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So back in February I saw the Group Purchase event Huron Speed was advertising and had to go for it. Based on a limited budget, I decided to throw the kit on my stock ls1... My car is a 2001 SS, M6 Stage 3 clutch, ls6 intake, and stock rear with 80k miles. My goals are 500-600 HP range on low boost to help with the longevity of the engine. I am by no means an expert on turbos or engines for that matter, just some general knowledge most of which was picked up from this site. Jon at Huron Speed has been a big help throughout the process so far and lives up to the customer service advertised. Quick and clear responses to emails any time! Anyways here are some pictures so far. I still need to purchase the fuel pump, injectors, and have it tuned. There is a local shop nearby that specialize in LS motors, CincySpeed, here in Ohio. First thread so bear with me...
I just finished my 87K 02 SS with a Huron Speed V1 AC Hotside and TC78. Cnc ported 317 heads and custom turbo cam were installed though. I'm pushing 6 lbs. right now, don't know how much power it makes but through the T56 its a fricken brute lol. You'll be happy with it for sure. Are you looking at supporting parts too? Fuel pump, injectors etc?
I just finished my 87K 02 SS with a Huron Speed V1 AC Hotside and TC78. Cnc ported 317 heads and custom turbo cam were installed though. I'm pushing 6 lbs. right now, don't know how much power it makes but through the T56 its a fricken brute lol. You'll be happy with it for sure. Are you looking at supporting parts too? Fuel pump, injectors etc?
Nice! Can't wait to get mine done, it's been down basically all summer. I Have street tires so I am hoping I can be easy on the driveline and rear end until next year when I'll probably put a rear end in. I Still need to order injectors, fuel pump, and a catch can system. #80 injectors, been debating whether or not a single 255 will be enough. Im afraid once I beef up more stuff I'll want more boost and then need a larger fuel pump. My tuner said opt for a 430 pump but fitting it into the stock housing sounded a little tough.
Are you running of the gate spring then? On your TC78, where did you get the vacuum fitting for the compressor housing? I need to pick one up. Also, what pump are you running? Thanks man!
Nice! Can't wait to get mine done, it's been down basically all summer. I Have street tires so I am hoping I can be easy on the driveline and rear end until next year when I'll probably put a rear end in. I Still need to order injectors, fuel pump, and a catch can system. #80 injectors, been debating whether or not a single 255 will be enough. Im afraid once I beef up more stuff I'll want more boost and then need a larger fuel pump. My tuner said opt for a 430 pump but fitting it into the stock housing sounded a little tough.
Are you running of the gate spring then? On your TC78, where did you get the vacuum fitting for the compressor housing? I need to pick one up. Also, what pump are you running? Thanks man!
I'm on street tires too, NT05's and traction is definitely sketchy in 2nd gear lol. I'm using a Mighty Mouse PCV Can and its' great, I still have PCV function and it doesn't pressurize the crank case. For fuel I'm using 60# Siemens injectors and a Walbro 255 w/ a Racetronix Hotwire Kit. Pat G is tuning it and his feedback was my fuel pump will be right on the ragged edge of supply at 600rwhp so I pulled the 10lb spring and put a 6lb spring in the W/G until I can upgrade the pump. Right now I'm just running off the W/G spring but I'll upgrade to a SC1 or eBoost sooner or later. I referenced boost for my W/G and BOV by teeing into the brake booster because I wanted to see the 6lbs at the intake, not the compressor outlet as you'll lose some boost through the IC and what not.
Go twin pumps, 60's or 80's which ever your tuner recommends, one of the versions of MM Cans depending on what you want for PCV function and you'll be set to turn the wick up in the future without having to tear back into the car. I'll tell you know, I had a 70 Camaro w/ a 550hp 454 and right now this bitch pulls harder than that car ever did. It comes on hard and just doesn't stop pulling.
Start budgeting to go more with your Huron Kit. I started out with a 7475 on a stock LS1 and in less than 1 year I had a Thompson 5.3 Might Mouse, PT88, and 20 psi.
I'll be following along. Definitely keep up with the pictures. Any pics of where you tapped into the oil pan?
