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My car has spiked more than boost has stayed consistent since I got it done. I'm still purposely pig rich on my tune, every time I take the car out and lay on it it sounds like a gun goes off when you let off the pedal. It's made strange noises from day one and it's still holding together somehow.. I think that your paranoia could be playing a factor my man, at least I hope so. Go burn ya one before the next drive and I bet you won't worry as much..
Here is a screenshot. I'm having issues getting the wideband to read in HPT. It shows up perfect on the config, but as soon as I hit the scan button it greys out. A friend was watching the wideband and he said it pegs 10:1 as soon as it starts building boost and stays there til I let off.
~240 kpa. 12 degrees of timing. 100% duty cycle. If this was a small On3 turbo or something I wouldn't be too worried, but its a billet S475 and I have 10:1 compression. Afterwards it makes all kinds of pops/cracks/ticks/scraping noises. Seems to go away once it has cooled off.
If it's pegging at 10, get the fueling fixed, as that is far far too rich, especially when you dont know just how much fuel is getting dumped in there.
I don't know the answer to your question Joe but I do know those feels so don't feel alone in your paranoia. I'll over analyze a situation and usually find its something simple that's the problem but all the while I'm tossing around in my head all the bad things it could be.
If it's pegging at 10, get the fueling fixed, as that is far far too rich, especially when you dont know just how much fuel is getting dumped in there.
At this point, I'm glad it was running super rich. At least at when it did decide to hit 20 PSI on pump gas it didn't blow up.
I'm going to grab a T-fitting and a spare gauge and play with the boost controller by hooking the line up to the air compressor to see if I can get the wastegate to open right where I want. Then I'll work on lowering the VE table to get the AFR dialed in.
I did a compression check last night. I had ~210 PSI in all cylinders. I guess the engine is still pretty healthy. No spun bearings. Plugs all looked good. Heat range on the straps looked fine, just lots of soot around the outside.
20 psi on 10.0 comp. is getting up there, lol
I bought one of those cheap little brass Tee boost controllers,
never used it-the spring would get caught on the internal threads,
and could add boost even when you turned the screw out
My engine is noisy, tapping, etc, used to bother me, but now
I kind of just trust its noise-the cyls do have a lot of clearance,
so the pistons slap around some, lol
Hopefully your fine, prob need to put some safety controls
Why not remove the controller and just put the smallest spring in?
I started with 7 lbs, then 10, 12, 15 etc.
Tune each level, move up if it's not fast enough.
I've had no issues with spikes.
Ron
Why not remove the controller and just put the smallest spring in?
I started with 7 lbs, then 10, 12, 15 etc.
Tune each level, move up if it's not fast enough.
I've had no issues with spikes.
Ron
I'm probably going to toss in one of the other springs for 11 or so PSI base and then grab a controller that works. I'm going to do some testing tonight by pressurizing the lines to see if I can't figure out this controller. It seems to be leaking bad from somewhere.
Why not remove the controller and just put the smallest spring in?
I started with 7 lbs, then 10, 12, 15 etc.
Tune each level, move up if it's not fast enough.
I've had no issues with spikes.
Ron
Come on Ron, you know most of us don't have that kinda discipline
It's still acting up. 12:1 AFR now anywhere above 140 kPa, up to 18 PSI.
I'm having issues with the 2nd fuel pump. Some very strange electrical gremlin that I don't understand. When the AFRs were pegging full rich, I was running the 2nd fuel pump. Even with the Hobbs switch, the pump stays on indefinitely once I shut off the car, but the alcohol injection that's also on the same Hobbs switch shuts off fine.
AFR went 12:1 with 2nd fuel pump off or on? Kinda got confused reading that..
That was with one fuel pump.
Here is the confusing part.
The ground for the meth pump and relay to 2nd fuel pump are both on the hobbs switch together. Opposite end of hobbs is grounded to the battery. Neither of them should have ground until 8 PSI when the switch closes and they both get grounded.
Zero problems with the meth pump from what I can tell, but I'm having the weirdest issues with the 2nd fuel pump. After our 20 PSI pegged full rich pull, I shut the car off and noticed the pump was still running. Even with the key out, it was still running. I had to yank the ground wire going to the hobbs switch off of the relay to shut the pump off.
