Turbo tunes, how different can they be?
10-31-2015, 05:56 PM
#1
Turbo tunes, how different can they be? When running a turbo, can a tune be made for "economy" and another for "the track"?
I'm not thinking in terms of flip a switch for different tunes but using HP tuners to reload or even swapping PCMs.
I'm looking at starting with ~2004 LM7 5.3 and turboing it. I'm looking for ~600hp while wheeling and "drop it" to 400hp for driving around town daily. The numbers above are just examples.
What would be a good example of a max turbo tune hp and a "de-tuned" turbo hp? Assume only changing the tune and not pulling/changing parts.
I'm not thinking in terms of flip a switch for different tunes but using HP tuners to reload or even swapping PCMs.
I'm looking at starting with ~2004 LM7 5.3 and turboing it. I'm looking for ~600hp while wheeling and "drop it" to 400hp for driving around town daily. The numbers above are just examples.
What would be a good example of a max turbo tune hp and a "de-tuned" turbo hp? Assume only changing the tune and not pulling/changing parts.
11-01-2015, 05:56 AM
#6
The only problem with the boost controller is your low end of boost is determined by the WG spring. You cannot run less than that without a vacuum source separate from the engine. You could run a super low psi spring like 3-4lbs and the boost controller will do the rest for when you "wanna go fast".
I would just say do whatever you can to keep your foot out of the boost. :-)
I would just say do whatever you can to keep your foot out of the boost. :-)
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11-01-2015, 11:08 AM
#8
Sounds like fate that I need to track down the other one for this topic.I wasn't sure on whether the turbo would have an impact on cruising type conditions... ex: 2500rpm doing 70mph.
11-01-2015, 11:23 AM
#9
LOL EXACTLY!
Seriously, the economy, and power tunes are all built into 1 tune, when the overall tuning is done correctly. The ecu uses Manifold pressure to determine the amount of load, and fuels the engine accordingly. There is NO NEED for 2 different tunes.
The only thing you may want to have 'tuned' different is the boost level. that is the job of your boost controller
Edit : unless you plan on running 2 different fuels
Last edited by 3pedals; 11-01-2015 at 05:14 PM.
11-01-2015, 11:25 AM
#10
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Just need an ams500 electronic control or equivalent. Two stages. One runs on wastegate spring alone. Stage 2 is activated by a switch of your choice. Set that for higher boost.
Run 1 tune. And when u need more boost you run stage 2
Thats how mine is. 700 hp on gates, then stage 2 as high as i want to set it, up to 1200-ish hp. Same tune basically although i have a pump gas file and race gas file.
Run 1 tune. And when u need more boost you run stage 2
Thats how mine is. 700 hp on gates, then stage 2 as high as i want to set it, up to 1200-ish hp. Same tune basically although i have a pump gas file and race gas file.
11-01-2015, 10:36 PM
#12
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Why are there so many suggestions to complicate this?
Put in the wastegate spring that matches what you want to run for 'economy'. Use a cheap manual boost controller to turn it up when you want more power.
When cruising, you won't even notice the turbo is there. It has almost zero effect on part throttle power and response. Its not like a blower when it comes to driveability. Thats why most OEM's use turbos now.
Put in the wastegate spring that matches what you want to run for 'economy'. Use a cheap manual boost controller to turn it up when you want more power.
When cruising, you won't even notice the turbo is there. It has almost zero effect on part throttle power and response. Its not like a blower when it comes to driveability. Thats why most OEM's use turbos now.
11-02-2015, 12:55 AM
#13
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To get down to 400 hp you are going to need to run like 2lbs of boost. Only way to do that is to run no wg spring or a really really weak spring and use compressed air and a controller like boost leash or ams.
Let me ask you this before we get crazy here. Have you ever owned a boosted ls motor?
If not just put an 8lb spring in there and drive the car. No one ever de tunes their car that much. You will get used to it and 8lbs will be your lowest setting. I run a fancy controller and have the ability to run about 2lbs, I never do.
Let me ask you this before we get crazy here. Have you ever owned a boosted ls motor?