It might be easier to upload the pics to photo bucket and you can copy and paste the image links in your thread and they will be much bigger without having to click the attachment. Just a suggestion
I'll be following along. Definitely keep up with the pictures. Any pics of where you tapped into the oil pan?
It might be easier to upload the pics to photo bucket and you can copy and paste the image links in your thread and they will be much bigger without having to click the attachment. Just a suggestion
Awesome! I was wondering how to change the picture sizes from thumbnails. I'll get some pictures of the oil pan tap and drain. I'm nervous about the downward slant anyway as it is very subtle...
Start budgeting to go more with your Huron Kit. I started out with a 7475 on a stock LS1 and in less than 1 year I had a Thompson 5.3 Might Mouse, PT88, and 20 psi.
Haha well if need be I can pull some overtime over the winter. The wife thinks the turbo kit was it and now I'll be happy...
I'm on street tires too, NT05's and traction is definitely sketchy in 2nd gear lol. I'm using a Mighty Mouse PCV Can and its' great, I still have PCV function and it doesn't pressurize the crank case. For fuel I'm using 60# Siemens injectors and a Walbro 255 w/ a Racetronix Hotwire Kit. Pat G is tuning it and his feedback was my fuel pump will be right on the ragged edge of supply at 600rwhp so I pulled the 10lb spring and put a 6lb spring in the W/G until I can upgrade the pump. Right now I'm just running off the W/G spring but I'll upgrade to a SC1 or eBoost sooner or later. I referenced boost for my W/G and BOV by teeing into the brake booster because I wanted to see the 6lbs at the intake, not the compressor outlet as you'll lose some boost through the IC and what not.
Go twin pumps, 60's or 80's which ever your tuner recommends, one of the versions of MM Cans depending on what you want for PCV function and you'll be set to turn the wick up in the future without having to tear back into the car. I'll tell you know, I had a 70 Camaro w/ a 550hp 454 and right now this bitch pulls harder than that car ever did. It comes on hard and just doesn't stop pulling.
Haha nice! I can't wait!! With the stock motor, I may just grab the single 255 and drop it in. If I'm going to be turning up the boost I will hopefully have a new engine waiting, in which case a fuel pump change out wouldn't be a huge deal. But added fuel security and preparedness is never a bad thing from what it sounds like with FI.
Start budgeting to go more with your Huron Kit. I started out with a 7475 on a stock LS1 and in less than 1 year I had a Thompson 5.3 Might Mouse, PT88, and 20 psi.
exactly lol. i went from a stock ls1 7575, and less than a year as well got a thompson 416 ls3 with a billet s480 at 20psi😁 lol still got the a/c to but yeah build for future goals because boost will suck you in with it and only make u want more and more and more...... then a lil more... then a lil spray on toppa that.. lol. goodluck with the build man
Having recently finished the installation of this very kit, here are some recommendations:
Ditto on the MightyMouse PCV can. I'd also recommend picking up an IAT sensor (from the Typhoon/Syclone) and a weld-in bung for the charge pipe. The rubber grommet *can* hold low boost, but it just doesn't strike me as being the best solution.
For fuel, you may want to leave yourself some room to grow. I have 80# Dekas running in a very similar setup, and they're currently running at around 55% injector duty cycle. No, they're not maxed, but this leaves room to grow. Having talked a lot with some local FI buds, there were mixed feelings over fuel pumps- some folks prefer a big single pump (claiming more complexity in a system leading to possible failure), while some like twin setups (flow on demand, activated via Hobbs switch). I went with twins.
I'd definitely suggest that you upgrade your valve springs before you start throwing boost at the engine- it's not a matter of bumping your RPM range, but comes down to the prevention of valve float. It's relatively cheap insurance, as is a fresh oil pump. There are several relatively cheap insurance policies for your motor which you should look at before tossing a turbo at it, but these are my barest recommendations of "definitely replace".
For longevity of the rear end, street tires are the way to go. Stickies and hard launches generally seem to be the killers of the rear ends more than just having power on tap.