When the ground wire going to the hobbs switch is connected to the ground on the relay and I turn the key on, the 1st fuel pump primes and shut off, the 2nd one stays running, even though the hobbs switch doesn't have ground so it shouldn't have kicked on to begin with. Even once I turn the key off, the pump stays running. Unhooking this ground is the only way to shut it off.
The strangest part, when both pumps were running and I was driving around, it wasn't running rich. No change in AFR. The regulator isn't vacuum referenced so it holds a constant fuel pressure of 60 PSI. But at WOT, it pegs full rich around the time the 8 PSI hobbs switch would normally connect the grounds, and stays full rich even at 120% duty cycle.
Hey run your second pump full time. To bypass the hobbs switch bc they do sometimes go bad. Also i read u reused your rod bearings when u gapped rings. Is this correct?
I ask bc i done the same to my lq4. Pulled pistons checked rings and reused rod bearings. I kept everyrhing marked and in order. Well motor had 40-50 oil psi before tear down. I reinstalled everything and had 30psi hot idle. I later ended up bending 2 rods on a boost spike and bad detonation. So i tore it back down and installed new rod bearings and oil psi went back up to before 40-50psi.
So for now on i dont reuse main or rod bearings on no engine build if i dissassemble. They crush to a certain clearance when torqued and that cant not be duplicated once torn apart.
[QUOTE=brandon6.0;18987201]Hey run your second pump full time. To bypass the hobbs switch bc they do sometimes go bad. Also i read u reused your rod bearings when u gapped rings. Is this correct?
I ask bc i done the same to my lq4. Pulled pistons checked rings and reused rod bearings. I kept everyrhing marked and in order. Well motor had 40-50 oil psi before tear down. I reinstalled everything and had 30psi hot idle. I later ended up bending 2 rods on a boost spike and bad detonation. So i tore it back down and installed new rod bearings and oil psi went back up to before 40-50psi.
So for now on i dont reuse main or rod bearings on no engine build if i dissassemble. They crush to a certain clearance when torqued and that cant not be duplicated once torn apart.
Just figured i would share..[/QUOTE
This is wrong on the bearings. They don't crush once torqued. They're seated in the cap and rod/block. There's always clearance. Whether it's enough or not is another story. With what you've said, every time you check a bearing you put a new one in? I don't think so. Plus how would you know what the clearance was if you couldn't torque it a second time. Bad info.
I understand what your saying about checking clearance a second time. Bc i do the exact same thing. But like i said i reused original bearings after tear down and lost pressure. Pulled and replaced with new ones and pressure went back up to normal and exactly as it was before the first tear down. U tell me what happined? The bearings didnt seat back like they were run the first time. Pressure loss and supply shows that.
Now if i just removed one rod bearing or main instead of all of them, by all means reuse that bearing. But if i removed them all u best believe im installing new bearings. Thats just me. Do as u wish.
Are you running the 12v source for the relay on the Hobbs directly to battery? Primary fuel pump triggered from factory fuel pump wire? I was having similar issues and my PCM was bricked. Don't think that's th issue here but just trying to see how it's working.
The black wire that connects to the hobbs has the ground for the meth pump connected to it. When I key on, the 2nd pump kicks on and stays running until I either pull the relay and unhook the ground wire. When I unhook the ground from the relay and ground it to the frame, the meth pump will kick on as expected. I'm not running a boost controlled relay on the meth pump. It is powered straight from the battery with an inline fuse, and grounded on the hobbs switch.
Also, I found the reason for my boost spike. The ball and spring boost controller was a piece of junk. We used a brass T-fitting. One end to boost controller, one to boost gauge, and another to a regulator that was hooked to my air compressor. Pegged the boost gauge at 30 lbs and the wastegate was only cracked open. Pulled off the controller and ran the line from the T fitting straight to the wastegate, wide open at 7 lbs. Put one more spring in it, cracks at 12 lbs, open at 16.
I'll take a video of my problem. Its very strange.
09-30-2015, 07:41 PM
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