internal bypass anyway.
The bypass will only open when there is a large pressure difference between the pre/post filter sides anyway
If you need more filtration, fit a larger filter. But most OEM cars these days are running incredibly small filters, so there really must not be a huge need for more.
And if you really need a filter for the turbo, you could just use one of the tiny fuel filters a lot of people wrongly use pre-fuel pump.
eg this sort of thing, although this is a unit intended for a turbo pre-filter
You'll go to all that work to do something with the bypass in the oil pan.....and the filter still has an internal bypass anyway.
The bypass will only open when there is a large pressure difference between the pre/post filter sides anyway
If you need more filtration, fit a larger filter. But most OEM cars these days are running incredibly small filters, so there really must not be a huge need for more.
And if you really need a filter for the turbo, you could just use one of the tiny fuel filters a lot of people wrongly use pre-fuel pump.
eg this sort of thing, although this is a unit intended for a turbo pre-filter
I want to add to this since their seems to be some confusion. The original OEM pans that came on our cars had a built in pressure relief valve. However, the newer style replacements (GM) no longer use original part number filters and the pans have NO bypass in them, they rely on the filter bypass only. I didn't want to change from oem filter numbers so i removed the threaded insert on my new GM pan and installed the original that came with the car (so i could keep using the filters i already had). I found this out the hard way when a filter clogged. My new pan had no bypass, and apparently the old style filters bypass wasn't sufficient on its own = no oil pressure to engine from clogged filter.
I know it wasn't the original question, but I use WIX 51552XP. They are taller than the normal LS1 style filters, have an anti drainback valve and do NOT have a bypass. They have been working great for me so far and have handled 108psi. (that's what I had for pressure before I switched viscosity)
Type: Spin-On
Color: Black
Material: Synthetic Wire Backed
Diameter (IN): 2.921 Inch
Height (IN): 4.526 Inch
Micron Rating: OEM
Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes
Filter Bypass Relief Valve: No
Gasket Material: Rubber
I want to add to this since their seems to be some confusion. The original OEM pans that came on our cars had a built in pressure relief valve. However, the newer style replacements (GM) no longer use original part number filters and the pans have NO bypass in them, they rely on the filter bypass only. I didn't want to change from oem filter numbers so i removed the threaded insert on my new GM pan and installed the original that came with the car (so i could keep using the filters i already had). I found this out the hard way when a filter clogged. My new pan had no bypass, and apparently the old style filters bypass wasn't sufficient on its own = no oil pressure to engine from clogged filter.
i have a thread on here about this, I always plug my bypass and run a filter without one. Little did I know that assembly lube plugs oil filters up very quickly. Literally 10 minutes of run time completely dropped an engine from 60# to 0, swapped filters and it’s been getting best to **** for two years now.
So think about that. All these guys with there super expensive new engines, few minutes into the first fire up it’s plugged the filter and is bypassing directly unfiltered oil until the first oil change.
06-19-2015, 07:55 AM
Incresaing the pressure required to bypass oil filter? 
