I finally dyno'd the car. 862/758 spinning the tires.
11-19-2015, 01:16 PM
#42
This is really impressive & encouraging !
Curious, how were your IATs during the pull ?
What do they read cruising around ... maybe a quick hit on the street etc...
( forgot if your IAT sensor is before or after the meth/water ).
I'm asking because my build will be similar and I really don't know what to expect.
In addition, how is the coolant system holding up at idle w/AC on ?
These are things that plagued me with my maggy & I'm hoping to avoid them this time around.
Your input is always appreciated !
Curious, how were your IATs during the pull ?
What do they read cruising around ... maybe a quick hit on the street etc...
( forgot if your IAT sensor is before or after the meth/water ).
I'm asking because my build will be similar and I really don't know what to expect.
In addition, how is the coolant system holding up at idle w/AC on ?
These are things that plagued me with my maggy & I'm hoping to avoid them this time around.
Your input is always appreciated !
11-19-2015, 02:08 PM
#43
11 Second Club
iTrader: (28)
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: FL
Posts: 398
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I took my car too far! Enjoy what you have, save the money. I just did fuel lines, regulator, cage, MWC front suspension, Aerospace brakes, etc.
I'm still on SBE LS1 w/ F1A. Unless something major happens, it will stay just like it is now. Lesson learned!
I'm still on SBE LS1 w/ F1A. Unless something major happens, it will stay just like it is now. Lesson learned!
11-19-2015, 02:11 PM
#44
My responses are in red.
This is really impressive & encouraging !
Curious, how were your IATs during the pull ?
What do they read cruising around ... maybe a quick hit on the street etc...
( forgot if your IAT sensor is before or after the meth/water ).
See, I don't really trust my IAT sensor. It is very slow to respond. It is after my meoh/water nozzles, and during a pull, I typically see it go up 3-4 degrees, and that's what I saw on the dyno. Which is odd because most people see their IAT plummit when it's post the meoh nozzles. Maybe it's my nozzles and how fine of a mist they spray, that it doesn't coat the sensor, I don't know.
I'm asking because my build will be similar and I really don't know what to expect.
In addition, how is the coolant system holding up at idle w/AC on ?
This summer, I ran the a/c a few times, and never had any issues with overheating. The car did get hot on the dyno, but that happens when you make 9 pulls in an hour or so and the fan wasn't really blowing under the car to cool the radiator. I also have a stock t-stat in the car, which is a 190 degree if memory serves me. I may put a 180 t-stat in it to help with that, but to be honest, for my normal driving, it has been fine.
These are things that plagued me with my maggy & I'm hoping to avoid them this time around.
Your input is always appreciated !
Curious, how were your IATs during the pull ?
What do they read cruising around ... maybe a quick hit on the street etc...
( forgot if your IAT sensor is before or after the meth/water ).
See, I don't really trust my IAT sensor. It is very slow to respond. It is after my meoh/water nozzles, and during a pull, I typically see it go up 3-4 degrees, and that's what I saw on the dyno. Which is odd because most people see their IAT plummit when it's post the meoh nozzles. Maybe it's my nozzles and how fine of a mist they spray, that it doesn't coat the sensor, I don't know.
I'm asking because my build will be similar and I really don't know what to expect.
In addition, how is the coolant system holding up at idle w/AC on ?
This summer, I ran the a/c a few times, and never had any issues with overheating. The car did get hot on the dyno, but that happens when you make 9 pulls in an hour or so and the fan wasn't really blowing under the car to cool the radiator. I also have a stock t-stat in the car, which is a 190 degree if memory serves me. I may put a 180 t-stat in it to help with that, but to be honest, for my normal driving, it has been fine.
These are things that plagued me with my maggy & I'm hoping to avoid them this time around.
Your input is always appreciated !
11-19-2015, 05:30 PM
#48
It really is quite fun with how I drive my car. I love back road rowing gears, and the power response from 2500-4500 is amazing, and the torque curve shows that. It makes 535ft/lbs at 3000rpm, and by 3500 rpm, it's already at 620ft/lbs, and by 4000rpm, it hits 700ft/lbs. Based off the old curve, and how this one literally picked up 100ft/lbs from the last setup till it started spinning the tires, it's probably at 800ft/lbs by 5200.
It's funny though, between tweaking the traction control, and modulating the gas, it's quite managable on the street. These R888s are pretty decent tires, and I'm temped to pick up a set of 335/30/18s as my next set of tires. It seemed as though as the tires got hotter, they hooked better. Instead of just completely hazing when they started spinning, they actually caught traction at 5300.
It's funny though, between tweaking the traction control, and modulating the gas, it's quite managable on the street. These R888s are pretty decent tires, and I'm temped to pick up a set of 335/30/18s as my next set of tires. It seemed as though as the tires got hotter, they hooked better. Instead of just completely hazing when they started spinning, they actually caught traction at 5300.
11-19-2015, 06:08 PM
#49
Awesome congrats. We got our d1's about the same time so I always enjoyed your posts. After exploding the LS6 i'm maxxing the D1 out with the forged 418, should be back together in another 2 weeks or so, will be interesting to compare graphs, looks like yours will make a lot more torque. Later Ill make the upgrade to the F series, not sure if f1a or f1r, have to measure for some clearance options but these results are leaning me toward an f1a as plenty.
Long lives the 10 bolt lol, just hope it fails gracefully when it goes
Long lives the 10 bolt lol, just hope it fails gracefully when it goes
11-21-2015, 06:13 AM
#59
Exactly. I hadn't had a chance to get the tune above 4500rpm done prior to the dyno, because, well, it's tough to do on the street. So when we made the first pulls, it was lean as can be up top, so we made a bunch of partial pulls and I kept adding fuel 5, 10, 15% at a time. Well as you can see from the chart I posted, the boost leveled off at 16psi from about 5800 to 6800 which is probably from the blower inlet tube and air filter not being able to keep up. That's why it is so rich. I have a feeling on the street, it won't be as rich that high because it'll have plenty of air pushing at the filter. Still, I did pull some fuel out of those upper cells.
It does answer the question of how much power can you make on the stock line and in tank regulator... about 860-900rwhp.
It's on the future mod list.
It's in the works.
It does answer the question of how much power can you make on the stock line and in tank regulator... about 860-900rwhp.
It's in the works.