GT500 M122 on a cathedral head build in a Grand Prix 2+2
#42
TECH Addict
iTrader: (22)
Sounds like you're thinking ahead, rock on
The older DBW shouldnt be terrible to find. If you want OEM, yes its tricky to track down that particular combo, but its essentially a C5 TB with the sensors reversed. If you find a 03-05 DBW harness and order some C5 connectors, you should have it covered
Digital cruise on a cable TB is pretty simple too. You need the box and a compatible GM cruise stalk. Theres a good thread on here about it
I shelved the M122 side mount for the 3.0L techco after shredding my 5th or 6th belt. 10 rib green strips at $80ea are hard to swallow
The older DBW shouldnt be terrible to find. If you want OEM, yes its tricky to track down that particular combo, but its essentially a C5 TB with the sensors reversed. If you find a 03-05 DBW harness and order some C5 connectors, you should have it covered
Digital cruise on a cable TB is pretty simple too. You need the box and a compatible GM cruise stalk. Theres a good thread on here about it
I shelved the M122 side mount for the 3.0L techco after shredding my 5th or 6th belt. 10 rib green strips at $80ea are hard to swallow
#43
Back with some updates! Found a 01-02 DBW harness, pedal, and TAC. Just need a ECM
Made some fuel rails
Final belt routing, looks great!
Spent most of the day organizing the harness and learning what plugs go where. Decided where its routing and labeled and removed the fuse block plugs. Found out my injectors arent the same that are in the harness. I thought the 5.3 had EV6 connectors but the harness doesnt plug into the injector. I think i have the delphi injectors and not EV6 bosch ones. Not a big deal, I am going to run the EV1 style GTP injectors I have laying around from when I went to 60lb on my l67. I just have to convince my college buddy to part his GTP out a little more to get the last 2, hehe!
Made some fuel rails
Final belt routing, looks great!
Spent most of the day organizing the harness and learning what plugs go where. Decided where its routing and labeled and removed the fuse block plugs. Found out my injectors arent the same that are in the harness. I thought the 5.3 had EV6 connectors but the harness doesnt plug into the injector. I think i have the delphi injectors and not EV6 bosch ones. Not a big deal, I am going to run the EV1 style GTP injectors I have laying around from when I went to 60lb on my l67. I just have to convince my college buddy to part his GTP out a little more to get the last 2, hehe!
#44
Still around just been busy with classes. Made it home for spring break to do some work.
Got headers for it, speed engineering 4th gen stainless. Needed some mods but they work great for the price.
Pied and flipped the drivers header 8 degrees. Now it goes straight back.
Trimmed the UCA a bit and hammered the #4 primary to get it to clear.
Made some progress today. Bolted the intake and blower together for the last time and fit the fuel rails and injectors. Leak checked the rails and it looks okay so far. Also started doing the wiring on the fuse box. Moved some wires in the harness and got it in place pretty close. Also moved the tailshaft mount on the trans a bit to the drivers side to gain a bit of room on the header. Starter is in too. Dad helped a bunch on the wiring and got the grounds made.
Just need to weld the motor mounts in, put in the torque converter bolts, bolt on headers for the last time, get the TB on and finish the wiring. Then its ready for a dry fire!
Got headers for it, speed engineering 4th gen stainless. Needed some mods but they work great for the price.
Pied and flipped the drivers header 8 degrees. Now it goes straight back.
Trimmed the UCA a bit and hammered the #4 primary to get it to clear.
Made some progress today. Bolted the intake and blower together for the last time and fit the fuel rails and injectors. Leak checked the rails and it looks okay so far. Also started doing the wiring on the fuse box. Moved some wires in the harness and got it in place pretty close. Also moved the tailshaft mount on the trans a bit to the drivers side to gain a bit of room on the header. Starter is in too. Dad helped a bunch on the wiring and got the grounds made.
Just need to weld the motor mounts in, put in the torque converter bolts, bolt on headers for the last time, get the TB on and finish the wiring. Then its ready for a dry fire!
#45
Had some troubles getting oil pressure. Cranked it for about 60 seconds total and it wouldn't make any pressure. Cranked it with the filter off and it wouldnt even flow. Started it for about 5 seconds twice and it didnt make pressure. Pump seemed to be airlocked.
I ended up having a spare 5.3 block laying around that I pulled the oil galley plug out of and drilled/tapped 1/4 NPT into the plug. Went in the port right behind the PS pump. Put an elbow on, adapted to some -6 hydro hose, and had an empty propane tank that had a valve welded to. Filled it up about a quart and put about 25PSI in the tank. Did it about twice and got oil pressure.