If not just put an 8lb spring in there and drive the car. No one ever de tunes their car that much. You will get used to it and 8lbs will be your lowest setting. I run a fancy controller and have the ability to run about 2lbs, I never do.
11-02-2015, 07:54 AM
#14
Again, thanks for all the input.
To answer the question of "have I owned a boosted ls motor": No, I have not. I drive a stockish 2004 LQ4 swap in sig and a turbo'd 9-3 Saab
It sounds like the answer to my "problem" is to get a boost controller.
The follow-up question on a boost controller is what type of range does it allow? It sounds like it is not possible to get down to 2lbs of boost... not sure why I'd want THAT low
Also, the 600 down to 400 were numbers out of my rear. Ultimately, I'm hoping to build a turbo LM7 running on 91-93 octane(my memory is short on which is common in Calif)
To answer the question of "have I owned a boosted ls motor": No, I have not. I drive a stockish 2004 LQ4 swap in sig and a turbo'd 9-3 Saab
It sounds like the answer to my "problem" is to get a boost controller.
The follow-up question on a boost controller is what type of range does it allow? It sounds like it is not possible to get down to 2lbs of boost... not sure why I'd want THAT low
Also, the 600 down to 400 were numbers out of my rear.
Ultimately, I'm hoping to build a turbo LM7 running on 91-93 octane(my memory is short on which is common in Calif)
11-02-2015, 08:04 AM
#15
x2, its not rocket science. If I don't want all the boost then I don't drop the hammer.
I wouldn't waste money on a manual boost controller, live like its 2015 and have proper boost control. Its nice being able to set the ramp rate on your wastegates, have multiple boost settings, overboost protection, etc.. Something simple like the eboost street will take care of everything you need and be easy to setup.
I wouldn't waste money on a manual boost controller, live like its 2015 and have proper boost control. Its nice being able to set the ramp rate on your wastegates, have multiple boost settings, overboost protection, etc.. Something simple like the eboost street will take care of everything you need and be easy to setup.
11-02-2015, 08:17 AM
#16
Again, thanks for all the input.
To answer the question of "have I owned a boosted ls motor": No, I have not. I drive a stockish 2004 LQ4 swap in sig and a turbo'd 9-3 Saab
It sounds like the answer to my "problem" is to get a boost controller.
The follow-up question on a boost controller is what type of range does it allow? It sounds like it is not possible to get down to 2lbs of boost... not sure why I'd want THAT low
Also, the 600 down to 400 were numbers out of my rear. Ultimately, I'm hoping to build a turbo LM7 running on 91-93 octane(my memory is short on which is common in Calif)
To answer the question of "have I owned a boosted ls motor": No, I have not. I drive a stockish 2004 LQ4 swap in sig and a turbo'd 9-3 Saab
It sounds like the answer to my "problem" is to get a boost controller.
The follow-up question on a boost controller is what type of range does it allow? It sounds like it is not possible to get down to 2lbs of boost... not sure why I'd want THAT low
Also, the 600 down to 400 were numbers out of my rear.
Ultimately, I'm hoping to build a turbo LM7 running on 91-93 octane(my memory is short on which is common in Calif)
11-02-2015, 11:50 AM
#17
Restricted User
You can't turn it down below the wastegate spring without a super fancy (expensive) boost controller.
I run a 12 lb spring and a $30 boost controller. 12 lbs on the street, takes 10 seconds and a few twists of the **** to run 20 lbs.
I run a 12 lb spring and a $30 boost controller. 12 lbs on the street, takes 10 seconds and a few twists of the **** to run 20 lbs.
11-02-2015, 12:36 PM
#18
A guy local runs a 70mm on an 01 Silverado 5.3 with a 5psi spring. He runs around on 7psi. On pump. When he wants he adds E85, changes the tune & turns it up to 15psi. The same can be done for pump/ race gas tunes.
11-02-2015, 01:13 PM
#19
Yes an electronic boost controller costs more (mine was $285) but its worth more. I run 18lb wastegate springs and 20+ on the controller. Takes less then a second to set higher boost, no fumbling with ***** or remembering how many twists, going back to low boost takes less then a second, plus an electronic boost controller spools faster which to some is worth the price alone.