User-c3

Been running the bone stock engine on 7lbs for 2 years now. I dont get to drive it and track it as much as I would like but feel like I'm getting valve float when I do push it hard.

Can I add dual valve springs, new gaskets, and head studs without any problems and re-tuning? Will the higher seat pressure of the springs be an issue with the stock cam, lifters and rockers?

Any input would be appreciated.

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

If your keeping the factory cam a set of LS6 single springs (cheapest) or single PAC1218's are all that's necessary. Dual springs aren't needed. Neither are head studs at those boost levels.

User-c3

And If I want to turn it up some more??

DavidBoren

Don't you mean LS7 valve springs?

The LS6 springs are designed to control lightweight LS6 valves, and I wouldn't trust them to control standard weight valves with any amount of boost.

LS7 springs are rated at ~300#, and the aforementioned pac1218's are rated at ~310#, both will handle moderate boost, and support a decent amount of lift.

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Depends how much you want to turn it up. If you aren’t dishing out more than 600whp I wouldn’t’ worry about studs.

The amount of boost you can run on an LS6 spring will depend on your backpressure levels.

I meant the blue LS6 springs because they are cheapest without going china at about $60. They are plenty for a truck cam and moderate boost. That cam has low lift/duration and makes peak power around 5k. You don’t need heavy springs.

User-c3

not running a truck cam. Engine is a 2001 LS1 out of a trans-am.
Is anything else needed for LS7 springs?

Lets say I was to run a double spring, or the Ls7 springs, hardened pushrods, head studs, rod bolts, head gaskets. What would be a safe to say number of boost and HP to be at? Thats leaving stock bottom and cam to possibly avoid a new tune.

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Factory LS1 cam is pretty much the same deal. Devils in the details man, be specific! List exactly what you have and exactly what you want. U say you don't want to change the tune, but you want to add more boost?

Read more and buy less IMO. You don't need any of that for a factory LS1 engine and mild boost. Simple single beehive spring with enough added pressure to compensate for the boost level is all that's needed. Hardedned pushrods, rodbolts etc are a massive waste of money on a factory engine. I've run factory rod bolts and push rods up to 26lbs (8 second quarter mile) on a single pac1218. Rod bolts are not a weak link and neither are pushrods at your level....and MUCH higher.

DavidBoren

As for studs and rod bolts and pushrods... It's your money, if you feel that the added peace of mind is worth the price, then do it. But it's not necessary for this level of build.

Safe and reasonable limits would probably be ~20psi or 800rwhp... Whatever comes first. You can find success stories above those levels, and tales of failure below them, as well. But just for a rule of thumb, or whatnot, I'd stay below 20psi on a 3.9" bore ls1.