Need to get some rad hoses, steam port parts, and decide what I am running for the throttle body motor. My 00-02 DBW motor adapted to the ford TB isn't exactly working. I am running a DBC 01 sierra ECM that I put all the tables out of a DBW 02 6.0 escalade with the 00-02 DBW style harness.
The TB motor is turning on when I hit the key, when I wait a while it tries to open the TB and when I cycle it quickly it tries to close the TB to about 0% TPS. It sits at about 15% on the idle spring. If I knew more about a gt500 TB motor I would just use that but I have no clue if the 00-02 DBW GM TAC can control a ford TB motor. Anybody know what GM uses to run the TB? Is it 5V digital? 12V? Any clue for ford stuff? That might be an email HPtuners support question.
I ended up having a spare 5.3 block laying around that I pulled the oil galley plug out of and drilled/tapped 1/4 NPT into the plug. Went in the port right behind the PS pump. Put an elbow on, adapted to some -6 hydro hose, and had an empty propane tank that had a valve welded to. Filled it up about a quart and put about 25PSI in the tank. Did it about twice and got oil pressure.
Need to get some rad hoses, steam port parts, and decide what I am running for the throttle body motor. My 00-02 DBW motor adapted to the ford TB isn't exactly working. I am running a DBC 01 sierra ECM that I put all the tables out of a DBW 02 6.0 escalade with the 00-02 DBW style harness.
The TB motor is turning on when I hit the key, when I wait a while it tries to open the TB and when I cycle it quickly it tries to close the TB to about 0% TPS. It sits at about 15% on the idle spring. If I knew more about a gt500 TB motor I would just use that but I have no clue if the 00-02 DBW GM TAC can control a ford TB motor. Anybody know what GM uses to run the TB? Is it 5V digital? 12V? Any clue for ford stuff? That might be an email HPtuners support question.
#48
With progress comes setbacks.
Bought a V10 f350 tb complete with a motor and tps, same as a GT500 but cheaper! Good news is my DBW pedal is moving the TB, success. Bad news is it only moves when the engine isnt running. As soon as the engine starts the TB wont move. GM wiring will move the ford TB with a GM TPS, cool! I am thinking I am missing a wire in the fuse block or more likely the oil pressure sensor needs to give a signal to the ECM to trigger the TB motor. Not sure though.
Bought a 5 to 4" silicone reducer and got my filter setup done with spare parts I had laying around.
Built some aluminum steam port blocks and bought some fittings to try to get that problem solved. Absolutely no room with the maggie intake so that didnt work. Gotta build some different stuff and pull the intake off to get to it. The maggie kit steam port line costs $100 and not paying that much for a tube and a line.
Power steering pump was dented and leaks out of the O ring so gotta get a different one. My SBC pump I got with the car doesnt fit since the reservoirs are different.
Heater hoses are in and dad scrounged the exhaust parts to at least quiet the thing down a bit. Had a flowmaster 40 laying around at the farm (full of straw from mice, blew like a gallon of straw out on startup, haha) and bought a 29 buck fleet farm cherry bomb turbo style muffler. One muffler for the lopey kerchunk kerchunk idle, one muffler for that signature cherry bomb shitty sound! Had 2 stainless 90s laying around so I ended up with some redneck dual sidepipes. Good enough to hear for any rod knocks and tuning/bringing it to the body shop to pull the dent in the quarter. He also took a chunk of 4x6 3/16 wall tube and welded in place to make a dual exhaust trans crossmember. Ill have to get a pic of that.
So its a power steering pump, oil pressure sensor (maybe) or something to get the TB to work, steam lines, and some work on the pedal to have a running and driving car! Hang the door, fenders, ect about it!
Bought a V10 f350 tb complete with a motor and tps, same as a GT500 but cheaper! Good news is my DBW pedal is moving the TB, success. Bad news is it only moves when the engine isnt running. As soon as the engine starts the TB wont move. GM wiring will move the ford TB with a GM TPS, cool! I am thinking I am missing a wire in the fuse block or more likely the oil pressure sensor needs to give a signal to the ECM to trigger the TB motor. Not sure though.
Bought a 5 to 4" silicone reducer and got my filter setup done with spare parts I had laying around.