One other thing which came to mind... Stuff's going to get hotter than hell under your hood. Make sure you route anything made of rubber WELL away from the plumbing. I managed to melt my power steering lines, and then cooked a power wire on the compressor housing. Lessons learned- hopefully you can avoid that headache.
Anyway, enjoy the build.
Last edited by JackrabbitSlim; 07-31-2015 at 11:49 AM.
Reason: forgot to finish a sentence
Having recently finished the installation of this very kit, here are some recommendations:
Ditto on the MightyMouse PCV can. I'd also recommend picking up an IAT sensor (from the Typhoon/Syclone) and a weld-in bung for the charge pipe. The rubber grommet *can* hold low boost, but it just doesn't strike me as being the best solution.
For fuel, you may want to leave yourself some room to grow. I have 80# Dekas running in a very similar setup, and they're currently running at around 55% injector duty cycle. No, they're not maxed, but this leaves room to grow. Having talked a lot with some local FI buds, there were mixed feelings over fuel pumps- some folks prefer a big single pump (claiming more complexity in a system leading to possible failure), while some like twin setups (flow on demand, activated via Hobbs switch). I went with twins.
I'd definitely suggest that you upgrade your valve springs before you start throwing boost at the engine- it's not a matter of bumping your RPM range, but comes down to the prevention of valve float. It's relatively cheap insurance, as is a fresh oil pump. There are several relatively cheap insurance policies for your motor which you should look at before tossing a turbo at it, but these are my barest recommendations of "definitely replace".
For longevity of the rear end, street tires are the way to go. Stickies and hard launches generally seem to be the killers of the rear ends more than just having power on tap.
One other thing which came to mind... Stuff's going to get hotter than hell under your hood. Make sure you route anything made of rubber WELL away from the plumbing. I managed to melt my power steering lines, and then cooked a power wire on the compressor housing. Lessons learned- hopefully you can avoid that headache.
Anyway, enjoy the build.
Thanks man! I really appreciate all of the advice. Very direct as intended. My tuner suggested using a single 430 walbro pump, but fitting it into the stock housing seemed difficult. I may try that or get the twin 255's Huron speed sells.
What valve springs would you recommend that will work with the stock cam and potentially for another turbo cam down the road?
Funny that you mentioned heat, I am still in the process of routing my battery termial wires that span over the entire turbo and crossover pipe. May end up wrapping them in something heat resistant and tying them up to ensure they will not melt.
What are you using for your vacuum lines. Some have said to run the wastegate and BOV T'd into the intake manifold for reference. I plan on running off of the spring to start with.
Thanks!
I've been interested in using cincy speed also, let us know how their services are.
Will do, probably a couple weeks out at this point. I visited their shop and met them. Seem like cool guys and I have a few F-body friends in town that highly recommend them.
I'll be following along. Definitely keep up with the pictures. Any pics of where you tapped into the oil pan?
It might be easier to upload the pics to photo bucket and you can copy and paste the image links in your thread and they will be much bigger without having to click the attachment. Just a suggestion
Here is a picture of my Oil Tap. Not very pretty but hopefully gets the job done. I know there are still threads showing on the NPT fitting but it went in a good bit and started to get very hard to turn. I was afraid of stripping it so I left it alone and sealed it up.
Here is a picture of my turbo drain line. I ordered the set that Jon sells at Huronspeed. It was initially too long so I trimmed it, but cut it a bit short trying to get it perfect. Since it has a 90 degree angle, it slopes upward very slightly. If this is an issue then I will replace the fitting with a 45 degree one to help the downward slope.
Last edited by Whip_N_01SS; 07-31-2015 at 07:17 PM.
IF anyone can shed some light on this. I need to know what size either a vacuum thread or plug would be to fit this. Wondering what people with a turbonetics use.
Looking good. I would try to reposition the turbo a tad so the oil doesnt have to go UP any. I would assume that port on the turbo is 1/8 NPT or 1/4NPT Either way a pretty cheap plug to buy.
07-30-2015, 11:41 PM
2001 SS Huron Speed T4 kit Stock ls1 build 
Since it has a 90 degree angle, it slopes upward very slightly. If this is an issue then I will replace the fitting with a 45 degree one to help the downward slope.
