Anthony Gammel

I have a want for more power but I'd like to do it as cheap as possible cause I don't have very much money
It's got 93,000 miles and I'd like to run a turbo a nice amount of boost with out breaking the bank (not going to pay alot for 3 pounds) , how can I go about doing that
Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated

DavidBoren

You came to the right place, sir.

Any of the denmah special guides or sloppy mechanic walkthroughs should answer most of your questions.

Quick rundown of what you can expect, though:

You have an ls6, which is has the good intake and good valves, so all you need is some 80# injectors and some valve springs (pac1218 or comp918, or similar).

Flip your exhaust manifolds, fabricate a 2.5" diameter, mild steel crossover pipe.

Add a 50mm eBay wastegate, a 75mm eBay turbo, an eBay intercooler, and a 60mm eBay blow off valve.

Get a boost reference fuel regulator. Upgrade your fuel pump, or add a second pump on a Hobbs switch, and run new -8 fuel line to your fuel regulator, and use the old fuel line as your return line.

IronBlocked

Do you have a welder/welding knowledge? if not you should go for a fbody no A/C front mount, other than that, david led you in the right way

coltboostin

That's great, but none of that applies here because none of it will fit.


Honestly-do a LOT or research. Read, read, and read some more. start with the basics, then consider your chassis. If you have not fabricated before, or do not own a welder, the cheap thing is going right out the window as the V is a bad platform to learn on.


IF you can Fab, and feel confident in building a well functioning turbo system, the cheapest thing you can do is make a rear mount kit with a comp oil-less turbo (easy) or a China turbo with a feed, and a scavenging pump set up.


Good luck-kind of sounds like you will need it.

DavidBoren

I had the v6 cts, but it's the same chassis, and I can tell you right now that you have room in the engine bay for a turbo. Yes you do. It will go exactly where the factory air box is located. You might have to remove some unnecessary sheet metal or notch the frame, but it will fit behind the headlight. It's just metal, it can be modified. Never said it would be easy.

If you don't have the skills or equipment to do it yourself, or know someone who can, then doing this on the cheap isn't going to happen. Sorry.

Cheapest way to add boost to the Vee without cutting **** up, would be the maggie kit specifically for it. You can find those magnuson kits for relatively cheap used.

Pretty sure there are procharger/vortech/centri blower kits specifically for your car, as well, and you can probably find them used for a good price.

With a top mount blower, like the maggie or whipple, all you have to do is mount the reservoir and heat exchanger.

For a centrifugal blower, you just have the front mount intercooler.

You have options, but your platform presents some packaging problems that will require careful planning to overcome.

To do any of this cheaply, you are going to have to be able to do a lot of the work yourself.

Cheap and boost don't really go together.
Cheap and Cadillac don't really go together, either.
I don't foresee a boosted Cadillac being any cheaper...

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

Please....PLEASE stop giving random advice you read about in other threads. coltboostin already hit on it. You literally just spouted off random crap you've seen in other threads instead of asking how much he has to spend or goals or anything.

DavidBoren

Please explain what, exactly, will not work with what I posted earlier.

The OP said he wants cheap boost. That statement, alone, allowed me the liberty of assuming that his power goals are modest.

And that assumption led me to believe that the generic denmah special eBay 75mm turbo route would probably be sufficient for his intentions.

I know it's dangerous to assume anything, but when the very first post mentioned doing this as cheaply as possible, I figured that the goals would sensibly match the budget.

What cheap goals can the OP possibly have that wouldn't be fulfilled by a single 75mm hairdryer and some 80# injectors?

More information about how the OP intends to drive, and what, if anything, has been done to the drivetrain will make turbo selection easier, but the general crap that I listed earlier still applies.

His car being a V1 puts him at the distinct disadvantage of having a rear end made of porcelain, which is going to have to be addressed before any substantial amount of power can be made, but he isn't asking about that... Yet.

Adding boost to a V1 via turbo is what is currently being discussed. Other options have been presented, but turbo first generation Vee is the name of this game. And the governing rule is doing this as cheap as possible.

Cutting a hole in the fender is free if you already have a sawzall. On the v6, there's already a 5" diameter hole in the fender anyways... It's probably there on the Vee-car, too. Enlarge that hole until you have room for the turbo. Weld a turbo support to whatever metal is left below the hole you literally just enlarged. Mount the turbo so the filter is in the fender.

It's not going to be easy. And it's going to take some creativity/ingenuity/patience with the plumbing, but to say it flat out will not fit is just untrue.

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

If you insist but only because I like you

Again, CTS-V, not F-body. Where does this boost referenced fuel regulator get installed? Why does he need to run new -8 fuel line for a mild turbo setup? That was a cursory glance at your post. You need to either built a few setups yourself first or do A LOT more reading before telling someone something that could cause them to spend thousands of dollars only to be unhappy with their setup later on.

Anthony Gammel

I appreciate your advice David really helps , but with a maggie kit or a vortec it's going to run me a good 8 grand , I'm not really expecting a eBay turbo build to run me 8gs
I don't know how to weld but I do have a friend who does
But what boost numbers am I expecting off the stock bottom end along with the **** rear end that's on there ?
I plan on doing ls7 flywheel clutch slave upgrade along with porting the heads here soon before I get anything started
Also , I'm sort of looking to get a turbo to increase my fuel economy , but I don't think that's going to work cause I won't be able to keep my foot out of it haha
If it starts to look to expensive I may just turn my head to nitrous oxide

actrite80

iTrader: (2)

Come over the the cts-v section you will learn a thing or two about how special our platform is

DavidBoren

I mentioned the 75mm turbo because you can find plenty of people using it. The 80# injectors and supporting fuel system with new line and pump is just so you only has to do it once, and gives you room to grow. Mount the fuel regulator on the firewall, be creative, it doesn't have to be directly on the rails. You can cut and weld the factory exhaust manifolds as a starting point for your hotside kit. I wasn't trying to sound like they were perfect fit turbo manifolds if flipped backwards. And the hollow stem/sodium filled ls6 valves are better than non hollow stem/sodium filled non ls6 valves, so I will still stand by that statement.

runsfromdacops

your going to be fighting a very up hill battle with the V1. if you have the fab skills then it gets a little easier but its a very changeling platform to build on. if not its going to cost a ton to pull off.

you can look at how i did my car in the FS section in the cts-v area hear to get a idea how some have done it.i think there are only 5-6 turbo V1s around so that should give you a idea of what your getting in to

DavidBoren

I know, those blower kits are freaking expensive, for sure. Even buying them used is a hard pill to swallow.

The rear mount turbo(s) do seem like the popular choice for the V1, and would work well for this application. Saves you a lot of time and money dealing with the exhaust, as you can just install an H-pipe in place of the factory resonator, and mount the turbos where the factory mufflers were. Or, cut out the spare tire bucket in the trunk floor, and use one turbo with a divided exhaust housing. You have options.

IronBlocked

I agree with the supercharger pricing also turbo is a much superior poweradder, Sounds like you're set! a 150 dollar mig, a scavenge pump, a gt45, a t4 flange, piping and silicone bends