Built some aluminum steam port blocks and bought some fittings to try to get that problem solved. Absolutely no room with the maggie intake so that didnt work. Gotta build some different stuff and pull the intake off to get to it. The maggie kit steam port line costs $100 and not paying that much for a tube and a line.
Power steering pump was dented and leaks out of the O ring so gotta get a different one. My SBC pump I got with the car doesnt fit since the reservoirs are different.
Heater hoses are in and dad scrounged the exhaust parts to at least quiet the thing down a bit. Had a flowmaster 40 laying around at the farm (full of straw from mice, blew like a gallon of straw out on startup, haha) and bought a 29 buck fleet farm cherry bomb turbo style muffler. One muffler for the lopey kerchunk kerchunk idle, one muffler for that signature cherry bomb shitty sound! Had 2 stainless 90s laying around so I ended up with some redneck dual sidepipes. Good enough to hear for any rod knocks and tuning/bringing it to the body shop to pull the dent in the quarter. He also took a chunk of 4x6 3/16 wall tube and welded in place to make a dual exhaust trans crossmember. Ill have to get a pic of that.
So its a power steering pump, oil pressure sensor (maybe) or something to get the TB to work, steam lines, and some work on the pedal to have a running and driving car! Hang the door, fenders, ect about it!
#51
I have been swamped wrapping up college. At least im a gadjeate now. Off for a few weeks before I start my new full time job so between moving Im getting a little done.
I make a little progress and loose a bit. Constant fight for little stuff.
I had a hunch the lack of oil pressure senor signal was stopping the TB from moving. Also wanted to get some knock sensors in there so I picked up the sensors, harness, and oil pressure sendor. Didnt have a socket to fit the big sensor so had to make one and proceeded to break the damn sensor in half. Got mad and let it sit.
Also the knock sensor harness doesnt fit between the valley cover and intake so I gotta mill a slot in the cover for the wires. Argh.
About a month later (now) I had time so I put a new oil pressure sender in. Its plugged in but HPT isnt reading signal. Im not sure if HPT reads signal on it or not. I dont think it ever did on my 3800. Might be a bad sensor or something I dont know. HPT reads like -15 PSI.
Semi good news is I got my steam lines in. There wasnt an aftermarket kit I saw that worked so I built some compression line stuff. 20 pounds of boost and some copper line?
There was nothing factory or anything I could find that would do a 4 port bead port setup and fit under the blower manifold. Hopefully it lasts. The magnusson front only line was like $120 and I said no way to that.
I tried starting it and my fuel pump didnt turn on. Was going to return it but took it off and put voltage to it on the bench and tapped it and loosened it up. Thankfully it works again.
Still dont have working pedal. As soon as the engine gets crank signal the ECM stops reading the pedal. I hooked HPT up and the pedal outputs 0-175% throttle for some reason. If I start the engine with 25% (or whatever) throttle as soon as the engine starts the ECM reads the pedal at 0% regardless of the position of the pedal. The pedal is getting 12V source in the harness weather the engine is on or off and the 5V circuits on the pedal are the same engine running or not.
Im really close to buying a DBC harness and DBC TB and scrapping this harness. Theres no support for DBW stuff and nobody has a clue what is causing this. There is something with the ECM weather in the tune or missing sensor that ignores the pedal with the engine running.
I make a little progress and loose a bit. Constant fight for little stuff.
I had a hunch the lack of oil pressure senor signal was stopping the TB from moving. Also wanted to get some knock sensors in there so I picked up the sensors, harness, and oil pressure sendor. Didnt have a socket to fit the big sensor so had to make one and proceeded to break the damn sensor in half. Got mad and let it sit.
Also the knock sensor harness doesnt fit between the valley cover and intake so I gotta mill a slot in the cover for the wires. Argh.
About a month later (now) I had time so I put a new oil pressure sender in. Its plugged in but HPT isnt reading signal. Im not sure if HPT reads signal on it or not. I dont think it ever did on my 3800. Might be a bad sensor or something I dont know. HPT reads like -15 PSI.
Semi good news is I got my steam lines in. There wasnt an aftermarket kit I saw that worked so I built some compression line stuff. 20 pounds of boost and some copper line?
There was nothing factory or anything I could find that would do a 4 port bead port setup and fit under the blower manifold. Hopefully it lasts. The magnusson front only line was like $120 and I said no way to that.
I tried starting it and my fuel pump didnt turn on. Was going to return it but took it off and put voltage to it on the bench and tapped it and loosened it up. Thankfully it works again.
Still dont have working pedal. As soon as the engine gets crank signal the ECM stops reading the pedal. I hooked HPT up and the pedal outputs 0-175% throttle for some reason. If I start the engine with 25% (or whatever) throttle as soon as the engine starts the ECM reads the pedal at 0% regardless of the position of the pedal. The pedal is getting 12V source in the harness weather the engine is on or off and the 5V circuits on the pedal are the same engine running or not.
Im really close to buying a DBC harness and DBC TB and scrapping this harness. Theres no support for DBW stuff and nobody has a clue what is causing this. There is something with the ECM weather in the tune or missing sensor that ignores the pedal with the engine running.
#52
Gradjumadjeated from cawledge and moving to my new place so I needed to get this thing kinda together to move. Gave up on the DBW for now and just welded an arm to the TB to have DBC to move the car.
Pulled the car off the jackstands and it moved under its own power for the first time in like 15 years.
De-moused the interior and put it back in. Doesn't match but G body interior parts are next to impossible to find anymore (especially GP stuff).
Cleaned 15 years of rat **** and mold off the dash, looks surprisingly good.
So next up, needs a th400 and rear end (8.5 or 9). Weatherstrip, carpet, real exhaust, rad that doesnt leak, PS pressure hose that doesnt leak, but I'm happy.
And an obligatory hype video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ezsN...ature=youtu.be
Pulled the car off the jackstands and it moved under its own power for the first time in like 15 years.
De-moused the interior and put it back in. Doesn't match but G body interior parts are next to impossible to find anymore (especially GP stuff).
Cleaned 15 years of rat **** and mold off the dash, looks surprisingly good.
So next up, needs a th400 and rear end (8.5 or 9). Weatherstrip, carpet, real exhaust, rad that doesnt leak, PS pressure hose that doesnt leak, but I'm happy.
And an obligatory hype video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ezsN...ature=youtu.be
#55
Cool Project! I'm working on something similar, putting an m122 on a 5.3 in my 2002 Suburban. I have the Maggie base but decided to make the top plate so I can move the blower where I want it. A friend gave me his stock CTS-V balancer, I'm hoping I can use it but the 10 rib section is on the front.
#56
Few updates!
Moved to IA to start my new job as an Engineer for Deere.
Moved into my new place and mostly settled in.
Bolted on the nose and hood. Hood was really close and cut a bit of bracing and it fits!
What a pair!
And I was saving up for a th400 build, carpet and other stuff but I got a heck of deal on a 1941 monarch lathe (monarchs are one of the best lathes built IMO) and it was perfect timing since my buddy had a trailer and telehandler to move his mill into his new place. Bought a surface grinder in pieces and surface plate too.
Bought a th400 core too.
Moved to IA to start my new job as an Engineer for Deere.
Moved into my new place and mostly settled in.
Bolted on the nose and hood. Hood was really close and cut a bit of bracing and it fits!
What a pair!
And I was saving up for a th400 build, carpet and other stuff but I got a heck of deal on a 1941 monarch lathe (monarchs are one of the best lathes built IMO) and it was perfect timing since my buddy had a trailer and telehandler to move his mill into his new place. Bought a surface grinder in pieces and surface plate too.
Bought a th400 core too.
#60
Yep.
I do have updates!
I was going to build the th400 i picked up for the car until I found a t56 but I got lucky cruising CL and found a lt1 t56 for a good price. Instead of blowing a month or two getting the th400 in and almost a thousand bucks im just going to bypass that step and go straight to the t56 like I wanted in the first place. Next task is figure out what clutch and flywheel setup I need to get the lt1 t56 onto the long crank style 6.0. I think an NV4500 flywheel and some type of standard clutch with a hydro conversion throw out bearing will do it but I don't know yet.
And my roomate decided he wanted to l67 swap his fiero so I'm a bit slower at making progress.
I do have updates!
I was going to build the th400 i picked up for the car until I found a t56 but I got lucky cruising CL and found a lt1 t56 for a good price. Instead of blowing a month or two getting the th400 in and almost a thousand bucks im just going to bypass that step and go straight to the t56 like I wanted in the first place. Next task is figure out what clutch and flywheel setup I need to get the lt1 t56 onto the long crank style 6.0. I think an NV4500 flywheel and some type of standard clutch with a hydro conversion throw out bearing will do it but I don't know yet.
And my roomate decided he wanted to l67 swap his fiero so I'm a bit slower at making progress.